• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.11-25
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to investigate how the young fashion which maintains a large share of fashion market emerged in the 1960s, its characteristics and what its influences on the contemporary fashion industry are. In particular, I am going to consider the significance of the young fashion by looking at the formation of niche market, the emergence of mass market for fashion, the expansion of aesthetic categories. we will be able to see the 60s young fashion of the young generation who emerged as new consumers in mass consumer culture exerted important influences on the contemporary fashion industry. First, the counterculture of young generation who rebeled against the uniformity of mass production helped the formation of new niche market. Second, the young fashion which pursued the lower prices for fashion made a big contribution to the popularization of fashion. The young generations tendency to demand new things and rapid change coincided with that of inexpensive popular fashion people can buy and change more easily than expensive high fashion. Lastly, the playful tendency of the young fashion expanded the aesthetic boundaries of the clothing, going beyond the uniformity of modernism with the emergency of diverse fashion materials - fabric and textiles - enable by technological development and the miniaturization of forms as revealed in mini skirt.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.167-181
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• 1992

This study was conducted to clarify the formativeness of Cezanne's painting and it's influence on the Modern Fashion. Recently, fashion was introduced and applied the originality of paintings into the fabric and fashion designing. To go with the current of the times I already discussed about the Modern Fashion under the influence of the color of Impressionism and N대-Impressionism in the previous paper. In this study, Cezanne's painting and it's influence on the Modern fashion was investigated. As one of the original Impressionist, Paul Cez anne had been so adversely affected by the critical attack on his contributions to the 1874 and 1877 exhibitions that he never again showed with the group. That is, he was the first Impressionist to become dissatisfied with the superficial recording of atmospheric effects. When he turned to nature, it was not simply to depict the objects that occupied a given site but rather to consider relationships among those objects. Cezanne attempted to track down the fundamental laws of geometrical prototypes of sphere, prism and corn. Color too, he found, could be employed according to principle, like the tones of a musical scale. Throughout the Modern Fashion, various forms of Bustle style dress and geometrical style dress were reappered under the influence of the Cez anne's painting technique. And the order and the unity of all nature was illuminated on the fashion's pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권1호
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• pp.98-115
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• 2017

This study categorizes the formative aspects of dress and their implications according to the extent of revealing or concealing corporeality based on body perceptions. By considering the notion of dress as bodily practice to be a theoretical and methodological framework, this study combines a literature survey and case analysis to analyze and classify the forms of women's dress since the 1920s when contemporary fashion took hold. As examined in this study, the typology of dress was categorized as body-consciousness, deformation, transformation, and formlessness. Body-consciousness that is achieved through tailoring, bias cutting, and stretchy fabric displays corporeality focusing on the structure and function of the body as an internalized corset. Deformations in dress are categorized into two different subcategories. One is the expansion or reduction of bodily features based on the vertical or horizontal grids of the body, which visualizes the anachronistic restraint of the body through an innerwear as outerwear strategy. The other is exaggerations of the bodily features irrelevant to the grid, which break from the limitations and constraints of the body as well as traditional notions of the body. Transformations of the body refer to as follows. First, the deconstruction and restructuring of the body that deconstruct the stereotypes in garment construction. Second, the abstraction of the body that emphasizes the geometrical and architectural shapes. Third, transformable designs which pursue the expansion and multiplicity of function. Formlessness in dress denies the perception of three-dimensionality of the body through the planarization of the body.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.31-38
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• 2004

In the present paper, a variety of fiber reinforcements, for instance, stabilized OXI-PAN fibers, quasi-carbon fibers, commercial carbon fibers, and their woven fabric forms, have been utilized to fabricate pseudo-unidirectional (pseudo-UD) and 2-directional (2D) phenolic matrix composites using a compression molding method. Prior to fabricating quasi-carbon fiber/phenolic (QC/P) composites, stabilized OXI-PAN fibers and fabrics were heat-treated under low temperature carbonization processes to prepare quasi-carbon fibers and fabrics. The thermal conductivity and thermal expansion/contraction behavior of QC/P composites have been investigated and compared with those of carbon fiber/phenolic (C/P) and stabilized fiber/phenolic composites. Also, the chemical compositions of the fibers used have been characterized. The results suggest that use of proper quasi-carbonization process may control effectively not only the chemical compositions of resulting quasi-carbon fibers but also the thermal conductivity and thermal expansion behavior of quasi-carbon fibers/phenolic composites in the intermediate range between stabilized PAN fiber- and carbon fiber-reinforced phenolic composites.

• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2010

The Aesthetics of Kwanbok and Hyungbae and their Modern Applications Starting from practical purpose, kwanbok worn by government officers were developed in original and unique fashion over long time. In particular, as hyungbae (embroidered patches for kwanbok) that had been used for kwanbok has remained in existence even today, providing inspiration for a variety of design, it is bringing attention to the aesthetic value and importance of kwanbok. Under the circumstances, this study has elicited aesthetics from kwanbok and hyungbae as follows: First, they imply the wish of long life and happiness as a symbol of favorable omen and distinguish one's status according to the shape, color, and pattern. Second, kwanbok and hyungbae reveal our ancestors' naturalistic perspective in art. Third, pleats, slits and shapes in robes reveal practical aesthetics in composition. Fourth, slits in kwanbok create the aesthetics of contrast and harmony of lining and outer cloth. Modern applications of kwanbok is of value as they represent traditions and maintain the original forms, showing the image of Korea in the 21st century. Such efforts mean that they do not only make more beautiful clothes, but also create overall philosophies in life, including personal values.

