• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.557-566
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• 2022

This study aims to investigate Jinju silk companies, production items, and silk industry supporting projects from 2019 to 2021 in order to discuss the current status of the silk industry. The following are this study's methods: First, a list of Jinju silk companies that have been operating for the past three years (2019-2021) was prepared to investigate the current status of the Jinju silk industry. Second, an investigation was conducted into the representative products produced in Jinju over the past three years; this investigation was conducted using direct interview. Third, an investigation was conducted on the projects that supported the Jinju silk industry over the past three years, and the list of members of the Gyeongnam Textile and Jinju Silk Industry Cooperative Association-a facility of Gyeongsangnam-do Province, the Jinju City Hall brochure (2019), and the SMINFO(SMall business status INFOrmation System) were utilized for this purpose. The following are the results: First, Jinju silk companies are classified into four categories, namely weaving, dyeing, twisting, and designing companies. According to data from 2021, 83% (34 of 41) of silk companies were weavers. Second, the demand for solid fabrics has increased over the past three years. The demand for patterned jacquard fabrics in producing Hanbok and Western-style clothing has decreased. Third, support for the Jinju silk industry could be classified into five categories: support for the operation of silk research institutions, support for the diversification of Jinju silk, support for the promotion of Jinju silk, support for the operation of silk manufacturers, and others.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.124-132
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of silk fabric on gromwell roof colorants were studied for the effect of dyeing conditions, such as methanol ratio, colorants concentration, pH, temperature and time etc. on the dye uptake and effect of mordants and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptake. And various colorfastnesses of dyed fabrics were evaluated far practical use. Gromwell colorants showed high affinity to silk and its isotherm adsorption curve was Freundlich type close to Nernst type. Therefore, it is considered that hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals force were involved in the adsorption of cromwell colorants to silk fabric. Post-mordanting method gave higher K/S value than other methods, but it was not significantly different color values from unmordanted one. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed fabrics showed high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased for repeatedly dyed and Fe mordanted dyed fabrics.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.113-119
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• 2005

In our previous study, the color development characteristics in the dyeing of silk fibers and PET fibers using Rhusjara ica and related properties were meticulously reviewed. At the same time, the fabric specimens were endowed with chitosan treatment prior to the dyeing procedure in order to investigate the effect of chitosan on the dyeing behavior. The analysis of the colors only, however, would not give us complete elucidation of the effect of fiber characteristics and the mordanting characteristics. In this study, the effect of chitosan and metal mordant treatment in dyeing of silk and PET fabrics using Rhusjara ica has been studied. The change of air-permeability, wash fastness, and light fastness were also investigated.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.57-66
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• 2005

In natural dyeing, a number of supplementary methods have been practiced since deep shades of the dyed fabrics are not developed satisfactorily. The methods include using the mordants effectively or subjecting the fabrics to reiterated dyeing processes. In this study, we obtained deep shades in the dyeing of fabrics using Rhusjara ica as the dyestuff and applied chitosan to the fabric specimens in order to diversify the colors. Silk fibers and PET(polyethylene terephthalate) fibers were pretreated using chitosan, and subsequently dyed using different types of mordants. As the mordanting agents, Al, Sn, and Fe were employed. Various shades have been resulted in since the interactions of the mordants are different toward the silk fibers and PET fibers. In this study, we investigated the effect of the chitosan treatment along with the change of the mordanting agents on the color change for the silk and PET fibers.

• 복식
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.164-172
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• 2008

Soochonri tombs are assumed to be of the Baekje Kingdom in the early 5th century. We have examined 12 artifacts and 24 textiles in the four tombs. Along with hemp textiles, silk and embroidery threads were found In the Soochonri tombs. Within the hemp textiles both hemp and ramie were made using s-twist threads and the thread count distribution is calculated to be $8.5{\sim}15.5/cm^2$. Taffeta, one of the silk, can be categorized in to four types. First, the plain woven silk was made with warp and weft of the same thickness. The rates of thread count are also similar. Secondly the warp and weft are of the same thickness but has more spaces between threads. Third, the type of warp and weft is different in thickness, the thicker thread woven in the same direction. Lastly, a textile was woven with spaces the same as the width of the reed mark in every two warps. There were five compound weave found. Among them one was made with non-twisted thread for warp and s-twist thread for weft. One plain braiding with apparent spaces between threads were found. All three of the twining were made with wefts thicker than warps, barely showing the warps as a result. Textiles of the Soochonri tombs are the oldest of the Baekje Kingdom studied by far and therefore important artifacts of the Baekje Kingdom. These textiles are similar to those found in the King Muryeong's Tomb and tombs of Gaya and Shilla.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.181-191
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• 2011

