• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.90-107
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• 2007

Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. Also, operas are increasingly performed outside traditional theaters as the boundaries between stage and audience become less obvious. Accordingly, stage costumes are being differently designed than before. New attempts are being made to look costumes in a harmony with increasingly streamlined stage machinery. This helps increase public attention on operas, consequently promoting the opera industry. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the crowd are drawn from this study. A variety of splendid pink dresses, ribbons, dolls, hand mirror, and hair bands were used to express haughty girls with "Princess Syndrome." Fashion models, the envy of all woman, wore fashionable clothes including luxury dresses, fur-coats, high heels, purses, and hats, Models also had big shopping bags and gift boxes to symbolize shopping lovers in a modern society. Gay men wore tight leather trousers and vest and sleeves shirts with deeply cut neckline to express their preference for feminie style. their clothes were splendid colors that normally women liked such as gold, purple, light green, scarlet, and silver. Soldiers were in combat uniform representing their participation in the war. In particular, clothes stained with dirt, iron helmet, crutches, and canteens were used to vividly express soldiers coming back home from the war. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency, and meet the audience's needs for various style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.154-164
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the modernizations of traditional Saekdong by analyzing the magazines from the 1955 to 1995. The application of Saekdong extended during the 1950s. Before, Saekdong was only used for children; however, women were wearing it during this period. With the advancement of the fabric industry in the 1960s, a great popularity of Saekdong was witnessed and its application extended even further. During the 1970s, the Saekdong was applied in westernized clothes; however, the 1980s was a time of renaissance for Saekdong as the awakening of national identity movement began. The application of Saekdong in westernized clothes became more popular during the 1990s as the widespread of industrial designing was inspired by the tradition. The functional aspect of Saekdong such as recycling the leftover fabrics decreased over the years whereas the decorative aspect increased. The form of Saekdong became more variant. The Saekdong was applied either as a part or whole of the clothes. With the development of the mechanically woven Saekdong, various widths and forms of Saekdong, not only vertical lines but also diagonal and wave lines, appeared. The colors also changed. During the 1990s, low chroma and gradation methods were applied. Gold and silver threads also were woven together. The motifs were created and gilts were printed on Saekdong.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.270-276
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• 2005

Nowadays, the family system has changed from a large extended family group to a more nuclear family and the number of people who live by themselves has been increasing. Moreover, Korea is becoming an aged society, and pets are becoming more important as leave the family home. So a lot of people in Korea now consider pets as their family members due largely to the drastic change of their life style. Therefore, the rate of importing commodities for pets like cats and dogs has been increasing dramatically. In this study, in response to the growing interest in the pet industry, I have studied recent trends and types in the pets wear markets which are still in the first stage of development in Korea. In order to enhance the possibility of mass producing pets ready-made clothes for making the unit cost lower, firstly, I presented a new basic design and pattern of pets wear made up of general textile. After that, following basic purpose of pet wear, I classified decorative clothes into party wear, everyday wear and street wear and then I developed the pattern and made a pair of works for each item totaling 6 in all. I hope that the number of Korean companies which can enhance their reputation through by marketing these products in Korean as well as all around the world will increase. I believe this will be possible because by taking advantage of the easy pattern developed in this thesis. They will be able to mass produce their own high quality pets wear brand.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.173-183
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• 2004

The techno fashion presents the new formative beauty of fashion with a stream of light and dynamic phenomenon on human body. Also it opens the futurism arising from the combination of technology with fashion. The purpose of this paper was to investigate the internal trend and external form that techno-fashion aims at, and to analyze the expressive characteristics in design. The results were as follows. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion created the new formative artifact through the dismantlement and reorganization of form. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion used the composition of the geometrical abstraction as an expression of beauty symbolizing the modernity. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion created the diverse colors by using the light along with colors of gold, silver, metal, intense fundamental colors, and artificial rotor. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion expressed the dynamism, brilliance, youthfulness, futuristic image by using the sense of dazzling brightness by means of metal. ${\cdot}$ The techho fashion along with the development of science and technology made the atmosphere of silhouette of clothes different by expanding the category of materials more widely, together with the possibility of continual emergence of new material. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion expressed the dynamic movement on clothes and gave the sense of periodical rhythm by the reflective action of light when they were clad. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion grafted wearable technology into the fashion and made the information instruments recognized as a concept of clothes. ${\cdot}$ The techno fashion pursued the values of not only the beauty of the simple geometrical design, but also the values of functionality and expressed the image of high quality of life through the harmony of technology with human.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.313-332
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• 1994

