• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.60-70
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• 2003

Textile scientists have regarded the material appearance of natural fibers, especially that of silk or wool fibers, as the benchmark for reinventing the look and feel of the long term, friendly companion of mankind. The appearances or textures of the materials surrounding us in everyday life have long been interesting topics to many people.from scholars to painters. Even the simplest questions may require careful pondering. Why is the silk fabric so lustrous with subtlety? Recently, appearance models have become increasingly important in textile products. They are needed to model and simulate different models. In this study, the optical characteristics of filament yarns and knitted fabrics were investigated using images taken at various angles and illumination conditions. Then the images were analyzed using some image analysis techniques, such as thresholding and measuring luster blobs. The anisotropic nature of the filamentous specimens was studied based on the images acquired at different incident illumination and observing angles with several alignment positions of the fabric specimens. A few cylindrical models were generated using commercially available software, Rhinoceros, and then on the models, a ray-tracing algorithm based on a software, POV-Ray, was applied to simulate the appearance or lustrous images of the monofilament models.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.35-47
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• 2001

This is a research about the fabrics attached to the remains of the Okjeon old tomb which was built around the early 5th century to the mid of the 6th century. Most of the remains have one kind of fabric attached to them, but there are cases where different sorts of fabrics are attached, where one kind is attached in layers, and there are also cases where the layer is made of different types of fabrics. Although they are made of warps and wefts with no twists, there can be an S twist on the weft or on both the warp and weft, and only one Z twist can be seen. There are 81 fabrics of plain weaved, one of transformed plain weaved and five 4-end complex gauze in these remains. The sparsest plain weaved fabric has the density of 7.4 strands/cm, while the most dense fabric has the density of 148.2$\times$129.1 strands/cm and 0.046$\times$0.061/mm thickness in thread. All the fabrics observed by SEM are hemp except one silk.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.16-24
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• 1995

Traditionally dyeing fabric with dyestuff extracted from Indigo was a popular method of obtaining blue color in the world before synthetic dyestuff was developed in the 1890's. As the Korean traditional process of dyeing extracted from Indigo, there are two kinds of dyeing process; The deposite dyeing of muddy Indigo and the leaf dyeing of Indigo plant. In order to study the properties of leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing properties, color difference on cotton and silk fabrics under several dyeing conditions were investigated. In the dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing affinity of silk was higher than that of cotton, the cotton and silk fabrics were dyed dark yellowish Green and dark Blue, respectively. the dye uptake increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and of the unmber of dyeing times. When cotton and silk fabrics dyed with leaf dyeing of Indigo at 6$0^{\circ}C$ for six number of times, the K/S value of dyed cotton and silk were calculated 1.286, 2.613 respectively.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.23-34
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• 2019

The aim of this study is to explore the possibility utilizing Rhododedron brachycarpum as a new natural dye resource. It was dyed in silk fabric according to different dyeing conditions such as dye concentration, dye bath temperature, dyeing time and dye bath pH. The effect of the mordanting conditions were estimated as dyeability and color changes. Additionally, the colorfastness, antibacterial property, ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed and mordanted silk fabrics were examined. The water-soluble dye of Rhododedron brachycarpum extracted with distilled water was expressed as Yellow Red color. The dye-abilities of silk generally increased depending on the increasing values of dye concentration, dye bath temperature and dyeing duration. The highest K/S values were obtained at a dye concentration of 100% (v/v), a dye bath temperature of $90^{\circ}C$, a dyeing duration 120 minutes and a dyeing of pH 2. The light fastness of dyed and Cu mordanted silk fabrics were found to be 4 grade while Al, Fe mordanted silk fabrics were found to be 2~3 grade. The dry cleaning and rubbing fastness were excellent or good. The fade of washing fastness was not good, however, the stain of washing fastness was excellent. The dyed and Al, Cu mordanted silk fabrics indicated 99.9% reduction rate. The dyed and the mordanted fabrics showed very good ultraviolet protection factors.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.169-173
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• 2002

