• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.364-370
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• 2008

This research aims to recognize necessity of modern expression of traditional pattern, understand the matter which is expressed when developing design using traditional pattern, and find the solutions. As the solutions, this research presents design of traditional pattern using symmetry concept and works on the possibility of symmetry as the pattern design. So this research carried out in-depth interview to textile designer working at Gyeongsangnam-do, analyzed the substances. The main results are as follows. First, the presented problems of developing common pattern design and designing using traditional pattern show the necessities for adequate harmony among conception of creative idea, traditional pattern and present pattern. As the solution, the efficient design principles are required. Second, the seven traditional figures can present design applying symmetry, also draw the 8 mapping models for the visuality and utilization. Third, the symmetry-applied traditional pattern design makes it possible for the traditional figure to be represented with the creative and modern sense and provides easier way to the design development by complementing the pattern design formation. As the result, symmetry-utilized traditional pattern design improvement shows the expectation that it will increase the design development ability and ease the figure drawing. In addition, the pattern development which can be applied to any figure presents the time efficiency as well as possibility of the high added value textile industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.17-31
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• 2003

$Premi\grave{e}re$ Vision is a leading textile collection held since 1973. In this study, textiles for 2004/05 F/W season in $Premi\grave{e}re$ Vision were analyzed at the various point of view, such as general trend, sub-theme, fiber content, color trend, structure, yarn trend, pattern, texture, decoration, finishing and other technical treatment, and functionality. There were three general trends; natural/ecology, geometry, and combination. Natural color and texture were widely used over the fabric exhibited, and irregularities expressed the natural trend of textiles. Geometric patterns were used for knit as well as for woven. Geometry expressed by various methods such as weaving, knitting, printing, shearing, embossing, and etc. However, geometry shown in this season was not a clear form expressed by weaving, but a blurry, irregular form expressed by various other methods such as knitting. The combination among heterogeneous fibers, yarns, colors, images, and textures was usual, however, the harmony among them was accomplished.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.85-97
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• 1985

The purpose of this study is to develop a new method for the visual presentation of weaves and woven patterns of dobby fabrics by using the personal computer briefly. The following results were given through adapting this method to the design for patterns of woven fabrics. 1. Complete weaves were given by computerizing the pegging plan and drafting system. 2. The effect of the combined woven patterns were given by computerizing the one complete weaves, the differently coloured warp threads, and the differently coloured weft threads.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.705-714
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• 2010

This study has the purpose of classifying the types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in relevant monthly magazines and analyzing the characteristics of the techniques. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are classified into single and composite types according to decorative components. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, gold and silver foils and embroideries, embroideries and seonchigi or embroideries and stitches is usually used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. More notably, Korean traditional costumes for women shown in monthly magazines released during the period as mentioned above were investigated to find that a part of the women's clothes, that is, skirt was in most cases decorated with brilliant embroideries. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have brilliant patterns on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Consequently, since 2010, flower motive patterns which are important in modern fashion trend will be used in embroideries, gold and silver foils. Additionally, embroideries such as seakdong, applique, drawing made with modern style will be the main stream of new HanBok style.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.635-645
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• 2017

The industry of character toys is increasing and new characters are constantly being developed. However, the development of 2D cover patterns for toys is time-consuming due to frequent pattern modifications made through trial and error. Studies are now underway to obtain 2D clothing patterns from 3D body data, however, little research has been done on 2D pattern of character toys. This study suggests efficient guidelines to develop 2D cover patterns with a reasonable accuracy and processing time. Two 3D models of a dog and rabbit were used to develop 2D cover patterns. Independent variables of this study are set as 3 levels of triangle area (small, medium, and large) that influence the efficacy of 3D and 2D pattern development. The determination of the appropriate triangular area was based on the area and shape change of the 2D pattern. A medium or large triangle area was shown to be suitable for a character dog with a smooth curved surface. However, the appropriate triangle area was small if the characteristics of the curved surface are complicated as in the case of rabbit. The head of a dog (a double-curved surface) and the curved forepaw of a rabbit (a triangular area) should be small when the characteristics of the curved surface (such as the hind leg of a rabbit having a large convex surface and a small surface area) are complicated. Grouping by 3D surface characteristics could be a suitable guideline for the triangle area selection.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.410-421
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• 2018

