• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.69-83
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• 2013

This research is to analyze costumes of Greek Mythology Gods in films using Morris' semiotics. In film "Clash of The Titans", Zeus' costume of shining gold armored body suit and long manteaux expressed the limitless sublime. The definite form contouring body shape of his costume also demonstrated classical beauty. Hades' costume of dark colored armor, long manteaux, and transformation via smoke also described the limitless sublime. The unbalanced and irregular shaped armor showed ugliness. In "Percy Jackson & The Olympians: The Lightening Thief", the armor and long manteaux of Zeus showed the limitless sublime. The beauty of his body and his sophisticated business wear indicated classical beauty. These features were also present in Poseidon's costume as well. The limitless sublime and ugliness are implied in Hades' look by portraying him as having a monster body with horns and wings, and his costume of punk look. In "Immortals", gods of Olympus wore clothing that was reminiscent of Egyptian times, which represented a time of strong royal authority, in order to expose the limitless sublime. Classical beauty was shown in the beauty of their body. Titans' costumes and look of non-human being were composed of black and red to present ugliness. The inherent meanings of Gods' costumes are death of god, patriarchy, and the good triumphing over the evil. The Greek gods are not held in the same reverence in the contemporary society. However mythology inspires lots of visual creations. The results help to accumulate a creative design database for fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.19-30
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• 1996

This study investigate through the Balin-banchado in the Kookjangdogameuigue how the system of banchado ceremony exchanged during the middle late the Yi dynasty and in the period of introducing Wastern civilization The Balinbanchado is carry a coffin out of the house to the royal mausoleum. The characteristic in the general strucutre share banchado with rites of introduction rites of center and rites of finishing. Balin-banchado varies according to the objects and the times of a state funeral. In comparsion with Karaebanchado there are investigate the general structure cer-emonial arms and ceremonial costumes. The special feature of two banchado varies rites of center among rites of three. in the ceremonial arms aspect the characteristic of two ban-chado differ from the objects and the times. In the ceremonial costumes the peculiarity of two banchado can be divided into the guard costumes and the ceremonial arm costumes. The most formal attire of the guard costumes. were murning dress and yang-kwan-chobok and samo-danryeong In the ceremonial arm costumes the most outstanding was hongkun-hongeui baik-kun-baikeui in two banchado.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.35-45
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• 1998

Confucianism, the dominating thought in the Choson Dynasty, considered the congruence of scholar and bureaucrat as principle of royal politics, so it was the important affairs to educate and select scholars who excelled in Confucian science and its historical view. The process to educate and select the scholars in accordance with the spirit of Confucianism was called the civil service examination. In this study, we examined the dress and its ornaments of the Confucian students nd that of the successful candidate related to the system of the civil service examination, and focused on the literatures and figures. The Choson Dynasty looked upon the education as important and Confucian scholars and the successful candidate had the superior position in that society. The seems to have been the demarcation between the dress and its ornaments worn by the candidate and the successful candidate. According to the inquiry of the literatures and figures, the candidate is thought to have worn yuguhn(儒巾) or bokkuhn(幅巾) with chongsam(靑衫), nansam( 衫), jikryung(直領) and the successful candidate is thought to have worn bokduh( 頭) with easahwa(御史花), aengsam(鶯衫), danryung(團領) in the Choson Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.161-171
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• 1982

The idea of King Hungdok's prohibition of clothing was to restrict the use of chinese-made cloth on the one hand and to compell his people to use Korean-made cloth for their apparel on the other. The prohibition of clothing sprang from King Hungdok's aspiration to restore his dynasty that had been falling due to the repeated drought disaster and luxurious living of the aristocracy. Safflower, Rubeaceae roots and Sapan wood are well known as some of the earliest natural red-dyes, exhibiting beautiful red-color in our anciet cultural tradition. The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. Those plants used to make the color yellow are: Gardenia, phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, coptis, safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. Shikon, root of violet plant, is well known as one of the earliest natural days. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.69-82
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• 2003

The Scythians had a veritable passion for adornment, delighting in decorating themselves no less than their horses and belongings. Their love of jewellery was expressed at every turn. The most magnificent pieces naturally come from the royal tombs. In the area of the neck and chest the Scythian had a massive gold Torques, a symbol of power, made of gold, turquoise, cornelian coral and even amber. The entire surface of the torque, like that of many of the other artefacts, is decorated with depictions of animals. Scythian Torques are worn with the decorative terminals to the front. It was put a Torque on, grasped both terminals and placed the opening at the back of the neck. It is possible the Torque signified its wearer's religious leadership responsibilities. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.19-27
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• 2012

Shinyeojuryeom is a set of bamboo blinds[Juryeom] enclosing the Korean litter for transporting a mortuary tablet of royal family[Shinyeo] in Joseon dynasty. The blinds were made up of twigs laid horizontally which were joined together by vertical threading, then they were lined and backed with silk fabric. A number of historical documents such as Gukjosangryebopyeon(1758), JeongjoGukjangdogameuigwe(1800) and Gukjangdogam- myeongseseo(1905) provide information on material and structure of the litter and blinds. How- ever, detailed dimensions or specific ingredients of some of the materials were not clearly explained. In order to complement these missing or unclear parts, a close examination and scientific analysis of the litter's material was undertaken. The result newly identified materials of the gold tip tassels and pigments used on twigs as well as partly confirmed information on historical records. This new information will help further understanding and future production of a replica.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.171-187
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• 2013

