• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.343-348
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• 2006

This study aims to attain gray tone dyed goods by using tannin that is contained in green tea. Tannin is given general name of polyphenol, which has a characteristic that bonds with protein and it is used for food preservative that protects against bacteria, as well as its purpose of black tone dye for silk treatment that has been processed since its early ages. In particular, as tannin reacts with all kinds of metallic mordant and changes to various colors, when tannin acid is combined with iron, it becomes tannin steel and produces gray tone color. Tannin that is contained in green tea is condensed tannins and its structure does not hydrolyze, thus having flavan type structure. In order to find the suitable condition for processing tannin, UV-Vis part absorption spectrum of green tea tannin, dye ability based on temperature and time, reflection rate based on concentration, color changes based on acid treatment and alkali treatment, changes on surface based on concentration or metal mordant condition, and lightfastness were measured. Maximum absorption wavelength (${\lambda}_{max}$) of green tea tannin was at around 273nm, while strong absorption was also observed at below 350 nm. Dye ability of green tea tannin is done more easily on silk rather than cellulose fibers such as cotton, while the optimum condition for dyeing was observed to be at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 minutes. As a result of acid treatment, the color of dye material consisted highly of gray tones and showed overall gray tone with the combined color of yellow and red after the alkali treatment. While it was observed that as dye concentration and metal mordant concentration increased, the color changed at counter-clockwise direction on the Y-scale of Munsell's scale of colors. Additionally, lightfastness was more on a normal fading.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.67-81
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• 2021

This study aimed to conduct tree-ring dating and analysis of the materials used for the wooden coffins excavated from the ruins of Sipjeong-dong, Incheon. The tree species for the 10 wooden coffin materials was identified as pine. For accurate tree-ring measurement, the cross section was polished using sandpaper. The annual ring width was measured with an accuracy of 0.01 mm. Since the five materials were consistent with each other in dendrochronology, a representative annual ring chronology of 83 years was prepared. The prepared representative annual ring chronology was compared with the standard annual ring chronology, and the outermost ring of the wooden coffin was confirmed to correspond to the year 1575, suggesting that the wooden coffin was produced in the late 16th century. In addition, microscopic observation and FT-IR analysis revealed that the fibers attached to the surface of the wooden coffin were fibroin (Silk), and infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and Py-GC/MS analysis showed that the paint left on the surface of the wooden coffin was lacquer.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.82-90
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• 1999

The buddhistic painting of Song-Kwang temple in Seungjoo-gun, Chonnam, Korea is not known in chronicle, but it could be estimated to works in the early 19th century through it's remaining records and qualities of materials. And it was analysed the qualities of materials consisting of pigment layer, silken-ground layer and support layer in order to preserve buddhistic painting, made back-adherent paper of the support layer proper to it, tested its compatibility, and then concluded as follows. 1. The section structures of buddhistic painting is consisted of the pigment layer, silken-ground layer of silk and the support layer of Korean hand made paper, it could be recognized that buddhistic painting in 19th century was basically composed of the pigment layer, the silken-ground layer and the support layer. Moreover the pigment layer and the silken-ground layer got adhered with glue, and sheets of support layers got back adhered with paste. 2. The support layer of buddhistic painting consisted of 5 layers and two kinds of paper were used for them. The first and second layers were composed of Korean hand made paper made of pure paper mulberry bast fibers, and the rest of them of paper that paper mulberry bast fibers were mixed into recycled hemp fibers. Though it is difficult to assert without the security of more data, finding out the then situation through the qualities of materials, it was presumed that the society in 19th century was suffered from economical difficulties and the operation of the paper industry of temples was rather difficult and so low-qualitative recycled hemp fibers might used for back-adherent paper. 3. Considering tension between silken-ground layers and support layers of this materials, newly made back-adherent paper was used for repair, and then I could conform that it was proper to back-adherent paper for repair.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.128-145
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• 2010

Nowadays people are turning to have a more intimate environment-friendly lifestyles. In the clothing industry they are focusing on making products that are more human-friendly and not harmful to the environment. In the midst of the spread of consumption research is being done to develop manufacturing textiles that do not induce pollution. For instance, advantages of the natural textile fibers, cotton, silk, and ramie, have been newly recognized in terms of environment-friendliness, Together with these fibers, the natural high molecular materials, such as chitosan and hyaluronic acid, have found new roles in the application sectors of human-friendliness and environment-friendliness. Products using these substances and processing methods can make the products more wearable, have high sensitivity, make people feel aesthetic appreciation for the products, and make them appreciate the value of a more healthier environment. In a survey according to subjects in their 20s and 30s, their preferences towards their consciousness and awareness of the development of materials as well as their attitude towards environment-friendly products were determined as a conclusion. It was shown that consumers that are more conscious about the interest of the environment as well as the problems concerning the environment were more intent on buying products that were environmentally-friendly. Women have shown more active and positive attitudes towards the importance of the awareness of the environment in comparison with men. Generally, consumers in their 20s and 30s preferred the feel of materials that were less than 1% concentration process than those of materials that were 1% concentration process. To increase the "rustly" feeling of the materials, it was found that 1% concentration process was suitable for manufacturing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.129-136
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• 1993

