• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.32-42
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• 2005

This paper aims to propose fashion designs based on the application of art flower technique to translucent clothing material. For study method, firstly I looked into art flower applications occurred in modern trend since 2000 as well as theoretical research on art flower and transparency expressed as artificial beauty. Second, I attempt to express transparency in a variety of unique ways by using the art flower technique in producing clothes. Third, I utilized transparent flower with translucent clothing material and tried to suggest fashion design attempting mixture of new materials. As a result, firstly transparent image and material are well fitted in with modern trend and especially it was very suitable for expressing feminine beauty. Second, transparency was the element to suggest creative formative world in fashion design in regard to flower's beauty, various shapes and colors and to provide infinite materials as design motive. Third, the combination of knit clothing and plastic art flower displayed a new form of material combination. Especially as translucent material is fitted with trend such as function, lightness and variableness in modern times of the $21^{st}$ century, it presents beautiful combination with transparent flower. Fourth, Silk flower technique is variously used in art flower techniques. Various possibility ranges are presented such as flower was recreated with artificial image by silk flower technique to be newly expressed and various materials like aesthete film can be also expressed with silk flower technique.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.43-53
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to show inherent and differentiated beauty by designing costume knitwear using Dancho patterns representing peculiar beauty, thus expressing free and convenient knitwear in the modern sense for women with the image of reasonableness and elegance, proposing knit design using high-class materials for satisfying the demand for the highest. With regard to expression technique of works, I selected computer Jacquard method to indicate effective comparison effect of expression material and made expression with $12{\sim}14$ gauge as base by using computer knitting machine. Through above-mentioned research process and design using Knit CAD system, I obtained following conclusion. First, it is possible to express variously and widely traditional patterns by making the most of the beauty of the orient and by recomposing the patterns of plant patterns representing "feminine image". Second, it is possible to widely represent the sense you can feel from knit by expressing variously diversity of knit structure and Jacquard knitting structure and gauge. Finally, it is possible to express designs more freely and imaginably by using computer Knit CAD system instead of actual knitting of various knit expression technique and materials application.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.33-45
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• 2013

This work developed the basic motive design utilizing the physical beauty of the traditional ornaments used uniquely by Korean females and suggested some textile designs and fashion cultural product designs. As a research method, computer design programs Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used as well as literature examination. The motive was mainly based on the dwiggoji and ddeoljam, which are female ornaments. The formative shape in woman ornaments was classified into four kinds: plant, animal, geometry, and hybrid. The hybrid type was divided further into such combinations as plant, animal, and geometry, which came up with 8 fundamental motives for design development in total. With regard to the basic motive design, the coordinated concept was adopted with a combination of traditional taste and contemporary taste in harmony for the expression of delicate image on the condition that the basic format in female ornament is maintained. Textile design was processed with symmetry, rotation, repeat, and overlap as fundamental motive. As to the design for fashion cultural products, design mapping was proposed for neckties, handbags, clutches, shirts, and one-pieces. Utility and beauty in the traditional ornaments unique to Korean women could be recognized once again through this work. This work also assured the possibility for the endless improvement as a design development motive with originality.

• 복식
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• 제62권2호
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• pp.68-77
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• 2012

Hair style takes a large part in emphasizing to the appearance and the effect of image transformation with fashion to the modern people whose competition is appearance in 21 century. According to the development of mass media and the exchange of the life style. Image creation which correspond to T.P.O is needed and style-up is also required in modern costume, as the coordination for special day is routinized. In this study, the expression of a fine and organic line shown as a motive in Art Nouveau style's works is applied to style-up design and a new view sight to the style-up design through the art history is suggested with developing style-up design to satisfy the upgraded customer's requirements. The feminine beauty is appeared as a various image by applying style-up design from Art Nouveau style through this study. and the infinite possibility to the design development can be found with activated motive of Art Nouveau. These Art Nouveau trend will be a foundation to the inspiration of high artistic design and will be helpful to the aesthetic satisfaction of the elegance modern people. Therefore, I hope this study will be a fundamental data for creative development of hair design through the art history which may be forgetting.

• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.29-48
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• 2012

From ancient to modern days, Koreans have preferred and even worshiped white clothes to the extent that they are called "the white-clad race", and the color black has seldom been used for women's clothes. In western countries too, it was only after Chanel that black color came to represent feminine beauty. Black clothes were introduced in Korea after the opening of its ports to foreign countries in 1876 and have mainly been worn as a practical clolor for winter coats and school uniforms. The traditional preference for white and other bright colors continued well into the 1980s. However, the industrialization and urbanization caused by economic development and the influx of western cultures and ideas in the 1980s brought about the westernization of Korean aesthetic consciousness and resulted in the phenomenon of modern Korean women's preference for black fashion that became conspicuous from 1991. With the introduction of western fashion after the opening of the country in 1876, the spiritual values contained in preference for white clothes have been substituted by materialistic values as people accepted the practical beauty of black fashion, and the inclination toward intrinsic natural beauty intrinsic in the aesthetic senses that preferred white clothes has been replaced by the preference for modern, elegant and sensual beauties of black fashion whose preference has begun in the 1990s.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.11-25
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• 2008

John William Waterhouse (1849-1917) is a painter renown for his romantic beautiful femme fatale images in the late 19th century in England. The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion in Waterhouse's femme fatale images. Waterhouse displays the devilism of femme fatale by the symbols of a wicked woman. He emphasized how wicked she is by means of water such as lake, river, and sea as well as symbols associated with demons such as forest, cave, naked woman, long hair, a monster-headed woman looking like an animal, water lily, and garden. On the other hand, he illustrates the woman's style as an image of a typical feminine beauty. Expressing naturally a fine-curved, immature girl's body with marvel-like white and clear skin in a kneeling down or crouching passive rose and depicting it as an innocent and fragile feminine image, he created a passive and lovely image of a young girl. With her eminent beauty and sex appeals, she lured men into danger. Words such as evil, women, and death had been used in describing her as femme fatale to emphasize her wickedness as well as to deliver the meaning across from the inside and to the outside. They also described her as a type of woman with body posture and fashion corresponding to the sexual ideology during the Victorian Age. His description of this fashion image was to show that femme fatale's fashion, which represents attraction and fatality, does not necessarily translate to an active fashion style that emphasizes sensuality. It also tends to minimize resistance and feelings of being threatened. Therefore, it allons us to acknowledge that even girlish body with innocent and frail-looking fashion can be a form of femme fatale, and that fashion styles is essential in forming the image of femininity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권8호
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• pp.1076-1087
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to give new aesthetic values of black dress one of the important items in contemporary women＇s fashion. Through the work, to give the new aesthetic characteristics that women really needed can be found. This study was processed by fashion books and articles, literal material with fashion photos which were related fashion trend from 1920 to the present. The results are as follows: In early 20th century, the black dress, which had simple form pursuing function like little black dress. In the middle of the 20th century, elegance and minimalism was represented by black dress, expressed erotic images together with see-through fabrics. In the end of the 20th century, body conscious style of black dress expressed sensual images of women. Modem black dress has design characteristics of the form: simple, close, exposure type and of the materials: matte, transparent and dazzling etc. Simple type emphasizes feminine elegance, while close type and exposure type disclose woman body curve to express erotic images. Matte materials made black dress express feminine elegance while transparent materials and dazzling materials made black dress express erotic and sensual beauty. The aesthetic characteristics of black dress were as followings: Sensualism expresses sexual attractiveness of women-close type and exposure type black dress and see-through materials and dazzling materials made black dress. Simplicity of extreme decoration effects are expressed through black dress having temperate and simple form. Femineity expresses traditional femineity to emphasize chaste, modest and elegant women images-the black dress, which is made of simple form, velvet and satin materials. Modernism combines black colour, which is called modem colour, with simplicity and function factors and pursues simple form. Ascetic practice controls mental and physical desire of the individuals, simple form without decoration covering up woman body and box type silhouette of black dress. Therefore, the study on image of the black dress, which have made appearance at modern fashion, is thought to help develop fashion trends and design, through which modern women express themselves and their beauty.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.97-118
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• 2000

