• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.958-967
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• 2009

세계의 여러 종교들은 각기 다른 믿음체계를 바탕으로 다양한 체계를 갖추고 있으며, 종교적 의미의 표현인 종교복식 역시 종교별로 각기 다른 형식을 띠고 있다. 그러나 본 연구는 인류의 다양한 종교복식에서 나타나는 보편적 특징을 연구하는데 목적이 있다. 종교는 그 범위가 불분명하고, 연구의 한계성이 분명하므로 본 연구에서는 세계 4대 고등종교를 대상으로 연구한다. 본 연구의 목적은 첫째, 세계 고등종교에 대한 고찰, 둘째, 종교복식에 나타난 조형적 특징 연구, 셋째, 종교복식에 나타난 보편적 조형미와 미적가치에 대한 연구 및 논의 등이다. 세계 4대 고등종교의 종교복식에는 조형적 보편성이 존재한다. 첫째, 구성과 형태, 착장법 등에서의 비구조적 특징, 둘째, 인체를 감싸는 풍성한 실루엣, 셋째, 장식의 절제와 억제, 넷째, 무채색계열의 선호와 모노톤의 특징 등이다. 종교복식의 보편적 미적가치로는 종교적 절대성과 정숙성 등으로 인한 '감춤의 미', 장식이나 문양 등의 억제와 단조로운 색상 등에서 '절제의 미' 그리고 드레이퍼리와 비구조적인 특징에서는 '자연의 미'가 나타난다. 인간은 종교를 통해 본질적인 것을 추구하고 인체를 은폐함으로써 신성한 것과 접촉하려고 한다. 종교복식은 초자연적 타계와 믿음에 대한 표현이며, 의식의례 행위이다. 각 종교의 종교복식은 물론 종교의 영향을 받은 복식에도 이러한 감춤과 절제의 형식들이 고스란히 반영되어 있다.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.93-106
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• 2008

Asia Folk Costumes are certainly different from the Western Costumes. This distinction is based upon the effect of environment, technology, and social structure, and especially, which was generated by religion, ideology, and philosophy. The ideas of fundamental ground of this eastern features are religions such as Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The religion of the East has determined the form of traditional costumes, affecting the costume up to now. This study aims at the investigation of the effect of religion on the formation of East Asia Traditional Costumes around Korea, China, and Japan and its figurative beauty. Study was carried out by chiefly referring to literatures. Eastern Aesthetics was formed by accepting aesthetic concepts, acquired from the idea of Three Religions. Especially, the ideas of non-duality(不二), emptiness(空), five aggregates(五蘊), mind control(心法), derived by Buddhism, and nature theory(自然論) and creationism(創造論) of Taoism, and abstinence theory(節制論) and decorum(禮法) and the principles of Yin and Yang(陰陽) of confucianism have had great effect on the aesthetics of costume. The figurative features of costume, affected by three religions are described by the factors; First, non structural feature, second, the beauty of abstinence and chastity of ample silhouette, third, the feature of natural color and achromatic color, fourth, the figurative feature of costume by the principles of Yin and Yang, and fifth, bright ornaments. The aesthetic values of the East Asia Costume are 'A Beauty of Vacancy', 'A Beauty of Concealment', 'A Beauty of Nature', and 'A Beauty of Symbolism'. As philosophy, culture, and ethnics itself, the religions of Asia have had effect on the overall culture, which is inclusive of social structure, as well as art and aesthetics, and have decided the style of costume.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.129-141
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• 2007

In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.327-338
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• 2002

The analysis and examination of this study are focussed on the external deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier. The external deconstruction is a way of expression faithful to the literal meaning of 'deconstruction' and is the applied case of exposure, destruction, poverty, and decomposition as they are. The method and scope of this study are from 1980's to present, and the followings are the results of this examination focussed on the various literature of philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and foreign fashion journals. The exposure phenomena through the deconstruction expressed repeatedly in the works of Gaultier deconstructed the fixed idea of 'the inner wear should be worn inside the outer wear' and at the same time denied the dichotomical interpretation of the exposure and suppression, the traditional beauty and decadent beauty, the chastity and unchastity, the asceticism and sexuality, and obscured the notion of the inner wear and outer wear. The destructive deconstruction expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier introduced the elements such as hippy, punk, and kitsch, slashed before making dresses, crumpled unseemly like wastepaper, or made dresses with textures like paper scraps, and through destroying textures, yielded shock effects and tension. Poverty, through borrowing from the outwardly poor-looking elements of design, i.e. the patch work, decolor, dye, fading, fringing, incompletion, and handmadeness, liberated dresses and their ornaments from the outside. The traditional dresses were dresses having certain forms with formative beauty, but Gaultier disassembled dresses and raised questions about the logic of dresses themselves.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.808-820
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• 2008

