• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.433-446
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• 2001

Recently, according to changes in fashion trends, the importance of stretch fabric stands out. A lot of studies on non-stretch woven fabrics have been made, but few studies on stretch fabrics has been made yet. Especially, the study on ease for the patterns, according to body types, of stretch has not been made at all. The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to standard body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0㎝ and W-1㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2㎝ and H+0㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+0㎝, H+2㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.0∼4.6% of waist, 2.1∼4.3% of hip for standard body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For standard body type, W+0㎝, W-1㎝ for waist and H+2㎝, H+0㎝ for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.168-178
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• 2015

This article analysis the aesthetics of metal-body of (1989) and its metamorphosis of dehumanization through visual desires expressed by body images. This paper suggests theoretical analysis based on aesthetic views to understand the underlying meanings. The research categorizes three types of images; surreal image, grotesque image and eros image from the metamorphosis of dehumanization and transformation throughout the film. As the surreal image, the metamorphic process of transformation, demolition, derangement, illusion, and human desire continues to reflect the evil side of a human in everyday life. It also visualizes the images of exaggeration through weakness and bizarre side of metal-body. The grotesque image of body metamorphosis displays and symbolizes double-sides of bizarre and weak side of human in the everyday environment when malformation reaches its peak when Tetsuo finally shows his transforming figure. Finally, the eros image is analogized as a man's inner self and self-destruction in surreal world and a grotesque figure when overwhelming desire of transforming into rebirth of a perfect metal-body, Tetsuo. The surreal image, grotesque image, and eros image portraits human desires inner and outer-self into visualized image and that represents the means of excessive desire for dreaming of world domination with merging non-organic medium of metal and organic body to create a perfect body-image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.823-835
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• 2018

The body is an important object of costume expression, and the reflection of the aesthetics of the body according to age, culture, individual or group determines the form of the costume. In particular, British artist Leigh Bowery provided many designers and celebrities with original design ideas. Leigh Bowery's costumes are related to the carnival concept. Thus, this study analyzed Leigh Bowery's life and works, and examined Michael Bakhtin's grotesque carnivalesque theory. Based on Bakhtin's carnival theory around 100 works by Leigh Bowery, in the form of YouTube videos and DVD clips were analyzed in this study. The results of the analysis Leigh Bowery's body and costume research are as follows. First, this study can define fetishism as a characteristic of costumes such as body suits, harnesses, high-heeled boots, and stockings, that stress the body. Second, the character of the body is not expressed as that of an idealized body, but the fat and ugly aspect are revealed. Third, Leigh Bowery's costumes are characterized by ambiguity. The costumes blur the boundaries between women and men. Fourth, common sense, combined with normal and bizarre, brings out a strong sense of carnival humor with ridiculousness arising from the gap between reality and reality. His performance has had a significant impact on victims of discrimination or unequal treatment in sexual, racial, and age-related situations. This study should inspire many designers through the study of Leigh Bowery's body expression and dress, but it also introduces fashion icons that are not well known in Korea.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.531-539
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the Renaissance period. Fashion is a reflection of Zeitgeist. The ideal aesthetic values of each period create the concept of ideal beauty for that period. Costume represents the ideal beauty of a particular period. The aesthetic characteristic of men's costume in the age of Renaissance was analyzed in terms of four categories: the beauty of male body, sublime beauty, sensual beauty, and artistic beauty. First, for the beauty of male body, the men in the age of Renaissance enlarged their chests and shoulders by inserting a pad in them in order to express their masculine beauty of human body by emphasizing their sexual organ. Second, for the sublime beauty, men's costume was exaggerated by using a pad, a ruff collar and slash. In this period, men intended to represent their power and dignity through horizontal extension in their costume. Third, for the sensual beauty, erotic emphasis were made through physical elements. In order to show off sexual charms, men padded their costumes and introduced the codpiece. Last, for the artistic beauty in the age of the Renaissance, men's costume showed proportional, balanced and symmetrical beauty. And men's costume was made of rich brocades, which were embroidered and encrusted with jewels.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.63-75
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• 2016

