• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.193-210
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• 2024

The portrait featuring Jo Ban(1341-1401), a scholar-official from the late Goryeo and early Joseon period, and his wife is the oldest surviving couple portrait in Korea. It is of great value in uncovering the clothing culture of the period given the limited number of historical artifacts and records. This study examines the historical clothing and textile patterns of Jo Ban's wife and reproduces them using 3D fashion design software program CLO. She wears jokduri, chima, and baeja over layers of jeogori, a mixture of traditional Korean and Chinese styles. Her clothing illustrates eight patterns-one flower, five geometric, and two cloud. Records and relics of similar periods show that flower and geometric patterns in her clothing follow the prevailing styles of Goryeo, while the cloud patterns are representative of early Joseon. These details are used to reproduce six different styles of Jo Ban's wife with CLO tools. Various visualizations of textile patterns are applied to materials, generating a more realistic look than her existing 3D character created with the portrait. Results of this study are expected to help promote the use of Goryeo clothing and patterns in numerous designs and enhance intuitive understanding of Goryeo clothing based on 3D visualization.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.81-96
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• 2019

The study intends to seek the creative ideas that can satisfy the needs of individual consumers by rediscovering the modern meaning and the artistic value of geometric ornaments engraved on the backside of Danyugyung, which is a traditional Korean pattern. In terms of the study method, the symbolic meaning and formative characteristics of Danyugyung were determined, and the form of its pattern and the geometric characteristics were analyzed. Based on this, Photoshop and illustrations were used to apply the shapes of Danyugyung and internal patterns to the textile designs, and the results are as follows. Firstly, it was found that Danyugyung was associated with the bronze mirror, which was used from the Bronze Age to the Early Iron Age, and was the product of artistic activities and an object and acted as a shamanistic and authoritative symbol of the ruling parties, which were responsible for the acts related to the spiritual world. Secondly, it was discovered that forms of Danyugyung were classified into Jomungyung and Semungyung in accordance with Forms of Danyugyung (造飾), and the formative features of the geometric ornaments that were engraved in great detail on the backside could be found in the images which change according to the form of the inner patterns. Thirdly, with regard to the development of the textile designs utilizing the shape and inner patterns of Danyugyung based on the formative features, it was could discover that the simple shape of Danyugyung presented a value which can be applied as a unique design factor delivering a visual rhythm by attempting to create various harmonies overlapping lines engraved on the inner patterns and the shapes of Danyugyung. Based on the above-mentioned outcomes, the possibility was confirmed that Danyugyung can be used as a novel motif and as a standard unit of patterns for textile design. With future studies, I would like to utilize the unique and diverse images as pattern motif for textile design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.689-707
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• 2018

This study reviewed the differences among Onggis made in Jeju and other areas, developed creative textile designs and cultural products, and conducted the consumer evaluation of developed products. First, the 1,063 photos of Onggis made before the first part of the 20th century were collected and the unique differences of Jeju Onggis were confirmed through the observation of collected photos. Second, based on the uniqueness of Jeju Onggis, the eight pieces of Jeju Onggis were selected from the photos and used as pattern design motifs. Nine basic patterns were drawn and ten textile designs were created using the basic patterns. Third, the 16 pieces of textile products were made with cotton fabrics on which the textile designs were printed. Four mugs and four tumblers with printed patterns were also made. Finally, 64 students evaluated the developed products using a 7-point scale. As a result, folksy atmosphere, uniqueness, usage as a Jeju souvenir and at local restaurants, and the role of fostering concern for Jeju Onggi were highly evaluated but aesthetics was rated relatively low. Most of the developed products were highly preferred and recommended as Jeju souvenirs or for local restaurants.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the differences in color, pattern, and texture of functional materials of outdoor clothing according to new senior women's psychological comfort. The data were collected from 163 female respondents aged 55-64 living in Busan. The results of the study are as follows. First, both the high and low psychological comfort groups preferred soft material the most. The high psychological comfort group particularly preferred soft textures and highly evaluated textured material in general. Second, both groups mostly preferred plain patterns while the high psychological comfort group preferred the dot pattern more. Third, in terms of colors, the high psychological comfort group preferred navy and purple, while the low psychological comfort group preferred brown. As to achromatic colors, both groups preferred black the most with the high psychological comfort group preferred gray and white more than the other group. Fourth, the high psychological comfort group preferred colors and patterns of clothing that made one look the most slimming, while the low psychological comfort group strongly preferred colors and patterns of clothes. Therefore, our results suggest that new senior women have a strong interest in outdoor clothing, not only in terms of textile functions, but also having interest in textile designs. In particular, the new silver women value psychological comfort in colors more than patterns of textile design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.72-81
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop geometric patterns which can be reinterpreted in a modern sense and textile designs which can be commercialized in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb. Of 42 tombs where genres and portraits could be observed, the costume style of Goguryeo dynasty could be mainly observed in the tombs built in the 4th and 5th centuries. Since geometric patterns found in the portrait could be represented in a modern sense, this study was intended to develop the patterns of a necktie which is one of cultural products by applying geometric patterns in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb in the 5th century with many patterns distributed. The scope of patterns was limited to a square, a triangle, a circle, and a diagonal line which were the basic of geometric patterns found in the mural painting. The methods of study were literature review and empirical study. Adobe Photoshop CS3 was used to edit geometric patterns found in the mural painting of Goguryeo Dynasty's tomb in the 5th century. By extracting a square(${\square}$), a triangle(${\vartriangle}$), a circle(${\bigcirc}$), and a diagonal line(${\diagdown}$) from edited images, predicted images were proposed before products were made. Finally textile designs were made through the simulation of edited design patterns in the necktie and handkerchief. This study will contribute to the positive effects on the development of cultural product designs applying the characteristic of geometric patterns and the construction of Korean image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.49-61
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• 2012

