• 한국실내디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국실내디자인학회 2001년도 춘계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.64-68
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• 2001

As Dutch structuralism discovered a possibility that can improve the problem of modem architecture through study on non-western area. Dutch structuralism had tremendous impact on Philosophy, psychology, art history and the style of a dress and many other cultural trend. In architecture, Aldo van Eyck embodied that theory and succeeded to Herman Hertzberger and Piet Blom. As result Structuralism related with architecture has dealt with the participation and domain of residents, namely public domain and private domain, the approach property of public space, middle domain which shows the harmony between public domain and private one, and the structuralism discovered that each element of public space and private space has been developed as an architectural type that makes a group by repetitive arrangement and it found out a possibility that can make up problems overlooked in modem architecture through development and change.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.691-698
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• 1998

This study investigated the clothing constructional characteristics of contemporary folk Jogori design retailed at the market. This study focussed on comparison of style variation between contemporary Jogori and traditional Jogori. The data were collected from five top contemporary folk dress makers's 997-1998 fall-winter collection. The results of this study were as following. 1) The traditional folk clothing constructional elements remained most among the con- temporary Jogori design were center back seam(Deung-Sol) and attached front bodice extensi on(Sup). Neckline shaping(Geet) and neckline binding(Dong-Jeong) were also observed frequently. 2) The most obvious changes from the traditional Jogori design were elimination of the ribbon fastener in front, adaptation of various neckline shaping used in the Yi dynasty, and lengthened garment length. 3) The western garment construction techniques applied to the contemporary Jogori design were use o( pocket and button closure. The center front extension was replaced with attached front bodice extension(Sup) for a few Jogori design.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.29-42
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• 2000

It has long been believed that European clothing style has been developed independently without the Eastern influence. This deductive assumption has limited the understanding about the contents of Eastern clothing style, and there has only been limited studies on the Eastern influence on the European clothing. The lack of understanding and interest made the traditional Eastern influence on the European clothing. The lack of understanding and interest made the traditional Eastern clothing to be considered as merely exotic and relatively unimportant. Therefore, a thorough study and understanding of the contents of the Eastern clothing style and its influence on the western world is very much needed. The objective of this study is to see how the clothing of the Islamic Osman Turk had influenced Europe during the Gothic and Renaissance period and to find the relationship between the development of the East and West clothing style. This study also has the purpose of re-evaluating the importance of the Eastern culture in the present multi-cultural global era of the 21 st century. The most typical clothing of the Osman Turk was kaftan and other traditional clothing included narrow pants and head dress. Through trade, war and other channels, the Turkish influence changed the styles and colors of previous European fashion that can be characterized by the simple designs of tunic and mantle into a dynamic dress culture. Cotehardie adopted the styles of the Turkish kaftan. The new weaving techniques enabled new clothing such as Pourpoint, Houpplelande made of brocade and velvet with elegant patterns come into European fashion. Also, head dresses, which before were not used except for religious reasons were widely worn. As such, Turkish fashion gave significant influence on the development of European clothing style.

• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.123-139
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• 2007

Since the late 1980's, the number of research papers published in the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume(JKSC) has increased. The JKSC is usually known for its focus on issues relevant to the aesthetics of dress, fashion design, and the history of Western or Oriental dress. The main goal of this paper is to link the academic importance of the fashion marketing field to the expansion of the journal and society. First, we defined the scope of the fashion marketing field, based on a literature review and general practices of other competitive societies and journals. First, we reviewed the curricula of the fashion marketing field from 49 universities in Korea. Next, we examined the research topics and methodology of 271 papers in the fashion marketing field published in JKSC since its first issue in 1977. By comparing the findings from the curricula and research, we drew conclusions for the fashion marketing field of the journal and society. We found that the approximately 80% of the fashion marketing courses provided at the undergraduate level are related to merchandise planning and selling processes from the company perspective. However, in more than 85% of the research papers, consumer characteristics and decision-making processes were the main focus and were used as key variables. These findings imply that more various methodological approaches are required for the research to enrich the theoretical background which, in turn, can support curricular development in fashion marketing field. The fashion marketing field in JKSC and society should make the most of accumulated knowledge in product design, symbolic aspects of fashion, and the qualitative approach in the research topics of the JKSC and society.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.97-110
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• 1992

West African's traditional looms, weaving and raw materials, structural patterning, dyeing and basic forms of dress were examines in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of West Africa, and to make a contribution to the policy planning for export market developing The research method employed was the analysis f written materials. The study was limited to the traditional clothing habit which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) They have vertical single-heddle loom horizontal or ground single-heddle loom, and double-heddle loom. The width of the cloth produced on the single-heddle loom varies about 38.5cm to 123cm and double-heddle looms all produced on the single-heddle looms all produced narrow strips of cloth varying in width from about 1.3cm to 75cm, although the average is about 10-20cm. (2) Despite the relative simplicity of the llom technology a remarkable variety of textiles are produced. (3) The most popular decorative technique in West African compound weaves is extra-weft patterning which is produced on both single-heddle and double-heddle loom by men and women weavers. Other forms of secondary patterning on textiles in West Africa are dyeing, applique, patchwork and embroidery. (4) Two basic forms of dress have spread throughout West Africa, the poncho (bpibpi) and the wrapper. Some versions of these basic forms are supplemented by western inspired trousers, shirts and blouses coupled with accessories usually complete their traditional outfits. They have a great variety of basic poncho, like as Khasa, Gandura, Tuareg-poncho, Babariga, Rigas (agba-da), Grand-boubou, Afteck, Tagua, buba, Danshike etc. Although West Africa has long been in contact with the peoples of the Nile region as well as the Maghreb and Sahara, both the boubou styles and the wrapper styles appear to have developed with a minimum of outside influence. African Islam was the principal agent for the diffusion of the boubou styles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.936-953
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• 2016

