The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of Grotesque in Contemporary Fashion. The study selected the 1990's or after fashion material by the material of both $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\grave{a}}-porter$ collection and haute couture collection based on Europe. These days, the characteristics of grotesque have been categorized into four groups based on the theory of representative scholars of the Post Modernism era. The results are as follows. ${\cdot}$ The devilism creates shocking and destructive cruelty and fear by using frightening object and mysterious and devilish motif which symbolize the death of fashion ${\cdot}$ Hatred produces physical destroy of human body, anatomical expression inside human body, cruelty by naked sex expression, pains, cruel treatment, disillusion and unpleasantness, which have been caused by the disturbance and ideological confrontation of the society, and is said to be a kind of self-confession against dislike and fear of the disclosure of human existence. ${\cdot}$ Playfulness distorts and exaggerates clothes and human body forms, and produces abnormality and mystery because of vague sex identity. The playfulness of fashion can open fixed and closed world and lead it flexibly. ${\cdot}$ Heterogeneity is divided into both primitiveness and virtuality The primitiveness distorts or transforms human body through the human body decoration of primitive race, and expresses a grotesque form combining human being and other animals. It gives a question to the existence of alienated and suppressed life through the world. in which everything is mixed and not separated. The virtuality introduces not only cyborg form combining human being and machines but also state of the art technology factors, so that it emphasizes non-mechanical and non-human grotesque images.
In the 'Society of the Spectacle', Guy Debord argued that modern life was dominated by the commodity form and the false desires it engendered. He predicted in 1967 that culture would become the driving force in the development of the economy by the end of the century, He was sure when culture becomes nothing more than a commodity, it must also become the star commodity of the spectacular society. Fashion, the starriest of star commodities with its seductive fantasy approaches to the viewers occluding the commercial reality. From this point, the spectacular property of the modern fashion can be found. This study starts on the notion that the modern fashion is on the center of capitalist consumer culture and is constructed by spectacle. On this premise, the purpose of this study is analysing the attribute of 'spectacle' and 'keeping distance £Tom spectacle' in modern fashion expressed in fashion show, fashion media and fashion store. The fashion houses in the 1990s that recognised the commercial value of shock and spectacle were eager to employ young spectacularly visible named designers. They generated the publicity necessary for sales of perfume, cosmetics, bags and diffusion range of clothes through the visible fashion show and fashion media. In the fashion show and fashion media, fashion goods as the commodity both flaunts and disguises its commercial nature in spectacle. The spectacle on the fashion store is the process turning the commodity into image to arouse viewer's higher interest. In the fashion store, the appearance of the commodity such as space, display, package is considered more importantly than its 'utility value'. Meanwhile, the study also covered the innovative trial to evade the ubiquitous 'spectacle' in fashion area.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of Ondol on the bedclimate, microclimate and physiological responses of occupants. Four healthy female subjects slept for seven hours in thermal environment of detached house and apartment respectively. Their bedclimate, microclimate, skin temperature, weight loss of body, weight of bedcloth and sleepwear, body movement and subjective sensation were measureed for this study. The results were as follows; The differences of bedclimate, microclimate, skin temperature were significant according to season and residence styles. The occupants of the detached house showed higher temperature and humidity inside quilt and clothes than those of the apartment did on apartment environment. The occupants of the detached house showed higher weight losses of body, heavier weights of quilt than those of the apartment did on apartment environment in the spring, autumn and winter, lower weight losses of mattress in the autumn and winter. The occupants of the detached house moved more than those of the apartment on apartment environment when sleeping. The occupants of the detached house felt higher thermal sensation and lower humidity sensation than those of the apartment did. The occupants of the detached house felt more comfortable than those of the apartment on detached house environment, while the occupants of the apartment felt more comfortable than those of the detached house on apartment environment. The thermal environments of the apartment and the detached house had an effect on the bedclimates, microclimates of occupants and therefore the physiological responses such as skin temperature, rectal temperature, weight loss of body, perspiration and subjective sensation are different during sleeping according to their residential styles on the same environment.