This study focuses on looking at the influence of silhouette in the 1930s on fabric pattern design by comprehending how differently flower-pattern design were found according to clothing silhouette. The period scope of research was limited to 1930s, and the research object was set as the flower patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion and the women's daily apparel as well as the clothes for sports and leisure activities. Based on the above research scope, the researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1930s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. A glance at the women's clothing in the 1930s reveals that they emphasized something inactive, elegant, feminine and that great popularity was given to feminine silhouette that closely fitted the body and long and slim, as skirts became longer and longer. Like this, silhouette refused traditional methods in the technique of expressing flower patterns that were on-trend in that period, pursued the freedom of line and form, used shadowing technique by means of free pens and brushes and the effect of watercolors. It also arranged in a semitransparent way and painted contours alone, too. Flower patterns fell into two categories: amorphous abstract patterns and standardized abstract patterns. The patterns expressed themselves, divided into small-scale irregular patterns and abstract geometric patterns that filled the entire textile.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.133-147
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• 2006

This paper deals with utilization of traditional Indian textile design found in 21st century fashion. It examines the decoration of the traditional Indian textile design which inspires and widely adopted in the modern fashion design, and the immanent meaning of the traditional pattern. This paper also analyzes the trend of its utilization in the modern fashion design. In order to examine variety of Indian textile design and its modernization, the Indian ethnic dresses found in 21st century western designer collections were compared with the Indian traditional textile design adopted by Indian fashion designers. The result of the study shows followings : Firstly, the typical traditional decoration in Indian textile design contains plangi, chintz, ikat, roghan and embroidery (mirror-work), and the traditional Indian patterns are roughly divided into natural pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern and geometric pattern. Secondly, comparison of 203 fashion items of world top 4 collections with 422 fashion items of Indian designer's collections shows that the paisley pattern obtains the majority in western design collections, while the geometric pattern in Indian designer collections. Thirdly, the comparison and analysis of the 21st century western fashion design shows that the traditional Indian textile design is mostly used in the seasonal trend color or is mixed & matched with other patterns. You can also find the feeling of the traditional Indian patterns in some western collections. In Indian designer collections, on the other hand, the traditional Indian patterns are widely used in the manner that they maintain the traditional feeling, while they are reconstructed in modern style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.908-922
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily Hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 3 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using lotus flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, three woman's daily Hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily Hanboks were consisted of Durumagi, one-piece dress, and one set of jacket and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.1 s.12
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• pp.87-96
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• 2007

Patterns have their own shapes and characteristics as a symbol in accordance with in what environment they are like a language. Especially our ancestor had wished present values as like riches and honors, longevity and health, love and happiness through all kinds of patterns of animals, plants, the sun, the moon, cloud, water and mountain, and expressed an aesthetic consciousness. Pattern design is important in fashion but it is insufficient in terms of the development of modern patterns based on Korean traditional patterns. Therefore, We need to create new senses and thoughts through the understanding and re-analysis about Korean traditional costume and a study on optical patterns could give an extreme effect without any changes of silhouette. Especially, Emilio Pucci and Missoni have been developing a variety of Pattern designs even though there are different tendencies each other. Consequently it could be a good chance to show Korean images and originality that develope the various textile patterns with applying to Korean traditional patterns based on an analysis of their works.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.67-78
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• 2012

This study considered and analyzed the influence of changed clothing silhouettes on the textile patterns by investigating the changes of geometry patterns in response to the changes of western women's apparel silhouette in the 1960s. The period scope of research was limited to the 1960s, and the research object was set as the geometry patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion. The researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1960s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. For the western women's apparel in 1960s, some active, simple styles were popular under the social atmosphere when more women actively entered the society. Influenced by popular art trends at that time, the silhouette was expressed in the geometry pattern among many textile patterns. The geometry pattern either appeared as a regularly overall repeating geometry pattern and the regularly partial repeating geometry pattern. The regularly overall repeating geometry pattern arranged the straight lines in the same interval. But the regularly partial repeating geometry pattern was arranged without order to emphasize the motif in some parts of clothing or to give some ornament effect, or was arranged asymmetrically.