• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.263-276
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• 1994

The achievement of notable social reoforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries needlessly speaking remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns such as :1) high industrialization 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly the industrial world of the but-tons too established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced, The design (incused design) used in the 19-20h centuries are : men landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, tec, 1, The classification o f the buttons by materials Techniques shapes colors marking (Incused design) used in the productionof buttons in the England United States of America Laska Italy france Denmark Japan and India are categolizzed as : natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are : Matal Enamel Iodine Agate, Coral, Green jade(Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and bone etc. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button in-dustries are : Artificial jewell glass Acrylic material Styroform Celluloid and Nylon etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work inlay work precision casting press mosic dye etching, processing, engraving and embossed carving etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons in -dustries are : Round shape however elliptical column angular and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are : The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as : Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design(incused design) on the buttons are embodiment and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination abstractive with has offers much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the in-dustrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense ideology and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional ornamental and symbolical aspects : 1. The functional role : The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for dress how-ever the buttons beyond from this role of function now a days. 2. The ornamental role : The ornamental role of he button beyond from this role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape materials colors 2) technique locations size and design (incused design) 3) The ramaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area such as matchs with the color of garment of contrast with brigtness of colors contrasted as complementary color and so and so. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting press handcraft inlay work etching mosic etc,. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses location can be de-termined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits, However the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence rhythm contrast harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role : Since the button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations political background cultural as-pect etc. on the buttons. The design of buttons in the western circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanis and handcraft. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the but-tons however materials used in the buttons are : Bone of livestocks ivory, turtle shell are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly the level of buttons indus-try of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of western circles. It is highly suggested therefore the but-tons industrial field of Republic of Korea shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.703-714
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to acquire various methods for the fashion image coordination and to examine common features of variation of coordination methods according to the trend. It has attained by investigating Men's fashion image coordination through trend analysis in terms of its coordination features and its variety aspects. For this study, it has classified into twelve typical Men's fashion images in collecting 1,291 pieces of photographs on the subject of jackets and pants from Men's fashion collection$(1995\~2002)$. The study has examined methods and features of fashion image coordination by year according to design elements and the harmony between items. In addition, it has drawn common factors in the image coordination. The summary and conclusion are as follows. A year of 1995, it has presented as the essential code of the variation that morphologic aspects of a design in the fashion image coordination. Various designs have developed through the variation of shapes such as shoulder width, shoulder pad, jacket width and its length and so on. In the initial stage, the width of shoulder and jacket has fitted into large pattern and then adjusted elegantly to make fit the body that indicates a dissolution according to an avant-garde image. At the time that over-measurement of the shape has reduced and high quality and variation of materials has gradually become significant. Those are often used that high-quality glossy materials or other materials which are opposite to the basic code of the original fashion image materials and qualities regardless of images. On the pattern and color, in addition, have represented neat and elegant impression with moderate applications rather than quantitative abundance that have used opposite elements to the basic code f3r the change code like materials. Furthermore, before and after 1999, ' it shows that a concept of the total coordination has arisen that increased coordination methods to strengthen and affluent its images for the whole with wearing accessaries such as hats, gloves, sunglasses, mufflers, bags, belts and so on.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권10호
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• pp.1509-1521
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• 2008

The subjects of this study were middle-aged women in their 40s$\sim$50s and older women aged 60 and over who were living in Seoul and Kyonggi-do, Korea. Through studying the participants' responses to the questions regarding the attributes of apparel quality in terms of the levels of satisfaction and importance, the target consumers' demand has been studied. And, they are applied to a QFD Matrix, to find out the relationship between the attributes of product quality and the guidelines of clothing design. For this study, apparel product quality is composed of five parameters: practicality, aesthetics, brand image, ease of care and fit. For the parameters of apparel product quality, the result of this study show that product improvements are needed in fit, aesthetics and practicality(in order of importance). The level of satisfaction(how satisfied consumer feels) was marked higher in brand image than that of importance(how important it is). To review demands for the apparel product attributes of formal suits for middle-aged and older women, the priority of these attributes through QFD Matrix that shows the relationship between the attributes and dress elements emphasized by designers has been examined. Material was the most important design element in designing formal suits. The shape of the pants was the second because the harmony between the jacket and the pants is important in formal suits. These were followed by trim and color tone of the jacket.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.115-125
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• 2016

