• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.124-139
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to determine the aesthetic identity of modern eroticism fashion in which the energy of desire is maximized through the 'jouissance' and 'gaze' of the unconscious theory of Jacques Lacan. The research method derived aesthetic identity after examining jouissance and gaze deeply related to eroticism in Lacan's theory of the unconscious by analyzing data of domestic and foreign monographs and prior research. Case analysis was limited to 2000 S/S to 2022 F/W. Based on prior research, it was analyzed mainly on clothing with eroticism characteristics of 'exposure, close contact, see-through, the conversion of underclothes into outer garments'. Results of the study are as follows. First, eroticism, which can be linked to Lacan's type of 'jouissance' with multiple meanings as the generating point of eroticism, has manifested itself in voyeuristic eroticism, fatale eroticism, masochistic eroticism, surplus eroticism, and sacred eroticism. Second, as eyes of unconscious desire, visual expression characteristics of 'gaze' appeared as anamorphosis, trompe l'oeil, and dépaysement. The identity of eroticism derived from Lacan's jouissance and the perspective of the desire gaze was divided into voyeuristic desire to gaze, fatal desire to gaze, masochistic desire to gaze, surplus desire to gaze, and sacred desire to gaze. Results of this study will expand theoretical horizons of eroticist fashion with a new interpretation of eroticism by combining Lacan's desire as a repressed and alienated subject within the human unconscious with the art that expands it.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.199-209
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• 2023

This study identified design elements of the functions required for children's ski pants. Data for this study were collected through questionnaire surveys conducted among children's ski instructors and children's sportswear developers. Five functionalities of children's skiwear were evaluated: mobility, stability, comfort, protection, and convenience. A total of 25 functional design elements related to the patterns, design details, and physical characteristics of fabrics for ski garments, were evaluated. The results of this study are as follows. First, children's sportswear developers evaluated that the pattern elements were important. Most of the pattern design elements highly related to mobility. Children's ski instructors' appraisal was that the height of the back waist was the important feature. Second, regarding the design details, children's ski instructors evaluated the size adjustment function and ventilation system as important elements. Many design detail elements were highly related in respect of stability, comfort, protection, and convenience. Third, the physical characteristics of fabric were strongly associated with mobility, comfort, and protection. As regards the physical characteristics of fabric, children's ski instructors valued anti-fouling highly, but children's sportswear developers attached more importance to the weight of the fabric. The results of this study will be useful in designing functional ski pants for children of elementary and intermediate ski levels. Since there may be limitations related to the ski level and age of children wearing ski pants, it is suggested that follow-up studies according to various groups of the ski pant wearers should be done.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.717-726
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• 2023

This study collected basic data for the design of and research and development for golf wear with an eye toward various consumer needs such as design, activity, function, comfort, and durability as requirements for golf wear. 64 men and women in their 40s, 50s, and 60s were surveyed on the state of wearing golf wear and their satisfaction of the garments. As a result, it was confirmed that the quality of golf wear participants currently possessed did not sufficiently satisfy the research group consumers. Therefore, research and development of golf wear for these consumers should be advanced, while considering reasonable price, age-appropriate design, pattern development, and material selection with keeping in mind the intended activity level as well as comfort. It was thought that the development of functional golf wear would contribute to more comfortable golf activities.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.493-503
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• 2023

