• 복식
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• 제6권
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• pp.121-143
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• 1982

Many studies have done on Egyptian Clothing because its unique characteristic culture. However, I was facinated by the exhibitions of Tutankhamen burial treasures which were shown in San Francisco and New York in 1978 and 1979. I found out myself that there are several interesting aspects of clothing to compare 18th dynasty king, Tutankhamun and other dynasties in Egyptian culture. Therefore, I tryed to analized the Egyptian clothing including accessaries with theigr symbols durin 18th dynasty King, Tutankhamun. The most of people were shocked and amazed when they toured the exhibition of Tutankhamun articles which were the most incredible burial treasures in existence today. The body of the King has been embalmed, bandaged and fitted in eight layers of coffins with pure gold mask to represent the god Osiris. Among eight layers of coffins, one is pure solid gold in mummiform, two of mummiforms are made of compact wood covered with sheets of gold and inlaid with multi-colored glass-paste and semi-precious stones. The Egyptian belived that the soul continued to exist throughout eternity if it had passed on examination of its deeds on earth at a "Last Judgement" presided over by Osiris. They also believed that the mummified body could exist in the tomb as a habitation that the soul could revisited. Thus a proper burial was vital for a full existence in the hereafter. They buried dead person in the sealed vault of the tomb with some of the possessions he had used during his life time, such as his furniture, clothing and jewels. In this studies, I've tried to research to various clothings, and accessories with their symbols used during 18th dynasty king, Tutankhamun. The studies are shown as: I) Clothings of Tutankhamun dynasity of Kalasiris, Sheath skirt. Gala skirt, Loin skirt, Hike and Dalmatic. The Dalmatic was first seen in this dynasty. Probably the Roman Christian borrowed the Dalmatica from Egyptian Dalmatic. No where has the same design at the period. II) Egyptian of 18th dynasty Tutankhamun wore big headdress, broad collar necklace passium, pendants, armlets, rings and earrings with very beautiful, exquisite handcraft. They seem the first people who wore earrings in Egyptian history. III) The symbols of decorated items vulture, lotus...Upper Egypt Uraeus, papyrus...Lower Egypt scaravaeus, Nile Riber...rebirth man(Ankh), +...eternal life solar disc, gold...sun ostrich-feather...nobleness God, Horus' eye...protection against enemy IV) Also Egyptian prefered the straight line and a right angle which were the basic principles of architectural arrangement.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2007

The subject of study concerns the color characteristics of clothing/accessories from �Chosun�a nd modern Korea. It particularly focuses on the colors of the �Jeogori? traditional jacket) which represents Korean traditional clothing. Color data were collected from 353 woman�s �Jegori�s from �Chosun�a nd modern Korea and divided into the predominant colors & sub colors, and analyzed with HV/C and PCCS. According to the analysis, the representative the predominant color of 'Chosun Jeogori' for woman is YR, Y and side one is R, YR. The p, dp, sf, ltg colors are frequently found and the freshness of most of them is medium or low which shows a calm-feeling. The p, and ltg tones are often found as a the predominant color and p, dp are also often found as a the side color. In the 'Chosun Jeogori' for woman, the predominant colors and the side colors spread in a similar frequency and most of them have medium or low freshness of the color that shows a calm-feeling. The side color is one of the R colors and it shows characteristics of traditional coloring such as �Jajoo Goreum? Among the �Jeogori�f or modern women, the R, YR, Y, and B colors are often used for the single-color �Jeogori? the Y, GY, N, G colors are for the colorful �Jeogori? The P, lt, and b tons of the color are often used for a single-color �Jeogori�a nd the p, lt, and W are for the colorful �Jeogori? For the colorful �Jeogori? the side color have a high freshness which shows that a strong image was used frequently as the dp, s, dk tons of the color were often used. According to an analysis of the coloring, the predominant color and the side color of �Chosun Jeogori�a re applied to create a harmony of analogy & contrast in one aspect of Moon & Spencer�s view. It is found that the predominant color and the side color are similar or contrasting in one view of the color harmony, except that the traditional the �Jeogori�i s colored by ideological and symbolic meanings. The predominant color and the side color of modern the �Jeogori�a re complementary colors which are applied to the indistinct relationship or contrasting harmony in one aspect of Moon & Spencer�s view of the color harmony. The characteristics of the color as above show that traditional the �Jeogori�r egards the side color as both the harmony of the colors in general and also of symbolic meaning, while modern the �Jeogori�f or woman has a tendency toward a cultural transition and is mixed with new colors focusing more on its the predominant color than on the general harmony and character of ideological & traditional coloring.

