• 복식
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• 제66권5호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2016

This study examined dahoe(多繪-braided cord) and mangsu(網綬-ornament of husu for ceremonial dress) used in myeon gwan(冕冠), daedae(大帶), and husu(後綬) among royal formal dresses in the Joseon Dynasty(1392-1910) based on historical materials including literature, relics, and paintings. The results of this study are as follows. In myeon-gwan, dahoe was used for cap strings, goeing(紘) and yeong(纓). Cap strings were applied to the king, the Crown Prince, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince regardless of their status, and they showed differences among the periods. Both goeing and yeong were used during the early period of Joseon, and then only yeong was used in the late period. As goeing was removed and only yeong was used in the late period, patterns combining goeing and yeong, in color and wearing method, appeared. Dahoe used in cap strings is dongdahoe(童多繪-a kind of braided cord). In daedae, 'nyuyak(紐約)' was tied up to its fastening part. The material of nyuyak was changed from dongdahoe in the early Joseon Dynasty to guangdahoe(廣多繪-a kind of braided cord) in the late period, and the method of using it was also changed. Husu was imported from Beijing in China during the early period of the Joseon Dynasty, but in 1747, it was regulated to be woven in Joseon, and at that time, King Yeongjo attempted to restore the institution of weaving husu with "320 su(首)," namely, 6,400 strands as specified for the status of a prince of the Ming Dynasty.

• 천문학회보
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• 제46권2호
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• pp.65.1-65.1
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• 2021

The Donggungilgi (東宮日記) is the daily records of the Siganwon (侍講院), which was a royal office in the Joseon dynasty that took charge of the education for the crown prince who dwelled in the Donggung (East Palace). This literature contains records of meteorological and astronomical observations as well as educational matters. The Sohyeon-Donggungilgi (昭顯東宮日記) includes records from 1625 to 1645, when Prince Sohyeon, the first son of King Injo (仁祖), was the crown prince. We investigate the records of solar halo observations in the Sohyeon-Donggungilgi. For consistency, we restrict our investigation to the period before the second Manchu invasion of Korea (i.e., 1625 to 1635). We extract 2,684 records and classify them into ten events according to the terms in their descriptions. The largest and smallest number of observation records are for the Hun (暈) and Geuk (戟) events (1,794 and 7 records, respectively). To verify what each event represents in modern atmospheric terms, we refer to historical documents of the Seoungwanji (書雲觀志, Treaties on the Bureau of Astronomy) and Cheonmundaeseong (天文大成, Great Achievements in Astronomy). We also calculate the solar altitude based on the observation hour and compare the descriptions to compute simulations provided by Arbeitskreis Meteore e.V.. We find that the descriptions of the Hun, Junghun (重暈), Yi (珥), and Baekhonggwanil (白虹貫日) events indicate a 22˚ halo, 22˚ and 46˚ halos, a parhelion, and a parhelic circle, respectively, Alternatively, we estimate that the Gwan (冠), Dae (戴), Bae (背), Li (履), and Gyohun (交暈) events describe arcs tangent to a 22˚ or 46˚ halo such as a upper or lower tangent arc, a circumzenithal arc, or a parry arc. We suggest that further studies are required for the Geuk event because the descriptions of this event differ from both documents referred to this study. In the sense that the number of observation records of the Geuk event is the smallest, however, this event may describe a rare phenomenon. We believe that this work will contribute to the study of historical records of solar or lunar halos.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.287-299
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• 1990

To analyse the royal marriage of Yi-Dynasty, the authors studied 'Kuk Hon Geong Rea', which is a historical record, published in 1749(King Yong-Jo), on the usage of marriage articles in the royal family. The essential steps or articles described in the record were as follows, Royal marriage of King : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's, proclamation of Queen and wedding ceremony(納采) (納徵) (冊妃) (親迎 尊雁 同牢). Royal marriage of Crown Prince : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's. proclamation of Crown Princess, wedding ceremony, and bride's gifts to her parents-in-law(納采) (納徵) (冊嬪) (親迎 尊雁 同牢) (朝見體). Royal marriage of Crown Princess : Wedding presents, black and red silks from the bridegroom's to bride's, wedding ceremony, bride's gifts to her parents-in-law(納采) (納徵) (尊雁 同牢) (見舅姑禮). Necessary articles for weddings were different according to royal status of the member in the royal family.