This study examines the organic geometry in Isabel Toledo's collections in terms of the practicality of American sportswear tradition. This study conducts literary survey combined with case analysis of Toledo's works from her debut collection in 1985 to the recent ones. The organic geometry in Toledo's designs refers to the conversion of two-dimensional garment patterns into three-dimensional garment forms with the body as a medium, which is classified into the following categories in this study. First, 'fluidity' describes Toledo's highly fluid jersey dresses which maintain consistent structures by patchwork draping and suspension technique. Second, 'reductionist structure' illustrates that simple geometric shapes such as circles and squares disappear as soon as worn on the body. Third, 'origami construction' explains folding two-dimensional fabrics into three-dimensional forms, which causes the outlines of the body to appear abstract. Toledo's designs deliver the tradition of American sportswear through the organic geometry of garment construction. Toledo's works are authentic American in the aspects that they are functional and modern; they satisfy the practical needs, prioritize the movements of wearers, pursue multi-functions, and their ornamental elements are accompanied by the construction of garments. Isabel Toledo presents designs drawing on her unwavering aesthetics while continuously developing and experimenting creative ways of garment construction.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.455-463
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• 2020

This researcher has sorted out the development process of death aesthetics contained in human art through advanced research. This research is a follow-up study of related research, which studies the aesthetic meaning of death in Alexander McQueen's fashion works. This study first classifies the aesthetic characteristics of death, and then analyzes and sorts out the aesthetics of death in Alexander McQueen's clothing works based on this. The results of this study are as follows: first, the aesthetic manifestations of death are divided into three categories: reproducibility, symbolic and religious. Among them, the representation of reproducibility includes the representation of real objects and the representation of virtual objects, and the symbolic performance includes two types of external performance and internal performance. Second, in Alexander McQueen's works, the reproducibility of death was mainly reflected by virtual stage scenes and costumes. Thirdly, the symbolic death is not only reflected in the skeletons and blood etc. directly related to the death of the body, but also in the various emotions and psychological states caused by the death. Fourth, the religious nature of death was represented in Alexander McQueen's works through such representative things as crosses and religious stories.

• Journal of the Daesoon Academy of Sciences
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• v.37
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• pp.191-227
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• 2021

In this study, values of truth and good are expressed in the form of beauty, and truth and good are analyzed from an aesthetic point of view. This enables an assessment of how truth is expressed and presented as an "aesthetic" in Daesoon Thought. Therefore, an approach to faith in Daesoon Jinrihoe (大巡眞理會) can be presented via traditional aesthetics or theological aesthetics that reflect on sense experience, feelings, and beauty. The concept of beauty in Daesoon Thought which focuses on The Canonical Scripture appears in keywords used in Daesoon Thought such as divine nature (神性), the pattern of Dao (道理), the singularly-focused mind (一心), and relationships (關係). Therein, one can find sublimation, symmetry, moderation, and harmony. The aesthetic features of Daesoon Thought, when considered as an aesthetic system can formulate thinking regarding the aesthetics of 'Reordering Works of Heaven and Earth' (天地公事), the aesthetics of Mutual Beneficence (相生), and the aesthetics of healing. The Reordering Works of Heaven and Earth contain a record of the Supreme God visiting the world as a human being. The realization that the human figure, Kang Jeungsan (1871-1909), is the Supreme God, Sangje (上帝), is the shocking aesthetic motif and theological starting point of the Reordering Works of Heaven and Earth. Mutual Beneficence can be seen aesthetically as indicating the sociality of mutual relations, and there is an aesthetic structure of Mutual Beneficence in the harmony and unification of those relations. Healing can be said to contain the sacred sublimation of Sangje, and moderation is a form of beauty that makes humans move toward Quieting the mind and Quieting the body (安心·安身), the Dharma of Presiding over Cures (醫統), and the ultimate value of healing, which is the end point of the Cultivation (修道) wherein one realizes that the ideals of humankind and the aesthetics of healing bestow the spiritual pleasures of a beautiful and valuable life. The aesthetic characteristics of Daesoon Thought demonstrate an aesthetic attitude that leads to healing through Sangje's Holy Works and the practice of Mutual Beneficence (相生) which were performed when He stayed with us to vastly save all beings throughout the Three Realms that teetered on the brink of extinction. It is not uncommon to see a beautiful woman and remark she is like a goddess (女神) or female immortal (仙女). Likewise, beautiful music is often praised as "the sound of heaven." That which fills us with joy is spoken of as "divine beings (神明)" of God. God is a symbol of beauty, and the world of God can be said to be the archetype of beauty. Experience of beauty guides our souls to God. The aesthetic experience of Daesoon Thought is a religious experience that culminates in emotional, intellectual, and spiritual joy, and it is an aesthetic experience that recognizes transcendent beauty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.95-109
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• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze the formative characteristic and the aesthetic values of Romantic style. To attain the goal of this study, the selected objects are the Romantic styles that were prevalent from the 1830s to the 1880s. The methodology for this study consists of literary research, aesthetics, dress and case study based upon the analysis of the 19th century dress. Based upon the theoretical study, two results are derived from the analysis of Romantic style in $19^{th}$ century dress. First, the formative characteristics of Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The suppression of body is embodied by two ways. One is tightening body parts, such as the off-the-shoulder line and the corset, and the other is applying weights on body through the wearing of layers of petticoat, crinoline and bustle. The characteristic of the fixed form created the fixed silhouettes of women's dress, for example, an X-silhouette formed with wide shoulders created by big puffed sleeves, narrow waist by corset, and wide hemline of voluminous skirt and petticoats. In addition to the X-silhouette, the bustle style created fixed h-silhouette. Volume in the women's dress were visually expressed by big puffed sleeves, a huge skirt and petticoat made with gathers, pleats and flounces, crinolines and a bustle. Ornamentation was used to express an elegant and fantastic style not only by using luxurious materials in various colors and patterns, but also by applying sumptuous details and trimmings. Second, the aesthetic values of Romantic style dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. Women's dress of the 19th century not only restricted free movement and symbolized men's wealth and status, but also was used as an important tool for seducing men by exposing and accentuating the sexual body, thus becoming a symbol of fertility as a metaphor of pregnancy and uterus. These aesthetic values represented in dress incorporated the contemporary requirements of women of the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.9_10 s.146
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• pp.1219-1229
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• 2005

