• Title/Summary/Keyword: Buddhist costume

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A Study on Historical Research for Costume of Banya(般若) in King Gongmin's Period of Late Goryeo - Focused on the Buddhist Service Costume - (고려 말 공민왕 재위기의 반야(般若) 복식 고증요소 고찰 - 불교법회 복식을 중심으로 -)

  • Choi, Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.6
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    • pp.112-132
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    • 2015
  • Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.

A Study on Symbolic Significance of the Jaesuk -kori Shaman's Custom (제석거리 무복의 상징성에 관한 연구)

  • 김은정;김용서
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.3
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    • pp.5-12
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    • 2000
  • Jaesuk-koli an important part of the 12 shamanistic rituals, is an accepted buddhist monk's costume. In this paper, the Jaesuk-kori costume and its meaning are studied. The ornaments of shaman's costume differe somewhat from region among individual shamans, but the symbolic meansing are fairly similar. The significance of Jaesuk-kori shaman's costume ar as followed ; First , a Buddhist monk's costume is accpted in the Jaesuk-kori ritual costume. Second, a shaman wears Jangsam (long-sleeved buddhist robe) and Kasa (surplice) in the Jaesuk-kori rituals. Third, the ornament of Sipjangsang objects search for earthly happiness while the rotus flower embroidered on the costume , depicts purity in the heaven world. Fourth, five colors in the Jaesuk-kori costume represented, Yin and Yang of universal harmony. Jesuk-kori ritual costumes signify that traditioal shamanism was accepted and absorbed into Buddhist rituals system.

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A Study on the Present Monk′s Costume of the Korean Buddhist -Focusing on Jokye and Taego Sects- (한국불교 현행 승복에 관한 연구 -조계종과 태고종을 중심으로-)

  • 이은숙;김진구
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.77-91
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    • 1994
  • The Korean Buddhism has been an effect on the Korean culture from the spipitual culture to the living culture. The Korean Buddhist costume, as an external form of the Buddhist culture, symbolizes the Buddhist ideas, the status difference of the general public, and keeps the traditional structure. The purpose of this study was to examine the monk's costume of Jokye sect and Taego sect among 47 sects,. In this study, it selected Jokye sect and Taego sect, because they are occupying important positions in the Korean Buddhism. The methods of this study depended on the documentary records, existing remains, the wearing clothing, the interviews with monks. In a changeful times, It is needed to study the actual condition of the Buddhist costume and keeps records about it. The results of this study may be stated as follows: The Buddhist costuem is composed of Chogori, Baji, Haengjon(leggins), Durumagi, Jangsam, kasa, hats, rubber shoes, Jori and Gelmang, etc. Chogori, Baji, Haengjon, Durumagi as the everyday dress are found in the Korean traditional costume. The forms and kinds of the everyday dress were the same between two sects, but the colors were different. Jangsam and kasa are the formal robe. In regard to Jangsam, two sects ere dressed in gray. But there were differences of design between two sects. Kasa was different in the forms, patterns, colors, and kinds according to the legal system of the monk and the sects.

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The Gandhara Buddhist Robe and its Development in China (간다라 불의 형식의 시작과 중국으로의 전개)

  • Lee Soon-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.5 s.95
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    • pp.120-130
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    • 2005
  • The main feature of Buddhist sculpture Is said to lay in how it can materialize the divineness. Therefore lots of people used to pay attention to whether its religious features draw people's reverence or not. However, the robe of Buddhist sculptures has not won its proper attention. The Buddhist robe Is usually considered as a mere measure to make Buddha's supernatural feature more vivid. However, contrary to our expectation, the robe is the very real one which can be found in people's lift. The Gandhara Buddhist sculpture robe does not have sleeves, but several sheet of clothes covered the sculpture. Moreover, we can find same features in monk's robe which appeared in the Gandhara art. I can therefore conclude that this robe is not confined to Buddha, but is very popular one in that time in Gandhara. This article would survey the main feature and its relevant things about Gandhara Buddhist sculpture's robe, especially its change process while it had been transmitted to China.

A Study on the Costume Work Applying Kkot Mun(Floral Doors) (꽃문을 응용한 의상 작품 제작에 관한 연구)

  • Moon, Myeng-Ok
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.270-277
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    • 2007
  • Buddhist temples and halls signify paradise on earth. Buddhist sutras refer to paradise as a place where flowers fall down like snow, fragrance and music fill the air, flowers blossom and butterflies fly. The Kkot Mun of Buddhist temples are an essential part of the creation of this paradise and are ornamented with elaborate sculptures of flowers and animals. The ornamentation of the Kkot Mun is truly admirable for its artistry and beauty. Although the Kkot Mun is an element of Korean traditional Buddhist architecture, it could also be applied to costume work. I thought the characteristic elements of the Kkot Mun for the costume work were the flower, the lattice and the transparent effect that was made with the lattice and Dagjongee. I used the technique of strap cutting, strap twisting and cut-out for the lattice of Kkot Mun and flower making, knitting, cut-out and quilting for the flower of Kkot Mun. I represented the transparent effect of Kkot Mun with the lapped materials. I selected six remarkable Kkot Mun of Korean temples, revised shapes of these and made six costume works. These six costume works would be the suggestion of costume design if an element of Korean traditional architecture was applied to modern costume making.

