• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.25-33
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• 2005

Melanocytes synthesize melanin within discrete organelle termed melanosomes which are transferred to the surrounding keratinocytes and can be produced in varying sizes, numbers and densities. Skin whitening products have become increasingly popular in the past few years. The most successful natural skin whitening agents are: arbutin, vitamin C, kojic acid, and mulberry, which are all tyrosinase inhibitors. In this work, melanoston, a melanogenesis inhibitor isolated from yeast was studied to understand its mechanism of melanogenesis inhibition. It was found that melanoston was not a tyrosinase inhibitor, while when melanoston was applied to the B16 melanoma cell culture media, the intracellular tyrosinase activity was decreased by more than $30\%$. When B16 melanoma was stimulated with $\alpha$-MSH, cell morphololgy was dramatically changed to have lots of dendrites on the cell membrane surface. On the other hand, B16 was treated with $\alpha$-MSH and melanoston, simultaneously, the change of cell morphologv was not so great. This inhibitory effect of melanoston was found to be related to the inhibition of intracellar activation and transportation of tyrosinase, which was observed by irmmunostaining of B16 melanoma using anti-tyrosinase antibody. From these results, melanoston was regarded as an inhibitor to the differentiation of melanoma cells.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.183-193
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• 2016

This study attempted to investigate the possibility of the use of Morinda citrifolia (MC) as a cosmetic ingredient from its physiological activities such as antioxidant activity, cytotoxicity and anti-aging effect. MC is a tropical plant that has been used as traditional polynesian foods and medicines for over two thousand years. It has been reported that this shrub can improve antimicrobial, anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory effects and strengthen an immune system. The in vitro antioxidant activity of MC was performed to see the DPPH scavenging activity by measuring total polyphenol content and total flavonoid content. As a result, a lack of any cytotoxicity was confirmed in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) cell. When MC extract at a concentration of over $50{\sim}100{\mu}g/mL$ was added, MMP-1 expression considerably diminished. In an in vivo test, in addition, cream containing MC extract was prepared and applied to a total of 22 women in their 30 ~ 50s in ages in the morning and in the evening for four weeks. Changes in keratin, melanin index, pore, skin color and wrinkles under the naked eyes were then comparatively measured. Keratin levels slightly increased in the control group but decreased in the experimental group. In addition, wrinkles diminished in the experimental group. This study found that MC extract controls many MMP-1 related mechanisms with great potential for use as a natural ingredient of anti-aging cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.73-83
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• 2015

Dendropanax morbifera Leveille (Araliaceae) is an endemic species growing in the south-western part of South Korea and has been used in folk medicine. However, the effects of Dendropanax morbifera Lev. on skin biology remain to be elucidated. In this study, we isolated 1-tetradecanol and ${\beta}$-sitosterol from the n-hexane fraction of Dendropanax mobifera Lev. and To investigate the whitening effect of the fraction, we tested the inhibition of tyrosinase activity of 1-tetradecanol. The results show that the inhibitory effect of the 1-tetradecanol was higher than water extract and n-hexane fraction. And 1-tetradecanol significantly reduced melanin contents of B16F10 cells compared to more than water extract and n-haxane fraction dose-dependantly without cell cytotoxicitiy (below $100{\mu}g/mL$). We also investigated the skin moisturizing effect using HR-1 hairless mice. The transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the 1-tetradecanol treated group was significantly smaller than that in the other groups. To investigate the effect of the preventing hair loss by ${\beta}$-sitosterol, we observed HR-1 hairless mice through periodic growth feature. The results suggest that hair loss of mice by ${\beta}$-sitosterol was delayed and it's hair density showed the highest. These data provide evidence that Dendropanax morbifera Lev. may be a potent candidate for the improvement of both skin whitening, moisturizing and alopecia from the point of cosmetic industry view.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.170-176
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• 2007

In this study, extract of Ailanthus altissimawere prepared using hot water under high pressure. The extract were examined for election donating ability (EDA), superoxide dismuase (SOD)-like activity, nitrite scavenging ability (NSA), xanthine oxidase inhibition levels, and tyrosinase inhibition ability. The EDA, using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl method of root extract was 91.25% at 1.0mg/mL. The SOD-like activity of leaf extract was highest at 49.07% and the NSA was 93.33% at pH 1.2, and 85.40% at pH 3.0. The xanthine oxidase inhibitory levels of extracts of A. altissima roots, stems, and leaves were 92.09 97.44% when the extract were tested at 2.0mg/mL. The highest tyrosinase inhibition levels obtained from loot extract were 67.38% at 2.0mg/mL and 63.97% at 0.1mg/mL.

