• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.18-24
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• 2004

In this study, the Mild slope equation is extended to both rapidly varying topography and nonlinear waves, using the Hamiltonian principle. It is shown that this equation is equivalent to the modified mild-slope equation (Kirby and Misra, 1998) for small amplitude wave, and it is the same form with the nonlinear mild-slope equation (Isobe, 1994) for slowly varying bottom topography. Comparing its numerical solutions with the results of some hydraulic experiments, there is good agreement between them.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.149-157
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• 2001

From the weakly nonlinear mild-slope wave equations introduced by Nadaoka et al.(1994, 1997), a set of weakly nonlinear wave equations for rapidly varying topography are derived by including the bottom curvature and slope-squared tenns ignored in the original equations ofNadaoka et al. To solve the linear version of extended wave equations derived in this study one-dimensional finite difference numerical model is con¬structed. The perfonnance of the model is tested for the case of wave reflection from a plane slope with various inclination. The numerical results are compared with the results calculated using other numerical models reported earlier. The comparison shows that the accuracy of the numerical model is improved significantly in comparison with that of the original equations ofNadaoka et al. by including a complete set of bottom curva1w'e and slope¬squared terms for a rapidly varying topography.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2008.09a
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• pp.164-167
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• 2008

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2008.09b
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• pp.164-167
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• 2008

• Proceedings of the KSME Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.209-212
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• 2002

Since Berkhoff proposed the mild-slope equation in 1972, it has widely been used for calculation of shallow water wave transformation. Recently, it was extended to give an extended mild-slope equation, which includes the bottom slope squared term and bottom curvature term so as to be capable of modeling wave transformation on rapidly varying topography. These equations were derived by integrating the Laplace equation vertically. In the present study, we develop a finite element model to solve the Laplace equation directly while keeping the same computational efficiency as the mild-slope equation. This model assumes the vertical variation of wave potential as a cosine hyperbolic function as done in the derivation of the mild-slope equation, and the Galerkin method is used to discretize . The computational domain was discretized with proper finite elements, while the radiation condition at infinity was treated by introducing the concept of an infinite element. The upper boundary condition can be either free surface or a solid structure. The applicability of the developed model was verified through example analyses of two-dimensional wave reflection and transmission. .

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.845-854
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• 1998

Following the approach of Ebersole (1985), water wave transformation is predicted using the eikonal equation and transport equation for wave energy which are reduced from the extended mild-slope equation of Massel (1993), and also the irrotationality of wave number vectors. The higher-order bottom effect terms, i.e., squared bottom slope and bottom curvature, are neglected in the study of Ebersole but are included in the present study. It was expected that, if these terms are included in this study, the approach would give more accurate solution in the case of rapidly varying topography. But, the expectation was frustrated. It is probably because, in the case of rapidly varying topography, the diffraction effect which is included in the eikonal equation does not work well and thus the solution is deteriorated.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.72-77
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• 2003

In this study, Mild slope equation is extended to both of rapidly varying topography and nonlinear waves in a Hamiltonian formulation. It is shown that its linearzed form is the same as the modified mild-slope equation proposed by Kirby and Misra(1998) And assuming that the bottom slopes are very slowly, it is the equivalent with nonlinear mild-slope equation proposed by Isobe(]994) for the monochromatic wave. Using finite-difference method, it is solved numerically and verified, comparing with the results of some hydraulic experiments. A good agreement between them is shown.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.117-126
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• 2009

In order to test the accuracy between the modified mild slope equation (MMSE) without evanescent modes and the plane-wave approximation (PA) of eigenfunction expansion method, various numerical results from both models are presented. In this study, analytical solutions of two models are employed, one based on the MMSE derived by Porter (2003) and the other on the scatterer method of PA by Seo (2008a). Judging from direct comparisons against existing results of rapidly varying topography, the PA model gives better predictions of the wave propagation than the MMSE model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.174-186
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• 1998

A Galerkin's finite element model incorporating infinite elements for modeling of radiation condition at infinity has been developed, which is based on an extended mild-slope equation. To illustrate the validity and applicability of the present model, the example analyses were carried out for a resonance problem in the rectangular harbor of Ippen and Goda (1963) and for wave transformations over circular shoals of Sharp (1968) and Chandrasekera and Cheung (1997). Comparisons with the results obtained by hydraulic experiments and hybrid element method showed that the present model gives very good results in spite of the rapidly varying topography. Numerical experiments were also performed for wave transformations over a circular concave well which may be an alternative to conventional wave barriers.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.159-166
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• 2003

In this study, we develop a finite element model to directly solve the Laplace equation while keeping the same computational efficiency as the models based on the extended mild-slope equation which has been widely used for calculation of wave transformation in shallow water. For this, the computational domain is discretized into finite elements with a single layer in the vertical direction. The velocity potential in the element is then expressed in terms of the potentials at the nodes located at water surface, and the Galerkin method is used to construct the numerical model. A common shape function is adopted in horizontal direction, and the cosine hyperbolic function in vertical direction, which describes the vertical behavior of progressive waves. The model was developed for vertical two-dimensional problems. In order to verify the developed model, it is applied to vertical two-dimensional problems of wave reflection and transmission. It is shown that the present finite element model is comparable to the models based on extended mild-slope equations in both computational efficiency and accuracy.