A Study on the Religious Costume in Korea - Buddhist and Taoist Costume - (한국(韓國) 종교복식(宗敎服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 불교(佛敎)와 도교복식(道敎服飾)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Im, Yeong-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.14
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    • pp.63-73
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    • 1990
  • The thought of three religious, Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism, had been the mainaxis of Korean spirit of the past. This study is centered on Buddhist and Taoist costume. There have been a lot of studies on Korean costume from many viewpoints. However, there have been few approaches to the inner !"ide of it. That is to say, the research on spiritual back-ground or religious correlation has not done yet. And especially, we are wholly lacking the studies on Taoist costume. In this dissertation, I investigate how they had come to wear Buddhist costume and how it trans, on the basis of related documentary records and existing remains. I also inquiry Taoist costume which was worn at Taoist ceremony in our country, with the help of Korean books and documents and of the sources of Packwoonkwan in China. In the case of Topobyunjeung in Korean costume, in particular, we can catch the source of it only after studying the religious side of Taoist costume and Buddhist costume. As revealed in the theory of Topobyunjeung in Ojuyunmoonja-ngsango by Lee, Kyu Kyung, even old masters and great Confucianists could not know whether Topo, the ordinary clothes of the Sadaeboo, originated from Taoist costume or Buddhist costume. There have been many opinions about the origin, but even now it is true that no one has made it clear. Therefore in this dissertatio I demonstrate mainly how Topo and Hakchangeui appeared in Korean costume through Taoist costume. It is said that Taoists, Buddhists, and literary men wore Topo, Chickchul, and Chickshin in Song dynasty of China. Topo was a clerical robe of Taoists and was also an ordinary clothes. Chick-chul was a clerical robe of Buddhists, and Chick-shin was worn by Zen priests in Won dynaty. Over the Po, Buddhist wore a large robe, namely Kasa, and Taoist wore Packhakchang like Wooeui, when they attended at the religious ceremony. And they regarded such manner of dressing as ceremonial full-dress attire. The style of Topo in China was Saryunggyogeo. The is th say that they put the black Yeon along Sajoo, which are Young, Soogoo, Keum, and Keo, and that they wore Sajodae around their waists so as to let the band down in front of them. Our existing type of Topo is that of Chickryung-gyoin. The characteristics of the type are its Koreum hung on the dress, no Yeon along Sajoo, and Soopok at the back of the dress. And when they put on the dress, they wear Saejodae around their waists. These characteristics considered, we can find the source of Topo from the Po of Chickshin among Buddhist costume. Other types of Topo are those that were transformed elegantly according to our national manners and customs in our country. So-called Wooeui in Chiness Taoism is Hakchang. Originally it was made by weaving for of cranes or other feathered birds. Its remarkable feature is the wide sleeves. Later they called such a robe with wide sleeves Hakchang. Our hakchangeui has Yeon along Sajoo and a belt around waist. We can guess that the features of Topo and wide-sleeved Hakchang mingled and turned into Hakchangeui. Or it might also be that Topa worn by Taoist was regarded as Hakchang and Topa which has Yeon along Sajoo was regarded as Hakchangeui in our country. Such type of Hakchang worn by Taoists was well shown in the Buddhist and Taoist paintings among "The Pictures of Hills, Waters, and Folks" in the latter half of the 16th century. In China Hakchang with a belt around waist could not be seen. Comparing our style of Hakchangeui with the Chinese style, we can recognize the former was similar to that of Chinese Topa. From this, we gather that Topa was regarded as Hakchang, Wooeui worn by Taoists, Ascetics and True Men in Korea. Furthermore I also gather that our Hakchangeui, which has Tongjeong, Koreurn and a belt around waist, was a transformed style in our own country. From the above, we can realize that in costume the three religions, Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism, cannot be treated separately although they are different each other in the essential thought. We have to recognize that Korean Costume was established under the closely connected correlation among the religions and that it was transfigured and accepted according to the cultural characteristics. This study is significant in that it is the first attempt to understand Korean costume through the religous approach, which has never been made in our Korean costume studies. We are demanded even more wide and profound investigation on the religious side of costume throughout the general field of costume studies.