• 복식
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• 제25권
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• pp.249-268
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• 1995

Parody has recently prevailed as one of the important techniques of creation in art. The purposes of this study are to reaffirm the pos-ition of fashion as an art by clarifying parody depicted in fashion and to make an opportunity to reconsider the meaning of creation in fashion design through the significance of par-ody. For these purposes, documentary studies about parody in literature and art which had been discussed more often were preceded as a framework of this research. framework of this research. Basedd upon that, parody phenomena in fashion as well as art were analyzed. The synthetic results are as follows ; 1. Parody is a kind or critical technique and can be conceived as a process of creation. The established primary style (material) which is well-known and familiar is imitated and then is recreated in new manner through the three types of parodization, that is, the change of its external form, the change of its internal mean-ing and the shift from its place (i.e. displace-ment). 2. Parody in fashion is also analyzed based upon the three types of parodization which designer's will and expression is necessarily required. First, the parody through the change of external form is to have its effect of novelty, unexpectedness, playfulness, wit, mackery, satire, irony, paradox by changing the form of the original through imitation with similarity, transformation, exaggeration, em-phasis. Second, the parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about paradox, irony, contempt, satire, unex-pectedness by applying the original to inappro-priate subject through its substitution, inver-sion. Third, the parody through displacement is to pursue a jarring incongruity that results from shifting the original to other context. Its effect consists of paradox, unexpectedness, playfulness, ridicule, mockery, satire, irony. In general, the parody technique in fashion can be used to have an intention of expressing seriousness, playfulness, satire, grotesque. The representative designers using the parody technique are Lagerfeld, Ricci, YSL, Yama-moto, Castelbajac, Gaultier, Mugler, West-sood, Steiner and so on. 3. Parody is the technique which imitates and then recreates the preceding style ; is at the same time the method which challenges the existing concept of originality-singleness and uniqueness. It reflects the more flexible concept of modern creation in art as well as fashion. The imitation as the creation, the characteristic of parody is recognized as an creative expressiveness, publicity, intention. Thus it differenciates from copy which is uncritical mimicry.

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.181-199
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• 1999

The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

• 복식
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.35-48
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• 2003

The primary goal of this study is to define the future image of modern fashion. By review of many references, this study has examined predictable future in common, various researches on future, and futurism that appeared from art history. This study has also identified the trend of future image and the properties of the image in terms of fashion as well. The purpose of this study is defined as future image of modern fashion. First of all. through a large literature, this study is to examine general future and the study of future, to investigate futurism appears from art history. and to identify the trend of future image and the properties of the image in terms of fashion. The main results of this study include : 1) General future means forthcoming sometime or a state of life at that time, and future is not drawing near naturally in accordance with the passage of time. The future is developed according as which the owners of time have independent meaning and what they select. 2) The futurism had started with the background based on Darwins and Einsteins scientific theories and Bergsons and Nietzsches philosophical thoughts, which was then established by Marinettis Futurism Statement and Dynamism Theory of Umberto Boccionio, Giaomo Balla, Luigi Russolo and Gino Severini. As the purpose of futurism is to represent the dynamism of machinery and the beauty of speed, it has been developed toward op art and kinetic art including video art, laser art, and holography. 3) Fashion style and trend of futurism from the beginning of 20th century up to now can be defined as follows : Firstly futurism fashion represented by loud colors and geometric pattern appeared from 1910s to 1930s in the first place. Secondly, or art fashion and kinetic fashion appeared in 1960s due to the influence of op art and kinetic art which were developmental arts of futurism paintings. Space Look and Cosmo Corps Look that were designed by Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin, Rudi Gernreich and Paco Rabanne, were also the trend of future image fashion. Thirdly, various materials and techniques developed this future image fashion in 1980s, and Glitter Look and Collage Look were its representative style. Fourthly, in 1990s, human beings dreamed the freedom of mind by human-oriented thought. and created the ecology of new concept mixed with technology due to anxiety on environmental destruction. which influenced on the advent of Zen style.

