• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.971-977
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of nautral dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Rhusjara ica was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Rhusjara ica were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Rhusjara ica solution was 299 nm. The color of Rhusjara ica solution was affected by pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Rhusjara ica was 6$0^{\circ}C$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 80~10$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30 min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treatment, specially Fe, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. In the case of Rhusjara ica fastness was increased by mordanting treatment.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.380-390
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• 2005

The effect of high purity chitosan was studied on its application to the natural dyeing using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were introduced on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, we found that, in the case of cotton, chitosan untreated fabrics were not dyed enough, and the dyeing effect was not developed even though the mordanting was introduced. However, the chitosan treated fabrics developed excellent dyeing result even in the non-mordanting case. Through the results of cotton fabric dyeing, it was presumed that the dyeing affinity of the chitosan toward the Rhusjara ica, which prefer specific dyestuff (mainly black color), is selectively high. In the case of nylon, the dyeing effect is not developed easily under all conditions regardless of the chitosan treatment or the mordant treatment. It was inferred that a certain portion of the Rhusjara ica dyestuff made direct bonding with the functional elements in the nylon molecules without the help of the mordant. Through the results of nylon fabrics, it was presumed that some functional elements of the nylon molecules had selective affinity toward the specific colorant (mainly yellow color) of the Rhusjara ica.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.540-549
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• 2005

It was the purpose of this study to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment and mordanting on the air-permeability, fastness of the dyestuff to washing, fastness of the dyestuff to light, and antimicrobial effect of cotton and nylon fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were made on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, due to the dye-uptake of the dyestuff component of the Rhusjara ica, the air-permeability values decreased considerably. And due to the action of the mordanting agents, the air-permeability decreased also. The air-permeability decreased more conspicuously in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the chitosan components than in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the cotton fibers or nylon fibers. Nylon dyed fabric exhibited better wash fastness than the cotton dyed fabric. As the number of washing increased, the color of the cotton fabric specimens and nylon fabric specimens, dyed using Rhusjara ica, shifted toward yellowish. The light fastness values were in the range of grade 1${\~}$2, which were very inferior. The light fastness values did not improve according to the mordanting or to the chitosan treatment. In the case of chitosan untreated fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica, the growth rate of the bacteria promoted, on the contrary, compared to that of the control white fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.113-119
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• 2005

In our previous study, the color development characteristics in the dyeing of silk fibers and PET fibers using Rhusjara ica and related properties were meticulously reviewed. At the same time, the fabric specimens were endowed with chitosan treatment prior to the dyeing procedure in order to investigate the effect of chitosan on the dyeing behavior. The analysis of the colors only, however, would not give us complete elucidation of the effect of fiber characteristics and the mordanting characteristics. In this study, the effect of chitosan and metal mordant treatment in dyeing of silk and PET fabrics using Rhusjara ica has been studied. The change of air-permeability, wash fastness, and light fastness were also investigated.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.57-66
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• 2005

In natural dyeing, a number of supplementary methods have been practiced since deep shades of the dyed fabrics are not developed satisfactorily. The methods include using the mordants effectively or subjecting the fabrics to reiterated dyeing processes. In this study, we obtained deep shades in the dyeing of fabrics using Rhusjara ica as the dyestuff and applied chitosan to the fabric specimens in order to diversify the colors. Silk fibers and PET(polyethylene terephthalate) fibers were pretreated using chitosan, and subsequently dyed using different types of mordants. As the mordanting agents, Al, Sn, and Fe were employed. Various shades have been resulted in since the interactions of the mordants are different toward the silk fibers and PET fibers. In this study, we investigated the effect of the chitosan treatment along with the change of the mordanting agents on the color change for the silk and PET fibers.