• 복식
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• 제54권5호
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• pp.59-70
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• 2004

Tea has influenced the basis of Korean culture in history for a long time. The dissertation aims to establish the history of the costumes for the tea ceremony based upon historical data. During Thee Kingdom Period. there was a ceremony called Tea Offering Ceremony In Silla times, there were Tea Offering Ceremony and Royal Shrine Tea Ceremony: In Corea age, they served Tea Presenting Ceremony: In Chosun age. tea ceremony was a part of Tea Presenting and was held during official greeting feasts for foreign envoys and during feast ceremonies at the court. The costumes for the tea ceremony by period are as fellows : In Corea times, king and all the government officials wore official court attire for Enthronement Ceremony (Ka-Rye). For Official Guest Reception Ceremony (Bin-Rye), king wore official costume, but in case the envoy was not carrying an Official King＇s Letter, king wore Ordinary Costume. In Chosun times, both king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes (with golden dragon patterned segment) for Envoy Reception Tea Ceremony. In time of royal feast ceremony, king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes, while queen wore red purple silk robe (red purple embroidered segment). Chosun＇s royal court occasionally held tea ceremonyat royal feast ceremonies during which king also wore ordinary costume of winged silk crown and royal robe as a costume to attract good fortunes. In case of ceremonies for bad occasions, a tea ceremony was included in Royal Inquisition procedures (joong-hyung-ju-dae-eui) during which king wore simple costume (Pyun-Bok).

• 수완나부미
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.1-23
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• 2013

This study reexamines a covert factor of the colonization of Myanmar kingdom, drawing on the case of Myingyun-MyingonDaing Rebellion broke out in 1866. It criticizes that existing discussions on the downfall of the Konbaung dynasty are preoccupied with post-colonialism. These researches were focus on macro level and pointed out the imperialist stratagem and many scholars concluded for the down fall of Konbaung Dynasty that the wave of Imperialism as Sunami hit from Europe to Asia so that Myanmar could not stand as feudal society and down fall Konbaung Dynasty. All of events and comments were quite true but it is necessary to examine carefully past events. There were many controversial facts about third Anglo-Myanmar war. This paper has pointed out the Kings Mindon's false political strategic due to the lack of awareness on external threat with the giving the best example of Myingun-MyingonDaing rebellion.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.43-70
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• 1995

This paper aims to clarify the historical background and the architectural purpose of the buildings in NakSunJae area to the original state. Through the investigation, the clarified facts are as follows. 1. The relation with the buildings for the Crown Prince in the ChangDok Palace By constructing buildings in the NakSunJae area, the spatial conception of the Royal Palace was changed, that is, buildings for the Crown Prince in the ChangDok Palace disappeared and they became to belong to the ChangGyeong Palace. Moreover, by constructing the NakSunJae and its attached buildings, the area for the Crown Prince shifted to use as a private area for the king. 2. The date and the purpose of the construction The NakSunJae area is consisted of three compounds of building: NakSunJae, SukBokHun and SooKangJae. The NakSunJae was constructed for the king HunChong's private occupancy in 1847 and the SukBokHun for a residence of a royal concubine Kim, in 1847. The SooKangJae was originally built in 1785 in the SooKang Palace where the ex-king took up as his residence after abdicate the throne. Later on, it was repaired as the residence of the Queen SoonWon, king HunChong's grandmother, in commemoration for the 60th anniversary of her birth in 1848. 3. Architectural features of the NakSunJae area at the time of construction First, as the NakSunJae area is surrounded by quite high hills in northeast and by low hills in southwest, it is naturally distinguished from its surroundings and gives a cosy feeling. Second, the NakSunJae area shows very untrammeled style of arrangement in general, because it was constructed as a private occupancy for the king. other buildings are arranged in the latticing orderly, nonetheless, they are free by themselves from a strict form and make themselves an area full of variety. Third, the buildings in the NakSunJae area have a characteristic of naivety of common people's houses, because they were not an official but private place for the king, his concubine and his grandmother. Forth, the ornaments in the NakSunJae area are variously, elegantly and harmoniously patterned with the meaning of good luck. Fifth, back garden in the NakSunJae area was made by taking advantage of sloping hills. The back garden is beautifully configurated by arranging various constituent elements of pavilions, tiered flower beds, chimneys, decorated walls, small doors between walls, stoneworks and trees.

