• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.76-91
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to prescribe formative perspectives as a framework where the aesthetic taste and demands of a certain period are embodied and to develop new analytical tools to examine the beauty of dress in terms of form. First, the theoretical tools selected for this study are Heinrich Wolfflin's formative perspective theory derived from art and Marilyn R. DeLong's framework for visual analysis of dress. Second, several issues that limited the development of a new framework for analyzing the form of dress were identified and addressed. Third, the selected aspects of dress form to be analyzed are specified. They are: silhouette, inner form, structure form, materials and patterns based upon the relationship between the body, dress and space in order to develop new formative perspectives. Based upon these theories a new framework for analyzing dress aesthetics in terms of form is developed. This reconstructed framework consists of three sets of antagonistic representational styles: closed form/open form, linear form/painterly form and multiplicity/unity. Closed form/open form represented in dress can be classified by the clear or obscure silhouette shown not only in the relationship between the dress and space around the dress, but also from changeability or invariability of dress in relation to the body. The material, pattern and various design elements are used as the central criteria to determine the linear/painterly characteristics in dress representations. Finally, the multiplicity/unity can be found in the relationship between the whole and the parts. Multiplicity is represented in dress when the parts have a visual priority over the whole, whereas unity is represented when a dress as a whole has visual priority over the parts. A dress represented with closed form, linear characteristic and multiplicity is perceived as a clear form. In contrast, a dress with open form, painterly characteristic and unity is understood to be an obscure form. It can be said that this study is the first attempt to establish the formative perspectives for analyzing the form of dress in various periods, cultures and races for the future studies.

• Archives of design research
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.231-240
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• 2003

As all other cultures do, in the background of color of costume, view of life or spirit are contained in the nature or environment that the people lived in are applied. Marring is the ceremony to be socially recognized that both of sexes are unified, assist ancestor and bear future generation. Meaning and symbolism of color are appeared in beauty and organic composition of Lee dynasty. This paper tried to dear up five colors are dean, beautiful and philosophical colors rather than awkward composition of colors through surveying character of five colors appeared in Korean traditional wedding dress that has been succeeded in present age. This paper compared Korean traditional wedding dress and "Dan-chung" of Korea, Japan and China and surveyed theoretical background of Korean traditional color to find character of color appeared in Korean traditional wedding dress. As a result, Korean traditional color is meaningful symbolic color, its origin starts in yin-yang and the live elements of the Oriental cosmogony and it is related with Taoism of Confucianism and color of "Dan-chung." Five colors of yin-yang means everything under the sun and il is the color achieving beauty of balance due to correlation when it is linked to over one color. Further, it contains nature worship and human dignity, prays happiness and gives the significance of "Buksa", meaning of expelling an evil spirit. Formative beauty praying that all creatures are harmonized while human is happy and escapes from uncertainty is the beauty pursuing mental satisfaction as well as visual satisfaction. In future, the creational and characteristic designs that can appeal to world are required through right understanding and study of the beauty of traditional culture beauty of traditional culture

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.663-670
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• 2007

Arts is the expression of reasoning and conscious life of human and arouse human the concept of existence, utmost emotion and excellent thoughts. Also it makes humans life very abundant. I make it come first to get rid of the art thirst on the opposite sight of technical one for hair as on part of humans body. Next purpose is that to confirm the esthetic value of 'hair arts' by solidify the academic ground of beauty arts through creating 'hair arts' works and learning and make the direction for the beauty industry and education of the next generation. In this study I investigated the Greek myth and the hair styles of ancient Greek Goddesses. On the basis of that symbols I elaborated hair formative works made of metal and studied, analyzed and displayed that. Work No.1 'aphne' pictures the second of changing into a laurel tree avoiding the love. Secondly 'Muse Erato' was exhibited the peaceful figure that have enough the fine melodies. 'Leda' brings out the feature of Leda resembling a swan and the fourth piece, 'Eos' conveys the brilliant and mystery of dawn. So this study conducted based on the concept of practical hair and have made efforts to be close to theoretical manufacturing research needed at making hair arts works and academic one needed at organic design composition for pioneering new field, 'art hair.' I hope these 'hair arts' works make creativity of the practise hair alive. It will be very thankful to me if this study can help even though slightly for splendid beauty arts to make its status firm as a one part of arts, and there are following studies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.165-175
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• 2007

Religion affects all the dimension of human beings, and at the same time it forms one dimension of human beings. Costume Is considered as a result that reflects the phases of the time and the characteristics of a wearer. Costume, also, has been influenced by religion that has led one's belief, social spirit and culture for a long period of time. The Eastern aesthetics has expanded the area of thoughts with the concepts that originated from Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. Among the concepts, Non-Dualistic Theory is the core idea of Buddhism.'rho theory contains the moaning that one should not lean to one side between existence and nonexistence and should not be obsessed with the center. It was the most powerful Buddhistic idea that had an influence on Asian aesthetics. Korean traditional costume is not an exception. This study has a significance that it was conducted to understand the relation between religious principle and traditional custom through mainly using documentary records. The formative characteristics of Korean traditional costume influenced by Non-Dualistic Theory ran be summarized as non-structure like, indeterminate forms, amorphousness and anti-decoration such as plainness, temperance and achromatic color. Aesthetic value was expressed through 'the aesthetic of emptiness', 'the aesthetic of hiding', and 'the aesthetic of nature'. Although the appearance of a religious symbol can change, an essential element in religion lasts as human society remains. Although our clothing culture has converted to western style, Korean traditional aesthetics is placed deep inside of 'the Koreans' spirit and has a consistent effect on our overall culture of clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.16 no.10
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• pp.479-484
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• 2018

