• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권6호
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• pp.1-19
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• 2002

This study is to observe the meaning, aesthetic formative nature of the human body which has been not only a main issue and discussion object but also socially, culturally connected with clothing by contemplating it in the respect of the trend of art. Additionally, a work of contemplation about human body introduced to fashion design was analyzed to renew the meaning and value of the formative art inside the human body. The way and scope of this study is to contemplate the concept and meaning of human body, based on the documentary records such as art history and clothing history in the West society as a main theme. The results of the analysis were as follows: In the first place, the formative characteristics shown in the modem arts expressing the human body since 1990 which are cubism, futurism, metaphysical painting, dadaism, surrealism, pop art, happening, feminism, body art, and technology art are distortion, exaggeration and dismantling. Second, the aesthetic formative nature and meaning in the human body appear to be different according to the standard of ideal beauty of human body when we examine the expression of it from the aspect of art-history and the meaning of human body implied in it. Besides, human body is being used as a messenger which delivers the message of modem artist to other people. So the changed meaning of human body has affected the clothing and made it possible to manufacture and form new styles of clothing that have never been before. In conclusion, the human body in the modem era plays an important role as a brand-new formative medium of communication in the human society and contributes to the development which applies the aesthetic formative nature of the human body to fashion design.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.11-18
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to review the origin and background of well-being, the emerging well-being culture, and the phenomenon and features of the hair beauty affected by it. For this purpose, the researcher reviewed dissertations written between 199a and 2002, copies of the beauty journal Short Hair published between 2002 and 2003, beauty newspapers published between March, 2003 and June, 2004, and relevant Internet sites. When we review the well-being hair style tendency, we may be reminded of a light shaggy cut style with a thick wave volume or a natural wave highlighted, or a natural style with a natural color rendered by the braid technique. The well-being hair styles may be inspired by such natural images as the earth, sand, rock, wind, feather and flowers, while using cut, permanent wave or coloring technique for the hairs, in order to create new hair styles. The goal is to make men in contact with the nature. Meanwhile, as people are more concerned about diverse hair textures, natural and healthy hairs, they want their hairs to look comfortable and active rather than luxurious. The well-being cut styles may be categorized into cut style highlighting healthy hairs with a Bobos luxury and soft and light stroke cut reminiscent of a Bohemian freedom. The well-being permanent style may be divided into thick wave, natural wave, and the permanent style using a strong wave to make hairs look bloated. The hair colors reminding us of some natural images are used to highlight a well-being image. In addition, the concept of well-being pursuing a happy and healthy life has been being introduced into the permanent wave material liquids; such liquids made from natural materials, fruits or herbs increase, while environmental-friendly liquids or materials are used more for healthy hairs. The reason why the well-being culture influences hair styles importantly may be that people's desire of healthy body and mind and a comfortable life is reflected in hair styles. In conclusion, as the hair styles or an index for a new cultural current in our modern age are influenced by the well-being phenomenon, more and more people will put priority on healthy hairs. So, it is deemed necessary to apply the well-being hair styles appropriately to render satisfactory hair styles.

• 한국시조학회지:시조학논총
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• 제30집
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• pp.263-300
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• 2009

