• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.4
• /
• pp.37-51
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to devise a wide range of expression and direction in fashion by analyzing the wardrobe of David Bowie, a musician who represents Glam Rock, for "glam" characteristics. Research was done using dictionaries of musical terms, dictionaries of attire terms, internet, papers and books published in Korea and abroad and other materials. The results of this study showed four characteristics, and it can be summarized as follows. First, resistance refers to the deviation from the norms set by a mainstream society. The resistance in Glam Rock was expressed in depreciative and anti-social characteristics, and Punk elements were expressed by using studs and metallic materials. Second, androgyny in David Bowie's costume expresses the innate nature of gender by freely integrating or tight silhouette costumes. Third, the fantasy in Bowie's costumes is a concept as opposed to what is real and is expressed by using avant-garde and playful expressions. Distorted, exaggerated and avant- garde expressions express decorative and bizarre fantasy by using the images of an astronaut. Fourth, the folklore in David Bowie's costumes uses the patterns and images of different cultures, and is expressed as through integration of exotic components, including the usage of costumes with Oriental colors and shapes. Furthermore it represents geometric shapes and curves, using the images of Kimono.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.10
• /
• pp.32-41
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to prove an importance of systemic analysis paradigm to interpret fashion make-up. This research employed 'paradigm for interpretation of fashion make-up signs' theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) recognition of form, (2) analysis of connotation meanings, and (3) analysis of symbolic meanings and communication. The results of this study were as follows. Jean Paul Gaultier's eye make-up uses a square pattern that mostly consists of the color black. He presents a Glam Rock image by using rimmed make-up that portrays an avant-garde and a nonmainstream culture. Jean Paul Gaultier's make-up was showing black color and square eye pattern and was presenting Glam Rock image and was a rimmed make-up meaning a nonmainstream culture and Avant-garde symbolically. Chanel's make-up emphasizes the eyehole with the rimmed technique by applying the make-up of Marchesa Casati and including non-popularity, Limited Marketing symbolically. Christian Dior's make-up applies the representative make-up of Joan of Arc and Siouxsie sioux and also uses rimmed make-up to portray the meaning of religion persecution, the dark-ages militarism and including Humanism symbolically.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.15 no.6
• /
• pp.862-873
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.4
• /
• pp.14-23
• /
• 2011

The present study aims to apply the theory of Brecht's 'Verfremdung' or distancing effect to the process of fashion design. The distancing effect refers to an avant-garde artistic technique that enables artists to create their works by viewing particular objects separately from the phenomena that occur around those objects. Brecht encouraged a sense of purpose that involved shifting to the new society sought by modernism. He also suggested an artistic approach that isolates perception from judgment 'Verfremdung' which reflects his approach well. In this paper, with the distancing effect considered as a method for creation, the author identifies the system of thought associated with the distancing method and applies this system to fashion design. To this end, the author first reviewed the concepts of 'Entfremdung' (alienation) and the distancing effect and studied the backgrounds of the two concepts. Next, the author identified Brecht's epic theory and its application. As a result, a method of perceiving objects as used with the distancing effect was noted, and this method was utilized to distinguish the relationship between the body and its clothes. Specifically of interest were parts of the human body and the related functions of clothes as well as the motor functions of the body and detailed decorations on clothes. Moreover, the author discovered a trend in the wearing of clothes that exists in the context of historical changeability by examining Brecht's work as it relates to the types of clothes that are worn. Finally, the author applied the distancing effect to fashion design in consideration of the discovered trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.626-639
• /
• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.27-37
• /
• 1999

The results of this study are as follows : 1. Though Korean college women have taken unfriendly attitudes and thoughts to Japan, they have enjoyed themselves over the various Japanese cultures. 2. They have thought that Japanese fashion becomes popular in Korea, Japanese clothes are superior to Korean clothes in quality, and they are suitable to express personality. 3. Japanese clothing elements which become popular now in Korea are the clothing style of ‘school girl-look’, ‘Avant-garde’, punk hair style, and the various shapes of shoes, accessories, and make-up.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.119-128
• /
• 2008

