• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.5-21
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• 1998

This study aims to show how tradition and modernity has interacted to produce the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korea. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceeded. And photos of the modern Korean dress from 1980 to 1997 were analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the body form was studied in terms of exposure and concealment of the physical body parts and the perception of body was classified into two categories, the abstract and the realistic. And the dress form was studied in silhouette and the perception of dress was assorted as body priority and clothes priority. Second, the aesthetic values of body were categorized to divinity, humanity and sexuality. And the aesthetic values of dress were defined in relation to the aesthetic values of body as ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty. Third, while the traditional Korean costume (Hanbok) pursues the aesthetic values of divinity and humanity of human body and ascetic beauty, pure beauty and natural beauty on the aesthetic values of humanity of human body and the pure beauty and natural beauty of dress. The contemporary Korean fashion expresses the aesthetic values of divinity, humanity and sexuality of human body and the aesthetic values of ascetic beauty, pure beauty, natural beauty and erotic beauty of dress. In conclusion, the emphasis of sexuality of body and erotic beauty of dress in the modern Korean dress can be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness of body and dress in contemporary Korean by the influence of the western modernity.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.20-34
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• 2010

This study is intended to suggest the characteristic of dress and its ornament introduced in terms of naturalized words on Korean newspapers and magazines published from the age of enlightenment to the Independence(1876-1945). First of all, naturalized words in that period(1876-1945) can be classified into words originated in Japanese, words originated in western countries and borrowed words came from Japan. Borrowed words which came from Japan are almost related to Japan's traditional dress like Gudu, Gabang, Kimono, Nemaki, Ebijahagama, Hagama, Sirusibanden, Doriachi, Dombi, Sarumada, Sseumeeri, Doriachi, and Mombbe. Borrowed words originated in western countries are like Frock coat, Bonnet, Necktie, Chapeau, Scotch, Homespun, Chamois, Skirt, Spring Coat, Ribbon, Silk hat, Panama hat, Handbag, Pajama, Shawl, Apron, Cuffs, Pocket, Handkerchief, Morning coat, Combination-one piece, Rain Coat, Burberry, and Permanent, etc. Borrowed words came from Japan is Lasa[raxa], jokki[jaket], Les[lace], Veludo[velvet], Bbanss[pants], Oba[overcoat], Meliyas[medias], Shass[shirt], Manto[manteau], and Sebiro[civil clothes]. As we can see from the result of research, borrowed words from the age of enlightenment to the Independence was because of its special social situation, Japanese imperialism, they are divided into real western words and words came from Japan or Japanese. In terms of items, a lot of words related to men's suit and women's dress, accessory, etc. It confirms that men's dress was westernized in the whole part compared to partially westernized women's one. A lot of words used at that period are now adapted to Korean language and became the foundation of words used in the current dress and its ornament area.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.34-47
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• 2008

Recently, as popular interest in costumes in Korean films and TV dramas has increased, traditional dress in works has re-evaluated with modern perspective of the Western color system. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. First, the traditional dress for women appeared in works after the 2000s has shown features similar in the use of red has appeared high. The high frequency of brown and pink, orange and purple used main colors in Western works. Also, what is the most prominent is the high frequency of use of achromatic colors. Second, the color harmonies of the East and the West have been done through color arrangement. The structure with more than 2-colors has been gradually changing into single or 2-colors, which give simple images to people. Third, in order to portray characters' diverse and psychological situations, Korean works have expressed the symbolisms of colors from the Western perspective. Though red symbolizes theory of Yin-Yang and Five-Elements, passion and authority since 2000 have used red to make main images. Also, pink is used as softness and pure images. Though works before the 2000s showed low frequency of the brown. The achromatic color that it has been applied to various parts. Recently black has been developing into a color symbolizing themes. Given the results from this study, it could be expected in future that the categories of color domains will be gradually extended as it is a trend for the traditional dress to escape from primary colors. On the other hand, achromatic colors that minimal and modern sensibility as well as basic color in fashion, especially the black, will increasingly extend ranges of utility or show a tendency of resolute changes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.510-520
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• 2000

Despite the important of qualitative research method, little is used to understand dress and culture in Korea. This study proposed qualitative research method to understand deeply cultural aspects of dress. The articles which were selected from J. of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, The Korean Society of Costume, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Home Economics Research Journal, published master's thesis and doctoral dissertation, and interdisciplinary articles were analyzed from 1977～1999. Based on results of the analysis of articles, it was found that qualitative research method was appropriate to understand dress and culture. Many articles were dealt with non-western culture. However, the use of qualitative research method is very well suited to help the researcher understand concepts that are deeply embedded in western culture. Implications pertain to researcher in the area of human behavior and marketing. The importance of dependability and credibility was discussed in qualitative research method.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권1호
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• 복식
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• 제41권
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• pp.207-223
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to abstract the image from black dress, which has been favored by many people regardless of the times and examine it throughout the history of drss and thereby clearly define the images that black limplies in dress. Color image is a visual symbol, an image that forms through a combination of visual stimulus created by color, coupled with all the external factors related to it. Black is a one-dimensional color, of which the impact is subjective to its energy, which depends on light reflected on the object, and its texture. Therefore, black projects different images, depending on its surroundings. In general, black has had negative connotations in the Western culture. In dress, however, it has implied other various images different from the general negative ones. By combining general images of black and those exprssed in dress, major images of black were categorized into dignity, elegance, eroticism, asceticism and tragedy. Dignity is a category similar to the sublime. Dress with dignity has sharp contours and is generally made of velvet or silk which can be characterized by their splendor and voluminous-ness, exaggerating the body of a person wearing it. Such costume is mostly found in powerful countries in history such as Burgundy Court in the 15C, Spain in the 16C. Netherlands in the 17C. Elegance evokes grace and beautifulness. It includes elegance, grace, beauty and dandyism as subcategories or silk. Good examples are dandies' black costume and Ladies black and white dressees in the 19C. Eroticism is an image which expresses sexual attractiveness. Costume with eroticism is made of velvet or silk, which project sumptuousness through reflection. Such costumes expose parts of the body or are tightly tailored in order to emphasizes body contours. Asceticism means restraint from physical and mental desires. Costume with asceticism makes a person wearing it look smaller by covering the whole body. Puritan's black dresses and Bourgeoisie's black suit are good examples. Tragedy is anguish. sorrow. Black costume with grievous feelings such as mourning dresses is made of lusterless textile concealing most of the body except for the face.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.50-63
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• 2024