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The Characteristics of Seon as Expressed in the Costumes of Worldly Figures Illustrated in Koryo Buddhist Paintings (고려불화를 통해 본 현실세계 인물의 복식에 표현된 선의 특성)

  • Ok, Myung-Sun;Park, Ok-Lyun;Lee, Joo-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.10
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    • pp.52-64
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of Seon that was expressed in the costumes of worldly figures illustrated in Koryo Buddhist paintings. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Out of the above mentioned costumes, except those for Buddha and Bodhisattava, most were actually worn by people of Koryo. Shown in the paintings, the patterns and decorations of Seon are more brilliant and diverse in part of worldly figures than in that of Buddhist figures. For men, Seon was mainly used to robes for Buddhist priest while, for women, costumes for the queen and noble women. Seon was applied to costumes for both men and women, especially Po for ritual purposes. Besides, it was sometimes used to Buddhist priests' robes and women's Banbi and chima. The patterns of Seon were usually single in composition style and scattering in arrangement style. Whether applied to costumes for men or women, Seon usually had complementary colors that were harmonized.

A Study on the Kasaya Rule of Southern Vinaya-Pitaka (남전 율장의 가사 계율에 관한 고찰)

  • 박일록
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.1-14
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    • 2000
  • This paper is on the Kasaya that reveals conspicuously the religious meaning among the Korean Buddhist costumes. The Kasaya has the most special meaning among Korean costume culture. It has the most important historical value, for Buddhism is the oldest religion that begins at 4th century A.D.. It has the most unordinary shape that we could not find any other costume culture. It has very important meaning to study on the Kasaya in the religious and cultural history of Korean costume. We have to study Korean Kasaya from surveying Indian Buddhist Kasaya diachronicaly. Buddha establishes himself the rules of weaving, coloring and wearing Kasaya. Bunso costume(분소의)is the first shape of Kasaya that he has worn during his ascetic practice. Bunso costume was a kind of shari. It is made with diapers those clean ordure of baby It symbolizes the life of ascetic practice. However Buddha could not stick to it as the only costume of monks. From his age Buddhist devotees have thought Buddha and monks as sacred beings. So they eagerly want to Provide the sacred beings with foods. clothes and other things that samgha(승가) need to live and accomplish their duties. At that time there are many kings, aristocracies and rich merchants among the devotees. They often offered them the luxurious silk Kasaya. that the ascetic monks could not wear. to express their deep faith. So the rules of the samgha has been distorted. The samgha has enlarged day by day as a great huge religious association. There are many different shapes of Kasaya. The Buddhist samgha need to establish a minute and rigid rules of Kasaya to order living of monks and to teach the moral and educational life to ordinary people. That book of rule is Vinaya pitaka(율장) . There are many kinds of Vinaya pitaka. This paper surveys the rules of Kasaya from Southern Vinaya pitaka(남전율장). This study will be the basic ground to research the Korean Buddhist Kasaya.

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조사도 복식에 관한 연구-전라도지역 사찰 소장 조사도를 중심으로-

  • 안명숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.25
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    • pp.63-69
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    • 1995
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate to the costumes in a portrait of the Buddhist Monk of JUN-NAM's local Temple. The Kasa was used to base of the rule be-cause this was not our's own costumes. There-fore size, form, wearing-assistance ornament of Kasa were to similiar to the rule's Kasa. But in case of color were used to pink, yellow, chest-nut except the red color. A Buddhist monk's robe were putted on adapt to climate in our nation. Without special condition, a Buddhist monk's robe were used to varied color, that is grey, green, pink, blue,(light, navy) blue, chestnut etc.

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Research on Jangsam in Buddhist Priest's and Shaman's costumes (승복과 무복으로 착용되는 장삼에 관한 연구)

  • 김은정
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.42 no.2
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    • pp.151-160
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    • 2004
  • This paper researched and compared the Jangsam religious costume, of Buddhism in Yeongsanjae with that of Shamanism in Gutgeori. Jangsam is a full length, flaxen hemp dress used in both religions. (Ed-please amend this sentence as necessary but note that it is essential to give some description of the costume here for non-Korean readers) The religious point of view can cause Jangsam's features to differ Jangsam's meanings are as follows. First, the purpose of wearing Jangsam in both the Buddhist priest's and Shamans' costumes is to gain power from the Almighty in order to maximize the religious effect. Second, Jangsam in the Shaman's costume features universality mixed with Buddhism and folk religion and becomes symbolic in Buddhism. As society disregards Shamanism, it has become combined with Buddhism. Third, Jangsam for Yeongsanjae or Chukwon Gut has kept its religious specialty as a Pyoeui despite various modifications.