The purpose of this study were as follows : 1) Investigate how to intluence Clothes with time background and trends of art-thought in the twenty century. 2) To understand chronologically how to change hair style Make-up and hair decor-ation. I. 1st and 2nd World War time(1920-1945) The women's social status and their sexual equality was promoted during in this time. 1) African Art Surrealism and Expression art were doninated. 2) The popalar trends were tutular silhoutte (Slim and long) boyish Style and military lookwere popular. 3) The popalar trends of were Eton Crop. short bob gaconne hair style cloche hat. page boy hair style were popular. 4) The trend of make-up which specially. emphasized eye make-up and imitated movie star make-up and make shining redish of lip and nails were popular. II. The stage of modernism(1945-1969) cold war time between communism and capi-talism and promotin of women's human rights were established in this time. 1) Pop art avantgrade art were catched up 2) The popular trends of were new look Kior's line silhoutte mini skirt and young fashion. 3) The popular trend of hair style was french twist. Pill Boxs hat curly bob style were prevalenced and they some what dwarfed hair style. 4) make-up natural make-up was popular. III. The stage of high economic development (1969-1990) Increased population economic development were tend to specialize with anti-social action such as Hippie and Punk groups. 1) Op art Androgynous post-modernism Punk and neo-modernism were catched up. 2) Clothes : classic style of reactionism layered look Punk-fashion avantgrade fashion and pantalon suits were prevalence. 3) Hair Style : Twiggy's short hair style the geometric hair cut natural long hair Spike hair unsex-hair style. 4) Make-up : diversified individuality were prevalence The result of this study indicated that the value's of recognize the importance of total fashion that is the harmonization of clothes hair style and make-up.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.127-139
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research the change of Tibet's commercial district following Tibet's globalization(traditional clothing to modern clothing). Tibet's traditional culture is fastly changing for two major reasons: Chinese government's persistent assimilation policy on minority ethnic groups and globalization, a powerful trend worldwide. Therefore this investigation was conducted on the most preeminent feature of life, clothing culture, at capital city Lhasa where modernization is most prominent and fast in Tibet. For this, the first field investigation was conducted between February 5th and 15th, 2007. and the second investgation was between January 16th and 25th, 2008. As a result, the study on clothing globalization in Lhasa, Tibet, reaches the conclusion as follows: Based on such developments, commerce of Lhasa has been modernized, bringing about great change in composition and formation of its commercial district. Stores have been modernized and their service quality has improved. While the number of traditional clothes shops has decreased, various types of modern clothes shops have emerged. Modern clothes stores mostly consist of quality men's wear shops, casual clothing shops targeting those in their 20s, and sportswear shops reflecting global trend. This composition indicates that it is men and younger generation who first adopt new culture emerged through globalization. Tibet's modernization and social development have become an integral part of globalization and public sentiment. Therefore, its modernization will be driven by power and capability of the public, rather than by policy control of the central government.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.52-62
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• 2011

