• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.125-135
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• 1993

The purposes of this research are firstly to define the characteristics of movement on the costume, secondly to demonstrate that fine art, expecially in relation to kinetic art, has become a good motif in modern costume de-sign, and thirdly to examin the characteristics of movement as shown in modern costume de-sign. For this study, we selected and analyzed some costume designs among those introduced in fashion magazines, which are Collections, Fashion-Preview, Fashion Show, Collezioni, and L'Officiel that have been issued since 1988. As this research is carried out only through the analysis of pictures, it is not ac-companied by a study on material itself. The result of this study is that the ex-pression of movement on modern fashion can be shown in two ways, one is the inclusive and subordinate movement expressed on the cloth-ing according to the motion of body when they are worn, and the other is the movement caused by the very designs of clothing. And the latter can be also divided in two ways, the illusionistic movement and the actual move-ment. The expression of actual movement is made through the emphasis of direction, rhythm, and dimension of the costume. And the illusionistic movement is expressed by the de-sign to which the textile pattern or reflection of light is applied so that the movement is larger than the actual movement. A sense of direction expressed on the cos-tume by the actual movement creates a light rhythm and adds interest to the costume. This reflects a part of psychology of modern men who are not accustomed to the statics. In the rapidly changing society of information our modern men seek after movement even in the statics. It is also true in the clothing and they seem to get a psychological rest through the immediated visual change as shown in fashion design. The simple and cheerful rhythm expressed by the illusionistic movement on the costume is attempted in order to overcome the static tediousness caused by simple design. These elements of movement cause the en-largement of visible range and create another enlarged shape other than the real one, so that they come to remove the dullness and monot-ony in costume design and provoke interest in costume, as if kinetic art reveals the various aspects that transcend the closed area of fine art upon the motif of 'movement'. finally, as this paper deals with the ex-pression of movement as shown in the costume design which prevailed after 1988, it is desir-able hereafter to study more about the fashion since 1950 when kinetic art began in earnest, along with the comparative study on the ex-pression of movement in our Korean designer's and foreign designer's works.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.131-142
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• 1998

20세기 초반기에 왕성한 작품활동을 하여왔던 구수타브 클림트는 새로운 시대에 걸맞는 새로운 정신을 발휘하여 새로운 조형성을 추구하며 총체적인 개념으로 작품활동을 전개하였다. 클림트는 그의 작품을 통해 심미적인 요소를 추구하고자 하였으며 인간을 대우주안의 소우주로서 표출하였고, 우주만물의 생성과 죽음의 과정을 여성을 매개체로 표현하였다. 클림트의 패턴은 원, 삼각형, 그리고 나선형으로 나타난다. 원은 우주, 여성을 상징하고, 삼각형은 인간을 상징하며, 사각형은 지구와 남성을 상징한다. 나선형은 돌고 도는, 끌고 당기는 우주의 힘을 상징한다. 클림트는 음과 양, 곡선과 직선, 난색과 한색의 대비를 통하여 그의 상징성을 더욱 강화시켰다. 패턴과 색상의 사용법을 통하여 그의 우주관을 상징적으로 표현하였던 클림트의 작품은 이차원적인 성격을 매우 강하게 나타낸다. 상징성을 표출하기 위하여 장식적인 패턴의 정교함을 보여주었던 클림트의 작품은 패턴디자인에 자주 응용되어 오고 있다. 그의 작품은 홈 퍼니싱 용도와 어패럴 용도의 텍 스타일 디자인으로 응용되어 왔으며, 스테인드 글래스와 타일로 제작되어 실내를 장식하며 포스터나 악세사리 용품에 응용되어 대중들의 삶에 깊이 침투되어 왔다. 이러한 디자인들은 클림트의 패턴들의 특성을 살리면서 각 디자인용도에 부합되게 레이아웃과 기법을 달리하는 방법에서부터 클림트의 작품을 전반적으로 소화시켜 그 느낌을 간결히 추상화하여 표출하는 방법에 이르기까지 클림트의 작품이 다양하게 해석되어 응용되어 오고 있다. 본 논문은 클림트 작품에 나타난 패턴들을 연구함으로 패턴디자인의 새로운 창의적인 방향을 제시하고자 한다.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.25-42
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• 2005

