Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
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A Study on Dahoe(多繪) and Mangsu(網綬) Used in Royal Formal Dresses in the Joseon Dynasty

조선시대 왕실 예복에 사용된 다회(多繪) 및 망수(網綬) 연구

  • Choi, Yeon Woo (Dept. of Korean Traditional Clothes, Dankook University) ;
  • Park, Yoon Mee (Dept. of Korean Traditional Clothes, Dankook University) ;
  • Kim, Myoung Yi (Dept. of Korean Traditional Clothes, Dankook University)
  • 최연우 (단국대학교 전통의상학과) ;
  • 박윤미 (단국대학교 전통의상학과) ;
  • 김명이 (단국대학교 전통의상학과)
  • Received : 2016.06.30
  • Accepted : 2016.08.01
  • Published : 2016.08.31
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Abstract

This study examined dahoe(多繪-braided cord) and mangsu(網綬-ornament of husu for ceremonial dress) used in myeon gwan(冕冠), daedae(大帶), and husu(後綬) among royal formal dresses in the Joseon Dynasty(1392-1910) based on historical materials including literature, relics, and paintings. The results of this study are as follows. In myeon-gwan, dahoe was used for cap strings, goeing(紘) and yeong(纓). Cap strings were applied to the king, the Crown Prince, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince regardless of their status, and they showed differences among the periods. Both goeing and yeong were used during the early period of Joseon, and then only yeong was used in the late period. As goeing was removed and only yeong was used in the late period, patterns combining goeing and yeong, in color and wearing method, appeared. Dahoe used in cap strings is dongdahoe(童多繪-a kind of braided cord). In daedae, 'nyuyak(紐約)' was tied up to its fastening part. The material of nyuyak was changed from dongdahoe in the early Joseon Dynasty to guangdahoe(廣多繪-a kind of braided cord) in the late period, and the method of using it was also changed. Husu was imported from Beijing in China during the early period of the Joseon Dynasty, but in 1747, it was regulated to be woven in Joseon, and at that time, King Yeongjo attempted to restore the institution of weaving husu with "320 su(首)," namely, 6,400 strands as specified for the status of a prince of the Ming Dynasty.

Keywords

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