This is a study on the military costumes of Hunryeondogam, which was the center of Five Military Camps in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty. I confirmed the characteristics and system of military costumes of Hunryeondogam by document research and positive research. The military organization of Hunryeondogam was comprised of the high-ranking military officers such as Hunryeondaejang, Junggun, Cheonchong, Byeoljang and Gukbyeoljang, the mid and low ranking military officers such as Pachong, Chogwa and soldiers. And the military costume of Hunryeondogam included Gapju, Yoongbok and Goonbok for military officers and all kinds of military uniforms for soldiers. Imjin war and ritualized military ceremonies in the era of peace had influence on the military costume. Officers, for example, were wearing Dangap and soldiers were wearing Cheolgap or Pigap that depended on the branch of the army. Politically, kings in the mid and the late Joseon had organized military organizations to strengthen their royal authority. I think that the policy can be effectively seen by observing the military costume system. The qualitative differences in cloth materials and the presence or absence of patterns of Goonbok, the qualitative differences in the decoration of Jeonrip and the presence or absence of Yodae were able to distinguish the identity and the rank. An assumption can be made that these things could have been affected by social causes, such as frequent trips of the King and stable society. This cause could be influence on substitute Yoongbok with Goonbok that from the low ranking military officers to the high ranking military officers of Hunryeondogam. The societal changes in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty are reflected on the military costumes system of Hunryeondogam.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.65-73
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• 2002

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture interchange in the relationship of the early Chosun Dynasty, by considering the imported goods from Japan, of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the early Korea-Japan relationship in the medieval era. The research results are as follows. A good-neighbor Policy in the early Chosun Dynasty was established by a link of a barbarian ban policy to blockade the frequent intrusion by Japanese barbarians. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun Dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. In trading goods between Korean and Japan. the imported goods from Japan to Korea were a wide variety of items primarily such as dyes, mordant, medicines, steel, spicers, etc. In particular, Somok used as a red mordant, which were intermediate goods to Southeast Asia, was the most heavily-traded items of imported goods from Japan. It had been consumed primarily as a raw material making the costume suit of the royal family and the aristocracy. The increased import of Somok was derived from a thought of preferred red color by our people. As its inflow was increased. the costumes tended to be luxurious In early Chosun Dynasty and resulted in social issues. This active trading from the early Chosun Dynasty caused from the communication of the Japanese envoy. In addition the study of the trading provided an opportunity that can glance at an aspect of the costume culture, though It was fractionary.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.319-329
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• 1989

The present paper mainly cocerns, in social aspect of the cultural change, with how cholik was introduced and accepted in $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. It was through cultural transmission in political relations with Won dynasty that $ch\v{o}$ lik was first listed on our own costume system in later $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. The acceptance by $Kory\v{o}$ society can be interpreted as the twofold effects; positively, it enriched our costume system and, negatively, it brought about various conflicts, which in turn caused some unwelcome reactions. Once it had permeated into $Kory\v{o}$ culture. it could not avoid being changed by social conditions. The changing process can be defined as the dual cycles of fashion. The first one startd at mid peroid of $Kory\v{o}$ when King $Chung-ry\v{o}$l provided a law to wear the $W\v{o}n$ costume and. ended at larter $Kory\v{o}$ of King Kong-min's reign. The second cycle rose in the period between King Sejong's reign and late $Chos\v{o}n$. Each of the two cycles appeared to have its own characteristics; 1. The first cycle. 1) In spite of the long period of a century, the cycle was very abrupt both in development and decline. 2) The abrupt pattern of the cycle can be attributed to the nation-wide law provided by the ruler. 2. The second cycle. 1) Compared with the first cycle, the curve was rather slow. 2) The fashion originated from the hyperimitation of the government officials, since the costume was the royal gift by Chinese Emperor. 3) The main cause of the development of the fastion was the wars, rather than the public preference. 4) The main cause of the decline of the fashion was that it could no more differentiate the social status, that the wearer was laughed at by the Chinese, and that the long period of wearing the same dress stimulated the fashion psychology. 5) The increasing size of the costume rather decreased the very function of the costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.94-105
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• 2009

Hwai-ot is the embroidered bridal red robe that represents the beauty of Korean traditional costume. As there are very few remains of Hwal-ot that are pass to date, the study on Hwal-ot has been limited to the Hwal-ot of Princess Bok-on and some civilian Hwal-ot relics. In this study, I tried to perform a positive research on Hwal-ot of the latter Joseon dynasty by inspecting these Hwal-ot remains housed at Field Museum of Chicago. This study has its meaning in the fact that it tried to illuminate diverse features and beautiful formation of the Korean traditional Hwal-ot by comparing those possessed by overseas museums with the ones in Korean museums. Number 33157 Hwal-ot has very unique pattern with both embroidery and gold imprint decorated. It has less embroidery than the Princess Bok-on's Hwal-ot but has much diverse gold imprint patterns. Other four Hwal-ot remains, other than the number 33157, have similar characteristics with the Hwal-ot housed at Changdeok-gung, whose reproductions are also kept at Dankook University Muesum and Ewha Womans University Museum, which makes it possible to deduce that they have typical characteristics of the Royal Hwal-ot of the latter Joseon dynasty.