• Title/Summary/Keyword: Drafting Method

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A study on the design method of tight fit Thorso patterns for adult males using fashion CAD system - Focusing on the sway back somatotype and the bend forward somatotype - (패션 CAD 시스템을 활용한 성인남성의 타이트 핏 토르소원형 설계방법 연구 - 휜체형과 숙인체형을 중심으로 -)

  • Hong, Eun-Hee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.149-166
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    • 2021
  • This study tried to suggest a drafting method to draft tight fit torso patterns suitable for adult males with a sway back somatotype and a bend forward somatotype by setting and distributing the ease through the completion of the somatic surface pattern using the 3D body surface segment method. It was intended to be presented as a drafting method. As for the research method, the suitability of the somatic surface patterns and the tight fit torso patterns were confirmed by the evaluation of virtual wear, and the patterns were modified and supplemented. The research results are as follows. In the first evaluation of the tight fit torso patterns, the average, for 55 evaluation items, was 3.92 points for the sway back somatotype and 3.89 points for the bend forward somatotype. In the second evaluation, the bend forward somatotype was 4.51 points and the sway back somatotype was 4.62 points. The chest circumference ease amount for the bend forward somatotype and the sway back somatotype are 6.5% (6.8 cm) and 7% (6.8 cm) of the chest circumference, respectively, and the distribution of the front and back ease is the same at 4:6 (2.72 cm:4.08 cm). The waist circumference ease amount is 6.5% (5.8cm) and 6.5% (5.6 cm) of the waist circumference dimensions, and the distribution of the front and backease are 5:5 (1.45 cm: 1.45 cm) and 4:6 (2.24 cm: 3.36 cm), respectively. The completed tight fit torso patterns were converted into institutional formulas and presented as a drafting method.

Development of tight-fit torso patterns for adult males somatotype 20s~40s using 3D somatic surface shape (3D체표면 입체형상을 활용한 20~40대 성인남성의 체형유형별 타이트 핏 토르소원형 설계)

  • Hong, Eun-Hee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.29 no.6
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    • pp.904-921
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    • 2021
  • The aim of this study was to develop a body type suitable for adult men aged from their 20s to their 40s and to present a method of drafting related patterns. To this end, the somatic surface pattern data from previous studies were used. The research method involved drafting torso patterns for each type by setting and distributing the ease to the somatic surface pattern. Appearance evaluation was performed with virtual clothing. Then, the torso pattern for each body type was completed and presented as a draft method. SPSS was used for data analysis in this study. The research results are as follows. Types 1, 2, and 3 were set to 7%, 6%, 5%; 7%, 6%, 4%; and 6.5%, 7%, and 6% for chest, waist, and hip circumference measurements, respectively. The ratio of front to back was 50%:50%, 50%:50%, and 50%:50% of the spare for each body part for Type 1; 70%:30%, 50%:50%, and 60%:40% for Type 2, and 60%:40%, 70%:30%, and 60%:40% for Type 3. A tight-fit torso pattern for each body type suitable for adult males in their 20s to 40s was drafted, which was modified and supplemented through the evaluation of the first and second virtual wear. Considering the practicality of this approach, for generalization of the patterns, the items of the pattern were converted into a drafting method and presented as a draft method.

Development of Pattern Drafting Method for Hip-hugger Tight Skirt and Round Belt (힙 허거(hip-hugger)형 타이트 스커트 및 라운드 벨트 패턴 제도법 개발)

  • Park, Soon-Jee;Kim, Hye-Jin
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.13 no.5
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    • pp.661-671
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    • 2011
  • This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

A Study on Skirt Pattern for Women's Clothing (스커어트제작을 위한 원형연구 -18세~24세 여성을 중심으로-)

  • Rim Won Ja;Choi Hyon Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.21-33
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    • 1981
  • The purpose of this study was to develop a skirt pattern drafting method for korean women between the ages of $18\~24$ on the basis of their physical charcteristics which differs from those of other races in its size and figure. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. Ten types of convantional skirt patterns were collected and compared to determine the essential measuring items for skirt construction, and to discover what problems are involved. 2. Fourteen items of KIST measurement data were analysed for correlation coefficients, to establish representative items and independent ones. 3. Front waist length and back waist length were additionally measured for supplementary data. 4. A new skirt drafting method was developed based on the results of the pattern comparison and the data analysis. 5. A sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new method comparing it with the most widely accepted conventional pattern. An original rating scale was developed for the evaluation and an expert panel consisting of five members judged each shell from 12 subjects by random selection. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 17 items on the rating scale, 14 items showed significant differences (${\alpha}\leqq$0.01 or ${\alpha}\leqq$0.05) between the two, with the new pattern having better fit. The new pattern drafting method proved to be superior to the conventional one especially in the fitness at the back hip, dart length, side seam balance, and the ease for daily activities.