This study is an attempt to analyze the changes and morphological analysis of the one length hair style of women in the Imperial Japanese colonial period, and the purpose of this study is to analyze the components of hair design such as shape, texture, and color based on the precedent and the book and to make possible various styles of one length hair style cut. From the results of this study, one length hair style showed the outline shape with no step height of cut length, natural hair texture and natural hair color in 1910s to 1920s. In the 1930s, the one length hair style showed a slight cut length step height and a slight discoloration using a diamond shape, a narrow wave of natural texture, hydrogen peroxide or oxygenated water. In the 1940s, one length hair style did not find any singularity to pursue brilliant beauty(美) in terms of form, texture, and color. This study may enable a deep and detailed follow up study on one length hair style, and will be a cornerstone for the development of basic data of hair beauty education and trend of new mode.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.763-780
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• 2002

The aim of this research is to analyze Vionnet´s geometric features, which can be regarded as the key formative beauty among the external characteristics of her works. and to thereby establish the theory that her works emitted a time-transcending life force because they were patterns designed based on a geometrical frame of mind. To prove such argument, studies to understand the basic geometrical aspects appearing in her works will be made by taking a look at the general features of geometry, viewing Vionnet´s philosophy for designing, and examining the geometric cutting methods. The period covered in this paper will center mainly on dresses Vionnet made from her very active days in the fashion sector, 1919. till when she retired from the fashion industry, around 1939. What's outstanding about Vionnet´s geometric principle expressed in her works is the unique cutting method that acknowledges the silhouette of the human body as a cubic or three-dimensions concept, through insight of the human body, the mechanics of the materials, and geometry. Vionnet introduced a simple and elegant design by combining geometric figure cuts, such as rectan히es. quadrants, and triangles. Moreover, she created a new sewing structure that plans everything about the materials to the tiniest detail, resulting in producing a softer style With this, Vionnet showed the geometrical correlation can bring about harmony and the beauty of ideal proportion, forming the source of eternal beauty. As discussed so fu, the geometrical characteristics appearing in Vionnet´s works are marked such as spirals, zig-zag lines, asymmetries. panels, gradation, golden proportion, and the mobius-band.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.108-118
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• 2019

Appreciating gardens in garden show has its meaning in appreciating concepts and ideas of artists, hidden inside of garden, as formative arts, as well as the beauty of the nature. This study is aimed to understand the intension of artists in visual expression through formative media in the gardens by assessing structure of visual narrative in the space with 20 artworks among the ones presented in 2018 Taehwagang Garden Show. The formative structure is delivered as contents and forms through formative media and formative language. Thus, for analysis on the artworks, the researcher assessed expressive characteristics of the media, through visual and space language, that forms the formative structure in the contest of narrative structure expressed in the gardens and findings of the analysis are as follows. First, for intertextuality obtained through media image, most of the artworks delivered message through 'figure image.' This means, the concept is delivered as 'affinity of actual objects' through the media and associated 'meaning and meaning action' are expected. Second, the characteristics of signs to show symbolism in the gardens were categorized into 'icon'. 'index' and 'symbol'. The results showed that most of the artworks expressed common characteristics between image and meaning, using 'icon' and 'symbol'. Third, as space formation components, based on formative principles, the components of 'dominant' and 'subordinate' roles were defined as the key components for meaning delivery. Also, it was understood that 'space configuration with overlapped image' and 'space configuration with transparency' were adopted to strengthen conceptional layers. Forth, for space occupation types, there were mostly central hall type, corridor type and passage space type and for open space type, the entire space area was conceptualized, instead of certain object. The circulation line was defined in the frequency order of circular type, pass type and return type. The study on the expressive characteristics of visual narrative in garden design is meaningful as it could build base data for the method of spatial design for visual development of concepts in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.7 s.144
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• pp.909-917
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• 2005

Based on the theory that formation of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is related to Mobius strip, this study researches correlation between distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers and historical background based on old documents and restoration. Distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers are as follows. First, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is manufactured just like Principle of Mobius strip that the square is twisted once, considering its materials' conditions. Second, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, manufactured larger, feature cubic effect and twisted formative beauty because its waist and ankle parts are tightened with bands. Third, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, composed of big Sapok and small Sapok in oblique, are suitable for active play due to its high functionality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.232-246
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate aesthetic characteristics and aesthetic consciousness of the style that European fashion(Paris, London, Netherlands) has accepted the since $19^{th}$ century. The mode Japonisme's development process in around $20^{th}$ century and 21st century has 6 characteristics as follows; 1. Accepting kimono as dressing gown 2. Accepting kimono as Japanese style's objet of Japanese taste 3. Accepting Japanese textile's skills, patterns, and asymmetry. 4. Accepting kimono's formative nature : flat pattern, flexibility, style etc. 5. Shocking of Japanese style's beauty 6. Accepting characters and casual wear Japanese aesthetic consciousness expressed on unconstructed design or deconstructed design that is the aesthetic characteristic of Japanese fashion is , , and the aesthetic consciousness expressed on Zen(Seon) style, cartoons of character fashion, and costume play is .