Costume is a formative art expressed by active human unlike the field of other living formativeness, and an expression of social actions based on a style of culture in a period. Therefore, costume has a deep connection with a mode of living and is recognized as a 'culture for living', and is more characteristic culture than all metaphysical cultures including architecture, craft, painting, and sculpture. Therefore, it expresses wearer's status or social standing, and furthermore, ideas and values of the times with aesthetic features in their form, color, materials, and pattern, so it is expressed as a mirror reflecting the phases of the times as. Korean costume had been dressed until the period of the Joseon Dynasty without a great change and started to be simplified in a simple style on the grounds of inconvenience in behaviors with the opening of an interchange of Western culture in the civilized period. And, this movement had been continued and Korean costume had been applied as an everyday dress under the name of 'Reformed Korean Costume'. Since the middle phase of 1980s, it aroused many people's interests with the introduction of designs focused on activity and convenience. In 1990's, many people had taken a growing interest in Korean costume with development of various designs keeping pace with the internationalization period and Korean Costume had been revitalized under the name of 'The Modernized Korean Costume'. And, since the 21st century, the advanced communication and full-scaled import of Western fashion have made the introduction of many fashion information in the world into Korea, affected greatly the fashion market, led consumers' sensitivity on a trend to be increased. Therefore, a design accepting a trend 'The Modernized Korean Costume' with fashions has risen. Second, this study is an attempt to suggest a revitalization method of domestic casual Korean costume brands by developing and suggesting competitive and highly value-added products with connection of practicality, variety, and highly sensitive fashion styles. For theoretical study, domestic and foreign literatures, academic journals, professional monthly magazines, and newspapers were examined. And, a process of change and features of the Korean fashion since the civilization period, and concept, features and images of casual Korean costume were analyzed, On the basis of analyzing image, features, and consumers' preference of the modernized Korean costume, a design development plan was established and 10 suits of costume were designed and made.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.111-125
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• 2022

Recently, the MZ generation has been leading overall fashion trends, and fashion companies focus on design, marketing, and new products targeting the MZ generation. However, it is expected that a fit problem may occur if the M and Z generations are combined when producing clothing. Therefore, this study aims to analyze the differences between the two groups by comparing the body size according to the classification of the M and Z generations. In addition, this study analyzes whether the body shape of the MZ generation is different from the past generations and analyzes major changes in body size for clothing manufacturing through graphical visualization. As for the research method, a t-test was conducted to verify the significant difference between the measurements for each age group. Generation M was defined as those who are 27-39 years old, and Generation Z was defined as those who are 20-26 years old. In order to examine the changes in body measurements according to the measurement year, the 7th Size Korea and 8th Size Korea data were analyzed. In order to examine the visual changes according to the measurement year and age group, major measurements of clothing construction were analyzed. As a result, it was found that Generation M had a significantly higher height item than Generation Z. Also, in terms of circumference, width, and thickness, Generation M was larger than Generation Z. But the size of the bra cup was larger in Generation Z than Generation M. As a result of analyzing the body size changes, in the height item, the 8th Size Korea measurements were found to be significantly higher in shoulder height and navel level waist height. In the length and circumference items, the 8th Size Korea measurements were larger than the 7th. In the width, thickness, and other items, the 8th measurements were larger than the 7th.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.853-863
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• 2000

This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as follows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio-Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing related study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.