The objectives of this study were to investigate the differences in clothing and body attitude according to demographic variables, and to examine how clothing and body attitude were influenced by social values and demographic variable of adolescents. The questions of 5-point Likert scale were used for the evaluation of clothing attitude, body attitude, and social values. Four dimensions of social values were derived by factor analysis: 'the sense of estrangement', 'the satisfaction with school life', 'materialism', and' the sense of community'. Subjects were 373 adolescent girls in Seoul(182 middle school students and 191 high school students). The data were analyzed by using factor analysis, t-test, one-way ANOVA, and multiple regression analysis. First, the conformity to entertainers' dresses was influenced by materialism and age(-). Clothing aesthetics was influenced by materialism and allowance, and fashion was influenced by materialism. Second, the interest of plastic surgery was influenced by materialism and allowance. The interest of weight was influenced by the sense of estrangement, school grade(-), the education level of mother, materialism, and the satisfaction with school life. The interest of makeup was influenced by allowance, school grade(-), and the education level of mother(-). Appearance satisfaction was influenced by the sense of estrangement(-) and the satisfaction with school life. The present result means that social values such as materialism and the sense of estrangement are significant variables to understand the appearance attitude of adolescents.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.35-50
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• 2011

In this study, repression of the body is defined as a restriction on natural developments or movements and a modification either temporarily or permanently of the human body in shape, color, texture and odor. In addition, it involves physical and (or) mental pain. Chinese foot-binding and the Western corset are extreme examples of female body's being repressed in the history of fashion. The analysis of this type of repression will be based on historical research and theoretical concepts such as Darwin's (1809-1882) survival condition, Freud's (1856-1939) renunciation of desire, Weil's (1909-1943) privilege, and Foucault's (1926-1984) L'Usage des Plaisirs(the use of pleasure). Chinese foot-binding symbolically represents ideal beauty, the distinction of an ethnic group, and a desire for improved social status in the struggle for political power. It also represents psychology and a esthetics of eroticism and fetishism that originate from a man's desire and his individual taste. Symbolically, the Western corset represents abundance and fecundity, obedience and devotion to religion, the sanctity of God and ideal beauty as defined by political power. It also represents psychology and aesthetics of eroticism and fetishism as man's desire and a fashion icon. In conclusion, Chinese foot-binding was pursuit of power in male ideology but Western corset was a power struggle between God and mankind.