• Title/Summary/Keyword: Women's costumes

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A study on Men's Trunks Designs Characterized by Chinese Letters (한자(漢字)를 응용한 남성 트렁크 디자인 연구)

  • Kim, Hye-Ree;Choi, Won-Kyung;Lee, Young-Sook
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.12 no.5
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    • pp.574-581
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    • 2010
  • Trunks like men's underpants are similar to boxer shorts and are made in both modern and traditional styles. Like boxer shorts, trunks cover the mid-section of the body (hence the name "trunk"). As the income level of the nation increases, men as well as women become interested in fashion expressing the individual's character, by not regarding fashion as simply wearing essential items to live in. Men's interest in fashion influences men's underwear designs which has been thought previously just as to be worn for living in. Nowadays, trunks are often worn as lounge wear in the household, therefore the need for sensual and characteristic trunks designs is required in the fashion market to meet the customer's new needs. In modern fashion designs, Chinese letters have been artistically presented and used in decorative fashion design regardless of its original meaning, generally embroidered in traditional costumes. Based on the fact that Chinese letters containing lucky meanings have traditionally been used, other Chinese letters meaning positive and prospective future can be adapted and weaved into men's trunks designs. Therefore, in this study, among many good meaning Chinese letters; four Chinese letters, 高(high), 金(gold), 義(justice), 愛(love), have been selected and applied in the trunks designs. The purpose of this study is to develop men's trunk designs using these Chinese letters which can be massively produced and sold in Asian countries which commonly understand the meaning of the Chinese letters as well as in South Korea.

A Study on the Design of Official Costume of 16th Century Gineyo in Scholar's Banquet;Focusing on the Image Design for Cultural Contents (16세기 조선 기녀의 일반 연회(宴會) 규정복식 고증 디자인 연구;문화콘텐츠용 이미지 작업을 중심으로)

  • Choi, Hae-Yool
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.8
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    • pp.1322-1331
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.

Analysis on Gender Characteristics Expressed in Male and Female Costume During the Ancient Greek Age (그리스 시대의 남성복과 여성복에 표현된 젠더(gender) 특성 분석)

  • Yi, Myoung-Hee;Choi, Yoonmi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.4
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    • pp.84-100
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    • 2013
  • Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.

A Comparative Study on Women's Cosmetic Culture of Korea and the West in the 20th (20세기 한국과 서양의 여성 화장문화 비교연구)

  • 김희숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50
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    • pp.85-96
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    • 2000
  • The study is aimed to analyse social and cultural background and to compare the changes of the cosmetic culture in Korea and the western countries accompanied by the developemnt os the cosmetic industry in the 20th century. The cosmetic culture of Korea has kept on changing adopting the new western style make up, These changes were very closely related with the current sociocultural environments and the developments of the cosmetic industry. The analysis and comparison of Korean cosmetic culture and that of Western countries can be summarized as following: Fistly the cosmetic culture of korea came out after Korean War through the improt of western movies. Secondly at the beginning of accommodation of the western concept of beauty the standards of beauty were confused with that of traditional make up. Thirdly in terms of the history of costumes in the western cosmetic culture the trend was feminine and curve lineal style in the 1910s straight and young style in the 1920s Young elegant curve lineal style and straight-line style replaced among themselves in every 10 years and the cycle became more rapid after the 1970s and there were diversity in the cosmetic culture affected by the postmodernism Fourthly the cosmetic culture of :total fashion" was taken into consideration. Fifthly the cosmetic culture of "total fashion" was taken into consideration. fifthly the make up of Korean and that of western countries are not only a way to express of aesthetic desire for beauty but sanitary management and it is a kind of an expansion of value for management for an inner self. Now is the time to refuse the attitude of accommodation of the western cosmetic culture without any consideration. We need to rediscover our traditional cosmetic culture and cultural distinctiveness and try to mix them with the western cosmetic culture in order to develop our own peculiar style which will be able to Korean design remain in the international stage and grow further.d grow further.

