• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.877-884
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• 2005

The importance and usefulness of a subjective evaluation of the sensorial properties of scoured silk fabrics is discussed. Silk fabric was treated at 12 different scouring rates and the scoured fabrics were used as specimens. Using paired comparisons, three trained subjects, evaluated seven subjective sensorial properties; softness, elasticity, drape, stiffness, crispness, and luster. A quad experimental design was adopted as an effective and reliable evaluation method. Results showed that some properties such as drape, luster were easily discriminated depending on the scouring rates whereas the smoothness was not easily discriminated. As the scouring rate increased, it was hard to discriminated the softness, drape, and stiffness, which indicates there is an optimum scouring rates to have a certain sensorial properties. It was suggested that these results should be applied to the manufacturing process.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권5호
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• pp.772-778
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• 2006

Silk organza can make the silhouette of clothes bulky and rich, owing to its stiffness. And silk organza in the gum has better dyeability so can be dyed more bright and deeper color than scoured silk because silk organza has sericin gum that has better dyeability than fibroin. So, silk organza came into the most broad use as the material for Hanbok, especially in summer. But the silk organza has poor color fastness. Sericin is removed from organza when silk organza go through scouring. The purpose of this research is to find out the optimum conditions that the scoured silk fabrics can get stiffness by persimmon juice treatment. For experiments, non scoured, partially scoured and fully scoured silk fabrics were prepared by alkali treatments. Then 3 kinds of silk fabrics were treated with the concentration of 1, 5, 10, 50 and 100% of persimmon Juice. The change of fiber surface of the various silk fabrics were observed By SEM. The hand values of those fabric samples also were measured hand values by Kawabata Evaluation System and stiffness by Cantilaver method. By scouring, the silk organza got more flexibility and less cohesiveness between their fibers. And it can be a little more bulky by removing gum. Namely, silk organza lost its unique stiff and crisp handle. By the persimmon juice treatment, tannin component could be coated on the fiber surface. so that the stiffness of the fabrics were improved.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.228-242
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• 2019

This research investigated the effect of mordants on the degradation of madder dye in silk when silk was treated by the H2O2/UV condition as a laboratory simulation of burial induced degradation. Alum, iron, and alum/iron composite mordanting methods were applied to silk before dyeing with madder dye. Dye extracted from silk was examined using HPLC-DAD-MS analysis. The abundance of the chromatogram peak at 8.88 min retention time was used as the concentration of alizarin pigment in silk. K/S values, CIE $L^{\ast}a^{\ast}b^{\ast}$ values; in addition, Munsell HVC values were obtained using a spectrocolorimeter. The findings indicated that alizarin degraded most severely in silk mordanted by alum/iron composite mordanting than alum mordanting or iron mordanting. Mordanting with alum alone provided a relatively lower dye fixation at the point of dyeing; however, it provided a better survival of alizarin after 12 hours of degradation treatment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.517-523
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• 2003

We studied the physical properties of silk fabrics after degumming, the dyeability and the color fastness of silk fabrics after degumming and sericin fixing. As the sericin was removed from silk fabrics, the rate of weight loss increased and both the abrasion resistance and the drape coefficient decreased. This means that the amount of the sericin remained in silk fabrics significantly affects the physical properties of silk fabrics. On the surface and the cross-section of silk fabrics, the silk fibers enclosed by the sericin seemed to be in a lump shape. Each fibroin strand, however, got scattered, as the process of degumming went through. The dyeability of silk fabrics degummed decreased at between 20$^{\circ}C$∼80$^{\circ}C$ the dyeing temperature, on the other hand, it significantly increased over 80$^{\circ}C$. The dyeability of the sericin-fixed silk fabrics was lower than that of the non-serin-fixed silk fabrics, to a little extent. The colorfastness of crocking in the dyed-silk fabrics was a little low and that of the sweat was much lower in a basic sweat. Especially, the colorfastness of the partially degummed silk fabrics was low, because the sericin was not stable in the condition of sweat. Therefore, the process of sericin fixing is essentially required, for the partially degummed silk fabrics and the process of degumming itself.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.866-872
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• 2010

