• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.5
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• pp.1-20
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• 2011

As a follow-up of a study on design strategies to improve Korea's Korean coast guarduniforms, this study set out to propose Korean coast guard uniforms of a new concept that would meet the changing needs of the times and match the advanced technology and work environments. Three concepts of classical, nautical and techno chic were identified from the design strategies of the previous study. Using the results from a prototype show and preference survey, the investigator divided items into design, color, material, and detail and reflects demands for each of them. As a result, design was examined in four aspects of identity, acknowledgement, unity, and practicality and focused its improvement factors on design differentiated from other organizations' uniforms including ground police, segmentation of size system, adjustment of the length of upper garment to consider activity, and changes to the lines and silhouette to give out a modern image. As for color, the focus was placed on differentiated colors from other organizations' uniforms including ground police through dark blue and ocean color, change toward colors that reflect environmental characteristics, and unity in colors between the summer and winter uniform. As for material, the focus of improvement was put on elasticity, resistance against contamination, warmth retention, texture, wearing sensation, and functionality by taking into account convenience for field workers on coast guard vessels and branch offices who have much time in contact with ocean environments in order to make the materials high-grade. As for detail, structural details were added to give out a modern image such as changing the detail lines, efficiency of storage space, buttons, sleeve hems, ironing lines, and neck collars by taking into account environmental characteristics. The significance of the study lies in that it proposed a development model for large-scale uniform copy design by establishing copy design that secures functionality and is proper for an organization's social and cultural environment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.449-456
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• 2018

This study conducted a survey of members at sports climbing centers on the purchasing and wearing conditions of sports climbing wear and design preferences. 140 participants were in their 20's and 30's, and many of them engaged in sports climbing activities over 20 times a month. They put emphasis on the motion adaptability, durability, price and functional material when purchasing a climbing wear. However, only 23% of them used sports climbing wear. The reasons for wearing sports climbing wears were suitability for physical activity, comfort, and design. On the other hand, the reasons for not purchasing them were expensive prices and lack of designs. They experienced inconveniences at sleeves and waist in shirts. In case of pants, participants experienced inconveniences with the knee and thigh when they climbing. Concerning the damage of shirts, the majority experienced the elbow part was worn out, and the knee part was either worn out or torn at pants. Design preference results showed participants preferred loose-fit short-sleeved shirts that could cover half of the hip. In case of pants, they preferred basic-fit long trousers and basic hems with no functional characteristic. 3 sports climbing instructors answered that climbing wears should put emphasis on deodorization and antimicrobial effects as well as durability and suitability for physical activity. They also pointed out limitations in price and design and presented opinions about creating various sizes for different body parts by taking into account the growth of muscles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.26-42
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine how to sew the hem of men's coat which were excavated from the Yeosan Song Clan's tombs that are thought to be formed between the late 15th and the late 16th centuries, findings of the study can be summarized as follows. 1. Andan, or inside facing was used to prevent the hem from being worn or swollen or to make the hem properly arranged. It was generally used for single-layered and cotton-quilted coat for men. Deotdan was used mainly for men's coat having oblique cutting lines and jemuldan for those having straight cutting lines. In single-layed coat for men, the width of andan was widened a little as the times moved from the late 15th to the late 16th century, but in cotton-quilted ones, the width was not significantly changed. 2. Fixing the lining and the upper was used as a method to prevent the lining of men's coat from being pushed out or the hem of the clothes from being swollen. The method was generally used for double-layered, cotton and cotton-quilted coat for men. The double back-stitching was usually used for double-layered and cotton coat for men and the broad-stitching for Cotton-quilted ones. 3. Among men's coat, those whose siding was partially opened were less spare in the lower end than those whose siding was wholly opened. For this reason, the former clothes were more likely to have the tip of the siding easily torn. To solve this problem, overhand knotting 1, overhand knotting 2 and lotus-flower knotting strings were used for men's coat whose siding was partially opened. Among the three types, lotus-flower knotting was most elaborate in form. For men's coat, overhand knotting became gradually replaced by lotus-flower knotting as the times moved from the late 15th to the late 16th century.