The costume of Islam cultural area has been affected by the strict social structure, formed by religion, and traditional costume of Islam has been maintained up to these days under the influence of religion. Islam Traditional Costume, which is the succession of the traditional costume of southwest Asia region, became armed with the form of closed costume due to the chastity and oppression. There are figurative features of Islam Folk Costume; first, the dimensional form due to the ampleness, covering the body, second, the reinforcement of closed form such as chador and burqa, third, the symbolism such as the adornment or incantational ornament, which has been inherited from the former times of Islam era, fourth, the color, simplified with black and white. The aesthetic values of Islam folk costume are represented with 'The beauty of abstinency', suppressing the ornamentation and color, caused by the strict social atmosphere under the influence of the form of traditional costume and religion, 'The beauty of concealment' due to the closeness, with affluent costume forms, covering the body and even concealing the face, and 'The beauty of symbol' which is demonstrated with incantational ornamentation of face and interior decoration. In some nations amongst Islam nations, the wearing of hijab is strictly regulated but black chador and burqa are regarded as negative symbols, representing the closeness and oppression of Islam. It is the product of Orientalism from the western perspective. The Islam Hijab culture is the symbol of oppression towards women, but, on the other hand, it is the device to protect women and the traditional culture, symbolizing the identity.

• 복식
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• 제51권7호
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• pp.5-20
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to determine aesthetical characteristics of the Japanese traditional wedding dress for women by analyzing such dresses' aesthetical senses. For the purpose, the study showed four types of the dress, Zunihidoe, Iro-uchicake, Chiromuku, Hurisode and their photographed stimuli to subjects and then obtained data using the seven scale measures of meaning differentiation consisting of 25 pairs of adjective words. Results of the study are described as follows : Aesthetical senses shown in the Japanese traditional dressing dress for women included six factors in total, among which attractiveness was found as the main factor, followed by chastity. For the four types of the dress, its main factor while the remaining four types, were found having dignity as their main factors. adjective words which largely accounted for aesthetical senses included uncomfortable, unique, bright, dignity, classical, ornamental and beautiful, suggesting that the Japanese traditional wedding dress for women is somewhat unfunctional, high in dignity and aesthetic beauty. Aesthetical senses were most different according to nationality (Korea and Japan) when they were analyzed in terms of nationality, gender and whether of specialization or non-specialization.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1979

