• Title/Summary/Keyword: Weaving methods

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Characteristics of the traditional Atlas fabrics of the Xinjiang Uygur Minority Ethnic Group, China (중국 신장 위구르족 전통 아틀라스(Atlas) 직물의 특성)

  • Wang, Lifeng;Lee, Younhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.28 no.2
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    • pp.199-214
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    • 2020
  • The study investigates Atlas fabrics, the Ikat weaving method used by the Uygur People in Xinjiang, China. Based on domestic and foreign papers and other literature, different cultural characteristics of Ikat fabrics from various regions are compared. Following a theoretical investigation, characteristics of fabrics from the Indian Patola, Indonesian Ikat, Japanese Kasuri, and Uzbekistan Adras are summarized and compared with the characteristics of pattern, color, and manufacturing process of Atlas silk from Xinjiang China (also an Ikat fabric). The results are as follows. First, although the weaving process used for Ikat fabrics differs from country to country according to different national cultures, lifestyles, colors, patterns, and usage methods, they are all Ikat dyed fabrics. Therefore, they are all regarded as precious objects symbolizing a certain social status, and are used as a gift for special occasions, such as weddings. Second, the form of the pattern varies. Indian Patola has clear outlines and regular patterns, while the patterns of Japanese Kasuri are mainly inspired by folk life ideas. Indonesian Ikat contains influences from indigenous tribes, and Uzbekistan's and China's Atlas textiles are influenced by geography, religion, and national culture, including bright colors and pattern designs inspired by plants, musical instruments, and geometric figures. Finally, the patterns and colors of Xinjiang Atlas fabrics present strong ethnic characteristics. Unlike the Uzbekistan fabric which is mostly influenced by Islam, human and animal patterns would not feature in Xinjiang Atlas patterns, which mostly consist of long strips, repeated in a neat and orderly form.

A Study of Textiles used for Po(overcoat) in the Excavated Costumes of the Chosun Dynasty (조선시대 출토복식 중 포류에 사용된 직물유형 연구)

  • 조효숙;임경화;김지연
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.4
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    • pp.113-129
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    • 2003
  • This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

Review of a Case of Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease in Workers Exposed to Synthetic Fibers

  • Hyeon-cheol Oh;Chae-seong Lim;Jung-won Kim;Eun-seok Kim;Ji-eun Lee;Sang-cheol Kim
    • Journal of Korean Society of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene
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    • v.33 no.3
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    • pp.273-279
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    • 2023
  • Objectives: Objectives of this study were: 1) to introduce industrial situation and health hazards of synthetic fiber, 2) to review a case of chronic obstructive pulmonary disease in a worker exposed to synthetic fiber reported to the Korea Occupational Disease Surveillance Center, and 3) to suggest supplementary measures for the occupational health system for workers exposed to synthetic fibers. Methods: Respiratory exposure, health hazards, and exposure standards for synthetic fiber dust in Korea and other countries were reviewed. In addition, a case of chronic obstructive pulmonary disease due to exposure to nylon dust reported to the Korea Occupational Disease Surveillance Center was reviewed and summarized. Results: The worker was a 53-year-old non-smoking male who had been involved in the nylon weaving process for 26 years. He had shortness of breath from three years ago. He was diagnosed with chronic obstructive pulmonary disease. PM1.0, PM2.5, and PM10 were measured at 26.6 ㎍/m3, 48.2 ㎍/m3, and 91.7 ㎍/m3, respectively. Fiber components estimated as nylon fiber were detected in the microscopic examination of a solid sample. Conclusions: For workers exposed to synthetic fiber dust, special health examinations of the respiratory system, regular work environment measurement, and work environment management through workplace health management should be performed. It is necessary to research on health effects of synthetic fibers.

Low Carbonization Technology & Traceability for Sustainable Textile Materials (지속가능 섬유 소재 추적성과 저탄소화 공정)

  • Min-ki Choi;Won-jun Kim;Myoung-hee Shim
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.25 no.6
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    • pp.673-689
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    • 2023
  • To realize the traceability of sustainable textile products, this study presents a low-carbon process through energy savings in the textile material manufacturing process. Traceability is becoming an important element of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), which confirms the eco-friendliness of textile products as well as supply chain information. Textile products with complex manufacturing processes require traceability of each step of the process to calculate carbon emissions and power usage. Additionally, an understanding of the characteristics of the product planning-manufacturing-distribution process and an overall understanding of carbon emissions sources are required. Energy use in the textile material manufacturing stage produces the largest amount of carbon dioxide, and the amount of carbon emitted from processes such as dyeing, weaving and knitting can be calculated. Energy saving methods include efficiency improvement and energy recycling, and carbon dioxide emissions can be reduced through waste heat recovery, sensor-based smart systems, and replacement of old facilities. In the dyeing process, which uses a considerable amount of heat energy, LNG, steam can be saved by using "heat exchangers," "condensate management traps," and "tenter exhaust fan controllers." In weaving and knitting processes, which use a considerable amount of electrical energy, about 10- 20% of energy can be saved by using old compressors and motors.