• Proceedings of the Acoustical Society of Korea Conference
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• spring
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• pp.263-268
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• 1999

Psychoacoustic characteristics of automobile hems influence subject's subjective evaluation and psychophysiological reactions on the sounds of car horns. However, differentiation of physiological responses to commercially availablenfluence subject's subjective evaluation and psychophysiological reactions on the s horns is a complicated task due to the small contrast in technical features of horns and the influence of habituation. Using 10 college students, comparative analysis of physiological reactivity was carried out in order to identify the effect of habituation on decrement of psychophysiological responsivity, assess the ability to differentiate subjectively most and least preferred/appropriate horns according to physiological manifestations. EEG and autonomic responses to 7 automobile horns were analyzed during 3 blocks of trials (each block was varied in order for presenting stimuli and acoustic parameters of horns). It was shown that electrodermal and cardiovascular responses had different reactivity patterns to repeated stimulation. Skin conductance variables (SCL, SCR) were habituated as a function of trial. Cardiac reactivity (HR, RSA) showed no signs of habituation. In contrast, sensitization was shown in the vascular component of response (pulse volume). The temporal EEG exhibited marked habituation of fast beta band power, while alpha-blocking effect did not habituate during the course of experiment. Differentiation of physiological responses of most and least preferred/appropriate horns was possible in this study. That is, some cardiovascular reactivity variables (HR, RSA, pulse volume, etc.) were differentiated between the least and the most preferred/appropriate horns during the experiment. However, EEG and electrodermal parameters showed significant differences only during first block of trials and were later affected by habituation.

• Korean Journal of Environmental Biology
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.114-119
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• 2003

Effects of Aroclor 1254, on hematological disturbance were investigated in the olive flounder, Paralichthys olivaceus. Flounders were exposed to waterborne PCB (3.0${\mu}g \; L^{-1}$) for 00 days. Blood samples were taken to determine their hematological disturbances. Plasma calcium concentration was significantly decreased in PCBs exposed flounder compared to the control group, while magnesium and inorganic phosphorus concentrations in PCBs exposed flounders were not significantly influenced during the test Belied. Although plasma total protein and albumin level were significantly reduced compared to the control group after 40 days, plasma glucose level was found to be significantly increased over the control group. Exposure to waterborne PCBs resulted in significant increase in the various enzyme activities, such as GOT, GPT and ALP in the flounder. The results of the present study led us to conclude that concentration of PCBs 3.0${\mu}g \; L^{-1}$ of the estuarine could markedly affect the hems tological distribution of olive flounder, Paralichthys olivaceus.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.292-303
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• 2011

This research suggested a draft proposal for a smart jacket design, which has applied wearable technologies to provide convenience in daily life. The smart jacket combined with a vest was the casual item for autumn and winter. The heating device was composed of the heating element, battery, controller, electric wire, connector, switch, and charger. A stable electronic conductor fiber of good heating effect with a flexible zigzag form has been selected for the heating element. The lighting device has been made in a way that attaches the LED and its power controller in the same mechanical device. As the result of the wearing test, the heating effect turned out to be effective in the order of: back, both the back and abdomen and only the abdomen. When wearing a smart jacket, the back and abdomen have been selected as favorable body parts for heating. Pockets and hems are selected as the adequate place to attach the LED lighting, and the brightness of LED lighting has turned out to be suitable and useful. Based on the test results, the first draft proposal has attached the heating element only in the back and its controller located in the inside pocket of the vest. In addition, the LED has been attached to the front pocket of the jacket. As to the second draft proposal, heating elements have been placed in the back and the abdomen. Each controller for the heating elements has been placed in the front and inside pocket of vest, and the LED lighting has been attached to the hem of the jacket. The smart jacket combined with a wearable device was assessed by functioning categories. The user showed a high satisfaction in the heating and illuminating function of a smart jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.146-155
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• 2011