• 복식
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.53-67
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• 2002

자연을 분석함으로써, 얻어진 기하학적 패턴은 이미 자연의 질서를 포함하고 있는 논리적이고 합리적인 기본형이기 때문에 간결하며 시각적으로 명쾌감을 준다. 이러한 기하학적 패턴은 복식 디자인에 있어서 20 세기 이후 여러 디자이너의 작품을 통해 재구성되어 현대적 이미지를 나타내는 중요한 모티브가 되고 있으며, 다양한 기법과 재료로 형성화하여 도입되고 있다. 이에 본 연구는 복식의 문양, 실루엣, 디테일에 사용되고 있는 기하학적 패턴을 연구함으로써 기하학적 패턴의 새로운 조형가치를 고찰하였다. 먼저 기하학의 용어 정의를 하였고 기하학적 패턴의 유형과 표현 기법을 분석하고 정리하여 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학적 패턴의 조형미와 그것을 바탕으로 패션 이미지를 추론해 보았다. 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학 패턴을 분석해 보면 유형으로는 첫째, 기하하적 문양으로 복식디자인에 있어서 주로 평면적인 형태로 많이 나타나지만, 크기가 다르고 동일한 기하학적 패턴을 조합시킴으로서 평면적인 형태에 공간감을 부여하기도 하며, 같은 기하학적 패턴의 표면이라도 배치구조에 의해 직선 혹은 사선으로 지각되므로 전혀 다른 이미지를 주었다. 또한 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학적 패턴이 종류는 세로 스트라이프, 가로 스트라이프, 격자 문양, 원, 사선 스트라이프, 마름모, 사각형, 삼각형 등의 순서로 많이 나타났다. 둘째, 색채는 단색의 복식에 강한 대비가 이루어지는 색상으로 표현되어 역동감과 유연한 운동감을 나타났다. 셋째, 기하학적 실루엣으로 단순한 라인의 형태를 나타내거나 입체적이고 부조적인 형태로 구성되어 전체적인 실루엣으로 사용되어 강한 조형감각을 보여주는데 원형을 이용한 실루엣이 가장 많았으며 사각형을 이용한 실루엣, 삼각형을 이용한 실루엣 순서로 나타났다. 넷째, 기하학적인 디테일로 복식의 어느 한 부분에 장식적으로 사용되거나 입체적 형태로 부출 되어 부조적인 느낌을 주는데 소매에 가장 많이 나타났으며 앞여밈, 칼라, 밑단, 주머니 순서로 장식되었다. 다섯째, 현대 패션에 표현된 기하학적 패턴의 표현기법으로는 프린팅, 퀼팅, piece기법, 패치워크, 엮기, 꼴라쥬, 아플리케 순서로 많이 나타났다. 위의 분석을 토대로 기하학 패턴을 활용한 디자인에 내재된 조형의지는 다음과 같이 정리되었다. 첫째, 기하학적 패턴이 지닌 단순성과 경직성을 완화하기 위하여 여러 가지 패브릭을 조합시켜 입체적인 표면효과로 시각적인 착시효과를 극대화하였다. 둘째, 표현기법은 입체파적 표현주의의 특성의 하나로 복시에 사용되는 소재의 왜곡으로 설명할 수 있으며, 새롭고 실험적인 소재의 도입으로 인해 의외성과 부조화를 유발시키는 통시에 유희직인 일면도 지니는 일종의 그로테스크를 나타냈다. 이상에서 정립된 조형의지를 바탕으로 현대 패션에 나타란 기하학 패턴은 절제된 단순함과 명확성으로 단순미가 유추되었고 강한 색상대비로 인한 시각적 집중효과로 주목성을 가지며 재현이 가능하므로 반복성이 유추되었다. 그리고 표준영역이 없는 창의적 표현으로 풍부한 독창성을 보여주고 있다. 또한 내재된 패션 이미지를 분석해 보면 정확함과 차가움의 의미를 지닌 이지적 이미지와 우주의 질서를 반영하는 상징적 이미지, 복잡한 자연으로부터 간결한 형태로의 경향성이 이루어낸 인공적 이미지를 느낄 수 있었으며, 미래적 이미지와 전통적 이미지의 상반된 개념의 이미지를 같이 내포하고 있음을 추론할 수 있었다. 이와 같이 현대 패션에 표현된 기하학적 패턴은 복식을 조형예술 분야로 확실히 인식시키고 발전시키는 데 중요한 촉매제 역할을 담당하고 있으며 또한 많은 디자이너들에게 창조적 욕구를 불러일으키고 영감을 주는데 중요한 모티브를 제공하고 있다.