This study is about the history of costumes depicted on the book Goryosa(高麗史) Ye-Ji(禮志). Researches about the costumes of Goryo dynasty are very rare and are mostly based on Goryodogyung(高麗圖經) and Goryosa Yebok-Ji(與服志). However, records about suitable costumes for a special scene of a rite can also be found in Ye-Ji besides Yebok-Ji. Therefore, this study analyzes Ye-Ji and categorizes the results into character and situation. Characters that can be found are king, officials, crown prince, aristocrat, commoner and envoy. Situations that can be found, according to the original text, are Gilrye(吉禮), Hyoongrye(凶禮), Goonrye(軍禮) and Garye(嘉禮). The results of the study are as follows; $\blacktriangleright$ The king had to change clothes in order to suit the situation according to the precise sequence of rituals. Therefore the king had to wear different clothes in the same rite, optionally, depending on the situation. This also applies to the case of officials. $\blacktriangleright$ The crown prince and aristocrats generally wore the same clothes as officials. $\blacktriangleright$ In the important ritual of Garye(嘉禮), many cases can be found where officials wore Jobok(朝服) and hands-on worker wore Gongbok(公服). $\blacktriangleright$ It is remarkable that on the New Year's day, the winter solstice and Sungsoojul(聖壽節; the emperor's birthday) the envoy of Ming Sangbok(常服); whereas the king and the officials of Goryo wore the Myunbok(冕服) or Jobok(朝服).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.159-172
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• 2007

For the study on the Latin American culture reflected in fashion designs since 2000, the applications of Latin American culture shown in the four major collections from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W (110 pieces) and some African designers' collections (157 pieces) have been analyzed and compared in three categories - forms, patterns and accessories. First, in the formal application of traditional clothes, the traditional elements of Indio culture are utilized in both the four major collections (76.8%) and the Latin American designers' collection (77.1%). Quechquemitl, the traditional Indio clothes are utilized in various forms in the four major collections, while the Latin American designers adopt various forms of traditional clothes, such as quechquemitl, camisa and pollera. Second, in the textile design, the patterns from Indio's traditional textile design are utilized in both the four major collections (68.7%) and the Latin American designers's collections (5.6%). The remarkable difference between the Latin American designers and the western designers is that the former like to mix the simple and primitive Indio culture with the colorful Iberian culture, and to utilize various patterns of feather, which is an important symbol in the traditional culture, expressing tradition in the modern touch. On the other hand, the western designers change the primitive and handcraft feel of Indio patterns into colorful ones, or mix the colorful Spanish-style flower patterns with primitive and passionate feel. Third, simple and handcraft feel of Indio accessories are utilized in modern fashion in both the four major collections and the Latin American designers' collections. The most remarkable difference between the two group of designers' collections is that various feather patterns are used in Latin American designers' collection, while the accessories reminding of relics of Maya and Inca are widely used in the four major collections.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.73-81
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• 1997

Parsimon juice dyeing is the one of the most popular natural dyeing methods which have been done traditionally among the farmers. The clothes dyed with parsimon juice has several merits, that is, it become much more durable, cool, easy to wash and wear after dyeing and these merits are the reason why people likes to wear the parsimon juice dyeing clothes as work wear. Especially in Cheju province, parsimon juice clothes became a folk costume and many people still enjoy wearing it in the hot summer days. But one of the demerits of parsimon dyeing is that the possible period of dyeing is very short. So, if parsimon juice dyeing could be done with the preserved parsimon juice, it would be possible to enlength the period. With this idea, we compared the color and colorfastness of fabrics which were dyed with 4 kinds of parsimon juice. The experimental parsimon juice 96-8 was preserved during 13 months, 96-9 was 12 months, 97-8 was 1 month and 97-9 was not preserved one. The experimental fabrics were cotton, silk. nylon and polyester fabrics. The results were as follows ; 1. The colors of fabrics dyed with experimental parsimon juice 96-9, 97-8, 97-9 were yellow-red and dyeing states were good. But the colors of fabrics dyed with 96-8 were dark and the state were bad, because the color of experimental parsimon juice 96-8 was changed during preservation. 2. The best state of dyeing could see in the fabrics dyed with experimental parsimon juice 97-8, although that was preserved 1 month. 3. There were differences of color between experimental fabrics dyed with same juice and the colors were thicker in cotton and silk than in nylon and polyester fabrics. 4. During wetting and drying process, the color changes in fabrics dyed with no preserved one were more than in fabrics dyed with preserved ones. 5. The color fastness to the light of the dyed fabrics was over 4, to the acidic perspiration was 3~4 or 4~5, to the alkaline perspiration was 2, 3 or 3~4 and to the washing was 1~2. There was no significant difference in colorfastness between the 96-9 dyed fabrics and 97-9 dyed fabrics.