Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
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A Review on the Transition and Application of Modern Fashion of Chinese Mao Suit

중국 중산복의 변천 및 현대패션에의 적용사례 고찰

  • Gi, Chao (Dept. of Clothing & Textile, Chonnam National University) ;
  • Baek, Jeong Hyun (Dept. of Clothing & Textile, Chonnam National University) ;
  • Bae, Soo Jeong (Dept. of Clothing & Textile, Chonnam National University, Research Institute for Human Ecology)
  • 기초 (전남대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 백정현 (전남대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 배수정 (전남대학교 생활과학연구소)
  • Received : 2016.09.22
  • Accepted : 2016.11.22
  • Published : 2017.04.30
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Abstract

The purpose of this study is to analyse the occurrence and evolution of Mao suit which is important position in the modern costume history of China and to provide a source of design inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. In the research method, literature review and case studies was conducted in parallel. For the literature review, changes of Mao suit in each age were reviewed with reference to the related documents, Chinese costume and cultural history, prior research papers and internet resources. The case analysis was qualitatively done focusing on the silhouette, color and detail of clothes in fashion collections. The scope of the study was from 1912 to 2000. The case analysis of the Mao suit applied to the contemporary fashion was made on the applications centered around 'London Collection', 'New York Collection', 'Paris Collection', 'Milan Collection' and 'Chinese Fashion Week' from 2008 to 2015. The results found that Mao suit changed into many different forms after Sun Wen designed it for the first time in 1912. This study classified it into Phase 1(1912~1927), Phase 2(1928~1965), Phase 3(1966~1977), and Phase 4(1978~2000) with historical and political issues and conformational changes in Mao suit. The frequency analysis of the cases of the fashion collections using Mao suit from 2008 to 2015 showed an increased application of Mao suit to the western collection in New York, Paris and London in 2008 due to the impact of Beijing Olympics. However, from 2009 onwards, the frequency of the utilization of Mao suit was higher in the Chinese Fashion Week and the New York Collection. This cause is explained by the fact that the designers who inspired from Mao suit in the New York Collection are American Chinese.

Keywords

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