• Korean Journal of Clinical Laboratory Science
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.363-370
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• 2021

This study was conducted to evaluate the dermal cytotoxicity of lead acetate (LA) and other heavy metal compounds, and the protective effect of Lespedeza bicolor (LB) extract on LA-induced cytotoxicity in cultured B16-/F10 melanoma cells. The study evaluated the antioxidative effects of LB due to its electron-donating ability (EDA), inhibitory effects on melanization and improving cell viability. LA significantly decreased cell viability in a dose-dependent manner, and the XTT₅₀ value was determined at 52.7 µM in the studied cultures. Based on the Borenfreund and Puerner's toxicity criteria, LA was estimated to be highly cytotoxic. LA-induced cytotoxicity and cell damage was reversed by the antioxidant activity of kaempferol (KAE), thereby remarkably improving cell viability. A study of the protective effects of the LB extract on LA-induced cytotoxicity showed that the LB extract remarkably increased cell viability in the LA-treated group, and also inhibited the EDA and the total amount of melanin. The above results suggest oxidative stress-mediated cytotoxicity of LA. In the study, LB extract effectively prevented LA-induced cytotoxicity via its antioxidative activity and inhibition of melanization. In conclusion, natural resources like LB extracts may be useful agents for the prevention of oxidative stress-mediated cytotoxicity and melanization by heavy metallic compounds such as LA.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.220-227
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• 2019

Stevia rebaudiana (Asteraceae), a perennial plant, has been used as a low-calorie sweetener and is being developed as a therapeutic agent for diabetes, hypertension, myocardial diseases, and microbial infections. Despite the common use of its leaves and stem, the bioavailability of the components present in S. rebaudiana flowers, when used as ingredients of cosmetics, has not been well investigated. Herein, we investigated the antioxidative and antimelanogenic effects of an aqueous extract of S. rebaudiana flowers (Stevia-F). Total flavonoid and phenolic content in Stevia-F were determined to be $8.64{\pm}0.23mg$ of quercetin equivalents/100 g and $631.5{\pm}2.01mg$ of gallic acid equivalents/100 g, respectively. The $IC_{50}$ values of Stevia-F for reducing power, and 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl-hydrate radical, hydrogen peroxide, and nitric oxide scavenging activities were 5541.96, 131.39, 466.34, and $10.44{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Stevia-F showed inhibitory effects on the tyrosinase ($IC_{50}=134.74{\mu}g/mL$) and ${\alpha}$-glucosidase ($IC_{50}=114.81{\mu}g/mL$) activities. No significant cytotoxicity of Stevia-F was observed in B16F10 cells, treated with up to $100{\mu}g/mL$ of the extract for 24 and 48 h (p > 0.05). Stevia-F ($1-100{\mu}g/mL$) suppressed ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone-induced melanin production in B16F10 cells (p < 0.05) and also inhibited the cellular tyrosinase activity (p < 0.05). Overall, our results show that Stevia-F possesses potential for inhibiting tyrosinase and ${\alpha}$-glucosidase activities and has significant antioxidant capacity. The antimelanogenic potential of Stevia-F should extend the usage of S. rebaudiana flowers in the development of skin-whitening products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.437-445
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• 2018