This article surveys the meaning and history of fashion museum exhibitions to understand the characteristics that make a fashion museum exhibition special. It explores dress museology and fashion museology in theory, and practice across a range of international case studies that include the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Mode Museum in Antwerp, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In particular, it examines how curatorial intervention has developed the interpretation and display techniques of dress within the context of the museum or gallery as well as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences. For a specific case study, we review the types and roles of fashion exhibitions organized by the Simone Handbag Museum, Seoul. It is the first handbag-centered fashion museum in the world as well as one of the most representative local fashion museums. The museum collection includes fashionable western handbags from rare specimens of the $15^{th}$ century to the latest bags of the $21^{st}$ century, and presents a history of changing fashion cycles and the major socio-cultural shifts that have profoundly affected women's lives in public spaces. Exhibitions show the perspective to a range of curatorial methodologies and show the innovative approaches towards collections and displays with broader fashion issues such as gender, materialism and technology. The article is to help encourage further scholar discourse between fashion museum exhibitions and fashion museology.

• 복식
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• 제53권6호
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• pp.11-23
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• 2003

Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.143-156
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze changes in military uniform design according to the type of war in history and to suggest factors to be considered when designing military uniforms. Military uniform in this study has been limited to uniforms of land active soldiers and not only includes battle dress but also bombproof helmets, combat boots and webbing systems. Western military uniform was investigated starting from World War I focusing on the United States, United Kingdom, Germany and the Soviet Union, and Korean military uniform was analyzed starting from the Korean Day of Independence. Historical research, case studies and in-depth interviews were included in the study. World War I was a trench war. Khaki colors began to be used in battle dress, and steel helmets and gas masks were invented. World War II was a full-stale war. Many kinds of uniform were designed with various environments and roles of soldiers in mind, and camouflage was adopted in military uniform. Modern wars were wars of technique. Strong protectors were invented and diverse camouflages were adopted as rifles became increasingly accurate and biochemical weapons started to be used. Korea referred largely to the uniforms of the United States because it lacked both information on war and the financial power to invest in development of military uniforms. Finally, this study presents 5 factors to be considered when designing military uniforms: protection, camouflage, mobile and utility convenience, compatibility and symbolism. Wars of the future are predicted to be information wars utilizing realtime information collected through computers. Therefore new military uniforms with computers, communication devices and strong protective capacities need to be developed. This study aims to provide a theoretical basis for designing military uniforms of the future.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.85-95
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• 2022

This study aimed to clarify relationships between the westernization of military uniform systems and changes in the textile import industry during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation. For the goal, the study investigated the content and features of that had been enacted under the Eulmi reforms. It also examined the status of the textile import industry at the time, especially in relation to outer garments such as jackets or Eui, trousers or Go, and overcoats. Moreover, this study inspected how the above westernization changed the textile import industry. More specifically, the research analyzed the content of based on articles from the then state newsletter or 『Gwanbo』, and the then cabinet meeting or Euijeongbu's proceedings or 『Euiju』. Concerning the textile import industry, this study looked into relevant descriptions and trade statistics from 『KOPEИ(Hankukji)』, and analyzed changes in that industry in connection with the introduction of Western military uniform systems. As a result, this study found that increased imports of cotton fabrics during the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was correlated with surging demand for shirt or lining materials and increase in the use of Myeonyung following military uniform westernization. Similarly, an increase in silk fabric imports was an outcome of increased demand for lining materials. Also, the import growth of woolen fabrics was seemingly attributed to the use of Heuknasa and Heukyung as basic materials of military uniforms. Thus, military uniforms began to be made of fabrics, which hadn't been used before in the wake of westernization. This development brought changes in the textile import industry, which is supported by textile import statistics of the time. In conclusion, the westernization of military uniform systems under the Eulmi reforms of clothing regulation was a significant factor that changed the industry.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.137-158
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• 2005

Modernization of Korea had begun with the reformation of the Kab-o Reform in 1894, which the government had designed after the protectorate treaty with Japan in 1876. It had affected drastic changes on the formation and framework of a Han-bok by government and the main changes is found in creating new style of Gae-ryang Han-bok. During 1980's, the peoples were interested in traditional cultural heritage, and 'the campaign of wearing Woo-Ri Ot' prevailed in Korea to instill the radical sprit of Korean. A Han-bok, which was made at this time, has called a Saeng-hwal Han-bok. The purposes of this study are to defue the the words that are Han-bok, Gae-ryang Han-bok and Saeng-hwal Han-bok of meaning and characteristic based on the previous studies and historical materials and present a unified and historical opinion about Han-bok to the academic world and industry of Han-bok by the consideration. Han-bok is a traditional costume with a long skirt and long breast-tie based on the later Cho-sun and is emphasized a virtue and manner on it. Gae-ryang Han-bok is an improved Han-bok that is include with a Tong-Chima and Jeogori for making a movement and function better. Saeng-hwal Han-bok is originated by the movement of wearing Woo-ri Ot in 1984, is interpreted the traditional Korean beauty from the modem view and is a practice Han-bok for popularizing intodaily life. After investigating the 33 of previous studies, the characteristics and transitions of Han-bok are followed. First, the reason of fail about the reform of dress is a loss of traditional beauty. Second, the yes or no of the establishment of law about the reform of dress, it influenced on a reforming or wearing speed of costume. Third, after 8.15, a modem girl and girl student can not impact on a system of Korean women anymore because, the number of the group that means a high educated and active woman, was growing. So, the elevation of women's education matured the system of Korean women's costume. forth, western style clothes are popularized after the Korean War and it is set down in the system of Korean women's dress.