The study is designed to develop a educational basic pants patterns for men, and has been analyzed focusing on the university textbooks published since 2000. We also used CAD programs and virtual fitting programs to analyze the fitness of pants. To do this purpose, after choosing 7 Men's Wear textbooks, selected patterns were drawn and measured using PAD system and were compared and analyzed. Also, the appearance evaluation was examined through virtual fitting and then evaluated 21 male and female university students in their 20s. After supplementing the problems of the patterns in the existing textbooks, a pattern was developed and verified the fitness of the developed pattern. The results of comparing the proposed measurement items of each textbook for the pants pattern indicated a significant differences in terms of hip circumference of each pattern, which were between 96~105cm. A comparison of the drafting methods of each pattern showed the drafting methods for the crotch length, the front crotch extension, the back crotch extension were the difference. The results of appearance evaluation were pattern E presented the slimmest fit and pattern D presented the loosest fit. As a result of analysis of pants pattern, a waist circumference 82cm, a hip circumference 98cm, a crotch length 24cm, a pants length 104cm and a ham line width 46cm were most suitable. The development pattern was evaluated as superior to the existing pattern through the appearance evaluation of the virtual fitting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.871-880
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• 2015

Buddhist culture had a significant impact on the entire mode of Korean living after the introduction of Buddhism to Korea in the Three Kingdom Period. Baekje embraced Buddhism in 384 A.D.; subsequently, diverse artifacts have now been excavated from the temples. Various research on Korean temples are now in progress; however there is inadequate research on the relics and patterns excavated from the temples due to the focus on the temples’ architectural form. There is limited research on the development of fashion cultural products that use relics excavated from the temples. This study develops designs for fashion cultural products using Baekje Sabi Period relics; specifically, the sari container excavated from Buyeo’s Wangheungsaji, Neungsanrisaji, and Iksan’s Mireuksaji. The sari container’s original form, patterns, and writing were developed into patterns and applied to fashion products such as t-shirts, bags and scarves. Traditional multicolored paintwork exhibited on the temples, ‘dancheong’, was selected as the color for products that can symbolically express the nature of their origin. Adobe Illustrator CC and Adobe Photoshop CC were used to extract the motifs and develop the designs. Six patterns and nine fashion products were designed, accounting for a total of fifteen developed items. We hope that the fashion cultural product design expresses the distinct characteristics of Baekje’s Sabi Period and can be applied to various products and related fields.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine the types of and figurative characteristics of in women's embroidered handicrafts of Korea. It also aims to revive Korean traditional beauty, to examine the applicability of Korean traditional design that has both modern beauty and practicality, and to develop Korean women's embroidered handicrafts. The types of women's embroidered of Korea include Jumoni (pouches), Bojagi (wrapping cloths), and other accessories made by sewing. Jumoni consisting of 55.51% of them was the most frequently used handicraft followed by Bojagi (8.66%), and other accessories (35.83%). In terms of the patterns used, animal pattern and plant pattern were used the most frequently. In addition, complex patterns using two or three patterns together(70.49) were more frequent than singular patterns (29.53%). Pictorial type of pattern arrangement (58.24%) was used the most frequently and dense type (39.76%) and sparse type (2.00%) were followed. In terms of the materials on which embroidery was used, Dahn (85.82%) was used the most frequently followed by wool (5.67%), cotton (4.26%), silk (3.55%), and Sa (0.70%). Various techniques of stitches were used such as outline stitch (40.56%), satin and running stitch (29.32%), French nut stitch (28.11%), long and short stitch (21.28%), double leaf stitch (20.88%), and so on. Among them, satin stitch (63.05%) was the most popular type of stitch techniques. Strings (23.56%), maedeup (Korean traditional knots, 8.62%), or tassels (9.77%) were also attached for the purpose of both practicality and of decoration. There were some cases that added cloissone or red-pepper shaped decorations.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.399-403
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• 2004

Education of clothing and textiles in the university is various according to the purposes. Among that clothing construction and practice is what is needed the most in understanding the process of apparel producing, and is the basic subject of areas from apparel designs to quality management. Producing apparel starts from planning the bodice pattern according to the human body shape. Basic bodice pattern should be highly practical so that production of all items of apparel patterns can be possible. Also, a basic bodice pattern needs to be planned in the way that even beginners can use it by classifying sizes according to each body measurements. Thus in this study. bodice patterns will be produced in way of draping method subjecting university students in early 20s. standardized and classified sizes will be calculated from it and bodice pattern made by studied flat pattern method will be examined and compared so that finally suitability will be compared. As a result of examining and comparing bodice patterns made by draping method and studied flat pattern method on the model of the human body produced by plaster method, sizes were classified into 5 levels. As a result of evaluation of creation. satisfying consequence from various body shape was acquired and it is expected of the beginners who are stating from clothing construction and practice to be educated by using the result of this study.