• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.17-30
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to investigate the philosophy behind the Kasaya and its evolution through its clothing material colour structure and sewing. According to the study the results were as follows. 1. The philosophy behind the dressing of the Kasaya can be found in the Therefore wearing the Kasaya symbolizes the Buddhist philosophy of Jat'ailshisongbul ("Simultaneous attaining of Buddhahood for Everyone") 2. The material symbolizes endurance and contentiment by being satisfied with any kind of clothes may they be good or bad. The material of the kasaya comes to signify the harmony among the monk's community 3. The Kasaya uses peculiar colours and the prohibits the use of the five primary and seconary colous. This is to symbolize equality wherein there is no distinction between the noble and the mean. 4. The structure of the Kasaya according the takes the form of a field The Jo is cut lengthwise and divided in nine grades following the Mahayana tradition as written in the This idea reflects the philosophy of salvation of the Pure land thought. The Je has many Jang('long') and fex Dan('short') The meaning of this is that all living beings by self-cultivation can overcome the dirty law of the secular world and follow the way of the sage who have attained their Buddha nature. 5. With respect to the sewing after finishin the sewing the Jang and the Dan are combined together representing the interdependence between the holy person and the common person. Therefore the sewing ssymbolizes the interconnection among all living beings as it arise from the "conditional causation" law. As I have shown above the philosophy behind of the Kasaya developed and was enriched as it cross over China from India to the Original Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Mahayana buddhist thought. As I have shown above the philosophy behind of the Kasaya developed and was enriched as it cross over China from India to the Original Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Nahayana Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Mahayana buddhist thought. As a result the Dasaya came to signify the "field image". The field-image symbolized by the kasaya came to signify the "heart-field" of all living beings. The "heart-field" by its cultivation is field with blessings. Therefore from the sanghati the Nine Grade the evolution and changes in the designs of the kasaya through the different periods of history became clearly an expression how it is possible for anybody to attend the Buddha nature. This changes also show how the Buddhist precepts became reformed from the original Buddhism.ecepts became reformed from the original Buddhism.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.89-100
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• 2016

We estimated pigments and painting techniques with nondestructive analysis for Yu Eonho's portrait made in the eighteenth century, then compared with 11 portraits and painting characteristics at that time. The pigments used to Yu Eon-ho's portrait include lead white, yellow dye, cinnabar, minium, and pink dye, malachite, azurite, iron oxide red and brown dye, blue and pink dye for purple. In the result compared with painted pigments of 11 portraits, iron oxide red without cinnabar was used on the face part and organic green dye only was used instead of inorganic pigments on the other side of clothing after Yu Eonho's portraits portrait. This study is show the painting techniques on the portraits in the late $18^{th}$ century. We expect to use as useful referencing data for the study on the coloring technique of a portrait in the late Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.1-10
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• 2021

Harnesses are used in a variety of industries, such as rescue operations, medicine, and entertainment. However, conventional harnesses have problems as they are uncomfortable to wear and causes continuous pain. Therefore, in this study, the load and pressure applied to the body in the flying state when using a conventional harness were measured in real time and the distribution change was observed. Load and pressure were measured using a modified corset harness, a pressure sensor, and a human mannequin to measure the maximum and average pressure on the waist. As a result, it was confirmed that the load concentrated on the waist in the flying state was 104 N, and the pressure was applied to the left and right sides was 800 kPa or greater. The pressure distribution showed a pressure of 3-45 kPa in 73% in all measurable pressures. The results of the load and pressure distribution are presented as basic data for improving the wearability and reducing the discomfort of harnesses in the future, aid in the development of a harnesses that can minimize discomfort for various activities, and increase the concentration on experiential activities. In addition, using the CLO 3D program, which is a 3D virtual wearing system, a harness was put on a virtual model, and the compression level was checked and compared with the actual pressure distribution. As a result of comparing the measured pressure values in the flying state with the clothing pressure wearing the harness in the CLO 3D program, the total pressure value was found to be about 68% of the actual measured value. This helps develop a harness that can minimize discomfort during activities by predicting the load and pressure on the body by first applying new designs to a virtual wearing system during development. These new harness patterns can solve the problems of conventional harnesses.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.598-605
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• 2001