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The characteristics of veganism in Stella McCartney's fashion (스텔라 맥카트니 패션에 나타난 비거니즘 특성)

  • Haeim, Lee;Younhee, Lee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.30 no.6
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    • pp.779-798
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    • 2022
  • The purpose of this study was to propose the direction of veganism-based fashion design in environmental and animal protection through the theoretical consideration of vegan fashion and the analysis of the practical design characteristics of veganism in Stella McCartney's fashion. The research was conducted through literature research and case studies. After investigating the concept and characteristics of vegan fashion, focusing on previous studies and various fashion-related Internet data, Stella McCartney's fashion was examined with particular attention on vegan characteristics. The results of the study are as follows: First, imitative nature pursues animal and environmental protection, but the motif or appearance is a characteristic of pursuing a multi-purpose design that imitates animals and nature. Second, expression of value is based on slow fashion, simplicity, and sustainable minimal design. It is expressed indirectly by pursuing permanence, simplicity, and long-wearable design, or directly expressing vegan values through phrases expressed in performances or costumes in the collection. Third, alternative eco-friendliness is characterized by using cruelties-free materials such as faux fur, recycling materials, new bio-materials, and regenerated materials. These vegan characteristics are comprehensively and organically expressed in the works of the collection, and through this, sustainable and eco-friendly vegan fashion is pursued. It is anticipated that by deriving the vegan fashion characteristics of Stella McCartney, who represents vegan fashion, it will be possible to provide the basis for practical direction and design methods for fashion brands aiming for vegan fashion styles.

Decoration Culture resident in Contemporary Japanese Fashion (현대 일본패션에 내재한 꾸밈 미학)

  • 채금석
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.3
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    • pp.113-127
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to search the spiritual root of decoration and anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings of the decoration culture inside contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japan. decoration culture 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the decoration culture 3. finding esthetically the inside meaning of 1.2. in contemporary Japanese fashion. First, the origin of decoration culture was concerned with the belief in the life after death of the Buddhism culture to represent the noble society of the Heian(평안) period and the religion of paradise after the Middle Ages. Second. this decoration culture based on two aesthetic ideologies, beautiful(염) aesthetics and lofty(숭고) aesthetics. The beautiful aesthetics implies words, such as bewitchment, elegance, dignity and brilliance which stand for the sensual pleasure and the eroticism. The lofty aesthetics that was introduced by TakeTakasi(장고) during the Heian period, had the meaning of magnificence, greatness and dignity. This could be recognized as the Confucianism ideas. Third, as the beautiful aesthetics that was the representative aesthetic ideology of the decoration culture, it was related to splendid and decorative designs, and was recognized as the beauty of brilliance and coquetry. The beauty of brilliance, as a decorative element, appeared in patterns of the traditional costume and dyeing as well as the beauty of coquetry indicated that the women's fashion in Japan had soft, feminine, and cute images, called Hawaii, by using various decorations, such as feminine details, flower patterns. ruffles. ribbons and so on. TakeTakasi's lofty aesthetics applied the beauty of exaggeration to every art form. It has influenced the form exaggeration by overlapping in traditional costumes as well as the 1970s big look and layered look in Europe fashion. Issey Miyake and Takeda Kenzo introduced the decorative play, such as transformation and a distortion, which considered refinement, bluff, and oddity of the Japanese decoration art.

A Study of Dap-ho(塔胡) in Joseon Dynasty - Until the Early $17^{th}$ Century - (조선시대 답호(塔胡) 연구 - 17세기 전기까지 -)