A Study on the Characteristics of the Manufacturing Method of Handbags by Brand

  • Youshin Park
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.27 no.6
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    • pp.66-84
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    • 2023
  • Handbags are a part of fashion and while their significance and value are increasing, research on this topic is lacking. This study defines handbags and categorizes the materials used for making handbags, sewing methods, expression techniques, and terminologies related to accessories. A total of 1,743 handbags that were released from the Spring 2020 to Fall 2023, Ready-to-Wear collections by 8 selected brands (Hermes, Dior, Fendi, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gucci, and Alexander McQueen), were analyzed. Out of these, 732 unique designs, excluding those with only color variations, were studied. The most common sewing methods were 'Cut, sewing, and edge painting', 'Cylinder arm sewing', 'Cut, edge painting, and sewing', and 'Inverted seam', in that order. Slim strap designs primarily used the 'Cut, sewing, and edge painting' method, whereas the body, especially with narrow and hard leather, was best suited for the 'Cylinder arm sewing machine'. For expression techniques, the most frequently used methods were 'Quilting', 'Metal Eyelet', 'Embossing', 'Printing', 'Punching', and 'Weaving', respectively. The characteristics of each brand's production methods, expression techniques, and accessories were as follows: First, the exposure of logos and monograms is prominent. Unlike clothing, handbags often prominently feature the brand's logo or monogram. Second, signature quilting is a prominent feature. Quilting effectively conveys the brand's signature style, providing cushioning, volume, and pattern effects. Third, sustainable development is a growing trend. Brands are increasingly applying eco-friendly and socially responsible designs.

A Study on the Characteristics of Types of Activity Diagrams for Experimental Residential Design (실험주거 행위 다이어그램의 유형별 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Kim Jong-Jin
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.14 no.3 s.50
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    • pp.28-35
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    • 2005
  • This study is focused on the characteristics of organization types of activity diagrams for experimental residential design. Diagrams became one of the crucial design methods to rationally generate a definite spatial form that contains indefinite human activities In contemporary architecture. Particularly in residential design, activity diagrams based on the occupants' behavioral patterns have been critically important. 'Scientific Management in the Home' by mathematical calculation and the Archigram's 'Living 1990' equipped with innovative technologies are the representative examples in modern architecture. The study is focused on the experimental residential projects since 2000 and three main types of activity organization were discovered: 'Weaving through Circulation';'Flexible Space by Equipment' and 'Activity Selection by Open-Close System'. Two projects from each type are analyzed in detail to further develop the comparison study. The study is concluded that, although the architect's preconceived . philosophical background has an important role, activity organization should smoothly derive from the unique conditions of the project such as the characteristic of the occupant itself.

Development of fashion design applied to costume of the Chinese Minority Xinjiang Uygur (중국 신장 위구르족 복식의 특성을 활용한 패션 디자인)

  • Wang, Lifeng;Lee, Younhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.28 no.4
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    • pp.492-507
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    • 2020
  • This study aims to develop fashion designs that combine atlas fabric with the characteristics of Uygur costume to modernize the costume of the Xinjiang Uygur. Research contents and methods are as follows. First, based on previous studies, research analysis was conducted on the cultural background, clothing characteristics, and material of Uygur clothing. Second, based on such research contents, designs combining the characteristics of Uygur costume and atlas fabric were presented. Third, to analyze the utilization of atlas fabric and examine fabric characteristics, material was gathered from collections on domestic and foreign web sites. Through field explorations of local museums in the Xinjiang area, minority group culture was observed in more detail. Based on collection of traditional clothing and analysis of its characteristics, fashion designs that apply contemporary trends were developed. General silhouettes without any restrictions to the waist and decorations made using embroidery were often used. Atlas silk, developed in China using Ikat weaving methods, is an important traditional clothing fabric of the minority group Xinjiang. Based on such data collection analysis, the produced works highlighted traditional ethnic characteristics by extracting classical patterns of atlas fabric, modifying or partially expanding them, combining them with hand knitting, and adding contemporary sensations, thus providing confirmations of the possibility of popularizing classic patterns in more practical manners.

Conservation of Embroidered Textiles and Textile Works (자수 및 직물 공예품의 보존처리)

  • Ryu, Hyo-Seon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.5
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    • pp.198-210
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

Expression Method and Technique of Upcycling Design in Contemporary Fashion Design (현대 패션에 나타난 업사이클 디자인의 표현 방법과 기법)

  • Oh, Yujin;Yoon, Jeong-A;Lee, Younhee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.7
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    • pp.109-123
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the expression techniques and methods of Upcycling fashion brands and designers who have focused on Upcycling, and have found success. The study used collected literatures, press releases, and Internet searches using the word, 'Upcycling' in order to investigate the design characteristics and to set up criteria to classify the material expression techniques found in Upcycling fashion design. The results are as follows: Firstly, according to the result of analyzing the product images of Upcycling fashion design, the most frequently used expression methods are deconstruction and reorganization, $d{\acute{e}}paysement$, and assemblage/collage. Deconstruction and reorganization is used to make most of the Upcycling fashion design products using recycled materials. It is one of the ways to create new value that transcends the value of the previous item. Secondly, Upcycling fashion design's expression techniques generally attempt to use recycling material diversely to complement the recycling material that is limited in some way to the purpose of clothing. In this process, we can find expression techniques used to bring out) the characteristics of Upcycling fashion design. Patching, adding, cutting, folding, or weaving is the technique mainly employed.

Development of Multi-pass Welding Method for Lifting Lug by Robot Weaving (로봇 위빙에 의한 리프팅 러그 다층 용접법 개발)

  • Kim, Young-Zoo;Kim, Kang-Uk;Kim, Suk-Hyoung;Kang, Sung-Won;Kim, Soo-Ho
    • Journal of Welding and Joining
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    • v.25 no.6
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    • pp.44-52
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    • 2007
  • A welding process of a lifting lug for lifting heavy objects is one of the important welding processes directly related to the safety in shipbuilding. Welding a lifting lug is done in the manually and takes about forty minutes. Working environment for the lifting lug welding is very poor due to an radiant heat and a harmful fume. The purpose of this study is to develop methods of multi-pass welding using the lifting lug welding robot system. This study shows robot welding methods to achieve proper corner, straight and connection welding and an effectiveness of application.