• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2010

Recently, young men have become more muscular, as they have become increasingly more interested in health and their physical appearances. The trend these days is to wear slim suits to accentuate their figures. Men's pants are the one of the most general clothes which men wears. While pants are an ordinary item of clothing, most muscular men have fitting problems with ready-made pants. In view of this, this study aimed at developing a prototype pants pattern for muscular men. In this study, five muscular men were selected for wearing tests. The regression formulas, in which muscular men's body measurements were adopted, were applied to unsuitable body parts, especially the body parts determined inappropriate based on the results of the existing pants pattern wearing tests. After going through the first and second pants pattern wearing tests, the final pants patterns were developed that were suitable for muscular men. The results of the study were as follows: In order to solve the problem of the insufficient of ease due to the development of the hip muscles, the crotch length was made longer, (0.08${\times}$hip circumference+17.648)+1.5cm and front crotch width and back crotch width were made wider, 1.0cm each than those of the existing pants prototype patterns. The ease of 0.5cm was added to the hip circumference/4+2.5cm because of the development of the hip and thigh muscles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.284-293
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• 2015

This study intends to analyze the fit of directly-imported American casual pants for Korean female college students in terms of appearance and comfortableness. The authors carried out a wearing test with sample pants from 3 brands (DKNY: A, Gap: B, Polo: C) that had the most market share and that were mostly preferred by Korean female college students. Results showed that pants A had insufficient ease in the crotch, as the depth of the crotch was short. The hip girth received a low assessment in terms of appearance. Moreover, the hem widths were wide while the pants length was long. Pants B were expected to be most appropriate for Korean women's bodies, as they had the longest crotch depth among the three brands. However, the pants appeared to pull downward due to the narrow thigh and the knee girth and hem width. Moreover, the crotch girth and hip girth received a poor appearance assessment. Pants C were rated as satisfactory for their thigh girth, knee girth, and hem width. However, the crotch was uncomfortable, as it had a short crotch depth. The hip girth received a low appearance assessment. This study suggests that a pattern adjustment is required for directly-imported American pants to provide a better fit for the bodies of Korean women. The crotch depths should be approximately 17.5 cm. The hem widths should be approximately 20 cm. We also suggest a leg length of 75 cm, a waist girth of 86 cm, and a hip girth of 97 cm.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.820-835
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide a basic pattern to assist in the development of formal pants that reflect the physical characteristics of women with lower-body obesity. The subjects selected for this study were women in their 20s and 30s with a Rohrer index of 1.6 or higher, a waist circumference 78.5cm to 83.5cm, and a lower drop of at least 18cm. The experimental pants patterns were developed by varying the waist line position, the waist ease, the ease in the hip area, the crotch length, the front and rear crotch width, the leg width, and the total length. Data analysis was performed using the SPSS statistics program(version 18.0). To verify the difference, this study used a variance analysis and Duncan's test. The conclusions drawn by the study are as follows. To reflect the form element of an abdomen with fatty deposits, the waist circumference should have an ease of 2cm. The front waist result was W/4+0.5cm+0.75cm and the rear waist result was W/4-0.5cm+0.25cm. The hip circumference showed a total ease of 4.5cm. The front hip result was H/4+0.75cm and the rear hip result was H/4+1.5cm. The crotch width set to H/16-1cm and the applied rear crotch width was H/16+2cm. The rear hip area was given more ease to reflect the protrusion of the hip. Along the line extending from the knee area to the crotch line, the outer seam line was designed with a gradual S-shaped curve to accommodate the protrusion from the maximum thigh width.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.48-57
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine the inconvenience when putting on stretchable pants and to analyze the whole actual conditions of making of the lining fabrics. For this study, we conducted a survey of women in their twenties and collected the basic data and master pattern through material of a woman's wear brand and the interview and questionnaires. The results of this study were as follows. First, the survey result for the woman consumers it showed that the most uncomfortable problem about the lining of pants was not sufficient stretch as much as the out-shell. Secondly, it was shown that many brands(46.7%) were using the lining fabrics of stretch clothes mixed with 'non-stretch fabrics' and 'stretch fabrics'. The result of lining pattern making for the stretch pants showed that the ease of the lining fabrics was 0 to 4cm in the hip girth more than out-shell. The ease in crotch width was 0 to 1.3cm for lining fabrics. But in the stretch lining fabrics the ease for front crotch width was 0 to 1cm more than out-shell. The lengths of crotch rising were -0.7 to 1.3cm for the non-stretch lining fabrics and -1 to 1cm for the stretch lining fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.159-167
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• 2009

