• 복식
• /
• 제56권6호
• /
• pp.96-113
• /
• 2006

Romanticism factors in fashion since the 1990s is more about feminine softness and grace, and suggests the image of a fantastic cute and lovable girl with dreams. This study examined romanticism in literature focusing on the 19th century, which is considered the time of romanticism, and examined romanticism in men's fashion since the 1990s based on the newly found characteristics of romanticism. Romanticism in men's fashion since the 1990s can be divided into three categories of individual sensitivity pursuing romanticism, romanticism with a desire to aspire, and resistance inclined romanticism. First, individual sensitivity pursuing romanticism is the type that places importance on expression of emotions based on the values on individuals, and was expressed as either romanticism with sexual charm or as romanticism with an extremely feminine taste. Second, romanticism with a desire to aspire was the most prominent romanticism fashion type in men's fashion since the 1990s and it can be divided into four categories of aspiration of nature and time, aspiration of the past and romanticism, aspiration of childhood and aspiration of new exotic cultures. Third, resistance inclined romanticism was expressed as romanticism that is inclined to resist against materialism and romanticism that resists against youth culture.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제2권1호
• /
• pp.33-44
• /
• 1993

It is interesting that the costume in the period of romanticism was very fantastic and peculiar in its aspects. The romanticism in the fashion theme of these days' mode represents the image of this France romanticism. Costume has unseparable relations with the style of art in the same period. Especially, plastic art has logical connection with costume because it is an art through silhouette, line, color and texture felt by visional and solid feelings. This kind of study is important in order to understand the fashion of today, to anticipate the fashion in future and to get recognition of costume as a genre of arts. This study is to analyse and compare the general features in the grown-ups' everyday clothes of France from 1815 to 1850 when costume in the period of romanticism reached its peaks with the art of architecture, paintings, sculpture and technology, with the aid of documentary recordings. The above study explain that costume is expressed by the same plastic art of the period if it coexists in the same cultural background. Finally, we can plan the costume in future on an artistic dimension by understanding correctly the characteristics of plastic art which modern costume pursue from an artistic point of view.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제22권1호
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2020

Romanticists realized the ideals of a more fantastic and better society for the present day in which they lived; in addition, dress was an important medium of expression of this period. The Incroyables were a group that expressed eccentric forms and abuses of luxury through their clothing, centering around the second generation of financial elite groups during the French Directoire. Incroyables created their own fashion that expresses their new image in dress, expressing the intense personal innerity of life, which was influenced by the romanticism of pursuing an internal expression of the subjective and emotional individual. This study used a literature review to analyze the characteristics of the Romanticism expressed in the Incroyables fashion. The research results were as follows. First, it was an expression of an emotional desire for and ancient regime. Incroyables fashion were based on bourgeois nostalgia for the days of the ancient regime that resulted in an emphasis on individual and original human views. Second, it was also a hybrid of Romantic classicism. It was a form emphasizing body form where body beauty expressed a classical form through a dress under the influence of neo-classicalism that desires to return to nature.

