• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.146-165
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• 2016

The aim of the study is to propose ways to improve the break line fit of women's tailored collar vests by modifying the patternmaking process. The study explored the fit effects of experimental vests with a focus on 3 different breast sizes, A, B, and C cups. Women in the ages between 20 and 24 in South Korea were targeted. In order to carry out the objective, the study implemented separate girth measurements for the front and the back of the tailored collar vests, and also allocated different dart amounts on the lapel through the break line according to the different breast cup sizes. The study adopted a 5-point rating scale to perform evaluation of the different fit effects caused by the varying dart amounts given on the experimental vests' break lines. This evaluation was carried out by apparel pattern experts. The results derived from the study were as follows: first, the implementation of separate girth measurements provided originality to the study, as the application of different measurements for the waist back length and the neck shoulder point-to-breast point-to-waist line led to the front panels of the experimental vests having varying slack amounts. Second, break line dart was applied in three different amounts, 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5cm respectively according to A, B and C breast sizes, and as the dart amount increased, extra ease on the break lines was reduced. The dart was applied on the edge lines of the lapel and it was applied from a point which was 6cm above the breast point to the end of the princess line for all the breast cup sizes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.284-293
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• 2015

This study intends to analyze the fit of directly-imported American casual pants for Korean female college students in terms of appearance and comfortableness. The authors carried out a wearing test with sample pants from 3 brands (DKNY: A, Gap: B, Polo: C) that had the most market share and that were mostly preferred by Korean female college students. Results showed that pants A had insufficient ease in the crotch, as the depth of the crotch was short. The hip girth received a low assessment in terms of appearance. Moreover, the hem widths were wide while the pants length was long. Pants B were expected to be most appropriate for Korean women's bodies, as they had the longest crotch depth among the three brands. However, the pants appeared to pull downward due to the narrow thigh and the knee girth and hem width. Moreover, the crotch girth and hip girth received a poor appearance assessment. Pants C were rated as satisfactory for their thigh girth, knee girth, and hem width. However, the crotch was uncomfortable, as it had a short crotch depth. The hip girth received a low appearance assessment. This study suggests that a pattern adjustment is required for directly-imported American pants to provide a better fit for the bodies of Korean women. The crotch depths should be approximately 17.5 cm. The hem widths should be approximately 20 cm. We also suggest a leg length of 75 cm, a waist girth of 86 cm, and a hip girth of 97 cm.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.708-725
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• 2013

In the 2010s, skinny jeans were trendy, and they became a must-have for young women. The styles, clothing pressure and buying behavior of skinny jeans have been studied, but the patternmaking of skinny jeans has not been researched yet. To analyze skinny jeans patterns, we grouped skinny jeans into nine brands. They were sorted into three groups: special jeans brand, trendy jeans brand, and SPA brand. This study compared skinny jeans' sizing systems, product dimensions and pattern measurements in three brand groups. The appearance and fit of skinny jeans were evaluated by random groups of people in their 20s and 30s. The sizing systems for skinny jeans were different with KS K0051, and they were shown waist girth in inches. The waist and hip circumferences were different among brand groups. In product dimensions, trendy jeans brands had a shorter crotch length, a lower crotch depth, a narrower back crotch width, and a longer inseam than the others. The measurements of skinny jeans flat patterns were significantly different in as below; front crotch depth, front crotch height, front crotch length, back crotch extension, gap between back and front crotch depth, back crotch height, back crotch length, and center back angle. In the sensory survey results, trendy jeans brands were evaluated well in the fit of the waist line, hip line, crotch line, midthigh line, outseam, inseam, side waist line, crotch length and overall fit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.657-670
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• 2018

This study investigated the wearing of jackets by down-aging middle-aged women in their 40s to 50s who enjoy wearing attire from ladies' apparel brands that target the 20s to 30s age group. As a method of research, a survey was done on middle-aged women in their 40s and 50s as the target age group. Based on the survey results, comparison and analysis was done on the wearing of jackets as well as preferred extra space and fitness of the clothes, with the distinction between the down-aging group and the non down-aging group. The down-aging middle-aged women purchased jackets mainly at department stores, outlets, discount outlets, and internet shopping malls, and showed the highest frequency of wearing the jackets once or twice a week. For the item "importance in selecting a jacket", both groups chose "the design" as the most important aspect; however, the non down-aging group took "size and fitness" and "activity and comfort" more than the down-aging group. Especially regarding the size of the jackets, size S (55) was the most often worn by the down-aging group, whereas size M (66) was the most often worn by the non down-aging group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.91-102
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to suggest a individually fitted slacks pattern in order to help ourselves prepared for the days of the order-based production like the EC in the apparel industry. A pattern was designed to make the personal fit improved based on the present study and the analysis of the measurements and the body shapes. The main characteristics of this newly designed slacks pattern are as follows. To improve fitting, the pattern requires more detailed data such as front and back waist arc, front and back hip arc, hip depth, the gradient of hip. And for personal fitted pattern, knee girth was established in the proportion to the hip girth and the crotch curve was adjusted to the measurements after drawing and the side seam curve was changed according to the front hip type and the ease in waist and hip was established by the percentage. Slacks pattern was developed into an automatic drafting program. Through the sensory evaluation for the appearance and moving fitness, newly designed slacks pattern was turned out to be improved in personal fit espacially for the body type out of the average.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.357-363
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to provide buying condition of women focusing on age groups and satisfaction with ready-to-wear and basic data in designing ready-to-wear for women. The questionnaire method was used and one-to-one interviews were held for residents in Iksan, Jonju areas. Total 252 subjects were surveyed and used for statistical analysis and were analyzed by Frequency, ANOVA, CROSSTABS, $x^2-test$. Women for this study were classified 3 groups(young women, middle aged women, obesity women). The results of this study were as follows; 1) Both BMI and Rohrer index are significantly different according to 3 groups. 2) In the buying method, more than 97% of the middle aged women and obesity women had purchased ready-to-wear apparel. 3) While young women purchased their clothing in the Bose store, middle aged women and obesity women purchased their clothing in the department store. 4) In young women and middle aged women group, the most important criteria of buying were design. In obesity women, the most important criteria of buying were design, size (fitness), price. 5) For the satisfaction of ready-to-wear with aging, 34.1% of all respondents showed dissatisfaction. There was significant difference according to the age. 6) In the fit of ready-to wear, When ready-to-wear is not fit, more than 40% was purchased big or small.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.67-80
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• 2002