This study analyzes the characteristics of the motifs and colors in flower and bird paintings which contain and present Korea's unique aesthetics based on its richest data among all other types of Korean folk paintings. With a theoretical exploration of folk paintings and an analysis of the motifs and colors, textile design with an aim to present highly valued korean modern fashion design was developed. Two hundred and seventy flower and bird paintings were selected from relevant materials, resulting in an extraction of 5,068 colors. A palette of representative colors was made based on densely distributed hues and tones. The research can be summarized as follows: Flower and bird paintings contain flowers, birds, trees and animals and the motifs in the paintings stand for spirituality, philosophies from different times and other symbols of our nation. Each of the motifs in these paintings is a prayer for good luck, especially conjugal harmony and fecundity to bring about happiness and richness. Colors in flower and bird paintings are characteristic of the order: YR(25.5%)>R(19.2%)>Y(10.6%)>PB(9.2%)>G(7.9%), with low-chromatic YR and highly bright R taking up a larger percent. The order of tones is: d(13.5%)>dk (10.5%)>s(10.4%)>dkg(10.0%)>sf(9.1%)and the tone is dark in general. YR, taking up the largest percent, was dull, light, and soft. As for the achromatic colors, the order is: W(5.2%)>Gy(1.9%)>Bk(0.7%). Based on the above analyzed color data, those colors which were high in their hue and tone were extracted to present representative colors. In this way, representative colors like yellow, yellowish red, red, green, and purplish blue were extracted. This was the basis to present motifs and colors originating from subjects of folk paintings in various patterns using Illustrator CS6, to create modern fashion design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.180-197
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to create knit ruffles that represent the aesthetic and artistic values of painted works of art that rhythmically express flower petals and add an artistic impression on the knit ruffle designs. This study is based on the artistic life of Georgia O'Keeffe and changes in her artistic background, and the world of paintings. The relevant data was gathered from domestic and foreign references, academic journals, and the internet. The characteristics of Georgia O'Keeffe paintings were examined. Her paintings typically include a series of various motifs, symmetry, balance, and harmony of detailed realistic expressions and abstract elements, repetition, and the principles of contrast and emphasis in shaping. The decoration techniques used on fabrics were applied using the knitting machine which controls the tension to develop a variety of textures, apart from the previous standardized knit textures, through various knitting techniques. A gradation effect was then applied by piece-dyeing the knitted materials in various colors to express asimilarity to the original colors in O'Keeffe's works with delicate color expressions. After the piece-dyeing, the decorative knitted materials were trimmed on a model to re-create the natural curves of flower petals. This study aims to converge works of art with fashion designs to develop various creative knitted fashion and to impart an artistic sense in the fashion design industry.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.385-395
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• 2011

This study investigates the buying behavior of apparel by middle aged women according to lifestyles. Questionnaires were distributed to 300 women who lived in the Seoul area and between 40 to 65 years of age. A sample of 248 women responded. To analyze the data, Factor Analysis, Cluster Analysis, Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) and a Duncan test were used. As a result, the respondents were clustered into 4 different groups according to lifestyles. The groups included practical oriented group, economic oriented and practical group, active oriented and appearance group, and economic group. Their buying behavior was as follows. First, the active oriented and appearance group shopped at department stores and specialty stores; however, the economic oriented and practical group shopped at discount stores more often than other groups. The practical group shopped more frequently using TV home shopping networks, discount stores, and outlet stores, the economic group shopped at off-price stores, discount stores, and online more than the other groups. Second, the active oriented and appearance group bought classic suits and semi-classic suits, imported brand and/or designer brand apparel more often than other groups. Third, the active oriented and appearance group perceived another person's appearance, advertisement, and shop display as a more important information source than other groups. Forth, the active oriented and appearance group considered design & style, harmony with self-image, brand name, color, and coordination with other clothing as more important selection factors for clothing than other groups. The economic groups considered coordination with other clothing; however, the economic oriented and practical group cited ease of care as more important factors.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.55-68
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• 2003

