Brizzolara, Stefano;Bonfiglio, Luca;Medeiros, Joao Seixas De
Ocean Systems Engineering
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v.3
no.3
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pp.219-236
/
2013
The accurate prediction of motion in waves of a marine vehicle is essential to assess the maximum sea state vs. operational requirements. This is particularly true for small crafts, such as Autonomous Surface Vessels (ASV). Two different numerical methods to predict motions of a SWATH-ASV are considered: an inviscid strip theory initially developed at MIT for catamarans and then adapted for SWATHs and new a hybrid strip theory, based on the numerical solution of the radiation forces by an unsteady viscous, non-linear free surface flow solver. Motion predictions obtained by the viscous flow method are critically discussed against those obtained by potential flow strip theory. Effects of viscosity are analyzed by comparison of sectional added mass and damping calculated at different frequencies and for different sections, RAOs and motions response in irregular waves at zero speed. Some relevant conclusions can be drawn from this study: influence of viscosity is definitely non negligible for SWATH vessels like the one presented: amplitude of the pitch and heave motions predicted at the resonance frequency differ of 20% respectively and 50%; in this respect, the hybrid method with fully non-linear, viscous free surface calculation of the radiation forces turns out to be a very valuable tool to improve the accuracy of traditional strip theories, without the burden of long computational times requested by fully viscous time domain three dimensional simulations.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.10
no.3
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pp.111-126
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2008
This article aims to discover the current status and appropriate way to research Gyubang craft, expecting its development and preservation, and elevating it to Korea's unique artistic textile culture. It also searches improved methods for Gyubang craft as the following: First, in order to avoid confusions about Gyubang craft, appropriate concepts and definitions of Gyubang craft must be settled through a discussion among experts. Second, by activating economic activities at lower ratio, among purposes of Gyubang craft, achievements must be elevated. Third, in order to settle down the difficulties of Gyubang craft, a variety of methods such as effective sewing machines and manufacturing techniques as well as providing materials at a reasonable price, considering practical ways through diversifying products, elevating the economy of crafts, exploring sales routes, improving educational contents, and expanding educational places must be facilitated. Fourth, for nurturing talented and excellent human resources in the area of Gyubang craft, the followings should be considered: diversifying contents of education, developing textbooks, improving instructors' quality, providing reasonable cost of education, educating on the utilization and application of Gyubang craft, introducing efficient teaching methods through textbooks and multimedia, awarding 'certificates' to trainees, and permitting certificate holders' to instruct Gyubang craft. Finally, it is convinced that the achievement of production, pride of preserving tradition, pleasure of procedural work, economic activities as experts, and sales of products will be reinforced, and the population for Gyubang craft is also expected to increase. By elevating Gyubang craft into Korea's traditional textile art, Korea's global competitiveness in the area of textile should be strengthened.
In the Korean literature, records of systematic gold thread manufacturing such as gold foil(金 箔匠), gold foil bonded with fabrics(付金匠), gold foil bonded with paper materials(金箋紙匠), refining gold(鍊金匠), cutting gold(裁金匠), and making gold thread(絲金匠) can be easily found. We can infer from these literatures that the Korean people used to make gold threads. However, is not existent the gold thread making technique. Thus, a research was done using 67 pieces of gold thread artifacts used in textiles craft of Korea, China and Japan. The purpose of this research was to identify the characteristics of the Korean gold thread by studying the artifacts' form classification, gold foil, glue and the base. First, gold thread is divided into flat gold thread and wrapped gold thread. Wrapped gold thread was made in more various methods such as with a paper on the flat gold thread, metal thread and wrapped gold thread with gold foil on top. Compared to the flat gold thread, wrapped gold thread uses a thread that has a thinner and wider. Through this analysis, even making of the base of the gold threads was different according to the type. Secondly, we looked into the characteristics of materials according to form structure of the gold thread. After analysis of experiment results, we could know that to attach Korean gold thread, glue and the mixture of materials such as Red soil(朱土) was also added. The kinds of the base of gold threads were identified as paper, leather and intestines. Among those materials, for paper, Korea's Dakji, China's Sangpiji(桑皮紙) and Jukji(竹紙) and Japan's Anpiji(雁皮紙) seemed to have all been used, so because of the difference among countries, we can prove that Korea has also produced gold thread. By looking at the research, the base of gold threads and making features hugely vary according to the area.
In this study, printing was introduced to the common dip-dyeing method of persimmon juice dyeing so as to develop two different colored persimmon juice dyed fabrics with printings of 'jorangmal' patterns (a national monument) instead of producing a plain textile. Following are the results of a comparative study between the persimmon dyed fabric and undyed fabric, both with printings, in terms of its properties, and hand values. Cotton and rayon were chosen as samples and were compared separately. Firstly, the samples showed differences in terms of clarity and visual sensation depending on the presence of persimmon dye, even if the same pattern and color was used. Secondly, the air permeability of two samples improved after persimmon dyeing even though their thickness increased, and their moisture regain increased as well in all humidity conditions. Thirdly, protectiveness against UV increased in dyed samples, and sweat, sunlight, and compound colorfastness improved in printed dye-fabrics compared to plain dyed ones. Therefore, printing proved to be effective in preventing discoloration. Fourthly, tensile linearity and resilience, bending rigidity, compressive linearity and resilience, and shearing stiffness increased more in the dyed samples compared to undyed ones. However, shearing recovery decreased in both dyed fabrics. Fifthly, the result of its hand value showed that Koshi value increased in all samples than undyed ones, whereas Fukurami, Numeri, and Softosa values decreased. Incorporating printing in persimmon dyeing process could expect creative outcomes not only in today's diverse fashion but in areas of arts or crafts as well.