The study that has been conducted is the consideration of the durability of dye, antibacterial activity, and deodorizing effects of cotton and silk textiles dyed with a botanical dying material that has been used in various ways over the years as Korean diet and folk remedies, the pomegranate. 1. The results of the K/S value of dying according to the types of mordants of textiles dyed with pomegranate extract the following have been discovered: The increase of K/S value of dying of the silk textiles appear to be higher than that of the cotton textiles. Next, silk textiles that have been treated with FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$ appear to be at the highest. 2. The results of the color change measurement show a difference of color can be noticed according to the types of mordant. As opposed to those textiles that had been only scured textiles, all of the dyed textiles appeared to turn yellow. 3. Textiles that had been treated with $K_2$Cr$_2$O(sub)7 recorded the highest durability according to the colorfastness to light results. In the case of the cotton textiles colorfastness to washing, all appeared to show exceptional results of 3rd class or higher, excluding the textiles that had been treated FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. However silk textiles recorded relatively low classes of below 3rd to 4th class. For the colorfastness to washing of pollution, the results for both the cotton and silk textiles were excellent at class 4-5. The results of colorfastness to perspiration, colorfastness to rubbing, and colorfastness to dry cleaning showed comparatively exceptional results of 3rd to 4th class or higher when it came to dyed textiles. 4. According to the measurements of antibiosis, dyed textiles that had been treated with SnCl$_2$.2$H_2O$ appeared to show an exceptional bacterium decrease of approximately 70%. 5. According to the deodorizing measurements, dyed silk textiles appeared to have a higher deodorizing effect than cotton textiles. As for cotton textiles, those that had been treated with FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$ and in the case of dyed silk textiles those that had been treated SnCl$_2$.2$H_2O$ recorded the highest deodorizing effect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.38-48
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• 2005

This study is consider·ed about the relation or costume among Parhae, ancient Japan and Tang and the culture of this time commonly was influenced by Tang;s culture. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae to Tang and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowhaha(암모화) Gu(구) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae's clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich. On the other hand, The prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang as Sooktwui(숙위). They paid a tribute to Tang and In return for it, Tang gave to Sookwui as well as to Parhae's envoys various items and clothes such as Po(포), belt(대), gold and silver Eodae(어대) and textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(관복) of Parhae. Specially, the time when Sookwui was sent to Tang rot-responded with the time when Tang gave formal uniform to Parhae's envoys. Therefore, we can confirm that the sending of Sookwui influenced to form uniform system of Parhae. In this exchange relation, there were several duplicated items showed, for example Po(포)-belt(대), Eui set(의일습), Eoeui(어의), Jobok(조복), Go(고). These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Tang to Parhae. At that time, the exchanges between Tang and Parhae were frequently active much more than those between Tang and Japan, and the acceptance of the culture from Tang was easier in Parhae than Japan in consideration of the geographical location. Therefore, those clothes could be understood as the items already used in Parhae and affected from Tang. These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Japan to Parhae. As a result, it is expected that the costumes, which Parhae took from Japan, are the same as those of Tang.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.121-131
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• 1997

This study was to design the clean room garment which fits for a body and adjusts well to the action. We examined the body's changes in action through a body measurment and made a sample of the clean room garment to which had adapted the body's changes in action and evaluated the function and the appearance compared with the existing the clean room garment. The followings were summery of the results : 1. Back intersyce breadth decreased, trunk length increased and the other parts were not change. At a posture of raising hands($M_3$) in comparison with an upright posture($M_0$). Back intersyce breadth, hip length and knee length increased and the other parts were a little change. At a bowing posture($M_2$) in comparison with an upright posture($M_0$). Back hip girth, knee length, hip length and leg length increased and the other parts were not change. At a working posture on a chair($M_1$) in comparison with an upright posture($M_0$). 2. The overall clean room garment was made increasing on the changes of part of a body through measuring and body measurement. 3. From the test of the function, it became known that the devised clean room garment was superior to the existing one in the parts of neck, shoulder, armpit and elbow at a working posture on a chair($M_1$), in the parts of neck, shoulder, and armpit at a bowing posture($M_2$), and the armpit at a posture of raising hands($M_3$). The appearance was better on the whole. 4. From the examination of photographs, the waist line of the devised clean room garment was not so much pulled up as that of the existing one on moving. And when sitting down on a chair, the waist line of the existing one was pulled down while that of the devised one had no change. As above, we investigated the actual conditions of wearing the clean room garment and measured the body's changes according the various actions. So we applied these results to the devised clean room garment but we couldn't research the clean mom effect of it owing to not obtaining the measuring instrument. The aspect of ergonomics liked the feeling of wearing and fitted to the action must be given consideration to the clean room garment, and simultaneously the dust-resistant effect must be taken into consideration in order to improve the quality of the goods. Therefore, we think it should be continued the research on the dust-resistant effect, material, washing method, quality control, and size along with the aspect of ergonomics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.76-91
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to prescribe formative perspectives as a framework where the aesthetic taste and demands of a certain period are embodied and to develop new analytical tools to examine the beauty of dress in terms of form. First, the theoretical tools selected for this study are Heinrich Wolfflin's formative perspective theory derived from art and Marilyn R. DeLong's framework for visual analysis of dress. Second, several issues that limited the development of a new framework for analyzing the form of dress were identified and addressed. Third, the selected aspects of dress form to be analyzed are specified. They are: silhouette, inner form, structure form, materials and patterns based upon the relationship between the body, dress and space in order to develop new formative perspectives. Based upon these theories a new framework for analyzing dress aesthetics in terms of form is developed. This reconstructed framework consists of three sets of antagonistic representational styles: closed form/open form, linear form/painterly form and multiplicity/unity. Closed form/open form represented in dress can be classified by the clear or obscure silhouette shown not only in the relationship between the dress and space around the dress, but also from changeability or invariability of dress in relation to the body. The material, pattern and various design elements are used as the central criteria to determine the linear/painterly characteristics in dress representations. Finally, the multiplicity/unity can be found in the relationship between the whole and the parts. Multiplicity is represented in dress when the parts have a visual priority over the whole, whereas unity is represented when a dress as a whole has visual priority over the parts. A dress represented with closed form, linear characteristic and multiplicity is perceived as a clear form. In contrast, a dress with open form, painterly characteristic and unity is understood to be an obscure form. It can be said that this study is the first attempt to establish the formative perspectives for analyzing the form of dress in various periods, cultures and races for the future studies.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1050-1063
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• 2008