• 복식
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• 제33권
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• pp.55-72
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• 1997

우리나라 복식산업의 전문인력 양식은 주로 대학교나 전문학원에서 이루어지고 있으며 수적인면에서는 충분한 인력이 양성되고 있다. 그러나 질적인 면에서 산업체에서 요구되는 역량을 가진 전문인은 부족한 편이다. 이에 따라 산업체의 요구에 부합하는 인력야성을위하여 교육과정의 개선이 절실히 요구되고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 실기교육 산학협력 및 산업체 현장실습이 활발히 이루어지고 있는 영국의 복식관련학과에 대하여 조사해 봄으로써 우리 교육의 개선방향을 모색하고자 한다. 영구의 경우 다양한 자격증 및 학위과정이 개설되어있으나 본 연구에서는 우리나라 학사학위에 해당되는 BA 및 Bsc만대상으로 하였으며 설문조사 문헌조사 및 사례연구를 통하여 현황 및 교과과정을 분석하였다 영국의 복식관련학과들은 그 교과과정 및 내용에 따라 크게 6개 전공분야로 분류되었으며 각 하과는 다시 세분화되어 전문성이 있는 교육이 이루어지고 있었다 또한 수업연한 및 과정의 형태에 따라 5개 유형으로 분류되었다, 이유형 중 특히 일년간의 현장실습을 학위과정으로 포함시켜 의무적으로 산업체에 근무하도록 되어있는 Sandwic Mode는 적극적인 산학협력의 한 형태로 매우 효율적으로 평가되는 교육체계이며 여러다른 학문 분야에서도 널리 활용되고 있는 체계이다. 교수진의 경우 전임교원이 수적인 면에서 다소 부족한 것으로 나타났으나 관련 산업체 인사 등을 시간강사로 고용함으로써 이를 보완 할 뿐 아니라 산학연계를 이루고 있었다. 또한 전임교원의 경우 주로 학사 혹은 석사의 학력을 가지고있었다. 그러나 모든 전임교수 뿐 아니라 시간강사의 경우도 산업체 경력을 필수 적으로 가지고있어 고학력위주의 우리나라 실정과는 매우 상이했다. 교과과정에 대한 사례연구에서 직물디자인에 집중된 2개 과의 교과과정을 보았으며 그중 한 개 과는 다시 편물 프린트 및 직물 디자인의 3분야로 세분화되어 심도 있는 교육이 이루어질 수 있는 것을 살펴보았다 또한 다른 3개의 예에서 볼수있듯이 2개 이상의 전공코스를 도입하여 공통과목과 전공 코스 과목을 둠으로써 시설 및 인적 자원의 활용 등 운영상 효율성을 추구함을 알수 있었다 또한 학생들의 경우 전문화된 코스의 선택을 할수 있게 하였다 이런 실례는 전문인력양성이 매우 필요하고 따라서 전공코스제의 도입의 필요성이 대두되고 있는 이시점에서 매우 유용하게 이용될수 있으리라고 생각된다. 영구의 교육이 우리나라 실정에 그대로 적용될 수는 없지만 본 연구 결과를 바탕으로 다음과 같은 시사점을 고려하여 우리교육을 개선해 나갈 수 있으리라고 생각한다. 첫째 교수진 인적 물적상황 및 지역적 상황등을 분석하여 각 대학별로 그 특성에 맞는 세분화되고 심도있는 전공교육과정을 개발 발전시켜 야 할 것이다 둘째 산업체 방문 산업체인사와의 면담 및 특강 등 산학협력을 좀더 적극적으로 모색하여야 할 것이다. 셋째 학생들의 산업체 현장 연수를 실질적으로 도입하여 산업체의 인력요구에 적극적으로 대처 할수 있어야 하겠다.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.94-114
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• 2001