The purpose of this study was to analyze and determine the relationship between physiological responses including blood flow rate and garment pressure, and the feeling of restrictive tightness associated with the wearing skinny pants as a popular clothing style. Evaluation was based on material type, posture and activity type, and body part location. Five female college students took part in this research. Five kinds of experimental clothes with waist measurements of 66cm were chosen. An analysis of the selected skinny pants demonstrated the degree of the whole looseness was higher in this order: clothing type A>B>D>C, and E with E being knitted cloth. Garment pressure was the highest in the front knee portions and was lowest in the outside thigh region. Garment pressure was highest in this sequence : clothing type C>=D>A>=B>E. In terms of posture and activity types, garment pressure was the highest when research participants were crouching, and was the lowest when standing. The blood flow rate was highest in this order: clothing type E>D>B>A>C. Type C skinny pants impeded blood flow and demonstrated the tightest and most restrictive relationship. Blood flow rate varied depending on the type of movement and was highest in this order: getting up, rowing, kicking, jumping and O-shaped leg posture. The results of subjective pressure evaluation demonstrated that pressure was highest in this order: E>=C>B>A>D. These results suggests the need to improve on the patterns and the material design in the area of the front knees. The degree of the looseness when wearing skinny pants did not always correspond to garment pressure or subjective sensation.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.36
no.6
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pp.583-591
/
2012
This study selected three model designs used for air injection type welding clothes designed for insulation purposes and analyzed the performance of each design. The bending characteristics were analyzed in order to identify the flexibility of the welded areas; subsequently, the seam breaking strength and water pressure resistance were analyzed to identify the bonding strength. In addition, two types of waterproof fabric, polyurethane (PU) coated 2 layer and PU laminated 2 layer fabrics, were used for a performance analysis, according to fabric processing specifications. The circle type showed the highest flexibility in the terms of bending characteristics that influence wearability and were followed by the wave and the straight type. In terms of breaking strength, the straight type showed the highest breaking strength, followed by the wave and the circle type. The water pressure resistance analysis found that the wave type was superior to the straight type in terms of water pressure resistance. The wave type is deemed to be a design type suitable for maximizing performance, provided that the issue of stabilization in the welding production process is addressed. Looking at the bending characteristics of waterproof fabric for each specification, the laminating waterproof cloth outperformed the coated waterproof cloth in terms of flexibility. However, in terms of seam breaking strength, the coated waterproof cloth outperformed the laminated cloth. In contrast, the water pressure resistance of the laminated waterproof fabric was found to be higher than the coated waterproof fabric, leading to the conclusion that the bonding strength of the laminated waterproof fabric is higher than that of the coated waterproof fabric based on the assumption of injecting air.
In modern society, culture is an important factor to form a country's image and identity and a representative content to generate revenue. Culture is a keyword to design life in the 21st century and has become competitiveness between countries. As a cultural content with international competitiveness, this study performed textile design development with the use of relics from the Tomb of King Muryeong, which is the tumulus of King Muryeong who was the 25th king of Baekje among Korean history. The developed design could be applied to the production of various fashion cultural products such as clothes, scarf, neck-tie, and bag. The process for the design development was carried out as follows: As a first step, this study found basis as a cultural content with a global sense that could form the historical value of the Tomb of King Muryeong and gain global sympathy of people all over the world through literature reviews. As a second step, this study examined the current state that traditional Korean elements were used as a fashion cultural products. As a third step, this study analyzed the current state and problems of fashion cultural products using relics from the Tomb of King Muryeong through field survey. As a final step, this study planned the concept of design with the use of diadem ornaments, earring, sword, stone guardian animal, and bricks with lotus-flower design from the tomb of King Muryeong. And these developed 6 textile designs could be applied to the production of various fashion cultural products.
Journal of Family Resource Management and Policy Review
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v.16
no.1
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pp.21-39
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2012
The purpose of this study is to propose the direction of environmental education for early childhood children based on the environment-friendly life style and to improve the possibility of application of it at home and kindergarten. This study reviewed reflectively the early studies on the concepts of ecocentrism, the emerging process of it, the importance of environmental education for early childhood children based on the ecocentrism, and the practice of these kinds of education at home and kindergarten. The main concepts connected to the environment-friendly life style based on ecocentrism, that is, 'preservation of nature', 'interdepentence', 'wholeness', 'equilibrium' are the foundations of environmental education for early childhood children. When these kinds of concepts are considered, the aims of environmental education for early childhood children should be focused on the life style that attaches great importance to the symbiosis of human being and nature. The educational contents and methods in harmony with ecocentrism are as follows: The educational methods should be connected to the education based on ordinariness, the learning through adults' model, the family-community-centered activities, and ways of thinking of the unity of knowledge and conduct. And educational contents should include all of the life styles in clothes, food, and shelter. And the educational methods also should be connected to the education through joint working of children and teacher, play-centered education, activities considering ages and individual variations, and education connected home. And educational contents should include many different kinds of activities of experiencing nature outside home and kindergarten.