Since ISO 20471 regulations(2013) were enacted, high-visibility clothing made of fluorescent fabric and retroreflective materials has been standardized to distinguish the wearers from the surrounding background in a dark place and to protect them. Accordingly, we made high-visibility safety clothing based on the international standards, and examined the positions of the retro-reflective materials on the attached sites to evaluate the suitability of the positions, by 3 types of safety clothing and the body regions when the wearers work or move. Two retro-reflective films of 5cm-horizontal lines were attached to the front/back of the upper-wear, and the lower-wear. Vertical lines were attached from the shoulder to the horizontal waistline. To analyze the motion in 3-dimension, we took pictured infrared-reflective markers on the retro-reflective film covered with yellow-tape on the front-side when 6 subjects wearing experimental garments performed 6 types of motions. According to the metronome tempo, the motions were performed for 30 seconds and repeated 6 motions ①~⑥ by 3 experimental clothing. Among the 6 motions, significant differences in the appearance rate of the markers by body region during the motions were found in 5 types except for motion ③. Significant differences by the post-hoc test were shown in motions ④ and ⑥ as well. Therefore, for high-visibility safety clothing, it is necessary to anticipate the worker's motion and consider the attaching position of the retro-reflective material. It is considered desirable to attach the retro-reflective materials to several places where the clothing is hard to wrinkle.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.121-135
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• 2024

By reviewing the cultural and historical literature on persimmon juice dyeing and Galot in Korea and Japan, this study aims to show the similarities and differences between the traditional and eco-friendly persimmon juice dyeing practices of these two countries and suggest a direction for the development of modern Galot. The root of persimmon dyeing in Korea is presumed to have begun around the 13^th or 14^th century; however, no documents or records have been found to support this notion. Meanwhile, there are records of persimmon dyeing in Japan that date back to around the 10^th century, but that fact is rarely mentioned. The historical and folk cultural significance of traditional persimmon dyeing in Japan and Korea was different in terms of the use of persimmon dye and the wearing of Galot. In other words, in Korea, Galot was mainly used as work clothes for farmers and fishermen, who took advantage of the garment's functional strength, while kaki-tannin in Japan was applied to fishing tools and industrial materials. Furthermore, Japanese traditional Galot (Kakigoromo) was worn by monks. This was a remarkable difference in that the garments were used as clothing by a special class within society. There were also differences between the two countries in terms of their use of modern persimmon juice dye and Galot. Korea is currently developing and releasing a variety of modern Galots. Meanwhile, Japan is attempting to develop a feeling of relaxation by using the natural colors of Kakisibu dyeing and applying sophisticated traditional pattern printing techniques to modern Galot.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.183-192
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• 2024

The purpose of this study was to collect research related to virtual clothing conducted in Japan with virtual clothing as the keyword, and to understand research trends in the field of virtual clothing, including research timing, content, and methods. By doing so, I attempted to present a direction of travel for future research related to virtual clothing. An analysis of the academic fields of virtual clothing-related journals and dissertations revealed that the fashion field was the most common, followed by the natural sciences and the arts. The distribution of virtual clothing-related studies by year showed a gradual increase after 2000, a decrease between 2016 and 2020, and an increasing trend after the corona pandemic. Marketing was the most common research topic for virtual clothing, followed by virtual fitting, design, materials, and systems. Experimental research was the most common research method related to virtual clothing, followed by survey research and development research. n the future, research on fashion-related system development and verification of the effectiveness of virtual garments is expected to advance. In addition, it would be necessary to analyze trends in virtual clothing research outside of Korea.

• Archives of Plastic Surgery
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.212-233
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• 2024

This is a retrospective review of surgical management for primary lymphedema. Data were extracted from 55 articles from PubMed MEDLINE, Web of Science, SCOPUS, and Cochrane Central Register of Controlled Trials between the database inception and December 2022 to evaluate the outcomes of lymphaticovenous anastomosis (LVA) and vascularized lymph node transfer (VLNT), and outcomes of soft tissue extirpative procedures such as suction-assisted lipectomy (SAL) and extensive soft tissue excision. Data from 485 patients were compiled; these were treated with LVA (n = 177), VLNT (n = 82), SAL (n = 102), and excisional procedures (n = 124). Improvement of the lower extremity lymphedema index, the quality of life (QoL), and lymphedema symptoms were reported in most studies. LVA and VLNT led to symptomatic relief and improved QoL, reaching up to 90 and 61% average circumference reduction, respectively. Cellulitis reduction was reported in 25 and 40% of LVA and VLNT papers, respectively. The extirpative procedures, used mainly in patients with advanced disease, also led to clinical improvement from the volume reduction, as well as reduced incidence of cellulitis, although with poor cosmetic results; 87.5% of these reports recommended postoperative compression garments. The overall complication rates were 1% for LVA, 13% for VLNT, 11% for SAL, and 46% for extirpative procedures. Altogether, only one paper lacked some kind of improvement. Primary lymphedema is amenable to surgical treatment; the currently performed procedures have effectively improved symptoms and QoL in this population. Complication rates are related to the invasiveness of the chosen procedure.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.55-64
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• 2024