• 복식
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.23-36
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• 2004

The knitting, which has developed from the onset of human civilization, has a close relation to dwelling as well as to clothing itself. Its progress has taken shape in a variety of forms according to nature-friendly tools and its knit texture in the past is different from that of modern times. With this basic idea, the work aims at the further study of various knitting structure which triggered the origin of modern techniques, the establishment of those methods, and the finding of what means was utilized earlier based on these. By doing that, this study will provide the foundation in the Korean historical timeframe in knitting field and give definition to knit wear in a historical sense. As to definition, the outcome in the research boils down to two categories. broad meaning and narrow meaning. The former can be the hook-formed textile, referring to making, twisting, or binding the knots. On the other hands, the latter, that is, narrow type, can be the loop-linked fabric which can be defined as modern knitting. The knitting dates back to the ancient way of binding structure, combining structure in other words, and braiding structure and this kept dividing into subgroups like Netting. Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet as the usage of hands and tools by mankind has got improved. And it changed into knitting and crochet which means a bamboo needle-hook knitting (larger needle type) and a crochet-hook knitting (smaller needle type), respectively through middle ages and modern times and settled down to the production of fabric. In this work, Netting, Nalbinding, Sprang and Crochet are classified as ancient category in which these originate the modern knitting method. Though the modern type of knitting is not found in the Joseon Dynasty, some various methods from the ancient twisting skill and binding skill where the materials with easy access to acquisition in the nature such as rattan, straw, horsehair, hemp, rush, cotton, silk and the like to Netting, Nalbinding and Sprang except Crochet were handed down and used in costume for diverse application. This work can provide the basic frame in terms of Korean history of knitting which has been excluded in the relevant researches until now. When applying the study, it would trigger the initiation of more versatile design with which the previous unique techniques along with modern techniques can be adopted in the clothing market as knit designs gain in public favor more and more.

• 감성과학
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.351-362
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• 2013

본 연구는 세계 최대 소비시장으로 성장하고 있는 중국 소비자의 G감성 유형별 특징을 알아보고, 감성별 소비형태 및 선호 컬러를 분석하여 중국시장을 위한 기초자료로 제공하는데 목적이 있다. 조사를 위해 중국 4개 도시의 소비자를 대상으로 G감성 및 소비 형태에 대한 설문을 실시하였다. G감성유형을 분류한 결과 중국 소비자는 자신의 가치관과 정체성에 따라 행동하며, 합리적이고 논리적인 소비를 추구하는 G1유형이 가장 많이 나타났으며, 선행연구의 한국소비자에서 가장 많이 나타난 G3유형과는 다른 시장 성격을 나타냈다. 소비의 특성으로 중국소비자는 백화점에서 의류 구입을 선호하고 있으며, G2유형의 경우 백화점 다음으로 로드샵을 선호하고 있어 G감성에서 제시한 행동범위가 넓고 소비가 많은 행동파의 유형특성과 일치하고 있다. 중국소비자는 의복구매 시개인이 선호하는 컬러를 우선 구입하고 있으며, 무채색의 선호 비중이 매우 높게 나타났다. 무채색에서 검정의 비율이 가장 높았으며, 백색, 짙은 회색, 옅은 회색의 순으로 조사되었다. 유채색에서는 브라운, 오렌지, 빨강, 파랑의 순으로 나타났으며, G4유형의 경우 다른 유형에 비하여 다양한 색채 선호를 보였다. 이러한 결과는 패션디자인과 기업의 마케팅전략 기초자료로 활용 할 수 있으며, 소비자를 위한 새로운 커뮤니케이션 방법으로 활용할 수 있다.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.54-60
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• 2018

'디테일의 거장'이라고 불리는 이탈리아 디자이너 카를로 스카르파(Carlo Scarpa)는 당시 시대적 조류였던 모더니즘의 한계를 넘어 지역성과 역사성이 담긴 감성적이고 시적인 정원을 창조한 예술가로 평가받는다. 본 연구는 스카르파 정원작품 속 디테일의 표현기법, 재료사용, 상징성을 분석함으로써 그의 디자인 철학 및 접근방법, 현대 정원설계에 있어서의 시사점을 도출하고자 하였다. 문헌고찰 및 현장조사 방법을 통해 베니스 및 인근지역에 위치한 스카르파 정원 및 공원의 디테일을 분석한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 스카르파는 재료의 물성에 대한 깊은 이해를 바탕으로 다양한 재료의 병치, 대비, 혼합을 통해 전통과 현대가 조화된 풍부하고 흥미로운 정원공간을 연출하였다. 둘째, 재료의 연결과 병치에 있어서도 유리세공과 같은 수공예적인 기법이나 덧대기 등의 텍스타일 디자인 방법을 적용하여 섬세하고 세련된 정원 디테일을 구성하였다. 셋째, 지그라트 모티브나 기하학 등 자신만의 독특한 조형언어를 통해 단조롭고 삭막해 보일 수 있는 모더니즘 정원에 풍부하고 화려한 장식성을 부여하였으며, 물, 지형, 식재 등의 자연적 소재들을 통해 장소, 역사, 문화, 인간의 삶을 상징적으로 표현하였다. 공예가적인 장인정신을 바탕으로 섬세한 재료이용과 디테일을 통해 서술적이고 시적인 정원을 설계한 스카르파의 모더니즘 정원은 오늘날 전통재료 및 문화의 현대적 재해석 방법에 있어 많은 시사점을 준다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 16호
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• pp.137-146
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• 1996