The purposes of the present research were (1) to investigate the sociological factors influencing the increase of ambivalence and the relationship between, the ambivalence and fashion change(2) to categorize sets of the ambivalence expressed for contemporary fashion and (3) to examine the frequency and the patterns of ambivalence presented for contemporary fashion. This research was conducted through in depth literature review and content analysis. Data was collected from 806 colored pictures presented on 'Collections' from 1972 to 1988. Eight types of clothing cues were incluede: look color texture decorative motifs of clothing collar sleeve and wearer's headdress/hair style and make-up. The results of this study were as follows: 1 The popularization of culture has been accelerated by mass production mass consumption and mass media. Since the 1980s postmodernism and poststructuralism have resulted in the breakdown of dualistic distinction. As the ambiguity of meaning in appearance increases the meaning is negotiated constantly for identity. 2. The most frequenctly expressed ambivalence in clothing was feminity/masculinity and tradition/modernity and wealth/poverty was the least. The number of ambivalent expression were the highest during 1990s. The rapid growth in ambivalence of tradition/modernity was found in 1970s feminity/masculinity in 1980s and modesty/immodesty in 1990s. Within a clothing style ambivalence was manifested through feminine look in white for beauty/ugliness feminine look mainly in yellow/red for wealty/poverty sexy look dominantly in black for modesty/immodesty androgynous look in black for feminity/masculinity and through ecology look most frequently in black for tradition/modernity.

• 복식
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.103-115
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is understanding modern woman's various aesthetic values and aesthetic sense through observing expression aspects of gender images in the 1990s military fashion and analyzing their aesthetic characteristics and formative factors. Gender images in military fashion have expressed the masculine image of authoritative image and offensive image and offensive image, and the feminine image of conservative image and ostentatious image, sensual image. The authoritative image showed authority and dignity of military uniform by using the classic military uniform's image. This spoke for desire of women to rise their position. Heroism and androcentrism affected as its formation factor. The offensive image destroyed original dignified image of military uniform by that resistance to authoritative image and existing gender identity appeared as way-out form and deconstructive expression. Anti-establishment spirit, resistance to gender identity, and deconstructionism affected as its formation factor. The conservative image expressed military fashion only with slim and soft silhouette, curved line, color, and simple details by magnifying feminity. Fallen man's authority affected as its formation factor. The ostentatious image expressed military fashion with magnifying accessories such as gold button and belt by women who wanted to display ostentatiously their social position and charm. The aspiration for class of elite affected as its formation factor. The sensual image intended to show erotic voluptuous beauty of woman's body by indirect and direct body exposure. Narcissism, desire to show, and sexual amusement affected as its formation factor.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.117-130
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• 2001

The purpose of this research focuses mainly on the establishment of: the image of the police that can be adopted to meet the demands of reality through the development of the design of policewomen's uniform in the times that require reestablishment of the image of the police; the image of the police that is appropriate for the organic structure of the society; and the image of the police that cooperate with the citizens. For background research I have considered the police and their uniforms from a theoretical point of view and have examined the process by which Korean policewomen's uniforms have changed. Actual research was carried out policewomen of Seoul Regional Police Station, was conducted and the results were utilized to figure out what the problem was. This research suggests an improvement measure by making four suits of summer and spring-and-autumn work-uniforms, and six suits of spring-andautumn and winter full-dress uniform. First the colors of work-uniforms and full-dress uniforms are not blue, which incites a feeling of coldness and stiffness, but are colors that are feminine and emit warmth---red, ivory, khaki, black, and beige. second pure, natural fiber is difficult to wash and is not an appropriate material for policewomen's uniforms when considering its cost and etc., fabrics that are a mix of synthetic fiber and natural fiber were chosen. Because mixed fabrics are cheaper and their ability to maintain shape is superior to that of natural fiber, mixed fabric is an appropriate material for policewomen's uniforms. third the feminine image of policewomen was considered; therefore, masculine image, which is rigid and strong, was avoided and the image was expressed in a serene and beautiful way. Also slim line was added to the current uniforms to emphasize feminine beauty. The conclusion of this study is that police officers in the 21st century want to be seen as the citizens cane and benevolent volunteers that live together with the citizens, not as suppressive and powerful people.