Authors have studied the adsorption of anionic surfactant from detergent solutions on cotton fabric during washing process and have measured the concentration of the residual surfactant in rinsing solution. The relations with temperature and pre-soaking time to rinsing process have been studied. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate by various textile fibers has also been investigated. The results of this study are; 1. Three times rinsing is sufficient as, without pre-soaking, the concentration of the surfactant on fabric is stable from that time on. 2. The rinsing efficiency increases with temperature; at $25^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, and $55^{\circ}C$, the concentrations of surfactant on the fabric after-rinsing are 68, 59, 51 mg/100 g of fiber respectively. 3. The longer the pre-soaking time, the lower the rinsing efficiency is; the 4hrs presoaked fabric shows increased surfactant concentration than the one without-soaking. And the increment is 35.8%. 4. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate on fabrics differs greatly with the chemical nature of the fiber; wool, silk and nylon which are thought to be ionic-adsorbants shows greater adsorption. 5. The adsorption of surfactant is more affected by the ionic character than the physical one, and the one with higher crystallinity such as cotton and polyester shows lower value than rayon or acetate.

• The Korean Journal of Zoology
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.211-220
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• 1989

The fine structure of the aggregate glands-one of the capture thread producing organs-in the orb web spider, Nephila clavata L.Koch, is studied with light and electron microscopes. Gluey capture threads or sticky spirals of the orb web are originated from the silks of two flagelliform glands and four aggregate glands which are connected to the posterior spinnerets, and the arrangement fo their spigots(large spinning tubes) shows a charaterstic form called "triad". The aggregate galnd is composed of large and multilobed secretory portion and thick excretory duct surrounded by large irregular nodules. The excretory duct of the aggregate galnds basically consists of three superposed types of cells which are inner columnar epithelium, nodule-forming cells and outer connestives. The cuticles of the proximal duct near the secretory portion are composed of endocuticle and exocuticle, whereas ghe distal duct near the spinning tubes has a electron lucent subcuticle which had the functions of water removal and orientation of silk fibers. In the cytoplasmic process of the large and irregular nodule-forming cells surrounded by invaginations of the plasma membranes, numerous mitochondria and glycogen particles are contained. The maturational level of the nodule cells is perceived from the appearence of these cell inclusions. The secretory portion of the glands which porduce the secretory silk material shows two layers of the cells which are simple cuboidal epithelium and several connective layers. In the cytoplasm of the glandular epithelial cell, rough endoplasmic reticulums are well developed, and two types of secretory granules are observed. Between the adjacent epithelial cells, specialized septate junctions are formed along the plasma membranes.membranes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1203-1214
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• 2009

The theory of household arts and practical acts are two traditional mainstream topics of official South Korean secondary home economics education. The clothing and textile education within the Secondary School Home Economics Textbook (1948) is various and practical. The first year textbook discusses the symbolism and maintenance of uniforms that provides information on the characteristics of cotton. Clothing and textiles are covered in 26 pages out of the 76 page book. The second year textbook includes the theory of color and form, along with the characteristics of flax and silk. Clothing and textile education is covered in 33 pages out of the 97 second year textbook. The third year textbook deals with the characteristics of wool, manufactured fibers, cross weaving, removing stains, clothing arrangements, and equipment; 5 chapters (56 pages out of 137) are spent on clothing and textiles. The fourth year textbook introduces the history of clothing, laundry principles, dyeing, bedclothes, and bed accessories; 4 chapters (63 pages out of 125 pages) are spent on clothing and textiles. The Secondary School Home Economics Textbook (1948) is highly extensive and profound in depth. It is comparable with modern college or specialized high school level clothing and textile education in terms of clothing materials, clothing maintenance, color theories, and dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.208-215
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• 2018

The objective was to investigate the efficacy of Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone colorants as a new functional dye for wool fiber. Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for wool fiber. Compared with cotton and silk fibers, wool fiber showed better affinity for the Metasequoia cone colorants. Fe and Cu mordants improved dye uptake, and mordanting did not change the color of dyed fabric with YR Munsell color. Colorfastness to rubbing and washing was as good as grade 4, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics was above grade 3. Antimicrobial activity of the colorants was very high 99.3% of reduction rate toward S. aureus. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorants can be utilized as a new functional natural dye for wool fiber. In addition, considering its high antimicrobial functionality it could be applied to cosmetics and food.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.