In this study, we analyzed two components, sulforaphane and PF-3758309 to prove that the mixed composition of them has more effective antioxidant and whitening functions compared to each component. We analyzed the cellular toxicity of each component and also the mixed composition to find the safe concentration level for cell viability. From the single component treatment, we discovered that sulforaphane was safe up to $10{\mu}M$, and PF-3758309 up to 100 nM. Combination treatment of $10{\mu}M$ sulforaphane and 1 nM PF-3758309 did not affect the cell viability. The LPS-stimulated NO generation was significantly reduced by the mixed composition of sulforaphane and PF-3758309. Melanogenesis by ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone (${\alpha}$-MSH) was also inhibited by the mixed composition. In order to confirm the possibility as the cosmetic material, we carried out clinical studies for the mixed composition samples. Skin safety evaluation using patch test was judged to be unstimulated, skin whitening effect was increased, and melanin deposition was suppressed by treatment of mixed composition samples. These results provide us with the opportunity for applying it into the development of new functional cosmetics.

• Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.175-180
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• 2019

Torilis Japonica (TJ) has been used as an anti-allergy, antifungal, and antibacterial agent. Recent studies have reported that it also shows anti-cancer effects. It is report that TJ inhibits melanin synthesis in melanocyte in the skin. However, the effect and mechanism of TJ extract (TJE) on Ultraviolet (UV)B-induced photoaging are unknown. In this study, we investigated the preventive effects of TJE on matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and MMP-3 expressions and the underlying molecular mechanism in UVB-irradiated primary human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). The effect of TJE on HDF cell viability was determined using the XTT assay and cell counting. MMP-1 and MMP-3 expressions levels were measured by western blotting and real-time PCR analysis. Activations of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPKinase), nuclear $factor-{\kappa}B$ ($NF-{\kappa}B$), and activator protein-1(AP-1) were measured by western blotting. Our results showed that TJE effectively reduced UVB-induced MMP-1 and MMP-3 protein and mRNA levels. Moreover, TJE significantly blocked the UVB-induced activation of MAPK (p38 and JNK) and transcription factors ($NF-{\kappa}B$ and AP-1), but not ERK. Taken together, our results suggest that the TJE inhibits UVB-induced MMP expressions in HDFs and its may be a potential agent for the prevention and treatment of skin photoaging.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.651-661
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• 2021

Eruca sativa, called arugula, is a perennial plant in the Brassicaceae family, an edible plant commonly used in Italian cuisine. To study as a cosmetic material application E. sativa was extracted with 70% ethanol (ES). Then ES was fractionated using n-hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, n-butyl alcohol and water (EHex, EEA, ECHCl₃, EBuOH and EDW). EEA showed mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity. ES, EEA and EBuOH showed inhibition of tyrosinase activity. As a result, ES is expected to have skin whitening efficacy. ES was applied to 0.05, 0.1% the toner and emulsion formulation to test the stability. The anti-microbial activity of eight bacteria and fungi including Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes which cause dermatitis and acne was evaluated. EEA showed effects in all of microorganisms. The toner and emulsion containing ES with 0.05, 0.1% were passed in the challenge test. At -20, 4, 25, 55 ℃ and daylight, there was no significant change on pH, viscosity for 4 months. However, emulsions had phase separation phenomenon at 55 ℃, so the base formulation needs improvement. In addition, through the skin penetration test, EEA penetrated 0.058% in 6 hr, predicting the clinical efficacy. This means that E. sativa can contribute whitening agent and the synergistic effect of preservatives.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.353-360
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• 2021

In this study, the skin whitening and anti-wrinkle activity of Abelmoschus manihot (A. manihot) flowers were evaluated as a cosmetic material. A. manihot flowers were extracted using water and 70% ethanol. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity was evaluated to increase concentration-dependent inhibitory activity in both water (AMW) and 70% ethanol extracts (AME), and was found to inhibit melanin biosynthesis at concentrations that did not affect survival in B16F10 cell lines at 10, 25, 50, 75, and 100 ㎍/mL. As a result of measuring the anti-wrinkle effectiveness of A. manihot flowers, 70% ethanol extract (AME) showed higher anti-wrinkle activity than water extract (AMW). Through the results of this study, it is considered that the A. manihot flower extract can be used as a functional cosmetic material with whitening and anti-wrinkle activity.