• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.131-148
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• 2008

Each stylistic period through history has its own unique look. The characteristic look of each period is completed and visualized with its prevailing ideologies, aesthetic consciousness and morality by means of 'form'. A period expresses its characteristics in accordance with form according to the widespread preferences of the time. Among the various cultural factors that form the look of the time, those that the period holds as ideal aesthetic values create the concept of 'ideal beauty' for that period. This study begins by establishing the conceptual definition of 'ideal beauty' and develops the premise that dress reflected ideal beauty. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects are dresses represented in paintings, the actual garments from the Renaissance to Baroque periods and written references about art, art history, and history of costume. The results, based upon a theoretical study of the zeitgeist and aesthetic values of the 16th and 17th centuries, are as follows: first, ideal beauty influences the substance and form that constitute dress style. It is a byproduct of the spirit of time, the zeitgeist. The concept of ideal beauty is born within the lifestyle pursued by the ruling class and focuses on the body as an epitome of beauty, moral values, custom, lifestyle and taste as it becomes visualized via form. Second, the aspect of dress representing the ideal beauty of particular time varied according to the times. In both periods, power and dignity were used to achieve the ideal aesthetic values. In the Renaissance, power was expressed by the horizontal extension of dress (i.e. wide farthingales and sleeves) and in the Baroque period, by vertical extension (i.e. long and tall wigs, fontanges and trains). It can be said that fashion in both periods achieved an ideal, such as power and dignity, via the same means, by extending dress sizes, but the ways in which those ideals were portrayed in each period's dress yielded very contrary styles. It is understood through this study that ideal beauty influenced the dress style of the Renaissance and Baroque periods and played a decisive role in determining its forms and symbolic meanings.

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.135-150
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• 2004

The purpose of this research was intended to investigate drag queens' and drag kings' gender identity not only as a comic and desexualized drag borrowing external characteristics of the opposite sex but also as the subject visualizing and performing' the third sex'. It also aimed to examine formative aesthetic characteristics and aesthetical value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion and to confirm the functions of drag queen's and drag kins's fashion to establish, visualize and Perform the discordant sex. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Understanding drag, drag queen and drag king in social, psychological context as well as in gender context. 2. Finding visualized forms which drag performance interchange with mass media 3. Analyzing similarities and differences between drag queen's fashion and drag king's fashion. 4. Examining the aesthetical characteristics and the value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion. The results of characteristics of drag queen's fashion could be categorized into stereotype, mimicry, kitch, inconsistency and commercialism. And the characteristics of drag king's fashion could be divided into reality, self-consciousness, mimicry, inconsistency, subversion and multiplicity. Drag queens create plausible impressions of feminity through the use of wigs, dresses, jewelry, makeup, hormones and through &role Playing&. Similarly drag kings produce a plausible masculinity taking gay male aesthetic using suits, crotch stuffers, facial hair, and greased hair. Male and female impersonation produce very different notions of gender performance for male and female embodiment. Drag kings' performance of masculinity demands authentic property of bodies so rather nonperformative, while drag queens' performance of femininity depends on more visible and theatrical fashion.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.98-109
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• 2013

This study aims to discuss the image making of K-pop girl groups to provide an outlook on the necessary fashion components in order to express certain concepts by analyzing the fashion styles. The fashion styles of the representative girl groups from 2007 to 2011 were classified into five types: retro style, schoolgirl style, chic style, sporty style and marine style. The following are the features and elements of image making by style. The retro style pursued going back to the past. It used stripes, dots, leopard patterns, spangles and denim. It reproduced the style of the past to the trendy style using big sunglasses, retro makeup, girlish hair and gold wigs. The schoolgirl style created the sexy or cute image by using school uniforms as the motif including shirts, short pants and knee socks. It included having natural makeup and straight hair and differentiated colors, patterns and designs. The chic style was classified into rock chic look and sexy look. Both looks had common elements including smoky pop active makeup while the fashion concepts and hair styles were different. The sporty style took the concept of cheer girls. It used plaid shirts, baseball jackets, short pants, thigh high boots, vivid hair accessories, romantic makeup and straight, wave hair. The marine style took the naval uniform as the motif. It expressed the image using short pants, stripe patterns, wappens, naval caps and smoky sexy makeup, straight hair. K-pop girl group fashion is the driving force for the growth of Korean fashion industry as well as its cultural trends and hope that it have a growing influence on the global market and trend through continuing research and support.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.117-124
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• 2010

