• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.589-594
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• 1997

A total of 24 surface sediment samples collected from coastal region and fronting of sea cliff on Cape Cod In southeastern Massachusetts, were analyzed to Investigate the sediment transport mechanism. According to the result of grainsize analysis, the overall trend of g.k size decreases from the north(Wood End Beach) to the south(Nauset Light Beachy. The coarser materials tend to be deposited at the foreshore than at the backshore. Especially gavel content(%) Is very high in northern beaches. The lavel fraction tended to concentrate at the toe of the beach. In addition to gravel. the beach and nearshore bar also tended to be deposite of very coarse sand and the Inner fraction accumulate in the offshore bar, Grainsize analyses of sediment Indicates that the coarsest sands Including gravel accumulate In the beach and nearshore bar, the finer fraction winnowed out by wave action to be deposited In the offshore bar. The beach and nearshore bar sands and gavel are subsequently transported laterally by the wave-driven longshore drift, and finally they come to rest in the distal end of Provincetown Hook. The faller offshore sands are trnasported laterally to the south by net southward-directed longshore current.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.75-82
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• 2004

The changes of sea bottom configuration, which may cause the coastal disasters, have been considered as social problems. It is obvious that the beach deformation is attributable to the sediment transport associated with erosion and acceration. The prediction method and countermeasures for them, however, are not on the level of satisfaction, which indicates that efforts should be made on developing them. In this study, it is found at the groin constructed in Sangju beach on e purpose of beach protection did the aversive function. The reason for this was judged that they accelerated the speed of erosion by increasing the velocity wave-induced current rather than brought storage effect of sediment. Authors found that the storage sediment estimation model by Sonu and Beek(1971) is a useful model at the Sangju beach with the use of topographical survey data from July, 1987 to March, 2003.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.19-26
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• 2000

A numerical model is applied for predicting two-dimensional beach and dune erosion during severe storms. The model uses equation of sediment continuity and dynamic equation, governing the on-offshore sediment transport due to a disequilibrium of wave energy dissipation. And the model also uses sediment transport rate parameter K from dimensional analysis instead of that recommended by Kriebel. During a storm, a beach profile evolves to a form where the depth at the surf zone is related to the distance seaward of the waterline. In general, the erosion in the beach profile is found to be sensitive to equilibrium profile parameter, sediment transport rate parameter, storm surge level and breaking wave height.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.594-604
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• 2021

To evaluate the causes of beach erosion in Sinji-Myeongsasimni Beach, external forces, such as tides, tidal currents, and waves, were observed seasonally from March 2019 to March 2020, and the surface sediments were analyzed for this period. In addition, the shoreline positions and beach elevations were regularly surveyed with a VRS GPS and fixed-wing drone. From these field data, the speed of the tidal currents was noted to be insufficient, but the waves were observed to af ect the deformation of the beach. As the beach is open to the southern direction, waves of heights over 1 m were received in the S-SE direction during the spring, summer, and fall seasons. Large waves with heights over 2 m were observed during typhoons in summer and fall. Because of the absence of typhoons for the previous two years from July 2018, the beach area over datum level (DL) as of July 2018 was greater by 30,138m² compared with that of March 2019, and the beach area as of March 2020 decreased by 61,210m² compared with that of March 2019 because of four typhoon attacks after July 2018. The beach volume as of March 2019 decreased by 5.4% compared with that of July 2018 owing to two typhoons, and the beach volume as of September 2019 decreased by 7.3% because of two typhoons during the observation year. However, the volume recovered slightly by about 3% during fall and winter, when there were no high waves. According to the sediment transport vectors by GSTA, the sediments were weakly influxed from small streams located at the center of the beach; the movement vectors were not noticeable at the west beach site, but the westward sediment transport under the water and seaward vectors from the foreshore beach were prominently observed at the east beach site. These patterns of westward sediment vectors could be explained by the angle between the annual mean incident wave direction and beach opening direction. This angle was inclined 24° counterclockwise with the west-east direction. Therefore, the westward wave-induced currents developed strongly during the large-wave seasons. Hence, the sand content is high in the west-side beach but the east-side beach has been eroded seriously, where the pebbles are exposed and sand dune has decreased because of the lack of sand sources except for the soiled dunes. Therefore, it is proposed that efforts for creating new sediment sources, such as beach nourishment and reducing wave heights via submerged breakwaters, be undertaken for the eastside of the beach.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.84-95
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• 1994