A movie is a fiction made on a basis of an author's and a writer's imagination, but all sorts of properties mixed with each other and most realistically expresses the era which becomes the background of a movie and acts as a carrier that connects designers with consumers. Thus, this study was carried out to review how the fashion products that designer's intention and commercial value added are expressed in collections by comparing and analysing the costumes in the movie "The Great Gatsby" that described the life of America's upper-class in 1920s and the 04 S/S Y&Kei collection which were proceeding after getting inspiration from this movie. For this, literature materials were inspected in order to make a theoretical review on social and cultural background and costumes history background in 1920s and the photo materials on movie costume were collected and analysed using DVD video captures, as well as the photo materials on 04 S/S Y&Kei were collected and analyzed through the institute providing domestic fashion information. The following conclusion was deduced through this study. First, in 1920s which becomes the background of this study, the slim shape of Flapper which looks like a young and boy became an ideal figure condition and the straight silhouette with low waist line and the short skirt that rose to knee was popular. Second, as a result of analysing movie costume by classifying it in silhouette, colors, and materials, straight silhouette of low waistline with a near colored - tone seen in the pastel series, including white, beige, pink, and gray was mainly constituted and the metal colors like silver and gold were used. As a material, chiffon, satin, velvet, flower patterned prints, and beads were used, which represented luxurious life of women in the upper classes. Third, as a result of comparing and analysing, it turned out that there was a similarity. However, in dress collection for a heroine, some dissimilarity differentiated from a movie costumes was found out in that the dresses in collection expressed moderate beauty and modernism and elegant beauty at the same time by matching a variety of materials and using black color.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.125-135
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• 1993

The purposes of this research are firstly to define the characteristics of movement on the costume, secondly to demonstrate that fine art, expecially in relation to kinetic art, has become a good motif in modern costume de-sign, and thirdly to examin the characteristics of movement as shown in modern costume de-sign. For this study, we selected and analyzed some costume designs among those introduced in fashion magazines, which are Collections, Fashion-Preview, Fashion Show, Collezioni, and L'Officiel that have been issued since 1988. As this research is carried out only through the analysis of pictures, it is not ac-companied by a study on material itself. The result of this study is that the ex-pression of movement on modern fashion can be shown in two ways, one is the inclusive and subordinate movement expressed on the cloth-ing according to the motion of body when they are worn, and the other is the movement caused by the very designs of clothing. And the latter can be also divided in two ways, the illusionistic movement and the actual move-ment. The expression of actual movement is made through the emphasis of direction, rhythm, and dimension of the costume. And the illusionistic movement is expressed by the de-sign to which the textile pattern or reflection of light is applied so that the movement is larger than the actual movement. A sense of direction expressed on the cos-tume by the actual movement creates a light rhythm and adds interest to the costume. This reflects a part of psychology of modern men who are not accustomed to the statics. In the rapidly changing society of information our modern men seek after movement even in the statics. It is also true in the clothing and they seem to get a psychological rest through the immediated visual change as shown in fashion design. The simple and cheerful rhythm expressed by the illusionistic movement on the costume is attempted in order to overcome the static tediousness caused by simple design. These elements of movement cause the en-largement of visible range and create another enlarged shape other than the real one, so that they come to remove the dullness and monot-ony in costume design and provoke interest in costume, as if kinetic art reveals the various aspects that transcend the closed area of fine art upon the motif of 'movement'. finally, as this paper deals with the ex-pression of movement as shown in the costume design which prevailed after 1988, it is desir-able hereafter to study more about the fashion since 1950 when kinetic art began in earnest, along with the comparative study on the ex-pression of movement in our Korean designer's and foreign designer's works.