An efficient torso pattern has been developed to cope with the future trend of order-based, individualized production like the E.C.(Electronic Commerce) in the apparel industry, and to make a database foundation of automatic garment pattern drafting. For this purpose, a non-contact three-dimensional anthropometric measurement system was used to provide a lot of accurate body data for better individual fit, and an automatic pattern drafting system that can easily generate various size patterns and construct a pattern database has been developed too. The subjects of this research were 18 to 24 year-old women whose data had been gathered through the Korean national investigation of anthropometry for industrial standards in 1997 and various body shapes were analyzed by the measurements. And a special software system has been developed to verify the validity of newly proposed drawing rules. The results of sensory evaluation for appearance and moving fitness of the new torso pattern showed a significant improvement in individual fit even for the figures with large deviation from standard shape compared with the results of the traditional one.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1359-1371
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• 2011

The purpose of this paper is to compare two avatars made using direct and manual methods and to evaluate the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars. In this study, two subjects were measured by $[TC]^2$ body scanner and the avatars and virtual garments were created by OptiTex software. The direct avatar was made by the direct importation of 3D body scan data and the manual avatar was made by manual input from extracted body measurement. Two virtual garments in a tank-top were evaluated by distance, transparency, and stretch maps. In the results of comparing difference of the direct and manual avatars, the bust and back of the manual avatar are protruded slightly more than that of the direct avatar and the manual avatar is slightly larger dimensions at the bust, waist, abdomen, and hip area in the side view in case of subject 1 and 2. In the results of comparing difference of the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars, in case of subject 1 and 2, the back of the virtual garment on the manual avatar are protruded more than that of the direct avatar. Also, the ease in the bust area of the virtual garment on the manual avatar with a projected bust area was smaller than that of the virtual garment on the direct avatar and the stretch of that of the manual avatar was also high in the bust area. The results of this study are expected to be used as basic information in the apparel industry using virtual try-on technology.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.596-605
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• 2013

This study investigates the wearing trend and purchase facts for adult females in their 20s and 30s along with their fitting satisfaction for woven jackets and circular knitted jackets. A questionnaire survey on consumers investigated satisfaction with jackets according to clothing materials and repair trend after wearing. Subsequently, a preference for circular knitted jackets was shown higher than woven jackets. Females in their 20s preferred woven jackets than those in their 30s; however, the latter preferred circular knitted jackets than the former. For woven jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with size; however, for circular knitted jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with fitting. In the question on their satisfaction by jacket part, satisfaction with circular knitted jackets was higher in all items except for bust measurement, bottom edge measurement, elbow circumference, shoulder width, and clothes length. Circular knitted jackets had lower repair rates than woven jackets and woven jackets had significant differences by age in satisfaction with back width. The research results indicate that females in their 20s and 30s who value fit preference and practicality will increasingly wear knit clothes. Therefore, we can address the fitting satisfaction requirement of females in their 20s and 30s by taking the clothing material properties of circular knitted clothes into consideration. In addition, further research is required on jacket patterns in consideration of clothing materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.276-287
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• 2009

Apparel professionals need to understand the customer to effectively develop, select, and promote apparel products. Analysis of consumer preferences can help in the creative design process. Therefore the purpose of this study was to identify consumer preference by gender in two segmented group; $20{\sim}34$ aged group and $35{\sim}49$ aged group toward men's apparel consumers, considering target customers and female influences on men's wear purchasing. We used questionnaires that were distributed to 600 males and females aged in their 20s to 40s, using stratified sampling method. Only 547 reliable questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Chi-Square and t-test were used to analyze the data, using SPSS program. We obtained the following results: 1. We found that there was a significant association between segmented age group and the preference of men's jacket style. Specially $20{\sim}34$ aged group had a significant association with styles of formal jacket, casual t-shirts, casual pants, but $35{\sim}49$ aged group had formal pants style. Looking at the general percentage, semi-formal jacket, slim fit t shirt, straight casual pants were the most favored styles. 2. Age has an significant effect on the preferences of formal menswear fabric patterns and shirt patterns. The results of t-test showed that there found to be significant by gender in character and check pattern of shirts. 3. In design details, the number of button had not significance by gender, and 2 buttons was th most favored by both age groups. The number of gather at the waist had an significant association in $34{\sim}49$ age group. $20{\sim}34$ age group prefer high waist of pants, while $35{\sim}49$ age group prefer low waist of pants. 4. For on time outfit, formal wear and tie ensemble was the most favored with significant difference by age and gender. Formal wear and no tie ensemble favored by about one third of respondents, and more favored by the younger group. For off time outfit, casual jacket and casual pants ensemble was the most favored.