The aim of this study is to analyze the stage of image change in Korean fashion design in regards to the simulacre of Jean Baudrillard. The changing phases of Korean fashion design are as follows: First, the initial stage involved simple imitation, which replicated the original as much as possible, it expressed the basic composition of Hanbok, flat cut and rich silhouette, the color scheme of traditional colors, traditional patterns, materials, and traditional ornaments. In the second stage, the subject matter intervened to distort and transform from the original, the basic composition and structure of the Hanbok were barely maintained, they were either removed or part of the structure modified or expressed using modern materials and patterns. The third stage, were based on reality but differed from reality through subject and imagination, and only left a part of the basic composition of Hanbok, and were expressed through the partial modification of the elements of the Hanbok, for instance the silhouette, skirt waist, collar and breast-tie. The fourth stage of pure simulacre, which refers to a new image with complete independence regardless of the reality. This stage differed from the basic structure and composition of Hanbok, and showcased traditional Korean image of Korea's unique cultural elements, such as hanbok or crafts and artworks, in a modern fashion with a modern sense and practicality.
This Study in order to review the history of our children's costumes, this study examined the socio-cultural background of Chosun dynasty and then, reviewed children's costumes comprehensively during that period according to their considerations, kinds, colors and patterns. In addition, this study explored the possibility of making use of the characteristics of children's costumes during Chosun dynasty, since it was perceived that if our children should be dressed in a traditional costume designed with some traditional costume characteristics and ornaments, our tradition would be enlivened in their life and spirit. It is results can be summed up as follows; Our traditional costumes consisted basically of Yu(襦), Go(袴). Sang(裳) and Po(袍) and additionally of Headgear(冠帽), Dae(帶), Hwa(靴) or Yi and Beosun, which must prove that the Korean people is cultural people. Our ancestors were dressed first in Yu(襦), Go(袴). Sang(裳) and Po(袍) to be supported by dae(帶). Our traditional costume style was 'front adjustment' or otherwise, left or right adjustment. Commoners' costumes would change after the series of foreign invasions and again during mid-late Chosun dynasty. During the period of King Sukjong, Jeogori was far shorter and smaller, while China was more diversified and voluminous enough to look like a jar.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.26
no.1
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pp.17-31
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2024
The purpose of this study is to propose a modern use of traditional culture by developing creative fashion designs that combine modern and traditional styles based on an analysis of traditional costumes of women in the Tang Dynasty of China. The characteristics of the Tang Dynasty women's costume are as follows. The Tang Dynasty women's costume consists of a short coat (衫, Shan), skirt (裙, Qun), half-arm shawl (半臂, Banbi), and short embroidered cape (帔, Pei). The colors are succinct and elegant, commonly red, yellow, green and navy blue in its entirety. It may be classified by pattern that blend plant patterns, animal patterns, geometric patterns, and two or more mixed patterns. On the basis of the characteristics for traditional women's costume during the Tang Dynasty, the CLO 3D program is employed to develop digital fashion design for four pairs of 3D digital clothing and the production of two pairs of work product. The results are as follows. First, the development of fashion design reflecting the design characteristics of traditional women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty of China could be expressed as fashion design reflecting unique values while connecting tradition and modernity. Second, the 3D virtual clothing program displays an extremely important effect in design deployment and pattern arrangement by having efficiency and convenience in clothing production. The CLO 3D program is closely combined with the 2D design and 3D effect and heightened efficiency while being appropriate to realize sustainability while saving processing time and energy for the sample products. Third, the production of an actual product by facilitating the 3D virtual clothing design may lead to time savings and an effective economy and may allow for the comparison of digital fashion design and actual products as well as confirming the effects of digital fashion design.
The purpose of this study is to comprehend the color and the coloration of Han-bok on the oil-painting of modern Korea. Generally, the modern Korean art is from late 19th to early 1980s' for the lowest year. Through the introduction of oil painting and the painter's work which had been reflected painter's realism at these times, we might know that the phases of the times and we could see a Korean costume and color combination. In this study, Han-bok is divided to upper clothes, lower clothes and the other parts which was distinguished by the color. The color of Han-bok which is watched on the modern art oil-painting is mainly white. The primary color including red, yellow, blue and middle tone colors is in harmony. It means that the five colors of Yin-Yang Wu-hsing were preferred until the modern times. The coloration of Han-bok is classified to a one-colored arrangement, two-colored arrangement and three-colored arrangement. The one-colored arrangement by white and black is a peculiar coloration to the modern times. The two-colored arrangement is a traditional coloration of Han-bok. The color which is high value and chroma is arranged on jacket, Jeogori. A dimension rate that is related with the difference of value and chroma made a visual harmony. In many cases of the two-colored arrangement of neutral colors is not much different in Jeogori and Chima. So Han-bok which is two-colored arrangement of neutral colors is colored in a breast- tie, pigtail ribbon, cuff and waist band for getting visual focus. The represented three-colored arrangement is white Jeogori and navy blue Chima with red breast-tie. It is a perfect visual color combination. The color of Han-bok was inherited a traditional color and the combination of neutral color was balanced. It was a refinable coloration system according to a difference of value and chroma. It means that a color sensation and arrangement of Korean have been developed by our unique climate, nations and the culture which has been formed for a long times.