The surrealism art form comes from the world of unconsciousness. Based on its expression of the world of imaginary, it boldly demonstrates the arrangement and the forms of contradicted objects and the development of collage, montage, and protage techniques in the works which had a big influence on the growth of the modern art. The ideology and the modeling characteristics shown in the surrealism had various expressive forms and meanings in the modern compound expression and it grew out of the former standarlized forms and brought diversity and individuality based on the sensibility of the new avant-garde art form and showed great potential as it presented harmony in the multiple forms of art. The purpose of the research was to analyze the influences that were put on the surrealistic fashion art works and the works of the representative designer, Jean Paul Gotie. The characteristics of Jean Paul Gotie's surrealistic fashion comes from destruction, sexual image, and the mixture of heterogeneous. It is evident that the surrealistic fashion went beyond certain groups of avant-gardists' salvation of the world and were put to practice use, reaching out to the ordinary consumers. This was resulted from the revolutionary movement called, "anti-mode van fashion" led by Gotie. The surrealistic style will be led by various techniques and trends and developed through new characteristics in multiculture merged with various fashion styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.55 no.2 s.92
• /
• pp.18-32
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to find out the origin of perpetuity in the fashion design of Soma Delaunay, who was recognized as a unique designer in the 20th century. Her characteristics of fashion design appeared as dynamism in the incline of op-art using geometric pattern designed on the basis of abstract painting, color contrast between strong original colors, and repeated geometric patterns. The modern image can be explained as modernity in modern fashion and is continued in these days. The origins of modernity analyzed as follows. First, Soma Delaunay developed textile design, considering the use of clothing on the basis of scientific idea. Furthermore, she evolved traditional textile design and making process into a practical and rational way through developing new needlework technique. Second, she tried a new style through a straight silhouette in contrast to Art Nouveau style and the test and mixture of different genres. Third, she expressed the simultaneity of Orphism through the parallel structure of various colors. In particular, she used the contrast of strong and clear original colors to express a rhythm of dynamism and give visual interest through color. Finally, Soma Delaunay attempted to approach the public using clothing, furniture, and curtains with the focus on textiles. It may represent her intention to remove a gap between art and life by understanding the public and their life. As examined above, it can be sad that Soma Delaunay's scientific idea with the flow of industrialization, an open attitude not bound by a rule as an artist, an idea of Avant-garde, the comprehension of various colors and the understanding of the public. These factors lie at the bottom of her fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.3
• /
• pp.117-130
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the 'sexy look' of the Paris Haute Couture evening dresses of the past 10 years from 2005 to 2014. The results are as follows: According to the occurrence frequency analysis of the fashion images of sexy look evening dress, the type of sexy look that appeared the most is the romantic sexy look, followed by erotic sexy look, ethnic sexy look, minimal sexy look and avant-garde sexy, respectively. According to the design component-specific analysis of evening dress for each Haute Couture house, 7 Haute Couture houses have used H-line silhouette over the past 10 years, each H-line silhouette being different. In terms of material, Valentino, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Chanel and Dior have shown a trend of favoring see-through material, Gaultier and Armani showed a lot to combine different materials. In terms of color, Valentino, Chanel, Dior, Gaultier, Armani have shown a general trend in the last 10 years to express sexy look by using attractive and mystical black tones, Elie Saab has shown skin color a lot by using brown family colors and Givenchy has used white family colors. According to the design components analysis for each sexy look fashion image, the H-line silhouette showed the most frequency to represent sexy looks. In terms of material, avant-garde sexy look, ethnic sexy look and minimal sexy look showed a lot to combine different materials to express sexy looks, but erotic sexy look and romantic sexy look are characterized by using thin see-through material. As for the color, black series has been most represented in the last 10 years for the Haute Couture evening dress sexy look.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.5
• /
• pp.50-61
• /
• 2014

Fashion has been compared to art since Japanese avant-garde fashion designers expanded the thoughts about conceptual fashion in late 1970s. The fashion designers focused on the materiality of fashion textiles by placing more importance on it than the shapes. This bears a striking resemblance to contemporary art of 1960s and 1970s as many artists used soft materials like felt, fabric, rubber to emphasize themselves. This study establishes the materiality of fabric, which can be found in both contemporary art and fashion. The classification of materiality consists of flexibility, humanizing and temporality. In this work, there is a significant disparity between contemporary art and fashion.