This study investigates the methods of the natural dyeing of silk fabrics with Machilus thunbergii cortex extract. After the dyeing of silk with a Machilus thunbergii cortex extract, the dyeability of the Machilus thunbergii cortex extract was evaluated with the dyeing time, concentration, temperature, the numbers of repeated dyeing, the pH of the dyebath, the changes of the K/S value, and surface colors by the methods of mordanting and color fastness. The effective dyeing conditions with silk fabrics were at a concentration of 120g/L, the dyeing temperature at $80^{\circ}C$, and the dyeing time for one hour ten minutes. The effective number of repeated dyeing was three times. The dyeing operation was carried out in a neutral dyebath of pH 7. The K/S value was higher in most of the pre-mordants (except the Sn mordant) and a high K/S value was shown in the copper pre-mordant. The colors of the silk fabrics with Machilus thunbergii cortex were of various brown shades. The color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant and the colorfastness of all the dyed samples was low; however, the dry cleaning fastness was excellent at the 4-5 grade.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.770-787
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• 2021

This study examines the types of cotton, silk, and woollen products imported from Japan during the port-opening period and explores the characteristics of import trade related to these textile products. Data were obtained from the Japanese trade statistics published by the Japanese government between the late 19^th and the early 20^th centuries. Several key findings were made from these data. First, at least 24 types of cotton fabrics, 13 silk fabrics, and 16 woollen fabrics imported from Japan were identified. Several types of weaves that can be found in the present day were also identified. Second, the total import of textiles during the port-opening period made up 33.7% of the total imports from Japan, indicating that textiles were an important aspect of import trade with Japan. The value of textile imports from Japan tended to increase overall during this time. Cotton fabrics and silk fabrics showed a tendency to increase continuously, while woollen fabrics showed a trend of gradual increase over repeating periods of increase and decrease. It is apparent from examining the ratio of Japanese and foreign products that cotton fabrics, silk fabrics, and woollen fabrics show different characteristics.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.61-90
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• 2021

Recent excavations in Qinghai Province, China, have disclosed textiles and artworks from Tuyuhun-Tubo (Tibetan) tombs, dated to the 7^th-9^th centuries, that suggest artistic and cultural exchanges along an external southern branch of the main Silk Road, between Gansu and Sichuan Provinces, across the Qinghai-Tibetan plateau toward the Himalayas. Many similar textiles, possibly from this area, have appeared lately on the art market and ended in private collections. Although these textiles, dated to the early Tibetan period, follow a popular prototype established in Central Asia in the 6^th century, the technical features, colors, and other indigenous elements suggest that they were woven in workshops different from those established between Sogdiana and Gansu. The exhibition "Cultural Exchange Along the Silk Road - Masterpieces of the Tubo Period," organized by the Dunhuang Research Academy and the Pritzker Collaborative Art between July and October 2019 in Dunhuang, Gansu, was a groundbreaking event that gathered scholarly attention on early Tibetan material culture, but a relevant publication is still forthcoming. In my previous work, I briefly discussed a group of silk textiles, possibly from Qinghai or Sichuan, that I analyzed in 2014 in the China National Silk Museum in Hangzhou, Zhejiang. In light of the recent material excavated, published online, or displayed in Dunhuang, in this article, I reevaluate the data previously collected, and discuss in detail the technical and iconographic features of one of the fragments held in Hangzhou. Eventually, the piece was recognized as the ending part of a large panel, which is now in the Abegg Stiftung in Riggisberg, Switzerland.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2016

