• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권7호
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• pp.173-192
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• 2002

This study is intended to observe the meaning, aesthetic formative characteristics of the human body which is introduced and applied to the fashion design. The analysis of the modern fashion design describing the human body refers to the extracted fashion design which expresses the human body appearing in domestic & foreign fashion magazines as well as publications associated with it and published since 1990. The analysis of the way of expression, the image and the design elements in these fashion design works, has had to formative characteristics in each of the three parts. The pursuit of formative characteristics through simplifying the expression of the human body, uprising of anatomical expression, and metaphorical expression with the help of personification and objectification can be thought of as characteristics of expressing pattern. And the op-art, optical illusion by virtue of pointillism, the use of non-woven molding, and action painting technique can be described as expression tools to recognize the human body. Images are presented in the characteristics of being grotesque, humorous, erotic, futuristic and mysterious. The characteristics of designs are expressed in creative detail, trimming, pattern and accessory using the form of human body itself as an item of clothing tends to show the unity of human body and clothing. The human body in the modern era reflects the post human image as well as its meaning as a medium and tool. It is also perceived as a specific object to be self-conscious of in this reality with the loss of humanity, alienation and the confusion of identity. The analysis of the image and way of expression of human body in the fashion design, and the meaning of human body will play an important role of identifying tole viewpoint about human body as well as prospecting what the human being will be in the future.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.723-739
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• 2011

This research seeks to analyze western men's costume in the Baroque era in relation to men's physical beauty from its most detailed and interesting perspective to fomulate a plausible reasoning related to the aesthetic sense of body as expressed in men's costume. This research used national and international books, theses and internet data upon which to base a literature review for a correct understanding of Baroque style and at the same time empirical research to analyze the body image expressed in men's costume. The Baroque style expressed in the 17th century costume offered a dynamic feeling through wavy curves, and its brilliant and colorful decorations created a passionate and charming mood resembling a flame. Accordingly, this research studied the body image as it appeared in the form of 17th century western men's costume by dividing it into the contact beauty of the human body and the manner of hiding the architectural beauty of the human body. First, the exposed silhouette by clothing coming into contact with the human body could be found mainly in upper-class men's costume in the first half of the 17th century. The shorter and tighter doublets and knee breeches could be analyzed in terms of erotic imagery that emphasized masculinity, aristocratic imagery that stressed a distinctive status, and geometric imagery that expressed a triangular pattern. Second, the constructive expression by hiding the human body could be found in upper-class men's costume starting in the mid-17 century. The wearing of the justaucorps could be studied in terms of how it came into contact with the beauty of the human body but also how this clothing style the hid the architectural beauty of human body.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.642-652
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to understand the concept of a sexual image and verify the method of its design expression through case studies of the sexual image evening dress shown in an Haute Couture Collection over the last 10 years (2005~2014). The results of analysis are as follows: First, "expression by the seeing through of the natural body" expressed a natural sexual image that combined fashion of the previous times with the beauty of the natural body by using a see-through material and classic or ethnic image. Second, "expression of a sexual-image look that emphasizes romantic detail" illustrated a romantic sexual image that emphasizes feminine sensitivity by mixing various ornamental elements such as see-through material and symbolism of underwear image. Third, "creation of a nude look using skin color" expressed sexual image of an evening dress by inducing erotic sexual association through a combination of opaque material of skin color and design shape that is intended for body exposure. Fourth, "combination of sexual symbol and heterogeneous elements" expressed a decadent, avant-garde and futuristic sexual images by using women's underwear and a sexual symbol as design motif and mixed with mismatching elements. Fifth, "use of a fantastic black image" expressed an exclusive and refined sexual image and a decadent and primitive sexual image by using a fantastic image of black color. The results of this study are expected to be used for the design process of the evening-dress industry that aims for quality improvement.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.769-782
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• 2014

This study considers the correlation between model pose and clothes in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos as well as expression characteristics. The conclusions of the study are as follows. The type of model pose in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos can be categorized into five types: maximized type of upper and lower body part, minimized type of upper and lower body part, maximized type of upper body and minimized type of lower body part, minimized type of upper body and maximized type of lower body part, basic type of upper and lower body part. In case of having examined the correlation between body movement and costume, the clothes in the model pose included in the maximization of the body were formed mainstream by silhouette, which was formed by decorative elements or full drapery. In the model poses included in the reduction of the body, the costume tended to expose many parts of the body to provide a simple or structural silhouette form. The costume was expressed in colorful form and poses assumed without body movements. The expression characteristics of the model poses in Patrick Demarchelier's fashion photos were sensuality, dynamicity, and simplicity. First, sensuality was expressed as feminine sensuality accompanying an erotic mood by naturally emphasizing a woman's breast or leg by reducing the body. Second, dynamicity provided a vividness to the image as if directly living and moving by highlighting the rhythmic aspect of the body. Simplicity aroused the effect of paying attention to clothes or other incidental elements rather than the image expressed by the body of a model by excluding body movement.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.763-776
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the glamour image in contemporary women's fashion since 1990. The method of study is to analyze the documentary and fashion magazines about the glamour images. Most of all, glamour has been composed by connection of hollywood film industry and fashion. Glamourous body image showed sensual, threatening and vague body. Formative characteristics in fashion showed a tight silhouette, neglige, lace look, dress showing neck and shoulder, fur coat, stiletto, diamond, gold, big and thick jewelry, satin, velvet, lace, mink and fox fur, etc. Internal meaning was a fantasy, ideal, wealth, fame, hyper-feminity, vagueness, vulgarity, sexuality, mystery, professional, fatalness, aggressiveness and evil. Since 1990, the glamour images in fashion were as follows; First, the glamour with hyper-feminity showed a classical femme-fatal image as fearful existence with a power more than allure. Second, the glamour with vulgarity showed an exaggerated, cheap and popular kitsch image, which have intense colors, lavish surfaces and excessive sexual signs. Third, the glamour with classical sensuality showed a hi-glamour image of hollywood actresses being active from 1930 to 1950, which was expressed glittery dress, stole, diamond, fur wrap, hill, luxury dress. Fourth, the glamour with sexual perversion showed an erotic, vague and sexual drag image, and fetish costume. Fetishistic elements were rubber, PVC, stiletto, thick and high boots and corset and particularly, they were a main method of expression of glamour image. Fifth, the glamour with future image showed a mechanical and mysterious image and it was a conscious style by metallic, plastic and sleeky fabric. In conclusion, glamour fashion image is an ideal beauty type of women and will exist as a meaningful aesthetic sign in women's fashion.

• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.157-173
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• 2001

In fashion, there are various cultural aspects that exist in complexity, where according to the era, even fashion items newly develop and prevail into various designs in the organic function with reality of related cultural phenomenon and aesthetic aim. Among the fashion items, the shoe is historically considered as the shield from lust and also the provision of praise against the most emotional incitement. Mankind has started wearing shoes out of the functional purpose of protection since the ancient Egyptian times. Thereafter humankind has been creating shoes artistically in respect to shape, color, and quality of material, etc, as an expression of aesthetical awareness and introspective desire for beauty. As modern fashion increasingly regards the total fashion image much more important than each items consisting the whole outfit, the role of shoe became essential more than ever. Contrary to its relative importance, little academic attention was given to this area yet, while prestigious museums and galleries in Europe and the USA have held exhibitions of shoes in view of both historical and artistic aspects. This study aims to make a historical inquiry of western shoes. through which their aesthetic values can be drawn. Literature on this subject including aesthetics, history of costume and arts were referred. Fashion magazines and catalogues were investigated for additional information. The process and results of this study are meant to be a suggestion not only to further studies but also to artistic and creative shoe design. Originated for the functional purpose, shoes have evolved in various shapes with different meanings attached to it. When the technological development made the satisfaction for functional needs possible, the intrinsic attribute, the aesthetic value was pursued. The historical contemplations of shoes from Egyptian times to the 1990's led to the results that the intrinsic aesthetic value of shoes can be summarized as follows: 1) protection and extension of body, 2) need for decoration, 3) erotic expression, 4) symbol of dignity and class, 5) fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.365-372
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• 2017

This study systematically identified the influence of the school look fashion image on public culture, which is used for increasingly sexualized marketing appeal by domestic Girl Groups. We examined and analyzed the school look fashion image of Girl Groups, focusing on the Lolita complex which is particularly influential in the sexual appeal of domestic popular fashion. The method of this study is based on a literature review from the years 2007 to 2016, when the female girl groups began to receive attention. The music videos of the female girl groups in the top 100 charts of 'Melon' from 2006 to 2-16, which provides the largest mobile music service in Korea, were watched and analyzed as primary data. As a result, it was found that the 'school fashion look image' of adolescence which was used as costumes for Girl Groups, plays a role in commercializing the image of a 'girl', and the types and characteristics of school look fashion image are drawn in two ways. First, it is the image of a seductive Lolita complex. This is the case where young girls wear school look fashion image to emphasize their sexual maturity. Second, it is the case that is using the school look fashion image in order to perform with the 'young girl' concept, as an image of the enchanting Lolita complex; in addition, the erotic body image is more explicitly exposed through choreography and nakedness.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.159-171
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to compare the characteristic of Chanel style between modern and postmodern period. The documentary research method was used for this study. The modem period was limited from around 1920 through 1939 and the postmodern period from 1990 through present for this research. The results were summarized as follows: The characteristics of clothing style in modem period were 1) the preference of slim & straight body figure as ideal one and slim & straight clothing silhouette, 2) the high fashion image for the elite by simple & basic design, 3) the emphasis on the harmony by the unity, 4) the tendency of eliminating ornaments on clothing, 5) the discontinuation of traditional way of dress code & style, and 6) the modern style. The characteristics of clothing style in postmodern period were 1) the emphasis on erotic aspects of female body and sexy design, 2) the popularization of high fashion and certain social group's fashion, 3) the tendency of harmony by mix-match, 4) the preference of ornaments in clothing, 5) the preference of retro-fashion, and 6) the continuation of modem style.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.13-29
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyze eroticism shown in the fashion of Lady Gaga's music video. This study methods taken theoretical consideration and then was classified eroticism based on previous studies and was analyzed costumes from Lady Gaga's music video. The results of this study were as follows: Avant-garde style exaggerates shoulders, hips, a hat or uses metal and glossy material, tape, leather and it was expressed into emphasizing or baldly exposing breast. Primitive style was expressed in ethnic style and animal patterns, lingerie look with drastic, bald exposing fashion. Romantic style was expressed using rococo style costume, frill, pleats, decoration and was produces eroticism with see-through look or costume fitting to the body. Sportive style expresses a healthier and erotic image using tight costume in yellow, blue and black while exposing belly and legs. Janus-faced style was expressed by dressing up like a man or using the method of attachment and exposure in clergy's costume. Humorous style was expressed by emphasizing parts of body or costume itself. As examined in the above, Lady Gaga was expressed various eroticism images in her music video and is builds her own sexually appealing.