The purpose of this research is to expand the realm of a button for a decorative purpose through embossing the effect and gravity of a button in fashion by designing the new ceramic buttons which are mainly used for decorative function in costume. In order to acquire a motif for the design, I analyzed several works of Gustav Klimt. As the result, those feature can be classified into the use of decorative lines, mosaic forms, and harmony of golden yellow and black, and it can be applied to buttons and clothes design. The sort of clay used in manufacturing the ceramic buttons was white clay to have high density and to diffuse light well, and press shaping techniques using plaster mold were employed. The baking was performed in an electronic kiln at $800^{\circ}C$ for the first time and at $1250^{\circ}C$ for the second time. Based on wearable designs in 2002/2003 F/W Trend of Interfashion Planning, I made three pieces of dress which could express the button's capability of decoration with effect. This is expressing a simplified form which shows up in details of and yellow and red pink were used to harmonize with golden yellow clothes. As an application of shapes of foliage in I transformed its size and form to be consistent with a jacket and a tube top. To accord with golden beige costume, I made a curve, showing up in Klimt's paintings, with golden color on a circle shape which was also a main motif in his paintings.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.57-66
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to design appropriate digital tools for the production of makeup designs. In this study, we used a three-dimensional facial avatar simulation program developed by the Electronics and Telecommunications Research. This study is based on the creation of three-dimensional CG digital art of facial avatar makeup, produced by using simulation technology. First, the actual application and the tools for digital-optimization and media features were created, leading to the research and cleanup. Second, the theoretical background was applied to the formative elements of oriental colors in the designing process. Makeup design elements include point, line, surface, color, and texture. In this study, effective makeup design was interpreted to be based on the representation of particular elements, notably the design principles of balance, proportion, rhythm, repetition, emphasis, contrast, harmony, and unity. In Asia, design is based on the visibility of red, blue, black, yellow, and white-the colors of the five elements-and the use of points, lines, and shapes. This study was recently under scrutiny in relations to digital simulation and various three-dimensional designs, in terms of how to take advantage of a wide range of applications, and how to apply the findings through media and the dissemination of basic research. This study applies the characteristics of the limited existing stereoscopic three-dimensional and digital simulation programs in order to take advantage of the empirical research, providing a basis to implement this research in a meaningful way. A follow-up study is needed to extend these findings and theoretical foundation through continuous observation and in-depth technical development and research.

• 동의생리병리학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.965-975
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• 2004

The writer reviewed on Chojop and came to conclusions as follows. Symptoms of Chojop is appeared digestive ailment such as belching, nausea, regurgitation of acid, stomachache etc., if being serious, felt oppressed with palpitating in chest and uneasiness at times. In Dangaesimbub written by Chujinhyung, the causes of Chojop were mainly regarded as phlegmatic fire(痰火) and suggested the way of treatment. The causes of Chojop are movable fire with phlegm, insufficiency of blood caused by thinking to excess, and Shinyanghohan(腎陽虛汗) that is piled cold phlegm by voidance and coldness of Renal Yang, but the main cause is brought to a conclusion as phlegmatic fire. The phlegmatic fire is come from being in discord with the spleen and the stomach, or from in harmony between vigor and blood according to essence and vital energy which are disturbed by combined feelings. That is caused by disharmony between inner and outer conditions according to individuals. The distinctive features in shapes of Chojop are revealed to shapes such as manlike woman, womanlike man, wearing darkish or reddish color between two eyebrows, being almond eyed, strong eyebrows, being sunk the upper part of the nose bridge, lots of facial blots, Dam-body, Ki type, Shin type, Birds group, and Yangmyung type. The doctors can prescribe Whadamchungwhatang to Yangmyung type, Yanghyulsamul-tang for patients with strong eyebrows so flourishing blood and vigor, Hyangsapyungwuisan for patients belong to Birds group, Soshikchungul-tang for Ki type, and Palmiwhan for man belonged to Bangkwang-body with voidance and coldness of Renal Yang chiefly.

• Archives of Plastic Surgery
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.199-204
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• 2005

The nose is the most prominent area of the face, therefore susceptible to trauma and skin cancer. When small sized defect is in nasal tip, it results in disturbance of the facial harmony even if replantation, composite graft, skin graft or median forehead flap has been used for the reconstruction. So it is needed that the best method reconstruction is performed according to the degree of defect or deformity. And at the same time the physiology and anatomy of nose were clarified and its aesthetic subunits were employed. How can we cover the about 3 cm sized nasal defect in nasal tip with cartilage exposure? At first, we can think forehead island flap is most appropriate. We performed 7 cases of the forehead island flap for reconstruction of the defect in nasal tip(4 cases: cancer, 3 cases: trauma) from March, 2001 to August, 2004. This result was satisfactory in the point of texture, color, donor scar, and there were no complication such as wound disruption, infection, flap atrophy, and hematoma. The advantages of forehead island flap are: 1) No injury of deep vessel and nerve, 2) control of shape and volume, 3) Short operation time, 4) primary closure of donor site, 5) one stage operation. Also, forehead island flap can cover the defect in nose where skin graft and local flap can not cover. But, operator always must take care for flap congestion and donor site scar. We thought forehead island flap is one of the best option of reconstruction of nasal tip defect.