Tropical tasar silkworm, Antheraea mylitta is a commercial forest silkworm in India that produces tasar silk, but never experimented in Uttarakhand, a Himalayan state of India. A. mylitta express divergent phenotypic characters under different ecological conditions; so, we studied the effect of seven forest tree species in two rearing seasons on variability in silk gland weight of Daba (bivoltine) ecorace of A. mylitta at Forest Research Institute in Dehra Dun, Uttarakhand during 2012 and 2013. We used two-way completely randomized block factorial design and Post HOC Tukey's HSD test to analyse the collected data and there after carried out multiple regression analysis. Results indicated that silk gland weight differed significantly between rearing seasons (DF=1, F=2333.98, p <0.05), host plants (DF 6, F= 1516.25, p <0.05) and their interactions (DF=6, F=7.10, p <0.05). Higher silk gland weight was found in second rearing season than the first on all the host tree species. Terminalia alata fed A. mylitta larvae showed the highest silk gland weight of 8.03 and 9.47 g in first and second rearing seasons, followed by T. tomentosa (7.19 & 9.01g), T. arjuna (6.8 & 8.08 g) and L. speciosa (6.57 & 7.83 g) fed larvae, respectively. Post HOC Tukey's HSD test indicated that silk gland weight of L. speciosa and T. arjuna fed larvae in both the rearing seasons did not differ significantly. E.I. analysis also confirmed that T. alata, T. tomentosa, T. arjuna and L. speciosa are better in their order of merit than T. bellirica , T. chebula and L. tomentosa. Multiple regression analysis indicates that larval weight gain is a strong predictor (β=1.002, t=346.777, p = <0.05) for the silk gland weight of A. mylitta ; however, larval duration had significant negative regression weight (β=-0.270, t=-8.436, p = <0.05) on mean weight of silk gland.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.91-116
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• 2021

India has had a rich and diverse textile tradition since the 3rd millennium BCE. The origin of Indian textiles can be traced back to the Harappan period. Owing to the hot and humid climate in most parts of India, cotton has remained India's favourite choice of fabric for normal use. Thus, India is supposed to be the first nation to have grown, woven, and patterned cotton fabrics. Moreover, India is one of the leading cotton-growing countries in the world. The earliest occurrence of cotton thread in India is roughly datable to 4000 BCE and of dyed fabrics to about 2500 BCE. Large numbers of needles and spindle-whorls found in Harappa and other early historic sites in India reveal the prosperous state of textile production and its trade in the early period. The textile producers used a wide range of skills to process raw materials and make regionally idiosyncratic dyes, weaves, prints, and embroideries. Additionally, the silk from wild indigenous forms of silkworms was known in the Indian sub-continent roughly contemporary with the earliest clear archaeological evidence for silk in China. The analysis of thread fragments found inside a copper bangle and ornament from Harappa and steatite beads from Chanhu-daro, have yielded silk fibers dating to 2500-2000 BCE. Apart from other products, cotton and silk textiles were important export materials from India right from the Harappan period. Actually, the sea-borne trade had played an important role in the economic growth and prosperity of the Harappan civilization. Several ancient seaports in the entire coastline of India played a vital role in the maritime trade during the Harappan period and cotton and silk textiles of Indian origin have been found in various countries. The contemporary writings and epigraphy have also attested to the vast maritime trade network of India and the export of textile materials. The paper discusses in detail the origin and development of cotton and silk textile production in India through the ages and its role in maritime trade networks.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.557-564
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• 1998

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with black tea colorants were investigated in terms of dye uptakes at various dyeing conditions and the effect of mordants on color change and colorfastness. Black tea colorants showed high affinity to silk and produced brown color. Two types of adsorption isotherm were obtained; Langmuir and Freundlich equilibrium at 360 nm and 460 nm, respectively. Thus, it is considered that both of ionic and hydrogen bondings are involved in silk dyeing with black tea colorants. Dye uptake increased continuously as concentration of colorants increased. Brown color was not changed with mordant type except that Fe mordant produced dark brown color. Mordanting did not influence colorfastness of dyed silk significantly. Therefore, mordanting was not necessary in dyeing silk with black tea colorants.