• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.51-62
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• 2007

This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

• 복식
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• 제60권1호
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• pp.101-116
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• 2010

In this study, the subjects are the expression methods and compositions of peony patterns in Chinese textiles. This study represents the peony patterns which are from Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the research subjects are the peony patterns in fabric, except the peony patterns which are expressed by gold foil, embroidery and kesi. The objects of this study are 72 pieces of peony patterns. We sketched the configuration details of peony patterns through the Illustrator program. Analyze and classify the configuration accurately. Based on the 72 pieces of peony patterns, expression methods and compositions of the peony pattern are as following, firstly, we classified peony patterns into three categories, based on expression methods, as realistic shape, pattern shape and shape. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of realistic shape 42 pieces(58.3%), pattern shape 25 pieces(34.7%), and shape 5 pieces(7.0%). Secondly, in the realistic shape peony, the most of pattern has petal accumulate as grape- shaped. This type is found in almost every Dynasty and was used regularly in the eras of Song and Ming Dynasty. In the era of Ming Dynasty, by using petals like the curly mushroom, Yeongji(靈芝), the pattern of symbolizing longevity was habitually used. The U-shaped flower pattern (type E) and the pattern of emphasizing the veins of petals are found only in the remains of the era of Qing Dynasty. Thirdly, in the pattern shaped peony, the most of pattern has some petals which are separated(type C). Fourthly, we classified peony patterns into four categories, based on compositions, as individual branch form, floral branch form, cluster branch form and floral nest form. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of individual branch form 33 pieces(45.8%), floral branch form 18 pieces(25.0%), cluster branch form 13 pieces(18.1%), floral nest form 8 pieces(11.1%).

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.80-96
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• 1999

This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.123-132
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• 2009

Our government has declared the "Synthetic Project for Promoting Han-style" to industrialize and globalize the original form of Korea traditional culture. Han-bok, our traditional folk costume is one of the main subject of this project. However it is the global trend not to wear their traditional folk costume. And so, the number of people wearing Han-bok, our traditional folk costume is also getting gradually decreased in Korea. For Han-style Promoting Project in the future, it is one of the most efficient way for the middle and high school students to motivate and increase the interest about Han-style and Han-bok as the middle and high school uniforms. Adolescent middle and high school students think very important their appearance. Especially, Korean middle and high school students spend a lot of time in school, and so school uniforms are very influential in their mental and physical aspects. Fabrics for this study, they were woven twill with 3 kinds of fabric patterns from the motif of Baekje relics. The colors of fabrics is the blue and brown used in general school uniform, the yellow and red used in Han-bok. Considering the school uniforms, fabric patterns adapted the similar color matching method for not to be found cleary and designed the fabric pattern's one-repeat size is $4{\times}4cm$.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.13-22
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• 2005

In order to convey exactly what a work is intended to project, it is necessary to select appropriate materials, those whose features are suitable for the work to be accomplished. Among the recent trends in dyeing involve the use of the designers' own techniques and a variety of materials, as well as the designers' efforts at promoting the value of plastic art. According I choose splendid butterfly patterns that diversity in shape and color, among nature patterns offer unlimited imaginative power. I designed the fabric pattern, using tie dyeing, cone dyeing, transfer dyeing and rub dyeing that can best express my intentions. Therefore a total of four works were designed with aesthetically appealing revised shapes of a butterfly, using materials developed using the same method, to suggest the possibility of creating a new design while maintaining the original beauty of plastic art.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.147-153
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• 2021

Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

• 대한안전경영과학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.139-148
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• 2015

For design research of teenagers' posture correcting shirt, postures of teenagers were analyzed and became the base of inventing suitable patterns. The subjects of this study were 198 of both female and male middle school students from the city of Seoul. Students' postures in classroom and length change of body surface were observed and analyzed; based on this, total of 5 postures was selected, and length changes of body surface were applied. The patterns in this study were designed with stretch material to help antagonism by muscle movements. Each fabric that was used in this study had 110% of stretch, 120~140% of stretch, and 150~170% of stretch. Both of one-way-fabric and duplex-fabric were used in this study, depending on application site.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.488-495
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to experiment and develop seamless-effect knitwear design using tubular-jacquard structure in order to find a new method of manufacturing knitwear and to suggest a new design. The study is based on changing the point of view about using the practical technique like the tubular jacquard which has been used mainly for expressing patterns. The result of experimenting this, a piece of fabric is able to being worn as a piece of garment. As for using circular structure of tubular jacquard, a body can be fitted into the big space between front and back part of fabric and seams can be made of small patterns of jacquard fabric. The silhouette, the drape and the result of the garment of this experiment are different from the ordinary outfit. Therefore, the study to find a new way of design and manufacturing should go on to suggest a different form and method.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.297-307
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of physical type and age on preference for color and fabric motifs in women's clothing design. Color preference measures consisted of fabric samples in solid colors and drawings of clothing styles painted in colors. Preference for fabric motifs was assessed by printed fabrics in various patterns and sizes. All of the preference measures were devised specifically for this study. Furthermore, items on height and weight for physical type as well as age of the subjects were included in the questionnaire. Data were obtained by means of structured interviews and self-administered questionnaires from 588 women ($20\~60$ years of age) in seoul. Analysis was by chi-square ($X^{2}$), frequency, percentage, and mean. On color preference, a small but significant body type, height, and age effect was found on some types of clothing. Preference for fabric motifs was affected by body type; height of subjects was related to preference for size of motifs, and age was related to choice, size, and width of striped motifs. It was concluded that body type, height, and age are 1e3st effective in predicting color preference. Fabric motif preference was influenced more by age than by body type or height. Generally, there was some similarities in preference for lines and fabric patterns among slim body types, tall figures, and younger age groups as well as heavy body types, short figures, and older age groups.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.143-154
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• 2017

This study was conducted to develop fabrics using non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes made from curcuma and coffee extract. The natural dyes were applied to non-printed cotton fabrics using the dip dyeing method, and the pattern was hand-printed onto the dyed fabrics to make dyed printed-fabrics. The four types of developed fabric samples were compared to analyze the effects of the dyeing materials and printing on the hygienic properties of curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics. The findings were as follows. First, air permeability of both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics was greatly affected by the presence of patterns, although the type of dye did not seem to have an effect. Printing greatly reduced air permeability of the fabric, and coffee-dyed fabric showed greater reduction of dyeing method than curcuma-dyed fabric. Moisture regain also tended to decrease with printing, but the change was much smaller compared to air permeability. Second, increased UV blockage was observed in curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics with patterns compared to non-printed fabrics, showing that printing enhanced UV blocking. Third, deodorization rate tended to increase sharply for both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics until 30 minutes and gradually increased thereafter to yield 30% for curcuma and 50% for coffee at 120 minutes, demonstrating higher deodorization of coffee dye. Coffee-dyed fabric showed an antibacterial rate about twice as high as that of curcuma-dyed fabric, and the observed data suggest that curcuma-dyed fabric had an insignificant level of antibiosis. Fourth, printing significantly enhanced wash, sunlight, and compound colorfastness of the two types of dyed fabrics. The effect of printing was most dramatic on sunlight and compound colorfastness, which are aspects in which natural dyed fabrics perform poorly in general. Eventually, the development and application of biologically- and environmentally-friendly fabrics with natural dyes correspond with increased interest towards the wellness and healthy attitudes of modern society.