• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.105-124
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• 2015

This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the $pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}-porter$ for the first time among the designer brands, and also contributed to the development of modern women's fashion. Literature survey on related books and papers was performed to study the Saint Laurent House. Then, fashion collection photos of the house from 1962 SS to 2014 SS were collected to analyze and compare the features of the designs. The photos were collected from related books, fashion magazines and internet sites. The results are as follows: The features of Yves Saint Laurent's early designs were contemporarily sensational with their couture tradition. His representative designs including Le Smoking, Pea Coat, Loose Fit Blouse, Safari Look, Jumpsuit, Ethnic Look and Art Look became the signature looks of the Saint Laurent House. His designs expressed the liberation of sex, multi-cultural sensitivity and the fusion of art and fashion. His successor, chief designer Tom Ford designed with strong sensitivity of his own. He dealt with Yves Saint Laurent's design themes and signature looks in sensual as well as trendy and sophisticated way. Stefano Pilati showed the Parisienne chic and elegance. He re-made the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent with his own design style using new materials or cutting technique. Hedi Slimane reinterpreted the signature looks of the house with his rock' n roll mood for young, modern women while reflecting the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent's early stage. In conclusion, the design identity of Saint Laurent House is not just a fixed one. By the subsequent chief designers, the signature items and design spirit of Yves Saint Laurent have been succeeded, reintroduced or changed to be trendy and to reflect the designers' design sensitivity. All of these make and maintain the design identity of the fashion house.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.163-180
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environment-friendly design expressed in Koran fashion. Environment-friendly design can be categorized into choice of material, extension of products life cycle, and recycling design. In this study, Korean fashion designers can be found having the conciousness of environment for fashion design since 1990. First, in choice of material, the designers used Natural fibers which are cotton, linen, wool, and etc, and used natural dyes. Some of the designers have moved from using real fur to using fake fur for animal welfare. But fake furs produced from synthetic or regenerated fibers have the environmental problems during textile production processes. Some of the designers used fake leather made from the skins of an edible fish which are otherwise going to waste. Secondly, Design for extension of products life cycle can economize the resources and energy. Design for extension of products life cycle are classified into reversible clothing, many function clothing, modular style, patina clothing, simple style, and layered look. Finally, recycling design are classified into recycling of daily necessaries and expression techniques of recycling design which are designer's works used patchwork, mash techniques, and handmade of knits or buttonhole stitch.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.47-64
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• 2010

This study was to define the factors of inspiration and expression methods of Viktor & Rolf known for distinctive works in order to find the ways of creative fashion designing. For the research method, the literature reviews were done by designer's books, collection reviews, and related articles. To find the ideas of design inspiration, interview data with Viktor & Rolf were used. The results of this study were as follows. Their conceptional attitude and the fashion shows like performance indicated that the designer's introspection became the origin of the concept and the ideas expanded the fields of expression. The expression of surrealistic fantasy was done by free imagination and daydreams, which was appeared as fantastical world beyond the everyday life. The expression of paradox and contrast overcame stereotype views with inversion, paradox, and ironical expression. The distortion of shape and the extreme exaggeration by overlap and repetition had a intention that magnity the miserable self-images on purpose, which had started from the debut and appeared ever after on collections and which sought the practicality, infinity exceeding the standard of ideal beauty. The harmony between classicism and avant-guard originated from the insights of tradition demonstrated the wits of designers showing the unique ideas with the base of classics.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.75-86
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• 2001

The article is alms to investigate the characteristics, the originality, and the interest of fashion design of costume play, which is recently specifically popularized among young fashion mania. The influence of commercialization power of the Disneyland and the animation characters of Japanese caricatures makes the costume play to be one of the main new generation culture. Since the costume play just begins at this moment, the full understanding of the costume play is hard because of the small amount of the materials and happenings of the phenomena. However it reveals the design trends and creativity of the new generation. As the investigation of costume play fashion and the types of costume play, the following results are obtained. 1. The originality of the costume play is thought to be induced from the mask which is used against the ghost in primitive ages, the fancy parade of halloween festival, commercial advertisements of Disneyland, the Japanese caricatures, and the animation games. 2. The distinctive characteristics of Korean costume play shows the massive behaviour, which is different from the individualized costume play in Japan. This facts show the parts of the interest culture of the persons who has the equal interest. The costume play is applied as the sound showing culture, in which the young generation express and enjoy themselves by"kki" - the passion of young energy. 3. The boom of costume play introduce the increased number of costume play shop, pro model, and designer. It also introduce the interest of the new fashion design for the young generations. Thus it is expected the new fashion infra structure in near future.ar future.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.15-26
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• 1999

The purpose of the study was to investigate brand images and fashion leaderships of women's wear manufacturers targeting middle-aged women or older women. Thus, this study was to be an exploratory study to investigate clothing behavior of elderly female consumers and search apprel niche-market for them. The questionnaire consists of questions on brand images, fashion leadership, and merchandise assortment. The subjects were to evaluate their brand images and rated on 5 point Likert-type scales of 29 adjectives. The fashion leadership of these brands was evaluated by the degree of fashion trends adopted on 7 aspects including fashion images, silhouettes, fabrics, colors, design details, accessories, and item-coordinations. For the survey, both interview and the subjects were 66 manufacturers which have national brands or designer brands. Among 44 respondents, 30 respondents were designers and the rest of them were merchandiser or shop managers. The SPSS PC+ package was used to calculate frequency, T-test, and cluster analysis. The results from survey of manufacturers targeting middle-aged women or older women are as follow: 1) The brand imges which they pursue are prestigious, practical, and elegance. 2) There were significant differences in brand images, and national brand manufacturers pursue stronger images in prestigious, chic, intelligent, competency, than designer brand manufacturers. 3) 40 brands were divided into two clusters. 36 brands were included in one cluster, and only 4 brand were belong to the other cluster. In this market, the image of feminity was grouped with the image of prestigious, chic, intelligent, competency. 4) In product planning, the adption level of fashion trends in 7 aspects was generally at medium level, but fashion trends were more adopted in fabric, color, and item-coordination.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.93-115
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• 2001