It is not clear to assume the history of dyeing by persimmon juice without an early knowledge of an accurate record. However, the beginning of persimmon dyeing in Korea is estimated to be around the $13^th$-$14^th$ century, even though there are no supporting records. On the other hand, there are definite records of persimmon dyeing in Japan from around the 17th century. Persimmon juice was originally used for fishing tools in both Korea and Japan, but upon entering the Modern Era it eventually transfigured into a dye for fabric. In Korea, persimmon-dyed fabrics were used for traditional clothing until it also became a popular choice for modern clothes in the 1990s. In Japan, persimmon juice was originally used for varnishing surfaces of household items, but it recently became a material for arts, crafts, and even apparels. The main difference between persimmon dyeing of the two countries is the presence and absence of the fermentation process. In Korea, persimmons are picked and water is immediately added to its juice to produce the dye. In contrast, Japan produces a fermented persimmon dye. As a result, in Korea the dye can not be preserved for long periods, whilst in Japan it is matured in the storage for 2-3 years. Today's pursuit of eco-friendliness and wellness has prompted an inclination towards natural material clothes. Therefore, it is necessary for both countries to push scientific research into improving the storage methods and colorfastness of persimmon-dyed products for the increase of use consumption in other areas of persimmon and arrowroot dyed fabrics, and the development of environment friendly materials.
The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.
This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance "Victory Over the Sun" was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. "Victory Over the Sun" did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in "Victory Over the Sun", and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on "Victory Over the Sun" from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on "Victory Over the Sun". and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.
As the quality of life increases and the aesthetic value of the product is emphasized, it tend to consider the sensitivity of consumers in designing goods. The importance of storytelling is becoming more prominent as the purchasing factor of products shifted from the center of the product to emotional of products. In this paper, the purpose of developing emotional marketing craft design using storytelling is to understand the storytelling concept and analyze the case of craft design using storytelling. Craft is an easy-to-value or aesthetic value of the goods in the fields of design, diversity and originality can be pursued and has unlimited potential. Now, in addition to the semantic value of expressive values with a consumer sensibility needs requires the development of this research craft crafts design industry has established itself as a high value-added industry could do more to take advantage of the Foundation.
This study examined the characteristics of furniture design in the early Modernism that occurred in the early 20th Century through the relationship with modern arts. The furniture design of the early Modernism was established in the early 20th Century based on the simplicity and honesty of the Art and Crafts Movement and Anti-Historicism in Art Nouveau. During this period, the necessity of mass production became critical due to the radical industrialization and new social demands. In such periodic stream, the furniture design of the early modernism pursued simplicity and geometric beauty based on functionalism. The efforts to discover the fundamental structure of furniture were intensified. It was not limited to furniture design but was also exercised in the huge periodic transformation that progressed in every field of art including architecture. The Modernism art has also been connected to Cubism and spread into an abstract direction. While questioning the potential essence and progressing the study on genuine characteristics, the Modernism art tried to return things into their substantial looks and reorganize them conceptually, rather than reproducing external objects. The furniture that was secondary to a part of architecture and interior accessory transcended its decorative purpose. It pursued the structure to follow its fundamental purpose as furniture. Such tendency corresponded to the direction that Post-Modernism followed. Likewise, both art and design had the revivable and abstract characteristics based on the identical objective in ideology. For this reason, the formative and geometric characteristics of the early modernism furniture design have a mutual relationship with modern arts. Particularly, such tendency intensified and progressed through the Bauhaus in Germany. Based on such facts, this study proved that the early Modernism furniture design in the 20th Century tended to appear in common arts including the art and design according to the social demand of the huge periodic stream. Furthermore, the ideology that was adopted in art and design, as well as its formative characteristics, was examined through the mutual relationship of modern arts and design.
In the 21st century, boundary between different fields is coming down, convergence and consilience are taking place. It would not be an exaggeration to say key buzzword of the 21st century is 'convergence'. Also in the field of art and design, the border between the two areas is getting more ambiguous. With the reason, both the new awareness and interest on Art Furniture are becoming more heightened. So far as part of the decorative art category Art Furniture was covered. However Art Furniture is now no longer a fixture of that field, but became independent as a new genre of art. As proof of this, at the international representative art fairs including the Design Miami, PAD London, and The Salon of Art and Design which was recently established in New York, etc. Art Furniture is becoming a showcase as the main pieces. Moreover, at the world's major art market Sotheby's, Christie's, and Seoul Auction, Art Furniture's position is more successfully becoming extended. At this point the analysis of the status and the cause on the non-boundary phenomena between art and design is inevitably required to understand the disposition of the public and to develop the domestic furniture industry. Thus, this paper purposes to present the new direction for that the domestic Art Furniture encompasses the two areas with satisfaction to the demands of the public by studying on the non-boundary phenomena between art and design in contemporary Art Furniture.
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