• 한국의사학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.61-78
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• 2001

Time and places of hot spring-bath were diverse such as at succeeding to the throne, after abdication, during Crown Prince and etc. Generally, average staying time was about 20 days. Beside the healing purpose, hot spring-bath was taken to inspect the people's conditions, to reduce compulsory labor or tax, to carry out "Kwagoh", the old state examination or to console the people.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.877-887
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• 2011

The purpose of Sassanian dynasty was to succeed the civilization of Achaemenid dynasty but it shows vestiges of Parthian civilization in many ways. This study is an attempt to take a look at Sassanian civilization through analyzing these rock reliefs since these features are shown on the rock relief of Ardashir I in early Sassanian Iran. The way carried out this study was first, to collect and search documentary data to establish the theoretical background, and collect positive data by exploring this region and then we comparatively analyzed the two data in general and the result is the following: The form of costume is different according to the person's status. In the early period of Ardashir I the costume style of the royals is reflected by clothes such as tunic, trousers in parthian style. However, trousers do not have vertical pleats which are commonly shown in the case of parthian trousers. It assumed that after the early period of Ardashir I, Sassanians formed their own styles. The form of cap is also different according to the person's status. Ardashir I and the Ahura mazda god put on crown and Korymbos which symbolized the sovereign power. Except the king and the god, the prince and the king's vassal put on high caps called Kolah. Diadem which symbolized sovereign power of king was used by the king, the god and the crown prince. There are two kinds of diadem. The first form has vertical pleats and the other does not have pleats. This form became different depending on the social position. The form of hairstyle is generally thick curly hair which goes down until the shoulder. There is no difference in their hairstyle in terms of the social position. The beard style is generally in the form of scoop. There is also no difference in terms of the person's status.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.670-687
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• 2014

This study focused on Jungchimak (coats with side slits) which was typically worn by men in the mid and late Joseon Dynasty. It was done research by examining the case of wearing Jungchimak centering on literature and paintings and analyzing its changes in terms of its form based on the relics that have been found in order to suggest the standard for the evaluation of the period of Jungchimak. Results are as follows. First, men who wore Jungchimak were the king, crown prince and Aristocratic under the official uniform or other robes or as ordinary clothes and shroud. Second, Jungchimak for king was mostly made of Dan (satin damask) and mostly jade green & navy in color, and it commonly used dragon pattern, cloud and treasure pattern, or grape pattern. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for crown prince was Dan & Ju (coarse-finished silk) and puple, green, jade green & navy in color. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for Aristocratic was Ju and indigo or white in color. Third, 251 relics have been announced until now. Most of them were made of silk fabric and had cloud and flower patterns. Fourth, Jungchimak showed changes through time in terms of collar and sleeve shapes, the ratio of armhole to sleeve opening, Geotseop (panel sewn on front opening for overlapping), Dang and Mu (side panel), the ratio of the total length of outer collar to the length of side slits, and the ratio of chest size to the width of lower end.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.52-62
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• 2011

This study is about the history of costumes depicted on the book Goryosa(高麗史) Ye-Ji(禮志). Researches about the costumes of Goryo dynasty are very rare and are mostly based on Goryodogyung(高麗圖經) and Goryosa Yebok-Ji(與服志). However, records about suitable costumes for a special scene of a rite can also be found in Ye-Ji besides Yebok-Ji. Therefore, this study analyzes Ye-Ji and categorizes the results into character and situation. Characters that can be found are king, officials, crown prince, aristocrat, commoner and envoy. Situations that can be found, according to the original text, are Gilrye(吉禮), Hyoongrye(凶禮), Goonrye(軍禮) and Garye(嘉禮). The results of the study are as follows; $\blacktriangleright$ The king had to change clothes in order to suit the situation according to the precise sequence of rituals. Therefore the king had to wear different clothes in the same rite, optionally, depending on the situation. This also applies to the case of officials. $\blacktriangleright$ The crown prince and aristocrats generally wore the same clothes as officials. $\blacktriangleright$ In the important ritual of Garye(嘉禮), many cases can be found where officials wore Jobok(朝服) and hands-on worker wore Gongbok(公服). $\blacktriangleright$ It is remarkable that on the New Year's day, the winter solstice and Sungsoojul(聖壽節; the emperor's birthday) the envoy of Ming Sangbok(常服); whereas the king and the officials of Goryo wore the Myunbok(冕服) or Jobok(朝服).