Men's Po of (he Chosun period became simple and stable in shape as the nation moved from its early to late period. Re lines of the external structure of the clothing shows the beauty of the garment. Re lines generally derive their beauty from curved lines, gradually replacing the straight lines of the earlier part of the Chosun period. The linear beauty of the external structure of men's Po is found in the outline and silhouette. Generally in the early Chosun period it could be seen that H-shaped silhouettes, narrowed strips and flexible drapes descending to the ankles were still in use from the period of the Koryo dynasty And in the 17th century, or the mid Chosun period, considerable numbers of H-shaped drapes with wide sleeves and side Moo were seen. At the beginning of the 18th century, voluminous A-shaped outlines appeared. From the late Chosun period through the mid and late Chosun period, or the 18th and 19th centuries, the from silhouette changed from voluminous A-shapes to narrower H-shapes. The beauty of the lines of the external structure of men's Po is due to its harmonising with the straight body lines of men. The straight Git of the early Chosun period harmonises beautifully with the straight Baerae and Doryun and the curved Git of the later Chosun period similarly harmonises with the curved Baerae and Doryun lines. The shape of men's Po has a balance betweon right and left, centering around the Sup lines. The sleeves have the balanced beauty of vertical lines. Git and Sup have beauty through the balance of oblique and straight lines while Baerae and Doryun have similar balances through curves. Jikrung, Chulik, Dapho's side Moo, coat strings, Doryun and sleeves drape, all of which are manufactured by means of plane cutting, Pow together beautifully. Re Git, Sup, and the silhouette and drape of men's Po, which are also manufactured through plane cutting, make the wearer look tall and at the same time express the beauty of mature manhood. The linear beauty shown in men's Po during the Chosun Period have beauty through harmonizing with straight and curved lines, beauty balance, beauty of flow, beutity of emphasis and beauty of optical illusion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.152-166
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• 2009

By virtue of the development of mass media, the cinema, the composite space art taking the visual and auditory elements together, exhibits the actual life of the realities, thereby having a mutually close relationship to social, cultural and economic fields and continuing to generate the fashion code as well as reflecting the image of the times. Especially, fashion style in movies delivers their image and atmosphere and becomes the means for containing the personality, spiritual world and inner thinking of the characters in the movie and inducing its plot. Therefore, this study was intended to make clear that fashion fuses and shares with a diversity of genres such as movies and the like, becomes the cultural model that proceeds to create a new culture in relation to daily life and induces and presents the trend of contemporary fashion. For this purpose, this study attempted to analyze fashion style in the movie. Lolita is the fiction published by the Russian?American writer Vladimir Nabokov($1899{\sim}1977$) in 1954. It is the fiction that portrays the unethical love between Humbert, a middleaged man, and Lolita, a girl in her 10s. It was cinematized by the director Stanley Kubrick for the first time in 1962 and revived by the movie director Adrian Lyne in 1997. The character of Lolita has a younger look like a girl and looks immature in the movie directed by the movie director Stanley Kubrick and the movie director Adrian Lyne. But the character of Lolita has the commonality that she showed an incomplete female image of having a sexually freewheeling thinking. Thereby, this study sought to prove that the created fashion style of the character in the film not only became the clue to enable us to know the time and space background in the film but also helped the film develop effectively by performing a role of portraying the character in the movie. And it attempted to present that it becomes both the foundation for leading the fashion trend shown in contemporary fashion and the code of mass culture. Fashion style of Lolita in the movie appears to be reflected diversely in mass culture as well as fashion style in the contemporary times.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.331-336
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• 2003

This study is to research the influence of Caesalpinia sappan which was imported through the exchanges between the Chosun dynasty and Japanese envoys during the early Chosun dynasty. Korea interchanged politically and culturally with Japan since ancient times. Particularly, the good-neighbor foreign policy toward Japan grew into trade relations. The diplomatic mission, under the name of Tongshinsa, was dispatched 12 times in total. Plenty of goods were exchanged through the visiting of Japanese envoys as well as through the activities of Korean envoys. In other words, the Korean-Japanese relations were at first focused on the political and diplomatic etiquette and gradually evolved into economic exchanges. Trading goods were various, including food, clothing, etc. Caesalpinia sappan, a red dye, was the most imported goods from Japan, but it was sold at a very high price, which caused luxurious trends in clothing. However, these sumptuous moods of the upper classes were decreased in the 16th century. Some of the reasons are : the difficulties of Japan's trade with the Caesalpinia sappan producing countries in South-east Asia, the transition of the high classes' preference from red clothing into Chinese BaecSa and SaraNeungDan, and the comparative decrease in the demand of Caesalpinia sappan by the changed understanding of Honghwa. Therefore, the early Chosun dynasty's clothing trends were due to the relationships between the Chosun dynasty and Japan.