• 건축역사연구
• /
• 제14권4호
• /
• pp.59-72
• /
• 2005

Architectural embodiment of a national identity has long been a significant topic in Korean architectural circles. For this reason, it must be helpful to examine the so-called, 'National Romanticism' of Finnish architecture around 1900 in that Finnish architects of the time struggled to embody their national identity through their projects. Considering the historical and linguistic affinities between Finland and Korea, the Finnish architectural situation draws . our additional attention. This paper aims at showing its historical background, the meaning of each type of buildings in the stream, and limitations it implies. The atmosphere of Finnish nationalist movement, which was provoked by [Kalevala] publications (1835; 1845) and shown in Karelianism, was heightened by Tsarist Empire's Russification programme of Finland in the late 19th century Architecture was one of the most important genres expressing her national identity. Finnish national romantic architecture could be divided into three. The first is a log house style for artists' studio house, motivated by the Finnish vernacular farmstead - especially by Karelian farmhouse. This type of building signifies the Finns' will to return to their motherly soil. The second is a stone architecture style for public buildings, inspired by Finnish church or castle of an early medieval time. By using roughly-cut granite as the main exterior material, buildings of this type symbolise the toughness of legendary heroes and Finns' desire for national Independence. The third type of building was based on both of the former or more dependent on architects' Imagination and creativity. However, Finnish national romantic architecture has been criticised by some critics owing to its decorative, eclectic and self-indulgent characteristics. Probably, it was not really national but rather inter-national because of the Influences of English Arts and Crafts Movement, the American Richardsonian architecture and the continental Art Nouveau. And the negative images of 'national' and 'romantic' made some historians coin other terms like 'national realism' or 'material realism'. As another limitation, one raises the low degree of its contribution to the entire architectural history. Despite these criticisms, however, this paper argues that Finnish national romantic architecture is meaningful in itself, particularly because it illustrates vividly Finns' struggle to search for their national identity and, after all, their craving for national independence.

• 복식
• /
• 제63권2호
• /
• pp.82-97
• /
• 2013

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the change of men and women's costumes in late 18th century and early 19th century in view of its ideological streams by examining the portraits of the painter Jacques-Louis David. The method of investigation used was to select 29 pieces of portraits from 1766 to 1825, which showed the clear descriptions about the costumes and to analyze the costume's forms, ornaments and the headdress. The category was divided into 3 stages in terms of the changes in costume. The first stage, from 1766 until 1788, is the one of turnaround from the Rococo costume to the early neoclassical one. The typical Rococo costume was incrementally transformed into a simpler design without ornaments, and then natural silhouette in men and women's costumes started to appear from 1783 until 1788. This might be attributed to the neoclassical trend which was affected by the enlightenment ideology. The second stage, from 1788 until 1795, is the period of change from the costume of the early neoclassic style to the typical neoclassic style and also the time from the 1793 to 1795 was regarded as the peak of neoclassic style when the effect of enlightenment began to decrease while one of neoclassicism exerted its strong influence on the costume. The third stage, from 1795 until 1825, similar to the previous neoclassical style was also notable in its turning into producing the empire dress of Empire style. From 1820 on, it was a period that showed signs of influence from romanticism while the effect of neoclassicism started to become more diminished.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제17권1호
• /
• pp.105-119
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to grasp the aesthetic characteristics of the retro romantic fashion. As a result of study, three artistic characteristics of the retro romantic fashion were presented. First, retro romantic fashion has an exaggerated formativeness. Retro romantic fashion has overcome the confinement of the present to imitate the splendor and decorative style of the past which results in exaggeration. Exaggerated costume tends to be spaciously bigger and emphasizes one particular part which offers implicated significance for the space between the body and the costume. A new visual fashion is created through this space. Second, retro romantic fashion encompasses gorgeous decorativeness. From an artistic point of view, decorations are part of impulsively formulated art. Artistic effects of such decorations are uniformly confirmed in various artistic states. Therefore, through gorgeous decorations, retro romantic fashion rejects artificiality and lack of sensitivity for new effects of aesthetics through expression of stronger artistic and spiritual desires. Third, retro romantic fashion expresses pluralistic retro. The current society has left the formalities of the modernism for a pluralistic society where openness, diversity, and uniqueness are respected. Such components of the pluralistic society are repetitively used in fashion. Time reflective retro romantic fashion is being recreated by borrowing images rather than replaying the historical contents, with the style, silhouette, and specific items that swayed in the past, being combined with modern materials, techniques, and designs. Literature review were conducted for this study. Literature review on retro romanticism encompassed resources on aesthetics, literature and art, including national and international fashion related literatures.

