• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.18-35
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• 2008

As an essential factor of plasticity in fashion, color reflects socio-cultural trends and has possessed different symbolism in its historical development. This study aims to search for an academic approach towards finding out how the concepts and symbolism of the color white were expressed in actual clothing. This will be realized through the investigation of the various meanings this particular color possesses. The secondary purpose of this study is to give shape to the results of above said academic investigation by proposing their integration into actual fashion design. The methodology employed in this study and results are as follows. First, the symbolism of the color white abstracted from the research of literature on this subject was classified into six categories; purity, grace, abstinence, sublimity, decorativeness, and avant-garde. Second, for empirical research, six designs were developed and produced into white dresses. The development of these dress designs was realized by presenting the symbolism of the aforementioned six categories into images, and the formative constructions of these images by applying various design details, expressive techniques, and characteristics of the materials. Through an investigation into the color white, which has been excluded from previous chromatics research as a major color, integration of the symbolism and chromatic image of this color into the actual fashion design process is made possible. The significance of this study is in that it proposes multifarious possibilities in fashion design, and also in extending the horizon of chromatics research in fashion through the realization of the above process.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.22-32
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the aesthetic characteristics of check fashion of the 20th century and to analyze the formativeness for them shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) Before the First World War, check patterns were used for S silhouette dresses and hobble dresses. During the two wars, they were used for garçonne style dresses and military suits. Check patterns were used for mini style in the 1960s, uni-sex style in the 1970s, and power suits in the 1980s. Especially after the 1980s, check patterns have followed the fashion trend of each season and appeared in retro styles. Consequently, the aesthetic characteristics of check dresses of the 20th century are traditionality, ornamentation and eclecticism. 2) Traditionality of check fashion shown in recent collections was implied in the classic styles like suits with its grey glen check, avant-garde styles like boxy coat with its dark blue tartan check, and so forth. Ornamentation was shown in the modern styles like jackets decorated with block check colored white and black, casual styles like bomber jackets with hound tooth check colored white and black, and so forth. Eclecticism was reflected in the romantic styles like one-piece dresses with hound tooth check colored white and light blue, elegant styles like low-cut dress with its dark blue window pane check, ethnic styles like long cape with gingham check colored white and black, and so forth.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.577-587
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• 2016

This study aims to identify the design of men's wear that has the characteristics of expressing maximalism in men's wear collection and contribute to the field of men's wear fashion which expects new, original, and experimental fashion styles to be created. When it comes to research contents, this study first identifies the concept and characteristics of expression of maximalism in such fields as literature and art and based on this, makes a case study of men's wear fashion designs shown in men's wear collection and then understands the type of characteristics of expressing maximalism and the characteristics related to its expressive method in men's wear design. The study findings are as follows: First, expansion referred to the extreme avant-garde that changed the concept of fashion design by expanding clothes or accessories or exaggerating silhouettes. Second, fanciness continued to appear as a tool to use the luxurious decorations that applied fancy handicraft techniques and express the world of original design. Third, fusion represented the expression of various charms from one work without making any classifications between the tradition and the present and between the east and the west. Fourth, fantasy indicated the expression of surrealistic images by expressing the unbounded imagination through creative ideas.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제16권7호
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• pp.633-639
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• 2016

'공황연극(Panic theatre)'의 미학을 실천하며 현대 전위연극의 기수인 페르난도 아라발 작품 ${\ll}$게르니카${\gg}$의 실제 춤-연극 창작을 통해 광적의식과 움직임의 시적표현에 나타난 집단페이소스를 분석하였다. 분석논리는 인간의 내면적 대립과 모순의 이원적 요소를 근거로 비현실과 비논리를 뛰어넘는 부조리극의 페이소스 특성에 기초하였다. 작품 ${\ll}$게르니카${\gg}$에서 부조리 춤은 광적의식에서 비롯된 집단페이소스 현상으로 나타났으며, 단계적인 몰입구조를 통해 시적표현의 연계반응과 춤 표현의 새로운 소통구조의 틀로 분석되었다.

• 한국CDE학회논문집
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.77-91
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• 2004

Integrating computer-aided design with computer-aided fabrication and construction will fundamentally redefine the relationship between design and construction. Rapid prototyping(RP) is evaluated as one of the integration method available but it has been regarded as very expensive and complex design evaluation tool and is only suitable for large mechanical design shops in automobile and aerospace industry. However current status of rapid prototyping is changing since the new generation of RP equipment, less expensive and more user-friendlier, now can be installed and use in design firms. Simultaneously increasing use of 3D CAAD software is also helping to use rapid prototyping widely. It is crucial to acknowledge rapid prototyping technologies are not only for avant-garde architect such as Frank O. Gehry but ordinary 90% architects, who can have benefit from fast and cost-effective technology. With its fast development and adaptation in architectural industry, it is quite necessary to include rapid prototyping education in regular CAAD courses either undergraduate or graduate level.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.111-126
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• 2001

