• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.197-215
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• 1998

Vivienne Westwood, the revolutionary cre-ator of Punk fashion(ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, fetishist accoutrements) was a street fashion designer. Although Westwood's clothes have frequently been described as decadent, degenerate and unwearable, they have also exerted a powerful influence on interntional fashion. Westwood became a fashion designer in the mid-1970s, when he emergence of Punk put London back on the fashion map for the first time since 1965. Just as the Mods, Rockers, and Hippies of the 1960s had embraced par-ticular styles of dress and music, so also did the Punks create their own subculture. The Punk“style in revolt”was a deliberately“re-volting style”that incorporated into fashion various offensive or threatening objects like tampons, razor blades, and lavatory chains. Vivienne Westwood and parter Malcolm McLaren articulated this youth culture, who roots lay in music. A sign is something which stands for some object or idea, while the semiotics are the ex-ternal expression for an internal meaning. Semiotics can be used as a medium of communication between dress and music. A language is simply used for explicit of meaning, while the style of dress and music express the explicative and implicative signs. Peirce's scheme among several theories of the semiotics was chosen for this study, because the Peirce's scheme was the first non-language communication medium between external and internal stages, and readily inter-preted the styles of dress and music. Punk rock was studied at first to identify the style which influenced Vivienne Westwood's works and then Semiotics were used to apply the above results to the 1970s and 1990s for analyzing and interpreting the Vivienne Westwood's works were also interpreted by the symbolic characteristics of Semiotics, because the symbol of semiotics often found at Youth Cults reflected punk rock. The symbol of revolt, decadence, grungy, freedom in Vivienne Wes-twood's works wre determined by using Punk rock's semiotics. This study could conclude that the style of dress and punk rock were able to be interpreted by semiotics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.76-89
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• 2009

Popular music unites people who have different genders, ages, locals, and values. Through the popular music, youth interchange their emotion and create their fashion. Fashion and music formed the twin pillars on which the first historically significant youth sub-culture was built. Glam rock and Punk rock which won popularity in the 1970s influenced the fashion of the times. The purpose of this study is to compare Glam and Punk make-up which appeared as a symbol of the rebel against an older generation. The methodology utilized in this study was the analysis of materials from the survey through the literature, internet sites, and visual references. The results of this study are as follows: In face make-up, Glam used a white base to appear cosmic; on the other hand, Punk used a white base to appear pale and horrid. In eye make-up, Glam used black, pink, and blue eye shadow, and accented the eye by using black eye lines. Punk used black eye shadow, and drew black circles or squares around eyes. In lip make-up, Glam used pink, purple, red, and black lip color and silver and pink lip gloss to glitter. Punk used red and black lip color to appear horrid. In body make-up, Glam used glitter powder to appear with a bright skin. Punk drew tattoos and horror patterns in their body. The common themes of Glam and Punk make-up were rebellion, androgyny, and the beauty of ugliness as well as a self-created persona.

• 트랜스-
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• 제8권
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• pp.1-28
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• 2020