By reviewing the cultural and historical literature on persimmon juice dyeing and Galot in Korea and Japan, this study aims to show the similarities and differences between the traditional and eco-friendly persimmon juice dyeing practices of these two countries and suggest a direction for the development of modern Galot. The root of persimmon dyeing in Korea is presumed to have begun around the 13th or 14th century; however, no documents or records have been found to support this notion. Meanwhile, there are records of persimmon dyeing in Japan that date back to around the 10th century, but that fact is rarely mentioned. The historical and folk cultural significance of traditional persimmon dyeing in Japan and Korea was different in terms of the use of persimmon dye and the wearing of Galot. In other words, in Korea, Galot was mainly used as work clothes for farmers and fishermen, who took advantage of the garment's functional strength, while kaki-tannin in Japan was applied to fishing tools and industrial materials. Furthermore, Japanese traditional Galot (Kakigoromo) was worn by monks. This was a remarkable difference in that the garments were used as clothing by a special class within society. There were also differences between the two countries in terms of their use of modern persimmon juice dye and Galot. Korea is currently developing and releasing a variety of modern Galots. Meanwhile, Japan is attempting to develop a feeling of relaxation by using the natural colors of Kakisibu dyeing and applying sophisticated traditional pattern printing techniques to modern Galot.
The purpose of this study is to survey of dress and personal adornments of young Korean people from 1980 to 1992. This study is applied of the thoughts of culture of B. Malinowski and related to social and cultual background. The materials of clothes have had higher quality and the colors varied. And sports wear has popularized even for a daywear as people have concerned of the health a lot. Big look and unisex mode in casual wear have been also popular. Underwears and jeans became fashionable. Paints and skirts have been getting shorter and they reached to the mini length. And reformed-Korean traditional clothes has developed. Ecology has been appeared as a whole in fashion. The dress and personal adornments gave satisfaction to modern people who pursuit of healthy ad convenience of life and want to creat the individuality and intend to develop of traditional culture and want to express themselves as perfecdtion of self.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.25
no.3
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pp.97-111
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2023
Dynamic orphism images expressed with abstraction and construction in color are often found in modern fashion. Orphism stressing color is one of the many art trends that influence fashion. This work aims to examin its expressive effects and characteristics that appear in fashion and provide basic materials for fashion design study. This study proceeds with the following steps. First, the study takes on a theoretical examination of the orphism trend using a literature review. Second, based on its results, modern fashion's expressive features influenced by orphism are analyzed. Third, the study draws expression effects in modern fashion from these characteristics. The study coverage is confined to domestic and foreign collections released in the 21st century. The study contents come from an Internet-base domestic and international database and published material, including dissertations and books. Orphism expression effects are found in the following ways in modern fashion. First, it lies in the abstraction effect of color. This feature arrays flat geometric figure on the clothing surface and applies a strong sense of color inside it, as if color has an abstractive structured design. Second, it gives a dynamic sense visually to the clothes all at once by stressing the relation among and between the colors with powerful contrast. Third, it has a collage effect of color. This effect develops into an organic combination composed of geometric plane figures with intense complementary colors in a single piece of clothing. Expression types that presents the orphism effect in fashion are divided into clothing showing traditional orphism characteristics faithfully and clothing expressing conventional orphism characteristics mixed with modern trends. Further developed orphism fashion can be classified by the playful type, with graffiti added onto an orphism color structure, and the destructive type, where traditional orphism color orders are taken apart and reformed into a new color order.
Until 1960, the major housing type of rural area in Korea was traditional wooden frame building, which was made of natural materials. In the course of modernization and New Village Movement, most of traditional houses have been renovated focusing on changing roof material of rice straw into slate, keeping existing main wooden structure. And then from around 1980, by economical development the new houses have been constructed. On these three phases of traditional type, remodeling type and new construction type, the natural materials of housing facade as wood, soil, stone and plant changed into artificial materials as cement, chemical material and paint. At the same time the exterior color of housing also have been changed and varied. The purpose of this thesis is to find out the changing aspect of exterior color by comparing remodeled and new constructed housing with of traditional housing. The exterior color of one hundred and fifty seven houses were surveyed and the three color attributes of each part of facade, as roof, wall and window, were analyzed and compared. In case of traditional houses, 98.3% of color are concentrated on the warm color of Y and YR on HUE scale, and 88% of their color are low Chroma. And Value of their color has been varied and spreaded from low to high Value scale. From traditional types to remodeled and new constructed houses, the concentration ratio of warm color on Hue scale reduced from 98.3% to 68.7% and ratio of low Chroma was also changed from 88% to 73.2% and the ratio of low Value color reduced from 51.9% to 29.7%. The exterior color of houses in rural area varied on Hue, and the more saturated colors were used and they became brighter compared with color of traditional houses. It is expected that the results of this study can be used for basic data of exterior color planning and improvement into harmonized color with natural environment.
The purpose of this study is to link traditional patterns to modern clothing. Of all the traditional patterns, the cloud pattern was chosen for use during the development of a modern one-piece dress design. This study is based upon document searches, including research papers. Through these searches, it investigates the symbolic meaning, historical change, and formation of the cloud pattern. Based on this investigation, the study attempts to modernize the cloud pattern and apply the modernized patterns to the design of a one-piece dress. The design procedure includes three sub-processes: selection, arrangement, and color-scheme. The selection process was divided in two: first, the original form of the cloud pattern was hand-drawn using tracing paper: second, the form of the pattern was edited using Adobe Photoshop. The arrangement of the pattern was made through the checklist conception method, containing the following functions: expand, reset, repeat, and overlap. For the color-scheme of the pattern, Roy Lichtenstein's(1923~1997) work was selected, and the colors in his work were adopted when dyeing the rest of the one-piece dress as well as the cloud features. In conclusion, six modern designs of the one-piece dress were created by using one of Korea's traditional patterns - the cloud pattern. Therefore, this study can offer invaluable suggestions for multifaceted research on how to come up with design concepts which apply Korea's traditional patterns to clothing design.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.20
no.4
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pp.105-115
/
2018
This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.
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