Chinese traditional wedding dress is a unique cultural symbol. It had a deep historical background as it went through different productions in each dynasty. However, with the introduction of Western ideas, an increasing number of people are wearing Western-style wedding dresses when they are getting married. Recently, traditional Chinese culture has been increasingly valued. Demand for traditional Chinese wedding dresses among modern Chinese people is increasing. Following this trend, Chinese designer Guo Pei(1967~) is actively innovating elements of traditional Chinese wedding dresses. This study aimed to analyze changes in traditional wedding dress styles by dynasty in China from 1046 B.C. to 1911 A.D. based on museum data and previous research. Changes in traditional wedding dress styles by Chinese dynasty were analyzed and organized. The meaning of wedding dress patterns was analyzed by type using traditional Chinese patterns. This study focused on Guo Pei's 2012 "Chinese bride" series and "Legend of the dragon" series. Starting from the development and characteristics of traditional Chinese wedding dresses, this study analyzed fashion characteristics of Guo Pei's wedding dress series. Goals of this study were to preserve the essence of traditional Chinese wedding dresses; and to determine how to apply the fusion of traditional Chinese design elements into fashion and modern design to wedding dresses.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2009

This study is intended to examine the modernization of Chinese costumes through historical events, and to analyze the characteristics of the costume modernization process. The modernization of Chinese costumes appears to have begun with the Opium Wars, and the Nanjing Treaty(1842), the Beijing Treaty(1860) and the official residence of western people in Chinese territory. Afterwards, in order to initiate change, the Chinese people themselves implemented the Westernization movement(1861-94), placing an emphasis on the westernization of external elements such as technology and form, but aspects such as costume, deeply saturated in their traditions, do not appear to have changed significantly. Despite self-empowering movements such as these, as western forces diffused deeper into the Chinese mainland, neo-intellectuals formed the axis of a revolutionary movement. A major example can be found in the Xinhai Revolution(1911) revolution, which forbade the binding of feet and shaving of frontal hair and partially implemented western formal dress. Through these factors, the modernization process of Chinese costume demonstrates characteristics of an adherence to traditional dress and partial acceptance of western attire. Through this, we may understand the modern costumes of China, which adhered more to tradition than Japan, which pursued western costumes actively within a similar period, and Korea, which rushed modernization due to Japanese authority.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.97-103
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• 2008

This research thesis is designed to put Korean traditional and unique wedding dress with a greater significance and value than any other dress into application right for the global and contemporary trend, as part of a bid to show Korean traditional beauty. To do it, this thesis has attempted to add the traditional beauty to Korean inherent wedding dress and contemporary wedding dress, with the use of various traditional beauty elements, such as the line firm, materials and color based on the research on wedding dress, such as, 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket, and 'Long-sleeve Red Silk Jacket', and 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. To recreate Korean traditional beauty of line this research thesis has firstly put into the application the sleeve of 'Wonsam' or 'Unlined Jacket' and the form of a large section of 'Wonsam' of 'Unlined Jacket', and 'Doreyon Line' or 'Trimming Line' of 'Dangeu' or 'Court Suit' as wedding dress that women wore in the Joseon Dynasty. Secondly, this thesis has applied lotus and peony patterns out of traditional ones inlaid with 'Long-Sleeve Silk Jacket' into the contemporary wedding dress to develop a creative and special design. Thirdly, regarding the expressive pattern technique, this thesis has designed the repetitive rhythmical pattern with the use of beading technique and embroidery technique, which makes needle work picture and pattern in fabric. Lastly, it can demonstrate the original and distinct Korean style in application of western wedding dress into traditional and contemporary dress, by devising two collections of dress art pieces.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.19-32
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• 1999

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Dan dynasty has been 10-parts dancer and musician group for courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 2. Except ceremonial dance and music common dance and musics performed it in front of common peaples meetings. 3. After unification of Dang dynasty many commercial men and artist come frome western of China threfore influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peaples costume without concern of that one's social position. 4. As the people who lived in thewest areas of old china there characterestics of the costumes are open breast jacked breast laped long skirt long scarf long boots narrow sleeve jackets patterend textilles(for womens) round neck narrow sleeved one-pies dress belt, long boots. patterend textiles(for mens). 5. Dancer's Costumes mode are as follows: 1) For females : high hair style, Twin 'high hair style. jewrery decorated hat bird's hair decorated cap. ribons. 2) For mens: Bok-doo. Hokongdu 6. Except traditional old china dancer dress they have many interested dancer dress for instance dang dynasty's 'Ye-sang woo yui dnace' dancer dress is very elegant and interested hip level jacket has peacoak wing shaped sleeves and long skirt has try angles shape attached apron this dancer dress begins wi-jin nam·book-dynasty. 7. Men dancer dress is just head cap bok doo long narrow sleeved one-pies dress.