Recently, research on variables associated with hair styles are increasing with the spreading of total coordinated intention in the fields of clothing and cosmetology. In the present study, we focused on examining the skin temperature on the scalp(the vertex, temporal, and occiput), humidity on the occiput, skin temperatures (the forehead, back of ear, back of neck, upper back, abdomen, forearm, hand, thigh, calf, and foot), rectal temperature, total body mass loss by hair styles in a thermal neutral environment. Four young females participated as subjects. For a certain period, each subject had the five different hair styles in a random order: (1)Straight short hair(SS), (2)Perm waved short hair(PS), (3) Straight long hair(SL), (4)Perm waved long hair(PL), (5)Ponytail style(PT). Subjects wore briefs, bra, shirts with long sleeves, long legged training pants, and socks. The environmental variables of a climatic chamber were kept constant at $21{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ of air temperature and 55${\pm}$5%RH of air humidity. The results indicated the following: The skin temperature and humidity on the scalp did not show any significant differences among five different hair styles, but straight long hair style(SL)was the highest on the vertex, temporal, and occiput. The temporal skin temperature($29.8\sim30.8^{\circ}C$) was the highest, while the vertex skin temperature($28.7\sim30.1^{\circ}C$) was the lowest. Humidity on the occiput was the highest in the perm waved long hair style(PL). The back of ear skin temperature was significantly lower in the ponytail style(PT) than in the other four hair styles(p<.001). In the straight long hair style(SL), the skin temperature on the back of the neck and on the upper back were significantly higher than those of the other four hair styles(p<.01). Mean skin temperature and rectal temperature had no significant differences among hair styles. Total body mass was the highest in the perm waved long hair style(PL)(p<.05). We acquired fundamental data to enable the improvement of the current hair clinic system, wigs, functional hats, and helmets.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.74-87
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• 2018

This thesis investigated majo and maja costumes of depicted in Francisco de Goya's paintings from the middle of 18th to the early 19th century, and presented the costumes defined as the upward flow from the lower classes to the upper classes. The study methodology selected those describing the maja and majo among the figure paintings, portraits and genre paintings by Goya that identify unique characteristics with the qualitative analysis of the cases of the upward flow with that affect the costume of the upper classes. The influence of the majo and maja costumes were outstanding in the shape of the outfits while the French style gown of the upper class women were one-piece dresses in shape, those of the maja were two-piece dresses that consisted of the upper and gather skirts. The costume was perfected by use of the mantilla or head kerchief, instead of the headdresses prevalent at those times. The majo's costume affected the men's costume of the upper classes in the shape of the outfits. Short coat and tight breeches were preferred to the loose ones as well as instead of a long coat. Rather than the wigs or tri-corn hat, the head kerchief and sash belt applied, which could be evidence of the upward flow as well as shows proof of the influence of majo and maja costumes.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.29-44
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• 2006

This study was aimed at giving help to the people intending to change hair fashion feeling for making their own hair style design and also providing the academic guide line to the cosmetic circles for developing new hair design and promoting sales by producing hair styles following the results from the statistical analysis based on the theoretical study on the face contour groups & hair fashion feeling groups. The researching methods were composed of following 3 steps ; prior theoretical research, statistical analysis, and hair style production. At first, the prior theoretical research was accomplished by analysis of literatures, magazines and internet sites about face contour, total & hair fashion feelings, hair style productions. Second, the prior statistical analysis were done about hairstyle images & their charateristics based on fashion feelings, and characteristics of fashion feeling group. And the third, hair style productions were done coordinated by face contours(oval, circle, long, square, reverse triangle) and hair fashion feelings(natural, sexy, sophisticate, ethnic, romantic pretty, elegance, sporty, avant garde) following the statistical results. But owing to the limitations to change hair length and color, these changes are modified by wigs and photoshop 7.0 program. So we could know there was no confirmed hair fashion feeling of one's best, but one could change one's hair fashion feeling and express one's beauty if one could adjust one's hair styles properly to one's face contour. This study would be very helpful to the people trying to change their own hair fashion feeling and be useful to the cosmetic circles for developing new design and promoting sales by comprehending hair design market and also be valuable to develop the methodology of 3 step research.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.395-406
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• 2019