Fabric touch was evaluated psychophysically in order to determine the relationship between mechanical properties and subjective sensation. For subjective touch sensation, eight aspects such as hardness, smoothness, coarseness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness and thickness were evaluated using free modulus magnitude estimation (FEME) technique. KES-FB was used to measure the mechanical properties of fabrics. Woolen fabric with the highest values of WC and weight was evaluated as the coarsest, heaviest and thickest. While silk crepe do chine with the lowest LT, G, 2HG, thickness and weight was rated as smoother and more pliable than any other fabrics. And flax with the highest values of LT and SMD was evaluated as hard, cool and crisp. Fabric touch and satisfaction were predicted well from the mechanical properties, especially from SMD, by regression analysis. Satisfaction for touch increased as smoothness increased.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1989.06a
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• pp.87-88
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• 1989

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.772-778
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• 2006

Silk organza can make the silhouette of clothes bulky and rich, owing to its stiffness. And silk organza in the gum has better dyeability so can be dyed more bright and deeper color than scoured silk because silk organza has sericin gum that has better dyeability than fibroin. So, silk organza came into the most broad use as the material for Hanbok, especially in summer. But the silk organza has poor color fastness. Sericin is removed from organza when silk organza go through scouring. The purpose of this research is to find out the optimum conditions that the scoured silk fabrics can get stiffness by persimmon juice treatment. For experiments, non scoured, partially scoured and fully scoured silk fabrics were prepared by alkali treatments. Then 3 kinds of silk fabrics were treated with the concentration of 1, 5, 10, 50 and 100% of persimmon Juice. The change of fiber surface of the various silk fabrics were observed By SEM. The hand values of those fabric samples also were measured hand values by Kawabata Evaluation System and stiffness by Cantilaver method. By scouring, the silk organza got more flexibility and less cohesiveness between their fibers. And it can be a little more bulky by removing gum. Namely, silk organza lost its unique stiff and crisp handle. By the persimmon juice treatment, tannin component could be coated on the fiber surface. so that the stiffness of the fabrics were improved.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.43-50
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• 2002

Silk/Cotton fabrics were treated with butanetetracarboxylic acid(BTCA) to improve crease recovery and anti-shrinking properties at various curing temperatures and pH values. We investigated the effects of finishing conditions on add-on of BTCA, bending property(E, 2HB), wrinkle recovery angle, shrinkage, and dyeing properties. The Add-on of BTCA increased with increasing curing temperature and concentration. Crease recovery was improved with decreasing shrinkage. Maximum add-on of BTCA was showed at pH 2.5. In case of dyeing and mercerization, silk side treated with BTCA was more flexible than untreated, whereas cotton side was more stiff. In dyeing after mercerization, B and 2HB values were higher and K/S values were doubled nearly. The hand of fabric improved with decreasing B and 2HB by the BTCA treatment. BTCA treatment after reactive dyeing improved crease recovery, and caused no change of color difference. However, BTCA treatment after reactive dyeing didn't improve crease recovery, whereas B and 2HB were decreased considerably by the treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.877-884
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• 2005

The importance and usefulness of a subjective evaluation of the sensorial properties of scoured silk fabrics is discussed. Silk fabric was treated at 12 different scouring rates and the scoured fabrics were used as specimens. Using paired comparisons, three trained subjects, evaluated seven subjective sensorial properties; softness, elasticity, drape, stiffness, crispness, and luster. A quad experimental design was adopted as an effective and reliable evaluation method. Results showed that some properties such as drape, luster were easily discriminated depending on the scouring rates whereas the smoothness was not easily discriminated. As the scouring rate increased, it was hard to discriminated the softness, drape, and stiffness, which indicates there is an optimum scouring rates to have a certain sensorial properties. It was suggested that these results should be applied to the manufacturing process.