Based on instructions in the textbook "How to Construct Korean Costumes" which I authored, my university students were required to make Pungcha-Baji(Korean traditional pants for children) for one-year-old boys. While examining the students' construction, I found that the side seams of the vest and pants did not line up but were improperly twisted. It was found that the pants did not cover the child's backside because the width of the back was smaller than the width of the front when one of the side panels and the large center panel in the front was half the size of the hip and one of the side panels and the small panel in the back was four fifths of half the size of the hip. Although there were differences between the waist size of the pants and the bottom hem of the vest, the textbooks instruct that the amount of material and the number of pleats(i.e. 4 pleats) on the pants and the vest should be the same. Finding this mistake led me to investigate Pungcha-Baji construction in related textbooks. Thus with the textbook instruction, the side seams of the pants and the vest do not match and are improperly twisted. Hence, as a solution, the pleats should be made and adjusted after matching the side seams of the pants and the vest. The purpose of this study is to examine currently available Pungcha-Baji related textbooks and determine the correctness of their instructions and to ultimately provide correct construction methods for Pungcha-Baji pattern for academic purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.69-81
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out apparel fit satisfaction according to item(jacket, pants, skirt) by body perception and body satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, Pearson's Correlation, Crosstabs were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) Correlation between body perception and body satisfaction : The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of upper body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, lower arm, waist and lower abdomen. The subjects were more satisfied with taller height. The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of lower body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker hips. thighs, calves, ankles, and longer crotch length. However, they were more satisfied with longer legs. 2) Apparel fit by body perception and body satisfaction: The subjects who were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, waist, thighs and wider hips were less satisfied with the upper arm area, waist area. hip area of jacket. The subjects who were more satisfied with longer arms were more satisfied with the sleeve length of jacket. The subjects who were less satisfied with wider shoulder width were less satisfied with the upper back width of jacket. It means the shoulder width affected more the upper back width of jacket than shoulder width of jacket. The subjects who were less satisfied with wider hips were less satisfied with the hip area of pants and skirt. The subjects who were less satisfied with thicker thighs were less satisfied with the thigh area and the hip area of pants and skirt. The subjects who were less satisfied with longer crotch length were less satisfied with the crotch length of pants. 3) Difference between actual body and perceived body by Rohrer Index: Rohrer Index 109 calculated by average of the ideal height(165.83cm) and weight(49.78kg) of the subjects ranged in thin body type(below 120). The subjects tended to perceived their bodies fatter than their actual bodies. Also, the subjects tended to perceived their lower bodies fatter than upper bodies.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.145-160
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• 2005