This study concentrates on the relationship between the early 20th century italian artists and their works in the field of clothing design. They advocated the creation of art for life and introduced a new type of work of art which I will call 'experimental clothing for art'. The experimental clothing for art showed its dynamic characteristics in the field s of line and form, color, pattern, and material. The Italian artists made simple and functionalistic dresses, using asymmetric, geometric cuts. in pattern making. They employed dynamic patterns in textile design and favored brilliant colors which they debunked as storage and traditional. With regard to material, they used unusual materials such as metal, net, wire, and paper and inexpensive materials. To investigations of the visual expression of experimental clothing for art in Italy have led us to the internal expressions which are avant-garde, dynamic & speed, functionality & popularity, ephemeral & transformable, and warlike. As a result of the reflection of the times and the artists's will and roles the experimental clothing for art in Italy implicated contemporary clothing in the early twentieth century and it was only laboratory art that underwent various experiments in canvas but a model of efforts for the at of living, which was anti-traditional. It offered a new future and created a new environment. It is left for future research how the experimental clothing for art developed in countries other than Italian.

• 복식
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• 제51권6호
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• pp.129-145
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• 2001

Socks and stockings played a role as the first clothing covering foots and legs in ancient times. During the Middle Age they have represented clothing for legs and have been transformed into plasticity and aesthetic outlets for human beings aesthetic desire. Recently in around 1980 various experiments have been tried on them as part of total fashion changing as fashion trends changes. In 1990s the industry of socks and stocking in Korea has grown up as niche market, increasing the export amount twice as much as before. Therefore, this paper reveals the plasticity through historical study of socks and stockings. The purpose of this research is to analyse the plasticity by image classification of socks and stockings in 1990s on the basis of historical studies, which will be the basic data for developing high value added products. The major plasticity features of socks and stockings are material, technic, formativeness, ornament, color in a word. In 1990s the images of socks and stockings are classified into romantic, sporty, ethnic, ecology, avant- garde image. In 20th century knit and nylon became common and the part of the total fashion, completing the whole fashion.

• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.137-150
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• 1993

Sonia Delaunay was among the group of avant-garde artists drawn to Paris in the early part of this century who were exploring concepts of art that were felt to capture best the speed and me chanization of the modern world. She believed modernity-and her own attitude toward modern life-could be expressed through the primacy of color in art the dynamic inter-play of its dissonances and harmonies. The metap-hysical implications Delauny felt inherent in this idea made it applicable to all surfaces, and she was compelled to transform the world around her ac-cording to it. She set up a dialogue between fine art and everyday objects and accompplished the transition from representation work to her color theory through her investigation in embroidery and collage. This study is for Sonia Delaunay's field fo work which is close to fine and applied arts. To study Sonia Delaunay's work, I can find some points of her fashion designs. First, Simultaneous, which is to use collage tec-henics such as simultaneous and meterial to com-binate of variety meterial. Seound, Durability which is restoration of mor-dern fashion, Eventhough her work is 60 years old still it is foward to the furture. Imitation of textile which is devdloped by her, always looks new and fresh. Third, The elements of Folklore. Her elements of Russia, it appears on variety colors. Sepecially contemporary cloths has elements of folklore, we should use it and made it to suituble to contem-porary fashion of our country. For the furture, we need more study how to apply pictorial meterial of art into fashion design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.380-392
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate a comparison between method of depaysement of Surrealism and modern costume. Surrealism was based on Freud's theory of uncon\ulcornersciousness and Hegelian dialectic. I found that its method of expression and inspiration have a continuous influence on a field of fashion through preceding study. Surrealism stimulated Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) to make creative and innovative costume which created a sensatio.i1 the world of fashion in 1930. And it have been influence on modern fashion. From this point of view, I examined surrealistic painter of Rene Magritte (1898-1967) to use shocking method of depaysement through literature and photographes. And I made researches on Paris London collcetions from 1989 to 1994 in the cause of analysis a comparison with depaysement in painting of R. Magritte. As the result of analysising main works of R.Magritte according classification of Suzi Gabric (an art critic), he was expressive of usual object in various of depaysement. I also proved that modern fashion which was new shocking, innovative and avant-garde presented unconsciousness through these expression of depaysement with common subject. In consequence, the method of expression of surrealism have been a durable influence on modern costume.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.173-189
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• 1995

purpose of this study is to analyze the various phenomenon related to the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress, which is impossible to describe with only functionalism, practically and objectivism of aesthetic value for dress based on Karl Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of ugliness from the middle of 1980's to present. In other words, the ugliness had been selected and erected as the opposite meaning of beauty to head toward ultimate beauty, and clarify that ultimate beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty and ugliness. First, the ugliness and Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of Ugliness had been examined theoretically in the aspect of the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress and aesthetic category. The relationship between the artistic styles related to ugliness, such as Avant-garde, Primitivism of Expressionism, Grotesque, Decadence, Kitsch, Pastich\ulcornerParody, from the late 19c to present, and the dresses representing the ugly look such as Cyber Punk, Exotic look, Detester, Grunge, Hip-hop, etc, of 1990's had been studied by using photographic materials. In this study, the basic concepts of ugliness, including formlessness, inaccuracy and deformation, formed by K. Rosencrantz had been used to reveal the interaction between modem costume and the theory of ugliness.