이 글은 초정(艸丁)의 초기 시조집(時調集)인 "초적(草笛)"에서 마지막 시조집인 "느티나무의 말"에 이르기까지 일관되게 발견(發現)되는 자연관(自然觀)을 형식주의적(形式主義的) 방법(方法)과 구조주의적(構造主義的) 방법(方法)을 참고로 하여 자연관(自然觀)을 탐색(探索)하는데 목적(目的)을 두고자 한다. 이 연구의 대상은 시조시인(時調詩人)의 자연(自然)을 인식(認識)하는 사유체계(思惟體系)로서 기존(旣存)의 성과(成果)들을 수용하면서 사상적(思想的) 배경(背景)으로 고시조(古時調)에 나타나는 전통적(傳統的) 자연관(自然觀)의 동질성(同質性)이나 유이성(類似性)을 염두에 두면서 이질성(異質性)도 살피려 한다. 이러한 일련의 작업 수행은 초정(艸丁)시조의 내적(內的) 감정의 지향성(指向性)을 자연(自然)의 형태를 빌어서 살펴봄으로서 전통(傳統)의 계승과 발전적(發展的) 측면을 확인하는 것이 될 것이다. 따라서 초정(艸丁) 시조(時調)에 나타나는 자연관(自然觀)의 고찰(考索)은 나름의 의의를 지닌다 할 것이다. 전통적(傳統的)인 동양(東洋)의 자연관(自然觀)과 맥을 같이하는 고시조(古時調)에 나타나는 자연관(自然觀)의 흐름과 그 전통에 주목하면서 고시조(古時調)와 초정(艸丁) 시조에 나타나는 자연관(自然觀)을 천착(穿鑿)한 결과 고시조(古時調)에서 추출(抽出)되는 자연관(自然觀)은 첫째, 심성수양(心性修養)의 자연관(自然觀)으로 16세기의 자연관은 혼탁(混濁)한 정치현실과 대립되는 심성수양(心性修養)의 자연관, 둘째, 한거(閑居) 노동(勞動)의 자연관으로 17세기에 이르면 도학적(道學的) 우주론적(宇宙論的)인 전범성(典範性)이 쇠퇴(衰退)하고 천인합일(天人合一)의 자연관(自然觀)에서 약화되고 강호(江湖) 한거(閑居)의 감흥이나 전원생활(田園生活)의 구체적(具體的) 노동 공간으로 시적 관심사(關心事)가 나타난다. 셋째, 은일적(隱逸的) 격리(隔離) 공간의 자연관(自然觀)으로 19세기에 오면 중앙정치에서 소외된 사족(士族)들은 정권에 참여하려는 꿈을 접고 향촌(鄕村)에서 기득권(旣得權) 보전에나 힘쓰면서 세도가문(勢道家門)의 정국주도권(政局主導權)을 현실로 받아들이게 된다. 넷째, 자유분방(自由奔放)의 자연관(自然觀)으로 조선 후기로 넘어 오면서 도시(都市) 상업문명(商業文明)의 발달과 중간층(中間層)의 사회적(社會的) 부상(浮上)으로 시조의 형유층(享有層)이 사대부(士大夫)의 독무대에서 중간층(中間層)이 새로운 시조의 형유층(享有層)으로 부상하는데 가객(歌客)의 등장이다. 문화적(文化的)으로 성장한 중간층(中間層) 지식인들은 시조를 자신의 예술적(藝術的) 교양물(敎養物)로서 애호(愛好)하며 창작(創作)한 그룹이다. 20세기에 이르러 초정의 시조에서 발견(發現)되는 자연관은 첫째, 전통적(傳統的)인 관념논적(觀念論的) 자연(自然)인식으로 꽃을 빌어 사친(思親)을 연역하여 내는 데 있어 인생논적(人生論的) 의미는 배제되고 그 대신 객관적(客觀的) 사물성(事物性)으로 치환(置換)하여 간접적(間接的)으로 표현(表現)하고 있다. 둘째, 서정적(抒情的) 사향(思鄕)과 동경(憧憬)의 대상이다. 초정의 서정(抒情)의 지향성(指向性)과 모더니즘적 기교(技巧)가 보여 시각적(視覺的) 이미지로 고향의 그림이 보이고 있다. 셋째, 근원적(根源的) 사친(思親)의 인식(認識)을 보인다. 넷째, 유기체적(有機體的) 생명성(生命性)을 보인다. 다섯째, 노장적(老莊的) 정적미(靜寂美)를 표출(表出)하고 있다. 정적미(靜寂美)의 인식 대상은 구름 달 눈 낙수 산 낙엽 숲 하늘 봄 됫뫼 꽃 강남 강 바다 바람과 같은 원초적(原初的) 자연(自然)으로서 사물화(事物化)하고 이것을 다시 계절 감각으로 포착(補捉)하는 이원적(二元的) 표현(表現) 구조(構造)를 보인다. 마지막으로 자각(自覺)과 관조(觀照)의 인식이 발현되는 "초적(草笛)" 제3부 "노을빛 구름"에는 문화적(文化的) 유물(遣物) 혹은 역사적(歷史的) 유물(遺跡)을 소재로 한 시조가 집중적으로 수록되어 있다. <청자부(靑磁賦)>, <백자부(白濾賦)>, <옥적(玉笛)>, <십일면 관음(十日面 觀音)>, <다보탑(多寶塔)>, <촉석루(矗石樓)>, <무열왕릉(武烈王陵)>, <포석정(鮑石亭)>, <재매(財買)>, <여황산성>등의 작품이 실려 있다. "초적(草笛)"에서 보여준 고전적(古典的) 문화유산(文化遺産)에 대한 깊은 자각(自覺)과 관조(觀照)는 그 이후의 시조집인 "삼행시육십오편(三行詩六十五篇"에 이르기까지 변함없이 이어져 "항아리", "이조(李朝)의 흙", "내가 네 방(房)에 있는가", "관계(關係)", "포도인영가(蘭菊印影歌)", "착한 마법(魔法)", "금(金)을 넝마로 하는 술사(術士)" 등의 작품이 도자(陶磁)를 시적(詩的) 대상으로 하고 있다. 초정(艸丁) 김상옥의 시조에서 나타나는 자연관(自然觀)은 자연(自然)과 순응(順應)하는 고시조(古時調)의 전통(傳統)을 계승(繼承)하고 나아가 관념논적(觀念論的) 자연(自然) 인식(認識)이 자연(自然) 상관물(相關物)을 통하여 구체화된 사물화(事物化)로 나타나 표현(表現)의 간접성(間接性)을 드러낸다. 이러한 표현의 복합적(複合的) 중층구조(中層構造)는 고시조(古時調)에서는 찾아보기 힘든 실용논적(實用論的) 자연관(自然觀)을 보인다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.791-805
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to analyze the jeans advertising campaigns of the 1990's in South Korean magazine advertisements and their relation to the beauty trends of the 1990's in South Korea. There are three significant and varying periods in the 1990's. Each period will be dissected into four categories. The four categories are 1. Catchphrases 2. Pose selection of the models 3. Selection of models 4. Overall images and themes of the ads. The results are as follows : 1. 1990∼1993 ; Youth & Freedom From 1990 to 1993, jean ads emphasized the catchphrsase and the dynamic pose more and used the Korean model. The ads displayed youthful energy and the freedom of the younger generation. 2. 1994∼1997 ; Sex Appeal From 1994 to 1997, the second transition in jeans advertisements focus shifted from the youthful images of the early 90's to more sexually oriented ads. In terms of model selections and pose, Caucasian models instead of Korean models, and static pose were used more. The ads emphasized the image more than the catchphrase. 3. 1998∼1999 ; Diversity of Individuality & Naturalism During 1998 to the present day, the jeans ads no longer focused on groups but the diversity of individuality. The other focus of ads was the naturalism and the harmony with the nature. Both the static and dynamic pose, Korean model, and the image ads were used.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권6호
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• pp.687-699
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• 2011