  • Song, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.10
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    • pp.51-67
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    • 2009
  • The study is about 'Dap-ho', a kind of men's coat in the early, and mid period of Joseon Dynasty. The study examined the kinds, color, and fabric of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty". It also examined the characteristic, and the change of shape through excavated costume, and the period is limited until early 17th century. In "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", there is record of Dap-ho from King Sejong period to Gwang-hae-gun period. After 160 years, it appears again in King Young-jo period, and remains until King Soon-jong period. It was mentioned 168 times, from over 100 cases. There are 26 colors of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and among them, green appears the most. Thin fabric, like Joo [紬], Sa[紗], and Cho[綃] was used often, and there are records of double layered, and cotton padded Dap-ho. The period when Dap-ho appears as excavated costume is almost the same as, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty" and disappears after the decease of Dae-ho Kang(1541-1624), and Sun-un Yun(1580~1628). After in this period, Dan-ryung, and Jik-ryung changes into double layered clothes, and Jik-ryung functioned as the underclothes of Dan-ryung, instead of Dap-ho. The excavated costumes of Hwak Kim(1572~1633), and Eung-hae Lee(1547~1626) proofs this. But Dap-ho was called 'Jun-bok', 'Dugree', Que-ja', and 'Dap-ho' until the later period of Joseon Dynasty.

The value and utilization of Pyojihwajomoonkeum (silk fabric with lingering flowers and bird patterns) - Focusing on Baekje cultural area storyteller clothing - (표지화조문금(縹地花鳥紋錦)의 가치와 활용 - 백제문화권 스토리텔러복을 중심으로 -)

  • Ra, Sun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.23 no.2
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    • pp.147-153
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    • 2021
  • Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

The Effect of Make-up Education on Elderly Women's Life Satisfaction (화장교육이 노인여성의 생활만족도에 미치는 영향)

  • Kim, Jung-Si;Min, Kyung-Jin
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.1749-1755
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    • 2011
  • This study aimed to identify the effect of make-up education on the life satisfaction of elderly women based on a make-up education session for eight weeks from May 28 to July 16, 2010 provided to elderly women aged 60 or above who visited P Seniors' Welfare Center in D city. 80 samples were divided into the experimental group of 40 people and the control group of 40 people based on age and interest in make-up. Their life satisfaction level was identified before the survey. The experimental group received an eight-week make-up education session. In order to verify effects of the make-up education, follow-up tests were conducted toward the experimental and control groups both to compare life satisfaction levels. The make-up education was divided into elegant and natural make-up, make-up to look ten years younger, face-changing make-up, seasonal (spring, summer, autumn, and winter) make-up, make-up for Korean traditional costumes, and party make-up. In each class, students practiced make-up on their face while taking a lecture on theories. After the education, the students found the education satisfactory overall. Based on the results, the life satisfaction of the experimental group who received the make-up education significantly increased (p<0.05), confirming that make-up education affects the life at old age.

Analysis of Mass Fashion on the basis of Movie Costume (영화의상을 중심으로 한 대중패션의 분석)

  • 유태순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.31
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    • pp.189-202
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    • 1997
  • Movie is one of the most popular culture ac-tivities in modern society and the composite rt of science and art born in the 20th century. Movie became the great source of setting the fashion. Especially movie costume brought into relief and was accepted by the mass. As a movie stimulates imitation psychology and identification of the general public in fashion. The purpose of this study is to analyze the effects of the movie costume to a modern mass fashion. The times was defined the movies from the early Silent era to the modern Hollywood movie from the late of 1910 to 1990. The way of study were to analyze on the changes and roles of movie costume through documentary records and the influence of set-ting the fashion to the mass fashion and classi-fied it five times-silent era classics neo-classics new look and modern times. The summary of result is as follows, 1, Movie costume affected the dress and the fashion of women is Silent era. That fashion was accelerated by actors' costumes in the mode of 1920. 2. Holloywood movies in the Classics show the essence of the fashion movie costume played a role of a fashion leader and commanded the trend of mass fashion. 3. Practical style was shown because of the war in the Neo-classics. Movie industry was prosperous after the war. But the consequences of the movie costume to the mass fashion were more and more weaken 4. Couture designer's costume had an effect on the mass fashion in the early of New look. But it was behind the fashion for the rise of young fashion. 5. The tastes of the fashion were diversified in Modern times. So the movie fashion was not imitated or popular. The costume of "Pret-a-porter" was used in the movies in the 1980. Spectators became to wear the same style of the actors. The times fashion and movie interacted each other. Movie costume is playing a role of a fashion leader guiding the mass fashion.s fashion.

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