• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.11
• /
• pp.1836-1843
• /
• 2010

This research examines the possibilities of a traditional costume revival and digital exhibition as well as the application of 3D virtual clothing modeling data in order to preserve and record a disappearing costume heritage to realize it as a social education tool through the newly emerging technology of 3D virtual clothing. A 3D revival of costumes worn by royal families and aristocrats was accomplished through the 3D animation and simulation technology of Maya 2011 (Autodesk, Inc.) and Qualoth (FX Gear, Inc.). The simulation shows the possibility of a 3D revival and digital exhibition of costume heritage. However, further technology support to analyze and realize the composition and design is still necessary to develop the digital contents of traditional garment culture that includes skirt pleats, petticoat silhouettes, that exaggerates the skirts and knots of traditional upper garments (Jeogori). Further studies on design attributes of historic costumes and the upgrading of 3D simulation software are required to realize 3D virtual clothing. Korean traditional costumes will be revived as a cultural content in the digital era as a result of outstanding issues detected by this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.38 no.1
• /
• pp.1-18
• /
• 2014

This study analyzes the styles of Baekje costumes by examining costume types and styles based on the research of old books and a comparative study of archaeological and historical Baekje art relics in Central Asia. The results of the study are as follows. 1. Through the comparative study of the records of old books, relic materials (Yangjikgongdo, Mural paintings of Takamatsuzuka Tumulus, Cheonsuguk Mandarasujang, Shosoin relics, and Haniwas), we can see that ancient Japanese costumes were influenced by the culture of Baekje costumes. 2. A comparative study of the records of relic materials of Baekje and Central Asia show that there were vigorous interchanges between the East and West. 3. Baekje costumes showed a great diversity in styles because they were based on Buyeo costumes developed in conjunction with vigorous overseas trade. 4. Baekje's upper garments are summarized as Boksam and Po for men and Yu, Banbi and Euisapo for women. Boksam and Yu styles varied as tunics and overlapped jackets with straight and round collars. Two types of sleeves coexisted. The sleeves of Hansung Baekje period were a diagonal lined style that was wide on the armhole and narrow on the wrist. The sleeves of Sabi Baekje period were a reversed diagonal lined style that is narrow on the armhole and wide on the wrist. Pants styles were summarized as Gon, Gunggo and Daegugo. There were not enough relics and references for the Baekje costumes; however, this study widens the possibility of the existence of various styles of Baekje costumes through inferences from available data.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.152-159
• /
• 2003

The considerations on the costumes of the past, which have been conducted to the present for the purpose of creating a new design, are not just a simple imitation, but playing a role as a re-creation of fashion. A corset, one of the underwear items, has an important role to exaggerate, emphasize, or modify the beauty of a human body. It also contributes to form a beautiful silhouette of the outerwear. Specifically, the role of a corset today is more than a physical modification: making an underwear into an outerwear; using detailed decorations or materials of an underwear in the part of other garments. In doing these, decorative functions of costumes have been more and more emphasized. Therefore, a study on the composition or design of a corset would be an important study on the garment item that reflects fashions required by this age. The significance of the study is in its potential to provide reference materials needed in creating new underwear designs or the designs that can be made into outerwear products, by trying and producing a corset of the past. To make the corset, the definition of underwear and the characteristics of a corset were explored based on the review of the materials in the foreign museums, relevant photographs, and literature. The corset was made after understanding its minute details and examining its patterns. Pattern drawing was carried out using a Pattern CAD. As an intial phase of reproducing the corsets in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, the scope of the present study was limited to the late Renaissance age, when corsets began to appear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.11 no.3 s.25
• /
• pp.41-55
• /
• 1987

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of napping of knitted fabric on wear sensation and physiological responses. Experimental garments were four types of warm-ups made of either $100\%$ PET or $65/35\%$ P /C and either napped or unnapped respectively. Two healthy young female adults were chosen as subjects for the experiment. Experimental room conditions were as follows: Temp., $22\pm0.5^{\circ}C$ R.H., $54\pm3\%$ and Air Velocity, 0.25m/ sec or 2. 86m/sec. The subjects exercised on bicycle ergometer and rested alternatively for totally 45-min. The results are summarized as follows. 1) With napped Warm-up, chest, back, mean skin temp. and microclimates, i.e., temp., relative humidity and water vapor pressure inside the clothing, were higher than with unnapped warm-up. And there was no difference in pulse rate between napped and unnapped warm-ups. 2) Wear sensations of thermal, humidity, tactile and comfort were 'more hot' and 'more uncomfortable' in 0.25m/sec air velocity. but in 2.86m/sec condition the tactile sensation was 'better' and 'more comfortable' with napped warm-ups. According to Pearson's Correlation, among various kinds of wear sensations, tactile is most related with comfort. From these results, it can be concluded that napped fabric decreases the rate of heat trans? mission and moisture diffusion through the clothing. Therefore skin and body temp. and temp., R.H., Vapor Pressure inside the clothing are increased.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.7 no.2
• /
• pp.61-74
• /
• 2005