Folk costumes in East Asia are characteristic in their colors of the five-element colors based on natural colors or achromatic colors (such as white or black) that imply the beauty of nature or the beauty of naivety. The Asian look adopts forms of Asian costumes into western costumes in terms of structure, silhouette, ornament, pattern, and color; in particular, color had very limited attributes. This study is a comparative study on colors, shown in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look. It discovered the differences of color in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look to discuss the backgrounds of difference. For research, it simultaneously conducted literary reviews and empirical research based on the Asian look. Asian colors that appeared in some costumes of the Asian look were influenced by East Asian costumes, while the primary color of playfulness or color for low chroma or black exuding a contemporary nuance (common in the western fashion) were prevalent. This revealed that the costume that had the attribute of playfulness in terms of structure, ornament, or patterns is adopted in western fashion through the fusion of eastern forms and pastiche. Colors of the Asian look are different from those of East Asia with superficial imitation, in which all the East Asian spirits and symbolism are lost. While folk costumes of East Asia hold symbolism derived from Asian spirits, the Asian look disintegrates the ideology of East Asian costumes and replaces it with a Postmodern playfulness.

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.153-167
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to supply the opportunity of being used as a material which can predict future fashion. This study had been divided the symbolic meaning into three parts. The first part was the symbolic expressions in the materials of modern fashion, and the second part was symbolic meaning which was expressed in the accessories, and the last part was the symbolic meaning which was expressed in the physical ornament. The results could be summarized as follows. First, among the forms of heraldry were expressed in modern Fashion, were such as animals like a lion and eagle, which evoked the powerful and lively mood. A vegetable heraldry was expressed on a pattern of textile fabric to pursue the beauty of dress, represented female and classical beauty. A inanimate object heraldry was included all natural material that didn't have all lives the world, represented the mystery and intensity of nature as using the design that sets off the idea through color and figure. Second, in the case of being the forms of heraldry used as a mark or logo in modern fashion, it was visualized the fashion of traditional sense, marine look and military look. This mark or logo had important characteristics of symbolic in that the product had a special meaning and function by trade mark. Third, tattos were used to heighten the people's union in the various subordinate cultures. By ornamenting their bodies, they expressed their special identity and consciousness. Tattos represented a unique menas, which effected a mood of fashion.

• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.96-111
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• 2012

This study is to analyze fashion phenomenon according to the concept of the characteristics of freewheeling to explain the de-constructive, eclectic, avant-garde tendencies in Contemporary Fashion. This study is to elicit the aesthetic characteristics through 400 pieces of visual data analysis from 2001S/S to 2011F/W that have the characteristics of freewheeling, nontechnical experiments do away with the classical form. The oriental ideas include the thoughts of different tastes that break the stereotypes according to the Western values and the pursuit of unconventional beauty. These also insist that everything in the world including human-being, nature and creation is not divided into two equal parts, and even beauty and ugliness originated from one. This study is to find the possibility of interpreting oriental aesthetics with open concepts that transcends the boundaries of full availability, unlike the Western values that accommodate the relative concept of the pursuit of diversity. Therefore, integrated and systematic approaches of oriental aesthetics that place much value on the coexistence of antithetic concepts are needed to understand the ambiguity of complexity and diversity in Contemporary fashion design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.173-183
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• 2002

The orchid has a very elegant color and various forms in the nature or the ground for human life and the mother of life, The purpose of this study is to express some creative formative art by using the orchid as motive, and thereby, suggest the possibility of an artistic modern costume design by reviewing the texture of the materials. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, it was confirmed through this study that the orchid with diverse forms and colors can be used as design motive in almost infinitely diverse ways, and that all the artificial forms or structures contain the elements of natural beauty. Second, the luxurious and rich sense of orchid‘s color can be maximized by using the complementary contrast effect of the dyeing technique and the color gradation effect through harmony among similar colors. Third, a high value-added costume can be created to meet modern men’s aesthetic desire by using such embroidery techniques as crochet, weaving, dyeing, beads embroidery and art flower. Fourth, different effects of texture can be rendered by using different materials of various textures and characteristics. In addition, the possibility of creative expression for costume as formative art can be enhanced by expanding the expressions of the materials.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.74-84
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine symbolic meanings of costumes shown by portraits of King Henry VIII and use them as basic data for research on costume design of historical dramas in the Renaissance or on King Henry VIII's costume. This study attempted analysis of symbolic meanings from the paintings-related various domestic and overseas literatures, preliminary study paper, and web sites etc. The symbolic meanings expressed by the portraits of King Henry VIII are characterized by authority, innovation performance, authority, masculinity, innovation performance, artistic taste, intellectual charm, intrepidity and benevolence. Especially, the portraits of King Henry VIII symbolized his masculine beauty by emphasizing sexual attractiveness that cannot be seen in portraits of other kings through broad shoulders and exaggerated codpiece which are the zenith of masculine beauty during the Renaissance age. Through the image of King Henry VIII which was painted with jester or barber surgeons, his characteristic and open mind thinking highly of the technique and human life was also expressed. In the portrait of King Henry VIII, various images set in knights' tournament, playing a musical instrument and reading a book as well as the image of wearing a parliament costume were shown, highlighting King Henry VIII as a person good at both literary and martial arts with open and innovative personality than any other kings in history.

• 복식
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.21-36
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• 2002

The Miaos have their own unique and luxurious culture traditional and modern formed as they have experienced repeated fusion into and resistance against the Han Race or the Chinese in their long and old history. Taijiang County of Guizhou Provice, in which whey have been living, is endowed with natural beauty. Thus their culture enjoys abundant and diverse contents of artificial and natural character. Naturally, their costume reflects cultural and natural features in abundance and variety. This dissertation aims to investigate the artistic character of Miaos' traditional costume as reflected in patterns for their embroidery. As for the artistic character of the patterns for embroidery, the following were found. To begin with, the space in the Miaos' embroidery is, unlike the measurable three-dimensional space found in Greek art, unmeasurable and fantastic with its beauty, majesty and peculiarity. It is as if immersed in limitless space, they were in communion with gods and universe. Another characteristic is the use of image construction beyond mere imitation. Their mode of image construction was realistic in that patterns as a whole reveal an abstract form or meaning but separately they portray visual representations of concrete thins in nature. Still another is that sense of motion conveyed by the basic curve line is full of life. It was the result of using light rhythm breaking stereotypic balance and symmetry. Finally, the colouring was abstract, and a strong contrast between black and white was gorgeous and fantastic.