본 연구는 지역기반 음악사조로서 '홍대 사운드'의 정체성을 '미8군 사운드'와 영국 '런던 펑크'와의 비교분석을 통해 고찰해본다. 홍대음악은 90년대 클럽을 중심으로 활동하던 밴드들이 연주하던, 주류의 음악과는 장르적·산업적으로 다른 비주류적 감성의 음악을 통칭한다. 하지만 '인디'라는 산업적인 관점에서의 정체성이 음악사조로서의 홍대음악에 대한 학술적 접근을 어렵게 만드는 것도 사실이다. 그러므로 서구의 다른 음악사조와 마찬가지로 지역기반의 음악사조로서 홍대 사운드의 정체성을 명확하게 재정립하는 것이 필요하다. '미8군 사운드'는 50년대 미군의 한국 주둔 이후 자연스럽게 형성된 미8군부대 내 공연무대에서 연주되던 음악적 경향을 통칭한다. 미군 커뮤니티의 위문공연을 위해 오디션 시스템을 통해 선발된 국내 뮤지션들은 그들의 입맛에 맞는 서양의 최신 대중음악을 자연스럽게 익혔고, 이는 한국대중문화에 빠르게 전파되어갔다. 미8군 사운드의 산업시스템은 오늘날 '케이팝'과 매우 흡사하지만, 새롭게 등장한 록 장르를 수용하여 새로운 음악경향을 주도했다는 점에서 홍대 사운드와 유사한 면을 발견할 수 있다. 런던 펑크는 70년대 중반 영국 젊은이들의 사회적 불만과 저항정신을 담은 록 장르로, 기본에 충실한 음악적 구성과 인디의 DIY정신을 내세운 대안적 음악이었다. 홍대 사운드는 산업구조나 음악 스타일, 정신적인 면에서 런던 펑크의 많은 부분을 계승하였다. 하지만 시류의 변화에 영합하여 주류로 편입된 런던펑크와 달리 홍대 사운드는 끊임없는 변화를 모색하면서도 인디의 기본정신과 진정성을 포기하지 않으며 음악사적으로 유래를 찾기 힘든 지속성을 유지하고 있다.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

The purpose of this thesis is to study the formative characteristics and symbolism shown in Rock stars' hairstyles through rock music to have influenced youth culture. There were a D.A style and a mop top style which included the youth characteristic to seek a new desire and value as the hairstyles of Rock & Roll stars, along with the characteristics of Rock & Roll music to represent the feeling of teenagers in 1950's at that time unlike the previous music due to high beats mixed with Rhythm & Blues (R & B) and Country music, and use of electronic guitars. We can see the desire for challenge and freedom against the then present regime, shouting love and peace, and resistance in the Psychedelic Rock music stars' hairstyle, which are untrimmed and disheveled, that is, natural. We can find explosiveness in Mohican and Spike style of Punk Rock stars playing fierce and aggressive music, along with words including indignation and assertion against the society's regime. The Artistic characteristic is implied in the following hairstyles: Glam Rock stars' hairstyle, a man's long-haired but a little long crew-cut style to reduce the bulky feeling and to give a bisexual, visible shock with hair dyed in orange to emphasize magnificence, and Punk Rock stars' hairstyle showing beauty in their own way with expression of anti-beauty to intentionally look ugly. Like this, the 20th Century's Rock music and youth culture are closely associated each other, and showed a new style, and played a leading role in street fashion, which became a momentum to much influence high fashion as a look of the 20th century modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.101-121
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• 1995

The Purpose of this study was to investigate homology between the Popular music and Fashion of youthful subculture and how the image of popular music have influenced on the 90's fashion. As the result, Korean youthful subculture analized to be different from western youthful subculture. In western countries, the style of youthful subculture groups spread to tricle up as developed themselves but represented tricle down phenomenon in Korea. Because life con-dition of Korean Youthful was different from westerns in everything. The Image of popular music have an influenced on the 90's fashion, it is be classified into the Jazz image, the Country & Western image, the Rock image, and Hip-Hop, Ragge image. 1. The jazz image from Jazz music has come back dandism of the nostalgia mood and intro-duce ethnic sense into fashion. 2. The Country & Western image is reflected in fashion of accessories details, materials and Coordination item. 3. The rock image from Acid Rock and Punk Rock effected the advent of hippie mood fashion, ethnic, ecology, new unisex fashion and Punk fashion trend. 4. The hip-hop, raggae image from Rap and Raggae music showed on fashion of primitive mood's naturism, Sports wear's generalization and dualism. After the 90th, youthful fashion of new gener-ation may be infered constantly on the move toward $\ulcorner Fashion democracy \lrcorner$formation.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.101-118
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• 2003