This study is proposed to research the rural clothing, dietary and housing style of living in order to adapt a basis which is supposed to improve the quality of rural life. The sample in this research comes from Daehang 1 Li, Bubuk Myun, Miryang Gun, Kyungnam, and the results are as following; Generally rural housewives are unconcerned with fashion or its information, instead, they care for the casual wear which represents economic and active life style. Because of their financial problems, inpurchasing, they spend only a small money without plan. When they launder Clothes, they use washing bat and pannel which is easy to break fabrics, and they ineffectively use to dry it by hands twisting. The total food intake per person in a day is 1170.6gram, and all nutrients intakes except fat and calcium exceed the recommended dietary allowances. But 90.3% of the food intakes are plant food, and the average food items taken per day per househod is 11.9items which are not so various, which represents the shortage of the nutrient quality. Both the nutrition knowledge score and the food habit score are very low. Therefore, in order to enhance the quality of clothing and diet in rural life, they need to learn clothing and nutrition management for their enlightment. The most comprehensive type of farmhouse site plan take the shape of ㄱ and ㄴ, and for the most part main building is the floor plan which includes 3-4 spans in front of the change from the type of traditional house, throught the revised one, to the type of newly built house. In main building of the farmhouse, kitchen, Kunbang and Chakunbang are extended to their real space, and both utility and the bathroom are added to build, and Malu is transformed into the living space.
The purpose of this study is to analyse the occurrence and evolution of Mao suit which is important position in the modern costume history of China and to provide a source of design inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. In the research method, literature review and case studies was conducted in parallel. For the literature review, changes of Mao suit in each age were reviewed with reference to the related documents, Chinese costume and cultural history, prior research papers and internet resources. The case analysis was qualitatively done focusing on the silhouette, color and detail of clothes in fashion collections. The scope of the study was from 1912 to 2000. The case analysis of the Mao suit applied to the contemporary fashion was made on the applications centered around 'London Collection', 'New York Collection', 'Paris Collection', 'Milan Collection' and 'Chinese Fashion Week' from 2008 to 2015. The results found that Mao suit changed into many different forms after Sun Wen designed it for the first time in 1912. This study classified it into Phase 1(1912~1927), Phase 2(1928~1965), Phase 3(1966~1977), and Phase 4(1978~2000) with historical and political issues and conformational changes in Mao suit. The frequency analysis of the cases of the fashion collections using Mao suit from 2008 to 2015 showed an increased application of Mao suit to the western collection in New York, Paris and London in 2008 due to the impact of Beijing Olympics. However, from 2009 onwards, the frequency of the utilization of Mao suit was higher in the Chinese Fashion Week and the New York Collection. This cause is explained by the fact that the designers who inspired from Mao suit in the New York Collection are American Chinese.
Journal of the Korean Institute of Electrical and Electronic Material Engineers
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v.30
no.6
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pp.366-371
/
2017
In this paper, we introduce an electrocardiogram (ECG) system designed to solve problems caused by wetgels and motion artifacts in measuring active movement. The system is called a dry-contact ECG and was designed by considering impedance matching between skin and electrode as well as the frictional electricity between electrode and clothes. In order to create the system, we measured impedance on the skin-electrode interface, and the result was applied to the electronic circuit scheme. Moreover, we added an electrode on the back of the measurement electrode to make a flow path to ground the electrical noise. The final ECG circuit and novel electrode were used to detect real human cardiac signals from a subject who was tested while standing still and walking. The signals obtained from the two activities were nicely shaped, without any motion artifact noise. We took electrode size into account in this study because the impedance depended on the area of the electrode. An electrode of 50 mm diameter showed the best curve for the ECG signal without any electrical noise.
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