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The Teaching Method of "Architectural Basic Design" with Digital tool (디지털도구를 이용한 건축기초설계 교육사례연구)

  • Koh, In-Lyong;Dong, Jae-Uk
    • Journal of The Korean Digital Architecture Interior Association
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.7-14
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    • 2004
  • This paper is base on the Thought that digital Architecture and Digital design tools cannot be seperted as like Architevtural Design and Architectural Drafting tools. So the purpose of this paper is to show that the interactive 'Architectural Basic design' practice with Digital tools and there tranning method. This example of the pratical assignments in class("Architectural digital drafting" and "Architectural Basic Design") are focus on tranning spatial perception in real space and digital -cyber space. And these practical samples are using the primary step in The Digital Architectre.

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A Study of the Basic Slacks Pattern for the Fatty Body -The subject of middle-aged women- (비만체형을 위한 기본 Slacks 원형연구 -중년기 부인을 중심으로-)

  • 이영희
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.25 no.3
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    • pp.27-36
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    • 1987
  • The purpose of this study was to develop a slacks pattern drafting method for the fatty women of 40∼55 aged Korean women who are more than 1.5 Rohrer's index on the basis of their physical characteristics. The study was composed as follows; 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis: One hundred and thirty women between the ages of 40∼55 over 1.5 Rohrer's index were measured on 21 items. Mean, standard deviation, variance, maximum, minimum, range were computed. 2. 4 types of conventional slacks pattern were collected. The most accepted conventional slacks pattern was decided through wearing test. The new pattern was based onthe most accepted conventional pattern, and developed through wearing tests. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method: The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new pattern by comparing is with the most accepted conventional pattern. According to the statistical analysis of the result of the 12 items, all the items showed significant differences (α 0.01) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores.

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A Study on the Application of the Apparel CAD System(I) (어패럴 CAD System의 활용화 방안 연구(I) - Hip Block의 개발 -)

  • Nam, Yun-Ja;Lee, Hyoung-Sook;Cho, Young-A
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.565-576
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    • 1993
  • The Purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of the hip block and sleeve for female college students of 18 to 26 year-old. The study procedures and results were as follows ; 1. 313 female college students were measured, 17items were analyzed statisitcally. 2. New hip block and sleeve sloper were developed based on the result of the data analysis and fitting tests. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new hip block and sleeve sloper for female college student by comparing it with Japanese Bunka method sloper. According to statistical analysis of the result of 40items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference($$a{\leq_-}0.01$$) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 40items, and to be comfortable.

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A study on basic slacks pattern for pregnant woman (임신부의 체형변화에 따른 기본슬랙스원형 연구)

  • 홍정민;김현순
    • Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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    • v.12 no.1
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    • pp.39-55
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    • 1993
  • The purpose of this study was to develop a basic slacks pattern drafting me- thod for pregnant women on the basic of their physicial characteristics. The results of the study were as follows: 1. The items which showed a remakable and significant increase were anterior waist height, waist depth, omphalion depth, abdominal depth, waist girth, omphalion girth, abdominal girth and body weight. The anterior part of waist and abdominal sections projected forward gradually, so remarkably as to become to look like a circle, at ten month. 2. Sensory evaluation for Appearance: According to the statistical analysis of the result of 25 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference$({\alpha}{\leq} 0.001)$ between the new and the MUNHWA method slacks pattern, with the new pattern having having higher scores. 3. Sensory evaluation for Comfort : The new drafting method proved to be better fitted and more comfortable.

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A Study on Basic Pattern for Women's Clothing -Patterns of Bodice, Sleeve and Skirt- (표준의복원형설계법에 관한 연구(I) -부인복 길$\cdot$소매$\cdot$스커트 원형설계-)

  • Rim Won-ja;Choi Hae-joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.12 no.1 s.26
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    • pp.93-114
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    • 1988
  • The purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of bodice, sleeve and skirt for Korean women at the age of 18 to 34. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. 305 women aged 18 to 34 were measured on 49 items. 56 items including 49 measured and 7 calculated items were analyzed statistically. 2. New pattern drafting methods were developed based on the results of the data analysis. Basic shells constructed from the patterns were examined through fitting tests for completion. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new pattern for women by comparing it with one of the most used conventional patterns. An original rating scale was developed and used for the evaluation. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 53 items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference ($\alpha{\leqq}0.01$ or $\alpha{\leqq}0.05$) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 53 items, and to be comfortable.

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