Korean textile industry is faced a turning point, And the culture of a country itself is getting a main competetive items. Therefore, this study is focused upon developing fashion items of Korean image. For this study purpose, I carried out literature review and questionnaires were surveyed with 129 women, to see how Korean women interested in costume are conscious of Korean image and the way to develop Korean image fashion items. The study results are as follows. 1. To Koreans, the elements of Korean image were Hanbok(Korean traditional cloths) and Saeckdong(traditional multi-coloured stripes), but to foreigners they were national image. 2. To develop competetive fashion items of Korean image, I recommend as follows. - set up a typical key-word of Korean image - promote top designer - globalization of Hanbok - take advantage of 2002 Wold Cup - bring Korean image fashion into vogue to the younger from domestic to abroad - make Korean image into universal fashion - start with accessories, hats, bags, scarves

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.137-146
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• 2009

This study analyzed hierarchy of image for visual evaluation of flare skirt. This study analyzed expression words about flare skirt with frequency data of image expression words with different length and volume of flare. Stimuli for the study were set to be 4 different volume of flare ($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$, $270^{\circ}$, $360^{\circ}$) and 3 different length of skirt(48cm, 58cm, 68cm). Stimuli were made by using I-Designer which is Virtual Sewing System. From simulation of flare skirt, the subjects were asked to write down suggested adjective freely and selected 210 adjectives. With this, we chose total 38 adjectives considering frequencies in the pre-study. And we analyzed the combination process of expression words according to construction factor of flare skirt and hierarchy of image from dendrogram which was resulted by hierarchical cluster analysis. 'Feminine' got high score in all 12 flare skirt. When the skirt was short, it was vivid, and as the skirt got longer, ordinary and pure image showed. Also, as the volume of flare got larger, the average of visual effect was higher than visual image. Visual hierarchy construction according to construction factors of flare skirt could be divided into visual image and visual effect, and visual image was shown to be form 'A type - large volume of flare and short skirt length', 'H type-small volume of flare and short skirt length' and 'X type - large volume of flare and long skirt length'.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2009

The main purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of shapes of John Galliano's Dior Collection as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison during $1996{\sim}2007$ after he showed himself in Paris in 1990. This study was based on the analyses of John Galliano's design trends of his collections, the pictures of his works in Christian Dior's collection, real works, documents and fashion magazines, newspapers, mass media, internet sites and other visual materials. The study identified characteristics of shapes in Dior Collection until 07/08 F/W as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison, and the design trends before his post-Paris period. Followings are the conclusions of the study. First, Galliano was open to any types of cultures as a liberalist, and also respectful to the tradition or principles. He led the fashion business with new trends by exploring both sides. Second, he succeeded in commercializing his avant-garde feature. Especially, His creativity changed the image of Christian Dior to younger and more casual one. Third, born in England and worked in French, he always took both English (Victorian Style) and French(Napoleon era, Femme Fatal style) sides, and showed excellent formulation that the times needed by combining topical Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian styles.

• 복식
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• 제66권2호
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• pp.117-133
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• 2016

Fashion reflects various cultures, including the spirit and the lifestyle of the period. South Korea has experienced rapid social changes, including the Korean War, industrial development, and the inflow of Western influence. Modern Korean fashion has developed along with these changes. Acceptance of suits and the reformism of the Hanbok are the two notable changes in Korean fashion. Gyungja Choi, and her fashion show, is known for combining modern fashion and traditional beauty by entwining traditional Korean fashion design elements into modern fashion. This research investigated Gyungja Choi as a fashion designer, a fashion education executive who cultivated fashion designers through the education business, and a fashion publisher who published the first professional costume magazine. This research classified the Korean-style design elements in Gyungja Choi's fashion show by analyzing the clothes exhibited in her fashion shows. In conclusion, Choi's design utilized Korean-style fashion design elements, such as line, colors, patterns, and materials. Which can be said to be the introduction period that expressed Korean style image in fashion considering the period.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.41-58
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• 1996

To purpose of this study is to understand the present situation of the present situation of the fashion careers in apparel industry and to present a activation information for development of a specialty de-partment. This study has been proceeded with the library survey method, and 20 apparel enterprises have been researched with the questionaire and inter-view method. These were large and medium sized enterprises. The results were as follows: 1. Subdivision of fashion careers have been found insufficient on apparel enterprises in Korea. 2. Textile specialists have been needed on apparel enterprises in Korea. 3. Domestic enterprises have dropt out man-agement 4. These enterprises are negative for the consumer research and fashion information col-lection. 5. Fashion sepecialists have been found insuf-ficient on retail division, The propositions for activation of fashion careers are as follows: 1. Fashion careers should subdivide and specialize. 2. The apparel enterprises should employ textile designer. 3. The apparel enterprises should activate practical department. 4. The apparel enterprises should research consumer and collect fashion information. 5. The apparel enterprises should develop fashion specialists on retail division.