• 제목/요약/키워드: 2/2 twill fabric

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효소정련 견직물의 태에 관한 연구 - 비누-소다정련견직물태와의 비교 - (A Study on the Handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Enzyme - Comparison with the Handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Soap-soda -)

  • 이용우;김중태
    • 한국잠사곤충학회지
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    • 제28권2호
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    • pp.52-60
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    • 1986
  • 견직물에 효소에 의한 정련처리를 비누-소다정련과 함께 실시한 후 이들 정련견포에 대하여 KES-F System을 적용하여 역학적 특성 즉 인장, 굽힘, 전단, 압축 및 표면특성을 측정하고 태값을 산출하여 효소정련과 비누-소다정련견포의 태값을 비교한 결과 1. 능하부다이 견직물의 경우 효소정련을 하면 포의 Stiffness가 비누-소다정련을 한 것에 비하여 감소되었고 Smoothness와 Soft feeling은 증가하였다. 2. 크\ulcorner데신 견직물의 경우 효소정련을 하면 비누-소다 정련에 비하여 Stiffness와 Anti-Drape Stiffness는 감소되었으며 Fullness와 종합 태값인 Flexibility with soft feeling은 향상되었다.

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김확 부인 동래정씨(東萊鄭氏) 묘 출토직물 연구 (The Characteristics of the Fabrics Excavated from the Tomb of Dongrae Jung, Kimhwak's Wife)

  • 조효숙;이은진
    • 복식
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    • 제59권8호
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    • pp.132-151
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    • 2009
  • All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

특수직물의 봉제에 관한 연구 (Study on the Sewability of Special Fabrics)

  • 장지혜
    • 대한가정학회지
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    • 제11권1호
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    • pp.26-43
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    • 1973
  • This study was carried out on the Sewbility of Urethane Foam usually used as coldproof lining. The Sewability was estimated with the Puckering Grade and Seam Efficiency according to the thicknes of urethane foam, fineness and material of sewing thread, and the sort of covering fabric. The result shows the following ; 1. The thick foam proportinally shows the low Puckering Grade. 2. Effect on the sewability is small in fineness of sewing thread but large in material. Especially silk thread shows the greatest sewability in foam sewing. When the material of covering fabric is same as that of sewing thread (for example ; p/c fabric and p/c thread) the sewability is excellent in special. 3. Taffeta in covering foam is not suitable to foam sewing, satin and twill show superior sewability without reagrd to the thickness of foam. 4. In case of sewing foam covered with tricot, optimum thickness of foam and fineness of sewing thread through pretest must determine. 5. The thicker foam is the better seam efficiency tends, and Seam Efficiency largely effects to the strength of the sewing thread itself. 6. The seam Efficiency can heighten with the strength of sewing thread in proportion to that of covering fabric.

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효소정련 견직물의 태에 관한 연구(II) - 조련정도가 효소정련견직물의 태에 미치는 영향 - (A Study on the Handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Enzyme - Effect of the Predegumming Degrees on the handle of the Silk Fabric Degummed with Protease -)

  • 이용우;김중태
    • 한국잠사곤충학회지
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    • 제29권2호
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    • pp.67-72
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    • 1987
  • 견직물의 효소정련에 있어서 조련정도가 효소정련한 견직물의 특성에 미치는 영향을 구명하기 위하여 조련정도가 다른 효소정련견포에 대하여 KES-F System을 적용하여 역학적 특성 즉 인장, 굽힘, 약단, 압축 및 표면특성을 측정하고 태값을 산출하여 비교한 결과는 아래와 같다. 1. 능하부다이 견직물의 경우 조련연감율이 증가와 함께 포의 stiffness는 감소되고 smoothness는 향상되었으나 종합 태값인 soft feeling은 조련 20%에서 가장 우수하였다. 2. 크\ulcorner데신 견직물의 경우 anti-drape stiffness는 조련정도가 커지는데 따라서 증가되었으나 기타 특성과 종합 태값인 Flexibility with soft feeling은 조련정도와 상관이 인정되지 않았다.