This study investigated the usage and product conditions of clothing companies and online dummy companies for the development of fitting dummy for South Korean women's wear in their 50s and 60s. These women-targeted apparel companies mainly used nude-sized torso type and torso crotch type made of FRP material. The frequency of use of the dummies was high, while the user satisfaction was moderate. Users expressed dissatisfaction with the inaccurate reflection of the body shape according to the KS sizing system and the measurements such as the front and back intercye, upper arms, abdomen, crotch, and waist back length. Upon survey, 73.7% of the respondents answered that development of the dummy and the appropriate age for it is 50 to 54, and they preferred the torso crotch form. In the production of online dummy companies, the torso crotch type and torso type were most widely produced, and polyurethane, FRP, and recycled paper materials were used. The size of dummy was expressed in numerical type, and 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 44, 55, 66, 77, 88 were being produced. Even models of the same size had significant deviation, especially in the waist circumference. Also, there was no dummy reflecting 25%~75% center interval to the KS garment sizing standards of women in their 50s and 60s. Therefore, it is desperately necessary to develop a fitting dummy for KS clothing sizing system that reflect their body sizes and shapes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.78-87
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• 2024

This study aimed to propose an innovative teaching pedagogy using a half-scale body form in apparel design education and evaluate its effectiveness in augmenting students' understanding of ergonomic patterns. Constructed in alignment with Phoenix's (2018) study, which used 3D body scanning and digital editing software, the half-scale body form was created through a five-step process, encompassing body measurement, 3D body modeling, fabrication of a physical half-scale body form, pattern making, and evaluation. Implemented in an undergraduate patternmaking course offered at a 4-year university in the metropolitan Seoul, this instructional approach's effectiveness was gauged through students' course projects and exit interviews. The results underscored the positive impact of the proposed teaching pedagogy on students' grasp of ergonomic pattern development, fostering a keen understanding of diverse body shapes and sizes and the relationship between the human body and garments. Furthermore, it played a role in cultivating positive body image and self-endorsement among students. The research contributes meaningfully by presenting a fresh perspective in apparel design education, seamlessly integrating advanced anthropometric and technological tools into a conventional patternmaking classroom. It offers a novel learning experience for students majoring in apparel, creating a fun and interactive teaching environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.999-1011
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• 2008

To most of the students studying fashion related major, the graduation fashion show is a big challenge. They have to put together all they learn and show what they can do to their future employers. They design, pattern work, and make up garments for the show all by themselves. Unfortunately. while they make up their garments, they usually don't Dow exactly body measurements of the models. So quite often they have to alter their art works up to the last minute of the fashion show opening. Sometimes such unadequate work process ruins their work. The purpose of this study is to suggest block patterns of Korean fashion models measurements for basic items, such as jacket and pants for male models and torso length block pattern, skirt and pants for female models. 20 male and 20 female professional models were measured. The block patterns were based on their measurements. After the first fitting test, patterns were corrected by their body characteristic. For both male and female models, it was found desirable to fix the shoulder width and make an adjustment to the patterns with a deviation of width and girth items. In case of the resultant patterns the satisfaction was made better. Model sizes proposed in this study are considered closer to the size of average models, since they were based on A-grade models who are currently working in Korea. The resultant patterns can be produced by simply making a slight adjustment to the width of the proposed pattern in this study.