This study examines the design characteristics of figure skating costumes by a content analysis of their design elements. The content analysis method for the study was used based on 185 photos of female figure skaters. A total of 218 coding units in 15 categories were used. In the category of color, unicolor costumes were the mainstay and represented 48.11% of the total costumes. Black costumes showed the highest rate (13.51%), followed by red (7.57%) and blue (7.03%). In the dual-color costumes, combinations of red and black and white and black, represented 4.32% of all costumes. A camisole was the most popular type of neckline (20.54%). Stand collars with neck decorations were found in 5.95% of the costumes. In addition, 98.2% of all figure skating costumes had decorations (crystal beads 21.86% were the most frequently used decoration type), 65.41% exposed all the shoulders and arms, 70.81% of the costumes did not have sleeves, 5.41% of the costumes had arm decorations, and 3.78% had wrist decorations. In the analysis of the hem of skirts, 32.40% had a curved line, 30.73% had a straight line, and 15.08% had an unrecognizable form. In general, the figure skating costumes have stand collars with neck decorations, arm and wrist decorations, and irregular skirt hems that are not found in everyday dresses. To emphasize and intensify a theatrical effect, the costumes were fabulously decorated with spangles, crystal beads, feathers, and lace; black, red, and blue were frequently used. The skirts had frills, fringe, flared lines, and beads on them to reflect the stage lights and emphasize movements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.410-419
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop the functionally improved winter work clothing for the Korean railroad workers. Based on the questionnaires, sample clothing for the Korean railroad workers was produced. The design, materials, and patterns were modified to increase mobility and comfort for workers. Water-repellent treatment was added to the material in order to decrease the dirt and stains while working. Also, reflective strips were added to side seams and hems of the trousers in order to increase the visibility and safety of the workers. In terms of the design and pattern, a circumference of 4.5cm was added to the crotch area in order to minimize tightness on the hip and crotch areas, but no additional circumference was added to the hip area. And a 1cm width dart was inserted between the side seams and yoke in order to add activity. Also three 1.4cm width tucks were used at 2.5cm space on the knees to alleviate tightness at the knees. The prototype was evaluated objectively and subjectively to compare with the existing working uniform. The assessment group consisted of 5 subject groups and 11 expert groups to evaluate external appearance and adaptability of the movements. Subject and panels were asked to evaluate the prototype that followed an ergonomic design and pattern. According to the results, the prototype was evaluated better than the existing working uniform in appearance and adaptability. A field test was conducted to compare the prototype and the existing working uniform. The field tests were performed by 6 workers in the Korean railroad. According to the results, the prototype advanced in terms of adaptability and comfort.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.300-312
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• 2014

This study seeks to offer practical suggestions for manufacturing jacket lining patterns through research on menswear brands. A researcher conducted interviews with a survey instrument targeting 12 menswear brands. To analyze the data, descriptive statistics were obtained using SPSS 18.0. The main findings were as follows. First, regarding lining production, most menswear brands were found to provide jacket lining patterns to their subcontractors, and pattern makers were found to design lining patterns based on their own know-how. The most important factor in the production of jacket lining patterns is whether linings are cut more than once during the sewing process. For suit jackets, linings are cut more than once, and for casual jackets, linings are cut once. Second, with regard to jacket production for different jacket styles, most menswear brands were found to use patterns that include seam allowance. Partial linings showed differences in terms of the methods used to sew edges and attach linings to the outer shell. Third, extra space in jacket lining patterns varied according to style. Jacket lining patterns for suit jackets and casual jackets showed differences in extra space in the following areas: the parts that cover the chest(suit jacket linings: 5.6cm, casual jacket linings: 2.4cm), the parts that cover the waist(suit jacket linings: 3.8cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), hem(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.3cm), and bicep(suit jacket linings: 2.7cm, casual jacket linings: 1.1cm). However, extra space in the sleeve hems was identical for the two styles(suit jacket linings: 0.1cm, casual jacket linings: 0.1cm). Therefore, this research suggests that clothing manufacturers design linings in accordance with the jacket lining production style.