In recent years Jin-Beach and Hyeya River mouth have experienced severe erosion phenomena. The cause of erosion is examined using a 3-dimensional nunumerical sediment transport model. The model is composed of three components : wave model, wave-induced current model and 3-dimensional sediment transport model. In the wave analysis component we consider refraction, diffraction and reflection based on Maruyama and Kajima method. For the wave-induced current model we use depth-integrated continuty equation and momentum equations. For the 3-dimensional sediment transport model we consider bed load and suspended load simutaneously. Model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach and Hyeya River mouth agreed well with experimental results.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.265-275
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• 2011

The Hamo and Hyeopjae beaches in the western part of Jeju Island were studied in terms of seasonal variations of surface sediment and beach profile. Seasonal drift direction of the beach sands also was investigated. The Hamo beach of $7.3^{\circ}-10.8^{\circ}$ steep is composed of medium sand containing volcanic clasts and shell fragments. The Hyeopjae beach of $2.8^{\circ}-6.5^{\circ}$ steep is composed of coarse shelly sand. Hamo beach deformation is probably caused by the jetties constructed in the western part of the beach. In the Hyeopjae beach, surface sands were drifted into the dune side by the northwestern stormy wind during winter season.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.595-605
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• 1994

The field observations. data analyses and numerical experiments are performed to investigate the short and long term beach deformation mechanisms in Haeundae beach. The schematic diagrams of deposition and erosion mechanism due to the attack of typhoons are described from the analysis on the beach widths and profiles. The short term beach deformation depends strongly on the characteristics of incident waves and wave-induced currents. The main incident wave and the calibration parameters of the shoreline change model are determined using the beach width data. Beacause the main incident wave approaches obliquly from the SE direction, the net westward longshore sediment transport occurs. Therefore the unbalance of longshore sediment budget in the east of the beach where the sediment source dose not exist causes a beach erosion. On the other hand, the deposited sand in the west is lost offshore by the storm wave action.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.209-220
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• 2019

Even though the scale of hard structures for beach stabilization should carefully be determined such that these structures do not interrupt the great yearly circulation process of beach sediment in which the self-healing ability of natural beach takes places, massive hard structures such as the submerged breakwater of wide-width are frequently deployed as the beach stabilization measures. On this rationale, asymmetric ripple mat by Irie et al. (1994) can be the alternatives for beach stabilization due to its small scale to replace the preferred submerged breaker of wide-width. The effectiveness of asymmetric ripple mat is determined by how effectively the vortices enforced at the contraction part of flow area over the mat traps the sediment moving toward the offshore by the run-down. In order to verify this hypothesis, we carry out the numerical simulations based on the Navier-Stokes equation and the physically-based morphology model. Numerical results show that the asymmetric ripple mat effectively capture the sediment by forced vortex enforced at the apex of asymmetric ripple mat, and bring these trapped sediments back to the beach, which has been regarded to be the driving mechanism of beach stabilization effect of asymmetric ripple mat.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.436-441
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• 2020

Wave field changes resulting from artificial coastal structures constructed in coastal zones have emerged as a major cause of beach erosion, among other factors. The rates of erosion along the eastern coast of Korea have varied mainly owing to the construction of various ports and coastal structures; however, impact assessments of these structures on beach erosion have not been appropriately conducted. Thus, in this study, a methodology to assess the impact of erosion owing to the construction of artificial structures has been proposed, for which a parabolic bay shape equation is used in determining the shoreline angle deformation caused by the structures. Assuming that the conditions of sediment or waves have similar values in most coastal areas, a primary variable impacting coastal sediment transport is the deformation of an equilibrium shoreline relative to the existing beach. Therefore, the angle rotation deforming the equilibrium of a shoreline can be the criterion for evaluating beach erosion incurred through the construction of artificial structures. The evaluation criteria are classified into three levels: safety, caution, and danger. If the angle rotation of the equilibrium shoreline is 0.1° or less, the beach distance was considered to be safe in the present study; however, if this angle is 0.35° or higher, the beach distance is considered to be in a state of danger. Furthermore, in this study, the distance affected by beach erosion is calculated in areas of the eastern coast where artificial structures, mainly including ports and power plants, were constructed; thereafter, an impact assessment of the beach erosion around these areas was conducted. Using a proposed methodology, Gungchon Port was evaluated with caution, whereas Donghae Port, Sokcho Port, and Samcheok LNG were evaluated as being in a state of danger.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.122-133
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• 2005

The change of surface sediment composition, shoreline and transection of geography were studied to investigate the Typhoon(Maemi) effect in Naa Beach located in the south area of East sea. In the backshore the volume of gravel is do creased, and increased in the volume of sand. The erosion in the sediment occurred to 4 m in the thickness and effected to 10 m in depth. And the coastline retreated to 12 m after typhoon. During typhoon conditions, higher amplitude waves deepen the wave base, causing much of the lower beach face and the offshore. The upper beach face is extensively eroded during typhoon and sand sediment is redeposited.