This paper describes pop stars' fashion style by the changes of pop music from the 1950's of the formative Period of a rock-n-roll to the 1990's. The author could examine the features of pop music as follows : the 1950's rock-n-roll, the 1960's rock and Psychedelic rock. the 1970's punk rock, the 1980's new wave and the 1990's reggae·hip-hop. Based on the examination, the author could do sampling of the fashion style, on which current pop music had influence, by rock style, new wave style, and reggae hip-hop style. The rock style makes appearance again as a new style when it is recently accepted to be a fashion. The 1960's hippie, which contains long-cherished desire of antiwar and peace after September 11, 2001 Attack on America and the Afghan War. reappeared as luxurious hippie, and the hybrid punk has been made because barriers between cultures have been collapsed to mix items and combine contradicting components at fashion field. The new wave style destroys sex difference of clothes. and men's clothes style has introduced women's dress style, so that androgynous style, which has handsome boy image with womanlike hair style and makeup, and the lingerie style without distinction of underwear and outer garment has made appearance through new cloth wearing ways and overexposure. The reggae and hip-hop style makes appearance to overcome social strata, groups, ages, regions and gender, etc and become one of the 21s1 century culture codes. In conclusion, pop music have played very important roles until expansion and popularity of new fashion style, and has been quickly expanded by mass media development. When the pop music fashion styles are introduced to high fashion, fashion styles have become more polished and high-qualify to expand them at main fashion world again.

• 복식
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.37-51
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to devise a wide range of expression and direction in fashion by analyzing the wardrobe of David Bowie, a musician who represents Glam Rock, for "glam" characteristics. Research was done using dictionaries of musical terms, dictionaries of attire terms, internet, papers and books published in Korea and abroad and other materials. The results of this study showed four characteristics, and it can be summarized as follows. First, resistance refers to the deviation from the norms set by a mainstream society. The resistance in Glam Rock was expressed in depreciative and anti-social characteristics, and Punk elements were expressed by using studs and metallic materials. Second, androgyny in David Bowie's costume expresses the innate nature of gender by freely integrating or tight silhouette costumes. Third, the fantasy in Bowie's costumes is a concept as opposed to what is real and is expressed by using avant-garde and playful expressions. Distorted, exaggerated and avant- garde expressions express decorative and bizarre fantasy by using the images of an astronaut. Fourth, the folklore in David Bowie's costumes uses the patterns and images of different cultures, and is expressed as through integration of exotic components, including the usage of costumes with Oriental colors and shapes. Furthermore it represents geometric shapes and curves, using the images of Kimono.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.163-179
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• 2012

Among diverse cultural types which can be shown in movie, 'Subculture' is young culture that resist to major culture. It shows its belief and identity via its own style. Their 'Subcultural Style' became popular with mass media and has been affected to major cultures. Therefore, in this research, with times background as postmodernism in end of 20th century and mainly with movie which is about sexual minorities, I analyzed categories of costumes in the movie. Hedwig's rock costume shows combined fashion with hippie, punk, glam, kitsch, goth styles from the impact of postmodernism in mid 20th century. Tommy, showed his relief and defiant intention against old generations with grunge casual and graffiti styles. After he realized Hedwig's identity and showed defiant goth rock style as a famous rocker. The band, "Angry Inch", showed dissatisfaction and cynical attitude against the American society through subculture styles. Through this research, the fact that movie costume used a tool to show human's identity and value. Also, I can see that movie costume shows times and cultural phenomenon in the end of 20th century and through this, it was confirmed that this contributes to crease new fashion style through them.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.114-129
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• 2006

This purpose of this study is to research on the influence on the creation of young generation's street fashion of pop stars focused on pop music given the fact that fashion can be created by popular culture in this multi-media era. Also, this study is to provide useful data for the activation of the creation of young fashion culture and the fashion industry through pop stars' fashion. The pop stars' fashion that has affected young street fashion is as follows : Elvis Presley's rock'n'roll style, Beatles' mods style, Janis Joplin's hippy style, Sex Pistols's punk style, Madonna's boy-toy and corset style, Michael Jackson's androgynous style, Puff Daddy and L.L Cool J's hip-hop style, Bob Marley's reggae style, Spice Girls, Jennifer Lopez and Britney Spears's sexy style. The young street fashion culture of pop stars and its industrial meaning withdrawn from the above are as follows : Creation of a fashion icon, Creation of anti-fashion, Liberation of a sex role, Costume play culture, Activation of the young fashion industry through star marketing.