This study examined what meaning East Asian women showed in their costume history through a discourse of hair adornments such as wigs and that Gache was not just a luxury decoration. In addition, we examined Gache hair trends with Eonjeun-meori (braid wraps around the entire head) in the Joseon dynasty (Korea), Gigye(旗?) hair in the Quing dynasty (China) and Mage(?) hair in the Edo period (Japan) during the $18^{th}$ and $19^{th}$ centuries. The significance of the phenomenon of East Asian Gache culture in the $18^{th}$ and $19^{th}$ centuries was analyzed from the internal desires of women. The details are as follows. First, the magnification by the hair decoration was identified with self-authority and used as a sign to express self-respect or a desire for self-esteem. The extended Gache was an external body extension to raise self-authority and increase activeness. Second, self-satisfaction through showing off was associated with a women's search for identity. There was excessive consumption to boast status, wealth and femininity, but the mania continued because women obtained psychological satisfaction by feeling that their sacrifices for the Confucian order were compensated. Third, the frenzy of Gache was accepted as a way for women to resist social regulations and find themselves as main participants in social activities. Showing their appearance in East Asian Gache culture was a way of inner self-searching and a process for women to find themselves as a social entity.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.819-825
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• 2022

전문 직업인으로서 자질과 실력을 검증하기 위한 미용사 국가기술 자격증의 중요성이 증가하는 가운데 헤어 실기과제에 대하여 헤어디자이너가 지각하는 직무 태도 연구를 통해 성취동기와 직무 태도 향상이 필요한 시점이다. 이에 헤어살롱에서 근무하는 헤어디자이너의 직무 태도에 미치는 영향을 연구한 결과 미용사 헤어 국가기술 자격증 실기과제 중 블로우 드라이는 헤어디자이너의 직무 효능감을 유발하는 것으로 나타났고, 두피 스켈링과 샴푸는 헤어디자이너의 직무만족도를 유발하는 것으로 나타났다. 연구 결과를 바탕으로 가발에만 국한되는 비현실적 실기기법이 아닌 미용산업체에서 고객에게 다양한 기법으로 유용하게 적용할 수 있는 실용성을 가미한 자격증 실기과제에 대한 다양한 제시가 가능해지며, 체계적인 교육과 헤어디자이너의 직무 태도 향상을 유도하고자 한다. 더불어 본 연구는 헤어디자이너의 성취동기 향상을 위한 다양한 실기과제 개발의 기초자료를 제공하리라 사료한다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.113-133
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to establish academic identity as well as produce human resources that industries need by grasping curriculum of the departments related beauty focusing on Korean colleges (junior colleges and four year course colleges), analyzing examples of advanced countries and suggesting their developmental direction. For the research method, the reference period of curriculum in Korean colleges was from Jul. 05th, 2011 to Aug. 05th, 2011. the investigation method is as follow: first, the curriculum of the departments related to beauty which were registered in the web sites were investigated. Second, the documents were received by fax and Email from each department after calling it. Third, questions and answers were done in reference to majors on the phones. these methods are intended for 65 junior colleges and 16 four year course colleges (total 81 ones). It clarified that lifelong education centers and the graduate courses were ruled out. the statistical analysis about data which were investigated like this were done by the frequency analysis. The results which examined the major subjects of Make-up focusing on Korea and foreign countries are as follow: First, the result which examined the major and theory subjects of Make-up has found that there are the human body theory, the equipment theory, the marketing theory are the management theory in Korean junior colleges and physiology/chemical, management, marketing and equipment product were treated in four year course colleges of Korea. As for foreign colleges, the subjects related to history and culture are mainly treated as the theory courses and their purpose is to cultivate basic knowledge of the fields which are mainly connected to Make-up including plays, movies, TV and studios. Second, the result which examined practice subjects of Make-up major has found that practice subjects of the total ones are of great importance in junior colleges. And it could be found that the Make-up field is of little importance as it is not independent and exists with the hair and skin fields in one department in the four year course colleges. Especially, in the foreign countries, the more detailed and professional subjects including classes which treat digital media, studio technologies, production, wigs and the special effects were treated by the field class system and these characteristics implies that Korean curriculum should be changed in the future. Based on this analytical results of investigation, this researcher tried to propose the developmental direction of Korean curriculum in the future.