• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1502-1513
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. 1. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. 2. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score 3. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the bort functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.183-196
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• 2015

This study aims to develop sleeve pattern of tailored jacket which shows seamlessly beauty of females in their twenties who have relatively smaller change of body compared people of other ages and has outstanding functional operation. So we selected a pattern of manufacturer who received highest score after evaluating wearing condition of three types of jacket in the industry, whose targets are career women in their twenties and then tested its appearance and functional operation of 6 experimental jackets with armhole depth of B/4 and B/4-1(cm) along with sleeve cap height of A.H/3, A.H/3+1, A.H/3+2. As a result, the pattern which has good result of external appearance evaluation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+2 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+1. The pattern of good result for movement adaptation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3. So we could find that the larger is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on adaptability of jacket it makes and that the smaller is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on movement adaptability of jacket it makes. It has been proved that armhole depth of tailored jacket of females in their twenties doesn't affect significantly on its appearance when designing it but it makes good influence on movement adaptability when experimental clothing has armhole depth of B/4-1and that sleeve cap height of A.H/3 that is 1cm shorter than A.H/3+1 which is used in industry makes good influence on appearance and functional operation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.585-598
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• 2017

Sports climbing requires more maximum body motion range than any other sport. This study examined what element affects the actions of sports climbers and suggest an ideal pattern archetype to maximize function based on motion. The theoretical background included abstracted elements influencing clothing design by researching the body type of sports climbers and the motion of sports climbing. Along with the characteristic of climbing wear, this study also conducted a comparative analysis of sleeve patterns for sports climbing wear and general sports jackets, abstracting comparative parts that influence sports climbing wear design. To develop the final research archetype, research was done on 107 sports climbers in their 20s-30s that selected the top 3 brands and collected patterns as well. A research archetype was selected based on 3-D virtual clothing and developed into 4 different patterns with different sleeve cap heights. Appearance evaluation and a motion functionality evaluation were then conducted in order to select a final research archetype adequate for sports climbing based on evaluation findings. In addition, this study identified aesthetical problems of the final research archetype produced based on functionality that could suggest an archetype for a climbing jacket that could be visually satisfying through appearance evaluations and motion functionality evaluations.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.953-970
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.7
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• pp.185-200
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fitness using the draft method to develop moderate-stretch knit block pattern for young women in Korea. The subjects were three women within the range of the ages from 18 to 24 showing the average body figures. In this study, 4 different patterns were drafted for the moderate stretch knitted fabrics, that were categorised into two different types. The first type of these was made up for kilted fabrics and the other was initially drafted for woven fabrics and altered for knitted materials afterward. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows; 1. According to each sensory evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, knit block patterns A and D were the better than the rest of them. 2. Knit block patterns A and D with higher evaluation scores were drafted with body size measurements except the waist line, whereas patterns B and C with relatively lower scores were produced including the smaller ease amounts than the woven block pattern. 3. To see the results of the functional test based on the designed ten motions for this experiment, knit block patterns A and B were concluded as better than the rest of them. In addition, concerning the arm liking motions, pattern B was scored as the best among the developed patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.29-39
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• 2002

It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.249-261
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• 2004

This research proves the ROM method (Range Of Motion), which has already been used in other countries, that measures the capacity of exercise and the adaptation of movement of functional garments for special purpose due to change of the height of basic sleeve sloper. Basically, the ultimate goal of the research is to improve the functional pattern design. Firstly, this research proves the proper application of ROM that is used for the evaluation of fitting test. Therefore, according to this research, the company is able to produce the sample that is appropriate to the various purpose for women garments and betters the evaluation of function of garments. Moreover, it suggests that the evaluation of fitting test satisfies the consumers who desire to try better garments and contributes to the competitions among the companies that bring more improvements to the fashion design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.781-792
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• 2015

This study aims to develop a spring/fall motorcycle jacket for quick service transporter. Depending on the results of the previous research, this study produced the tested jacket which was improved in material, pattern, and design. For the tested jacket, 100% polyester fabric excellent in strength, durability and abrasion-resistance was selected as a major material, and Cordura was used as a partial material to improve the strength and abrasion-resistance of the sleeve side lines, elbow and shoulder areas. The retro-reflection material was applied partially in order to improve visibility of the jacket in the night or in a dark place. A total of 7 pockets were composed in the jacket for the sufficient storage spaces. The functional design elements such as the 2-way zipper and the placket at the center front, the action pleats at the upper part of back armholes, the pit-zip at armpit were applied. In addition, the sleeve pattern was bent with the shape of elbow curvature in time of driving and the back length of the jacket was lengthened 4cm. As a result of the appearance assessment, there was a significant difference from the existing jacket in all items but chest size, shoulder width, cuffs circumference, and jacket hemline circumference. In motion adaptability and field activity appropriateness assessments, the assessment grade for all items was found to be commonly higher than that of the existing jacket, and thus, the tested jacket was assessed to be suitable for a motorcycle jacket design for the quick service transporters.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.433-440
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• 2006

This research was made to suggest a functional and fitted prototype of swallow-tailed coat for sports dance. We established the basic posture of standard dance from literature investigations, and grasped the changes of the body side-surface by motions through the gypsum-experiments with a man in twenty. The unfolded gypsum shells were overlapped on the basic swallow-tailed coats pattern drafted by their size of experimenter. From our results through analysis, our pattern of the swallow-tailed coats for sports dance was designed considering their functional and structural character. In case of upper body with the greatly increased shoulder width of garment and with the decreased front. When moving, owing to the rising of the armpit point, the side-line becomes longer with the shoulder length decreased greatly. In case of sleeves, the length of sleeves back increased greatly by the arm-bending motions while sleeve height becomes lowered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.852-859
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• 1996

The factors and mechanism of arm surface changes were analyzed by regression analysis for the relationship between changes in arm joint angle and arm surface changes, according to the direction of upper extremity motion. Body surface change patterns among subjects were tested also. Experiments were carried out on 3 female subjects of different body types to examine 26 motions in 4 directions for 4 upper extremity parts. The major conclusions of the study are as follows: 1. The expansion or contraction of arm surface length depends on the direction of upper extremity motion. 2. Arm surface length changes by linear expansion or contraction according to the joint angle of the direction of motion. The mechanism of arm surface changes is represented by a linear relation between arm surface changes and the (actors of the direction of upper extremity motion and arm joint angle. 3. Arm surface length shows the same pattern of body surface changes regardless of body type. A quantitative model of body surface changes at upper extremity should be developed for functional sleeve design.