• 영어영문학
• /
• 제56권5호
• /
• pp.973-998
• /
• 2010

This paper aims at assessing the significance of Lyrical Ballads of 1798, the agreed inaugurator of English Romanticism, in terms of such key concepts as poetic "experiments," "conversation," and the authorial function. The 1798 volume marks an interesting incidence in which an author with no tangible substantiality can wield his authorial function over his works. The volume is signed without the named proper noun-its author is neither William Wordsworth nor Samuel Taylor Coleridge. The figure of the author in this case is realized by the poems he writes; he produces, and is produced by, his works-a fact that constitutes part of the poetic experiments manifested in the Advertisement. Working under this reciprocal production, the Author of the 1798 volume and his poems are collectively aiming at establishing a new class of poetry and an interpretive community. The notion of "conversation" is a key element in the thematic, stylistic ties among individual poems. Poems of the 1798 volume effect multi-layered, "blended" voices. Readers are expected to draw out the topological interweaving among poems through the practices of dialogic reading. In this light, the sequential necessity of "The Rime" and "Tintern Abbey" should be emphasized. They are stitched together in a logic of textual placement and the transition from one to the other is never arbitrary. Most of all, they are working under the same authorial function, complementing each other, and addressing the same poetic project in different textual locations. As an inaugural work of English Romanticism, Lyrical Ballads of 1798 in fact makes so many things happen and yet again anticipates something yet to come with elusiveness. The value of this poetic experiments should be judged not only by what is claimed in it, but what it sets out to do and "how far" it will be performed, as implied in the Advertisement. The efficacy of the volume, more than anything else, is dependent upon the performative power of words.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
• /
• 제16권1호
• /
• pp.31-38
• /
• 2007

This study investigated and compared regional features of Aalto's buildings and Gaudi's on the assumption that their designs are based on the regional backgrounds. For it, two churches of each one we selected and analyzed about five divided spaces like disposition, the exterior, plan, structure and introduction and use of the sunlight. As result of analysis, following conclusions are induced: first, Aalto's church design and Gaudi's we similar in which they reflected the thought of regionalistic design. Nevertheless they are deferred in which Aalto accepted the international functionalism but Gaudi rejected it due to his deep belief. Second, they followed the tradition of the regional architecture. Third, both of them took in consideration the nature, but due to the difference of the contexts they are deferred in its use. Finally, both gave importance to the sunlight. But Aalto is from the country where lacks the light while Gaudi is from the country where abounds the light, so its use is different. This investigation shows several possibilities of design under the influence of its regional culture, which gets more important in this century.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권3호
• /
• pp.129-142
• /
• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제46권10호
• /
• pp.37-48
• /
• 2008

This study re-examines new aesthetic values pursued by Givenchy, analyzing by the Haute Couture line's chief designers. The following conclusions have been reached: Hubert de Givenchy pursued modernity, infused with simplicity and structured stability. In particular, Audrey Hepburn, who was a loyal client and used his line in several movies, provided him the platform for international exposure which he used to further develop what became known as the "Hepburn" style. The subsequent brief tenure of John Galliano did yield the fantastic and magnificent "Galliano-style", but with irregularity. Based on romanticism, it redefined fashion using a wide range of colors, subjects and decoration. His successor, Alexander McQueen, applied opposite elements using a hybrid technique of pastiche, parody and collage. With innovative inspiration he compromised the concepts of gender, time, space and cultures and recreated futuristic forms of nature, animals, insects and mythical images. Julien Macdonald, who was appointed in 2001 as the Artistic Director for the women's collections, minimized his individual style and preferred feminine, graceful and sexy silhouettes. He breathed fresh life in to Givenchy Haute Couture, reinterpreting the Hepburn style in a modernistic mode. Being passed on the responsibility for both collections (i.e., haute couture and ready-to-wear) in 2005, Riccardo Tisci redefined elegance, combining his unique and tailored gothic style with Givenchy's grace. He is developing the future of Givenchy, experimenting with volume, silhouettes, new kinds of fabric and techniques.