• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.12 no.4_1
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• pp.137-150
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• 1992

A complete solution, exact to second-order, for wave motion forced by a hinged-wavemaker of variable-draft is presented. A solution for a piston type wavemaker is also obtained as a special case of a hinged-wavemaker. The laboratory waves generated by a plane wave board are shown to be composed of two components; viz., a Stokes second-order wave and a second-harnomic free wave which travels at a different speed. The amplitude of the second-harmonic free wave is relatively large in shallow water and decreases to less than 10% of the amplitude of the primary wave in deep water. Wavemakers with relatively deeper draft (i.e., hinged near the bottom) generate the free waves of smaller amplitude in shallow and intermediate water depths than the wavemakers with shallow draft. However, the opposite is predicted by theory in deep water.

• Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.1-4
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• 1980

It is well known that discrepancies between measured and predicted ship motions are significant in the range of low frequencies. In this paper, the vertical ship motions in regular longitudinal waves in a shallow water are briefly discussed. The investigation is focussed on the role of wave exciting forces and moments to the motion responses in these low frequencies. It is confirmed that diffraction forces are in general small in a shallow water as one may expect. Furthermore the wave exciting forces and moments on a displacement-type ship will be larger practicularly in low frequencies, when the contribution of the diffraction effect is neglected. As a result of this fact theoretically predicted responses for the pitch motion becomes closer to the experimental one. The discrepancies for the heave motion, however, are still apparent.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.14-20
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• 1991

Accurate estimation of irregular wave transformation when the waves propagate from deep water to shallow water region is very important for the design of coastal structures and establishing beach erosion control. In this study. the transformation of directional spectrum is tested numerically using a conservation equation for energy flux and. based upon the joint distribution of wave height. period and wave direction. shoaling effects are predicted in the shallow water region. The applicability of the proposed procedure is verified through comparison with field observation data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.79-90
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• 2009

This paper presents the development of dynamically combined Typhoon generated surge-tide-wave numerical model which is applicable from deep to shallow water. The dynamically coupled model consists of hydrodynamic module and wind wave module. The hydrodynamic module is modified from POM and wind wave module is modified from WAM to be applicable from deep to shallow water. Hydrodynamic module computes tidal currents, sea surface elevations and storm surges and provide these information to wind wave module. Wind wave mudule computes wind waves and provides computed information such as radiation stress, sea surface roughness and shear stress due to winds. The newly developed model was applied to compute the surge, tide and wave fields by typhoon Maemi. Verification of model performance was made by comparison of measured waves and tide data with simulated results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.190-194
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• 2000

Dispersion coefficient influenced by the wave parameters was derived analytically using the vertical velocity distribution based on linear wave theory. It is the depth- and wave period-averaged value and shows larger values in deep water condition than in shallow water condition. It also shows the general pattern of the dispersion coefficient in the oscillatory flows, i.e. it converges the specific value as the wave period is much larger than the vertical mixing time but it approaches zcro as the wave period is much smaller than the vertical mixing time. The dispersion coefficient derived in the condition of the simple assumption have to be modified in order to consider the shallow water condition or the real condition.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• v.28 no.1_2
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• pp.383-395
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• 2010

In the present paper, we construct the traveling wave solutions involving parameters of nonlinear evolution equations in the mathematical physics via the (3+1)- dimensional potential- YTSF equation, the (3+1)- dimensional generalized shallow water equation, the (3+1)- dimensional Kadomtsev- Petviashvili equation, the (3+1)- dimensional modified KdV-Zakharov- Kuznetsev equation and the (3+1)- dimensional Jimbo-Miwa equation by using a simple method which is called the ($\frac{G'}{G}$)- expansion method, where $G\;=\;G(\xi)$ satisfies a second order linear ordinary differential equation. When the parameters are taken special values, the solitary waves are derived from the travelling waves. The travelling wave solutions are expressed by hyperbolic, trigonometric and rational functions.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

Based on Boussinesq equation, the parabolic approximation equation is used to analyse the propagation of shallow water waves with currents over slowly varying depth. Rip currents (jet-like) occur mainly in shallow waters where the Ursell parameter significatly exceeds the range of application of Stokes wave theory. We employ the nonlinear parabolic approximation equation which is valid for waves of large Ursell parameters and small scale currents. Two types of currents are considered; relatively strong and relatively weak currents. The wave propagating over rip currents on a sloping bottom experiences a shoaling due to the variations of depth and current velocity as well as refraction and diffraction due to the vorticity of currents. Numerical analyses for a nonlinear theory are valid before the breaking point.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.83-95
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• 1990

It can be assumed that the ocean waves consist of many independent pure sinusoidal components which progress in arbitrary directions. To analyze irregular sea waves, both the spectrum method and the individual wave method have been used. The spectral approach is valid in the region where the water depth is deep and the linear property of velocity distribution is predominent, while the individual wave analysis method in the region where the water depth is shallow and the wave nonlinearity is significant. Therefore, to investigate the irregular wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water region, it is necessary to relate the frequency spectrum which is estimated by the spectrum analysis method to the i oint probability distribution of wave height, period and direction affected by the boundary condition of the individual wave analysis method. It also becomes important to define the region where both methods can be applied. This study is a part of investigation to establish a systematic approach for analyzing the irregular wave transformation. The region where the spectral approach can be applied is discussed by earring out the experiments on the irregular wave transformation in the two-dimensional wave tank together with the numerical simulation. The applicability of the individual wave analysis method for predicting irregular wave transformation including wave shoaling and breaking and the relation between frequency spectrum and joint probability distribution of wave height and period are also investigated through the laboratory experiment and numerical simualtion.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-5
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• 2000

A numerical analysis for wave motion in the shallow water is presented. The method is based on potential theory. The fully nonlinear free surface boundary condition is assumed in an inner domain and this solution is matched along an assumed common boundary to a linear solution in outer domain. In two-dimensional problem Cauchy's integral theorem is applied to calculate the complex potential and its time derivative along boundary.