On the subjects of the female adults in their 20s who love to wear jeans, the wearing reality of basic jean pants and engineered jean pants was examined while pattern comparison and the evaluation of appearance and functions were made to reach the following conclusions: 1. Wearing reality of engineered jean pants Among the examined subjects, 74.8% were found out to favor engineered jean pants. Those who have engineered jean pants turned out to pursue well-known brands more than practicality. 2. Pattern comparison analysis of basic jean pants and engineered jean pants Though similar sizes existed in pants tips and belt width, engineered jean pants showed bigger values in waist circumference, crotch circumference, hip circumference, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on. There were no big differences in the front part except for the items like crotch circumference and crotch length, but engineered jean pants had bigger sizes in the rear part. Engineered jeans in the rear contained the outward curved silhouette of the legs, curved tips, and a dart design instead of a back yoke. 3. Evaluation of appearance and functions In the scores of appearance, basic jean pants were higher at 3.65 in the order of front > side > back. On the contrary, engineered jean pants were excellent in the order of side > back > front. In the items of functions, engineered jean pants were higher at 4.23 in the order of hips > thighs> waist > abdomen > knee > crotch. On the other hand, basic jean pants showed the order of knee > crotch & thighs > abdomen > hips > waist. In every movement, engineered jean pants revealed higher functionality. In particular, the bigger physical movement led to the greater functional differences between the two kinds of jean pants.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.253-262
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was improvement of the pants fit for obese women. The results were as follows; 5 obese women in their 20s and 30s were selected for the testing 3D body. They showed no significant differences in all items, comparing with the data of 5th Size Korea body dimensions. The average waist circumstance of the subjects' 3D body dimensions was 87.0 cm and hip circumstance was 102.4 cm, and their obese body types had similar mean values. Based on the survey results and the 3D body dimensions of 5th Size Korea body dimensions, a pants pattern to supplement their body type and improve a fit was designed with waist circumference(88 cm), hip circumference(103 cm), crotch length(27.1 cm), thigh circumference(62 cm), pants length(97 cm), pants hem line circumference(44 cm). Based on the detailed design of ready made pants and the study results of young obese women's preference for pants design, pants of straight silhouette and semi-tight fit which have waist line lowered by 3.5 cm from the waist circumference line, 3.5 cm belt width, no front dart and one back dart, were manufactured with 100% black cotton and cotton spandex mixed fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.75-84
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• 2019

The purpose of this study was to present a good pants pattern for boys aged 13-18 by comparing and analyzing the pants pattern according to lower body shape. And through it, this study was to provide basic data for pants production considering male student body shape. The pattern of this study used the industrial type Lee Hee-chun pattern and DC Suite Program for 3D virtual simulation. As a result of the appearance evaluation, there was a significant difference between the patterns in most items. Type 2 was rated highly, followed by Type 4, Type 3, and Type 1. Type 1 required correction of the length of the pants and the amount of crotch part, while type 3 required adjustment of the pants in the knee area. Type 4 required correction of pattern drawing method of crotch width, thigh circumference, and knee circumference. This pattern method was evaluated as suitable for slender body shape. This study suggests a pants pattern system suitable for adolescent boys by reflecting the body shape characteristics of adolescent boy with a change of body shape. It is expected that this will meet the increasing demand for fitting. In this study, we have examined 3D virtual simulation, not actual wear experiment, so it will be necessary to investigate the difference through actual clothing experiment for adolescent boys.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.48-63
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to provide information on how to improve both the satisfaction and the current sizing system for the school uniform focused on middle and high school boys' students. In order to collect the data, a questionnaire was administered to 451 middle and high school boy students. 228 middle school boys' and 223 high school boys' data were analyzed using the SPSS Win. 10.0 program. The results of this study were as follows : 1. For the satisfaction of their school uniform, there were statistical differences in mean of the group by the academic year in the jacket(color, textile, design, activity), shirt(color, design, activity), and pants(color, design, activity) in the case of middle school boys'. On the other hand, high school boys' evaluation of school uniform was significantly different in jacket(color), shirt(color, textile, design, activity), pants(design), and tie(color, textile, design) by the academic year. 2. For the evaluation of sizing fitness, the length of jacket and the breadth of sleeve in jacket, and the width of sleeve in blouse, the length of pants, and the width of pants were statistical differences in mean of the group in middle school boys' by the grade whereas there was no significant difference in high school students by the grade. 3. It was shown that more getting school uniform repaired after the point of purchase in both middle school and high school students was higher.