This study examines the effects of Evening primrose on colors, color fastness, and the antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics. The results are as follows. The dyeing conditions of Evening primrose on cotton and mercerized cotton were optimized at $50^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes, and 200% (o.w.f.). In addition, Evening primrose dyeing on silk was determined at $90^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and 200% (o.w.f.). The pre-mordant concentration of chemicals of cotton, mercerized cotton and silk was optimized at 1% (o.w.f.). The post-mordant concentration on mercerized cotton, silk and cotton was determined at 1% (o.w.f.) and 3% (o.w.f.), respectively. The mordant methods (such as pre-mordant and post-mordant) were slightly affected on the hue of dye-fabrics. Wet cleaning fastness of cotton was improved by post-mordant; otherwise, the wet cleaning fastness of mercerized cotton and silk was improved by a pre-mordant. The dry cleaning fastness of cotton and silk was excellent regardless of mordant methods. The dry cleaning fastness of mercerized cotton was improved by a post-mordant compared to a pre-mordant. The antimicrobial activity of Evening primrose-dyed fabrics was shown at 99.9%. The excellent antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics remained after the mordant as well as wet and dry cleaning.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권9_10호
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• pp.1134-1143
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate surface color change and effects of mordants on the K/S values of silk and wool fabrics dyed with Lac extract, according to the mordanting methods and conditions such as temperature, concentration and time of the mordanting bath. The results were as follow; 1 K/S values of the silk and wool fabrics according to the temperature of the mordanting bath were shown a slight decline beyond 40$^{\circ}C$. 2. Surface color of the silk changed from red to reddish purple and that of the wool showed red tone when mordanted with Aluminum postassium sulfate, Copper acetate and Copper (II) sulfate regardless of the mordanting conditions. 3. The light and dry cleaning fastness of silk and wool fabrics dyed with Lac extract according to the mordanting methods were very good.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.890-898
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• 2014

This study focuses on the effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting conditions, changes of colorfastness, antibacterial properties and UV protective of silk fabric dyed with Laminaria japonica extracts. A natural colorant was extracted from Laminaria japonica using distilled water as extractants. According to the results, maximum dye uptake (K/S) were obtained at 100% V/V colorant concentration, $80^{\circ}C$, 60 min and pH 2. Silk fabric was dyed with Laminaria japonica extract at $80^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with pre-treatment or post-treatment of various metal salts as mordants. The Laminaria japonica extracts produced yellow hue on silk fabric in pre-mordanting and manifested green yellow hue mordanted with $CuSO_4$ in post-mordanting method. Mordant $CuSO_4$ for silk fabric was found to give good light fastness (rating 4). UV protection property did not increase significantly upon mordanting.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

Eco-friendly and health-functional clothing is now becoming the target of the worldwide hot trends. The purpose of this study is to develop an eco-friendly textiles to decrease environmental pollution and to be harmless for human health by investigating how the natural chorangak liquid treatment affects the changes of mechanical properties and the hand of silk fabrics according to different treatment conditions. Treatment was varied with various temperatures ($85^{\circ}C$, $90^{\circ}C$, $95^{\circ}C$) for 90 seconds after degumming. The results were as follows: 1) The natural chorangak liquid is the most effective at the ratio of glacial acid 200ml with eggshell 20g minimizing the time limit and sludge reduction. Its treatment of silk fabrics is optimized at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 seconds with 25% conc. after degumming when considering tenacity and elongation. 2) After the treatment, tenacity and elongation of specimen are increased compared with those of degummed silk fabrics. 3) After analyzing the effect of the treatment on the characteristic values of basic mechanical properties of silk fabrics, mechanical properties (tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface) are overall improved. The properties of thickness and weight are increased as well. 4) Based on the clear analysis on effects of the treatment on the mechanical properties and the hand of silk fabrics, the level of THV was enhanced from good to excellent. Therefore, chorangak liquid can be utilized satisfactorily as a new finishing agent for developing eco-friendly textiles.