Wonsam, a type of korean women's gown in Choseon Dynasty, was used as a small ceremonial costume for queens, crown princesses and princesses and as a grand ceremonial costume for royal concubines and wives of high rank officials. It was also worn as a wedding dress for commoners. In the families of illustrious officials, it was also used as burial accessories or garments for the dead. In this context, Wonsam is a formal dress for the people's most important four ceremonies of coming-of-age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor worship. It is worth emphasizing the costume since it was widely and importantly used by all ranks of women, from royal families to commoners. Through the Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's, we can see what the society was like at the end of Choseon Dynasty. First, a status system that strictly divided costumes for each class, was, in many parts, broken down. Second, the highly wrought patterns and texture of fabrics of the Wonsam reveal that it was granted from Court, or, if woven by the Kim family, it is considered to be produced by the Court's craftsman or through technical transfer, considering that the weaving skills used are as good as those in Courts. Third, regarding the precise needlework that is uncomparable to textiles used by other illustrious officials families, the Wonsam is considered to be granted from Court or, produced through the needlework skills that were handed down from needlewomen in Courts. The Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's has noble beauty in it, with outstanding weaving skills, fabrics, needlework and shape. Thus, it is no exaggeration to say that it has those qualities to be the standard costume that inherits the tradition of Korean people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
• /
• v.5 no.1 s.12
• /
• pp.78-86
• /
• 2007

One of the latest social trends is to reappear old things under the banner of the revival. It is easily found in the fashion industry because Fashion is not divided into the past, the present and the future thing but coexisting through all ages. The purpose of this study was to pursue the healthy and characteristic beauty of the modem people by understanding the beauty culture of the ancient. The Middle ages were mainly classified into Byzantine, Romanesque and Gothic by historical and cultural factors. In the Byzantine age, the clothing with rich silhouette was worn by the influence of the abstemious religion and it didn't express a specific proportion of human body. The people covered their hair with turbans and veils for the period. The Romanesque era was affected by the religious idealism and the Greek-Roman culture. The ideal proportion of human body could be 8 heads high and the clothes expressing natural silhouette of human body came out. Depending on the feel of the flowing texture, long-braided hair was typical in that time, and also wearing kinds of head dress as personal ornaments was characteristic in the age. In the period of Gothic, the long and weak human body was emphasized. The ideal proportion of human body could be figured with 8.5 heads high and it was expressed with the form of artificial and vertical silhouette such like tight-fitting upper garments, gathered skirts and long hats.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.4
• /
• pp.21-45
• /
• 2004

The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference： vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.2
• /
• pp.1-12
• /
• 2012

Cloths wrapped around the body have been the basis of the dress of people all over the world for centuries. This study is to research detailed modifiable fashion styling methods in history and to give ideas to people such as fashion professionals who are interested in fashion styling so that they can create modifiable fashion styling easily in fashion fields. The characteristics of modifiable fashion styling methods from ancient to middle ages are as follows. The first modifiable styling method is to expose the knots on the surface of the garments, and the knots were mainly located on the upper part of the body. The second method is a wrapping type of the modifiable styling method, which shows a lot of variant simple shapes of cloths. This method helped develop many wrapping methods over time. The third way is the fixed type of the modifiable styling method, and it uses accessories such as fibulae, belts to fix cloths, to create many different styles. The accessories are located on around either the neck or waist. The fourth method is the composite type of the modifiable styling methods mentioned above. This styling method is adapted in robe type clothes which makes the clothes look full of beautiful drapery. This study suggests that simple shapes of cloths can create enormous amount of styling which can be easily adapted and created nowadays.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.7 s.155
• /
• pp.1160-1167
• /
• 2006

The most ideal textile conservation is to block oxygen and light from historical textiles. However it is not possible because historical textiles should be examined, cleaned, restored, and exhibited to find out its historical value. Most of excavated costumes were severely stained and soiled. They are dark yellowish brown in color. To reduce the extent and intensity of the staining and to recover the original color of gray fabrics, bleaching would be required. Conservation treatment was carried out on the 8 historical costumes which belonged to General Duk-Ryung Kim(1567-1596). Two of them do not hold the fabrics. They hold only cotton wool and a little piece of fabrics. Even though these costumes underwent the conservation treatment in 1979, they were stained and needed re-treatment. This time, they were dual-bleached using hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride followed by wet cleaning to reduce the soils and stains. The treatments improved the appearance of costumes. Through the analysis of the trace of fabric, carbonized fabric fragment, and fabrics remained in other garments, we concluded the missing fabrics to be ramie or cotton. It is different result from the primary report concluded to be silk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.11 s.158
• /
• pp.1519-1530
• /
• 2006

This study has surveyed and analyzed in 2005 S/S domestic men's street fashion by using the Web-SFAS system that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total of 270 men who were sensitive to fashion were surveyed around 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone was shown as follows. 1. The most interest in producing fashionable shape when they go out was in the order of clothes>hair style>shoes and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone was to meet with friends>watching movies>shopping etc. 2. T-shirts were most preferred as upper garments and as for bottoms, blue jeans were preferred. Black, gray, and white colors were most preferred and blue color was most preferred primarily due to the preference for blue jeans. The color image was proven mainly modem and light tone, comfortable and casual items were preferred. An active comfort casual image emphasized with activeness by coordinating comfortable T-shirts or shirts with blue jeans were most preferred in 9 areas. 3. A clear difference was confirmed in color by commercial area. Blackish color was most prevalent in Daehakro whereas simple color was mostly shown around Hongik University area. Bright and unique colors such as green and violate were dominant at Dae-Gu Dongseongro, and basic colors such as white and black were preferred in Masan Hapseong-dong and Changwon Sangnam-dong. Through the results of nationwide street fashion survey, the each commercial zone has unique characteristics in fashion trend even in the same city, rather than the regional difference in Seoul and local city.