This is a study on angels' costumes in religious paintings, especially as this relates to the questions of concepts and theological symbolism. Angels, as spiritual creatures in Christian thought, play the role of praising God's glory, as messengers of God, the role of guarding Israel and the Church, and protecting or punishing human beings. Sometimes the angels appear in incarnate form. They display no sexual differences and are not able to procreate. The angels' funtional classification being thus; nevertheless, they are pictured in various costumes and appearances according to characteristics of the paintings. The angel Michael appears as a man of dignity when pictured as a guard; the angel Gabriel in the annunciation is often portrayed as a woman of mystical beauty. Under the Renaissance, the mighty cherubim and seraphim at Yahweh's throne are degraded as plump child-angels, or winged child-heads looking alike Eros or Cupid. They have become playful and all too obviously non-heavenly chrubs, accepted features of the Temple decorations. However, cherubim are often depicted as naked or wrapped around with a piece of cloth and accompanied with wind, which symbolizes the Glory of God. The angels, costumes without seam are hung over or wrapped around the body, and when sewn they are simple and ample enough that they fall in a great many folds. However, by the 14C. angels are mostly dressed in costumes common to all Europe, and after that angels gradually appear in folk costumes; for example Italian, Flemish, etc. Dalmatic, the typical costume of Byzantine often shows up as angels' dresses even after the period. Originally the dalmatic was the Roman tunic to which Eastern influences added. The Roman clavus on the tunic had gradually lost distinction until, by the Imperial epoch, it was worn by the lowest servants. It was proudly therefore, as 'The servants of God', that the early Christians are shown wearing the clavus on their wide, ungirdled, sleeved dalmatics. In addition to their costume, angels have some other distinct charateristics. First, angels have a halo around their head; this symbolizes their holiness. Second, angels wear a narrow diadem or a queen's crown that seems to denote their glorious status close to God's throne. Third, the cloth band across the breast resembles a priest's stole, which suggests the sacred role of a priest and symbolizes the grace santified. Fourth, lilies in the annunciations are symbols of Mary's virginity. chastity, innocence and heavenly bliss. Angels hold palms or olives in their hands. The former denote prosperity. beauty and the Christians' reward after death; the latter represent peace and amity. the imperial crown made of olives means victory. Fifth, angels in paintings always have a pair of wings, which can be traced to scripture where cherubim and seraphim are described as having pairs of wings. Angels' wings often have colors of the rainbow, and the rainbow is compared to God's glory. Sixth, generally artists paint angels' costumes as white, blue, green, gold and purple. Other colors such as red rarely appear. According, to scriptures it is believed that angels should be depicted 'as white as snow'. According to the biblical expressions of angels as lightning, sun or a pillar of fire, angels should be described as creatures of light. Nevertheless being a form of art, religious paintings may differ in their presentation according to an artist's inspiration and intention. Since religious paintings illustrated above were almost all done before the Reformation, symbols of colors used in the Catholic Church will also be mentioned. The white color symbolizes chastity, purity, brightness, delight and divinity. Green represents new birth, eternal life, spiritual revival and the expectance of the grace of God. Blue, the color of sapphires, denotes chastity and truth. Red, the color of rubies, represents divinity, love and religious passion. Violet is the color of dignity, indicating the sovereign, royal or imperial power and the great Sacrifice of Christ. As mentionad above, angels' costumes were expressed in accordance with contemporary patterns or as indicated in the Bible, and accesories and colors correspond with Christian symbols. Therefore these facts should be taken into consideration when it comes to the study of costume history.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.19-32
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to determine aesthetical characteristics of the Korean traditional wedding dress for women by analyzing such dresses'aesthetical senses. For the purpose, the study showed four types of the dress, jukyee, whalot, weonsam and private weonsam and their photographed stimuli to subjects and then obtained data using the seven scale measures of meaning differentiation consisting of 25 pairs of adjective words. Results of the study are described as follows; Aesthetical senses shown in the Korean traditional dressing dress for women included six factors in total, among which attractiveness was found as the main factor, followed by chastity. For the four types of the dress, whalot adpated revelation as its main factor while the remaining three types, or jukyee, weonsam and private weonsam were found having dignity as their main factors. Adjective words which largely accounted for aesthetical senses included uncomfortable, warn, chaste, intellectual, bright, unique, regular, luxurious, classical, ornamental and beautiful suggesting that the Korean traditional wedding dress for women is somewhat unfunctional, but high in attractiveness and aesthetic beauty and has a better classical harmonization of dignity and revelation. Aesthetical senses were most different according to nationality(Korean and Japan) when they were analyzed in terms of nationality, gender and whether of specialization or non-specialization. Japanese people had unique and interesting senses while Korean people, chaste, calm and delicate aesthetical senses. According to gender, men revealed free senses and women, classical ones. According whether of specialization or non-specialization those who specialized in a related field had more unique, straight, regular, luxurious and interesting aesthetical senses that those who did not specialize.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.15-34
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• 2001

Ornaments are accessories for the decoration of the body or dress. They aren't unavoidably required one, but serve to make one's dress perfect as decorative industrial art objects. In Morocco, ornaments were initially used as a sign of social position or the class or an incantatory symbol. In effect, they were originally employed to adjust one's dress, not just for decoration, and they were of use for household economy. Gold, silver and handcraft available for exchange were a means of increasing one's property and an indication of social standing and wealth. In particular, the dress and jewelry of a bride was a measure of her family's wealth, regarded as a symbol of her chastity and value. The ornaments symbolically back up people's faith in supernatural power, and their real value is based on implicit form or way of decoration, not the external shape. Specifically, there is a tendency to use the form of animal as a protector, not one to frighten people. In the artistic tradition of Morocco, fish pattern stands for water and rain, and eagle and bird are considered to be related to fate. Scorpion and lizard are depicted as an inquirer of sun, and snake is a symbol of abundance and sexual instinct, being viewed to have an ability to cure disease. Turtle pattern is a symbol of saint because it protects one from the evil. The ornaments are made of gold, silver, amber, clam, garnet, glass, nielle, enamel, glaze, coral or tree, and symbolic patterns are used, including hand(a symbol of five numerals), turtle, lizard, scorpion, eye, triangle, bird and eggs. They are very big and diverse, being categorized into ornaments for the head or the chest, neckless, fibula, earring, bracelet and ring. For Moroccans, make-up is a sort of instinctive behavior to meet aesthetic and sexual desire. They also wear make-up for practical purpose of protection, intentionally inflict a wound on the skin for ceremonial or religious purpose, paint the skin with pigment, or have the part of the body tattooed for incantatory purpose. All this actions are regarded as make-up. The raw material of cosmetics is aker, a vegetable dye. They get the lips or cheeks turn red and paint eyebrows with yellow saffran powder to have a bad devil lose its strength. Tattooing is mainly done by women and viewed as a sign of their value or social organization they belong to. Sometimes that is used to represent a woman's being old enough to marry or getting married already or the frequency of marriage. Besides, tattoo is believed to prevent or remedy loose bowels or cough, depending on its location or pattern, and they often change tattoo according to the change of beauty art.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.16-33
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• 2004

Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie 'Chicago' is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn't exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won't be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men's curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.