본 연구는 개인의 성격특성에 따라 색상, 명도, 채도별로 색채 선호도에 어떠한 차이가 있는지를 규명하기 위한 것이다. 의류 학 및 의상디자인 전공한 여대생을 대상으로 설문지법으로 자료를 수집하였다. 연구결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 성격특성은 여러 가지 도구를 조사하여 요인 분석한 결과, 요인 1: 내성적, 요인 2: 성취감, 요인 3: 공격성, 요인 4: 보수성의 4가지 요인이 도출되었다. 성격특성 변인에 따른 색상 기호 도를 분석한 결과, 내성적 성격을 지닌 사람은 겨울 색, 가을 색을 좋아하였으며, 여름 색과 봄 색을 싫어하였다. 성취감과 공격성 성격은 겨울, 가을 순 으로 기호도가 나타났으며, 봄 색을 아주 조금 싫어하는 것으로 나타났다. 보수성을 지닌 성격은 겨울, 가을, 봄, 여름 색 순 으로 기호도가 나타났다. 성격특성 변인에 따른 명도 기호 도를 분석한 결과, 내성적 성격은 저 명도를 좋아하고 중 명도, 고명도 순 으로 조금 싫어하였다. 성취감과 공격성 성격은 저 명도를 좋아하고 고 명도를 조금 싫어하였으며, 중 명도는 그저 그렇다고 나타났다. 보수성 성격은 저 명도를 아주 좋아하고 고 명도를 조금 좋아하고 중 명도는 조금 싫어하는 것으로 나타났다. 성격특성 변인에 따른 채도 기호 도를 분석한 결과, 내성적 성격은 저 채도를 좋아하였으며, 중채도, 고 채도의 순 으로 싫어하는 것으로 나타났다. 성취감, 공격성, 보수성을 지닌 성격은 저채도를 가장 좋아하며 다음으로 고 채도를 좋아하였고 중 채도를 싫어하는 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.3-14
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• 1994

This study is intended to identify the clothing mage as clothing form and dot space variation. This study consists of pre-experiment for setting the space between dot which shows the difference of the image and main experiment and also is made of factorial design for two variables-clothing form(H-line, A-line, V-line, X-line) dot (dot 1.0, dot 2.2, dot 3.4, dot 5.8) Qestionaire consists of 21 semantic differential scale expressing clothing form and .dot. Data is obtained from 50 female students maforing clothing and textile. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The image by the clothing form and the space dot variation is composed 5 factors' attention, activity, attraction, maturity, boldness. 2) The image by variation in clothing form dot has significant differences in attractive and attention factors, especially shows remarkable differences in attention. By choosing narrow space dot for attentive image, broden space dot for attractive image, you would be able to create the image you want. 3) The image by variation in dot clothing form has almost signific and differences in all factors, especially shows remarkable differences in activity. By choosing A-line for active image, V-line for mature and fashionable image, X-line for attractive, pretty and delicate mage, you would be able to create the image you want. 4) The interaction effect between clothing form and space dot was in attraction and maturity factor, V-line, X-line, dot 3.4 and dot 5.8 intensify attractive image, V-line and dot 1.0 mature image, X-line and dot 5.8 young image.