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슬랙스용 소재에 대한 대학생의 선호도 조사연구 (A Research on the Preference to Textiles for Slacks of College Students)

  • 김희숙;나미희
    • 한국생활과학회지
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    • 제11권4호
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    • pp.381-389
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    • 2002
  • This research was designed to investigate the preference to textiles for slacks of college students. 105 subjects majored in fashion design were surveyed. Subjects selected three favorite materials among 120 samples presented in swatch book and weighted frequency and percentage were added by order. The extent of preference was compared by season and sex. The results of this study were as follows: 1. College students preferred twill cotton Drill foremost as a textile for spring and fall season. 2. Plain linen Crash was the most preferred material for summer. 3. Cotton Corduroy was the most preferred textile for winter. 4. In thickness and weight, textiles for winter were thicker and heavier than those of other seasons. 5. In fiber content, natural fiber such as wool were preferred for all seasons. 6. In weave of textiles, twill weave fabric was preferred for spring fall and winter season, and plain weave for summer. 7. College students preferred plain texture materials foremost and navy blue and black color was preferred for textiles for slacks. 8. Girl students preferred cotton fabrics and boys preferred wool fabric for slacks. Also, girls generally preferred thinner fabrics than those of boys.

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하이브리드 능직 탄소-아라미드 섬유 복합재의 모드 I 파괴인성에 대한 실험적 연구 (Experimental Investigations of Mode I Fracture Toughness of a Hybrid Twill Woven Carbon and Aramid Fabric Composite)

  • 권우덕;권오헌
    • 한국안전학회지
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    • 제34권6호
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    • pp.1-6
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    • 2019
  • Carbon fiber has excellent specific strength, corrosion resistance and heat resistance. And p-Aramid fiber has high toughness and heat resistance and high elasticity, and is used in various fields such as industrial protective materials, bulletproof helmets and vests, as well as industrial fields. However, carbon fiber is relatively expensive, and is susceptible to brittle fracture behavior due to its low fracture strain. On the other hand, the aramid fiber tends to decrease in elastic modulus and strength when applied to the epoxy matrix, but it is inexpensive and has higher elongation and fracture toughness than carbon fiber. Thus the twill hybrid carbonaramid fiber reinforced composite laminate composite was investigated for a delamination fracture toughness under Mode I loading by 2 kinds of MBT and MCC deduction. The specimen was fabricated with 20 hybrid fabric plies. The initial crack was made by inserting the teflon tape in the center plane with a0/W=0.5 length. The results show that SERR(Strain Energy Release Rate) as the critical and stable delamination fracture toughness were 0.09 kJ/㎡, 0.386 kJ/㎡ by MBT deduction, and 0.192 kJ/㎡, 0.67 kJ/㎡ by MCC deduction, respectively.

의원군묘 출토직물에 관한 연구 (Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics form ewongun's Tomb)

  • 조효숙;안지원
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제26권10호
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    • pp.1390-1400
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

阿羅伽耶 大伽耶 古墳群의 銹着織物 -도항리 . 지산동 고분군을 중심으로 - (A Study on Imprinted Fabrics on Remains of Ara-Kaya & Dae-Kaya - Focused on the Old Tombs of Dohang-ri and Jeesan-dong -)

  • 박윤미;정복남
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제9권5호
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    • pp.759-769
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    • 2001
  • The principal purpose of this study is focused on the fabrics used in Kaya period by investigating the imprinted fabrics on the remains of the old tomb of Dohang-ri and Jeesan-dong which were built around the late 4th century to the late 6th century. Most of the remains are plain weaved, however there is one remain that 4-end complex gauze with patterned, and the other is weaved with geometrical pattern which were plain weave with 2 · 1 twill and 3 · 1 twill. The imprinted fabrics that had twists had S twists only. Of all the fabrics that were examined, the most loose one had the density of 8 × 6/cm, the most fine fabric had the weft density of 91.8 strands/cm and the warp density cannot be counted. It is No. 416 of Doharg-ri tomb that has the highest ratio of density as 3.15. All the fabrics observed by SEM and Polarizing Microscope are hemp.

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제천출토 청송심씨(1753~1810) 출토유물 (A Study on the Excavated Clothes of Lady Shim Cheongsong in Jecheon)

  • 장인우;박봉순
    • 복식
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    • 제64권2호
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    • pp.150-162
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    • 2014
  • This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

장기 정씨(1565~1614)묘 출토 직물의 특성 (Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s Tomb)

  • 조효숙
    • 복식
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    • 제51권4호
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    • pp.81-95
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

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