• 국제초고층학회논문집
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.283-300
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• 2020

The Lakhta Center is a Multifunction Complex Development (MFCD) consisting of 1) an 86 story office tower rising 462 m above the ground to provide high-end offices for Gazprom Neft and Gazprom Group affiliates 2) a Multi-Function Building (MFB) that includes, a scientific/educational center, a sport center, a children's technopark, a planetarium, a multi-transformable hall, an exhibition center, shops, restaurants, and other public facilities 3) a Stylobate 4) "The Arch, which forms the main entrance to the tower, restaurants, and cafes 5) underground parking and 6) a wide range of large public plazas. While each of the MFCD buildings is technically challenging in its own right, the focus of the paper is to present the development and integration of the structural and foundation systems of the bowed, tapered, and twisted shape of the tower into the fabric of the tallest Tower in Europe.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권10호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2008

This study re-examines new aesthetic values pursued by Givenchy, analyzing by the Haute Couture line's chief designers. The following conclusions have been reached: Hubert de Givenchy pursued modernity, infused with simplicity and structured stability. In particular, Audrey Hepburn, who was a loyal client and used his line in several movies, provided him the platform for international exposure which he used to further develop what became known as the "Hepburn" style. The subsequent brief tenure of John Galliano did yield the fantastic and magnificent "Galliano-style", but with irregularity. Based on romanticism, it redefined fashion using a wide range of colors, subjects and decoration. His successor, Alexander McQueen, applied opposite elements using a hybrid technique of pastiche, parody and collage. With innovative inspiration he compromised the concepts of gender, time, space and cultures and recreated futuristic forms of nature, animals, insects and mythical images. Julien Macdonald, who was appointed in 2001 as the Artistic Director for the women's collections, minimized his individual style and preferred feminine, graceful and sexy silhouettes. He breathed fresh life in to Givenchy Haute Couture, reinterpreting the Hepburn style in a modernistic mode. Being passed on the responsibility for both collections (i.e., haute couture and ready-to-wear) in 2005, Riccardo Tisci redefined elegance, combining his unique and tailored gothic style with Givenchy's grace. He is developing the future of Givenchy, experimenting with volume, silhouettes, new kinds of fabric and techniques.

• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.41-57
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• 2010

Yunnan, where twenty-six minor ethnics live, is located in Southwest part of China. They have preserved and developed their folk costume, artcraft, music and dance in their peculiar way with natural and cultural surroundings. So, Yunnan is known as a living folk museum. It's worth examining how climate and circumstances change has affected certain differences of dress shape in same ethnic. Research into costumes of minor ethnics can contribute to the study of origin of the trousers, as this group of people have well succeeded the basic form of trousers through their cultural history and everyday life. This study, at first, investigates geographical surroundings of each minor ethnic group, and figures out the style of all trousers by measuring the each size, then compares design color pattern and fabric. The origin of trousers examined by formative characteristics has been classified and comparatively studied. The study materials are twenty-three trousers selected from in Yunnan Folk Museum as well as other relevant literature records. This study suggests that one can examine the type of human culture through the forms of costume which reflects folk custom geography economy etc. This, in turn, can be used as a basic information for other studies, and in particular, for the study of origin and structure of the trousers.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제35권
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• pp.186-219
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• 2002

It is fortunate to glance at the old fabric style through the fabrics found in the Buddhist statues. There fore these fabrics deserve more attention and significance among the various remains found in the Buddhist Statues and should be taken carc of as the cultural inheritance. Concepts in the traditional fabrics could be viewed in three different aspects, In the first, the five primary elemental conception(五方思想) deeply rooted as the part of life style in old time appeared in five dircctional colors of the costumes whicb in turn connected to the traditional thought of order and harmony with nature. The second is the formal aspect. As can be seen in the fabrics found in the Buddhist statue, religious symbol was shaped into spiritual representation. The third is the aspect of the textile motifs, where wealth and preference for son were symbolized and even a utopia they dreamed for was appeared in the motif. Considering these conceptual aspects, the traditional textiles could be understood in line with the other cultural activity and should be taken more attention since the idea embeddcd in the textiles or colthes reveal the essential thoughts in old time.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권4호
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• pp.532-548
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• 2019

This study examines Geumgwan Gaya's headgear, belt, and footwear. The relics excavated from tombs were examined first, then earthenware and clay figurines, followed by the visual data of related neighboring countries. The results are as follows. The headgear of Geumgwan Gaya, identified in the relics, is daegwan (帶輪式立飾冠) and lip (笠). Daegwan is a diadem with branch-shaped ornaments. It has an organic cap with fabric and leather as well as ties the strings to both ends of the diadem. Lip can be seen in the mounted figure of the earthenware. In neighboring countries, the top of lip is round or straight, but Geumgwan Gaya's lip is pointed and curved slightly backward. In addition, from neighboring countries' data, it is considered that the conical hat and gun (巾) are worn in Geumgwan Gaya. The belt is made of cloth or leather. Geumgwan Gaya also uses a belt with an animal-shaped hook and Jin style belt. Jin style belt shows the association with three-Yan culture of the Seonbi people in patterns and forms. Footwear of Geumgwan Gaya is li (履) and boots. Li included leather shoes, lacquer shoes, straw shoes and wooden shoes. In addition, there are leather boots decorated with round ornaments.